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#1. RE: [E36M3] Removing Fan and Fan Clutch (really long) - from Birkhead, Rob
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Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 14:38:30 -0800 From: "Birkhead, Rob" <rbirkhead@bb.directv.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Removing Fan and Fan Clutch (really long) I did this mod about 3 months ago with great results on a street car. I was uncomfortable with the cooling capacity though so I added a 16" Spal electric fan. It works great and helps give me that peace of mind. You can read my write-up at http://home.earthlink.net/~rbirkz/E36M3_Electric_Fan_Install.htm If you have any questions, let me know. Rob -----Original Message----- From: peter@guagenti.com [mailto:peter@guagenti.com] Sent: Friday, March 15, 2002 2:29 PM To: E36M3 Subject: Re: [E36M3] Removing Fan and Fan Clutch (really long) Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 14:17:33 US/Pacific From: peter@guagenti.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Removing Fan and Fan Clutch (really long) > Here's the info I've gathered for removing the fan. This is a great write-up. Thanks for sharing. I agree with someone else's post that I don't know how comfortable I'd be with this, despite the excellent horsepower improvements. Has anyone on the list had this mod on their street-driven car? Feedback? Is an electric pull-fan necessary and, if so, are there any good sources for the parts. -peterg (always searching for more power) ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- --------------- This message was sent using HiSpeed Technologies Webmail. http://www.hispeed.com ************************************************************* List Commands UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). To issue a command/request to the server: Send a message with the command you wish executed as the subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. *************************************************************
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#2. May European Car - from Dorffer, Rich
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Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 18:02:36 -0500 From: "Dorffer, Rich" <RDORFFER@CleIndians.com> Subject: May European Car Steve says > > Has anyone else got the May edition of European car? Look at page > 12-13. It's my car in the BFG KD ad. They needed a red or yellow M3. I > told them they could use mine. They did. Sweet. I think I am going to request that poster to add to my other BFG poster (silver M3). Let me know when they need a black one. I will even allow them to remove my worn out MXX3s and shod it with some BFGs. Best regards, Rich 95 M3 - Cosmos not featured in any ads or magazines yet :-(
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#3. Re: [E36M3] Re: Insurance hike -yikes! - from Cheng, Margaret
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Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 14:54:49 -0800 From: "Cheng, Margaret" <Margaret.Cheng@kp.org> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Insurance hike -yikes! So tell us which insurance (not USAA) covers race cars!!!' Margaret "D Snyder" <m3ltw@msn.com> on 03/14/2002 08:48:39 AM Please respond to "D Snyder" <m3ltw@msn.com> To: E36M3 <e36m3@bmw-m.net> cc: Subject: [E36M3] Re: Insurance hike -yikes! Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 08:44:18 -0800 From: "D Snyder" <m3ltw@msn.com> Subject: Re: Insurance hike -yikes! > Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 18:37:56 -0600 > From: donna seeley <dlseeley@earthlink.net> > Subject: Insurance hike -yikes! > > I just got the invoice for my 95 M3. It jumped $300/yr to almost $2k. > All 3 cars and the house are through Farmer's because I've always gotten > good service, but this seems out of line. > > It might be time to move my policies - what are other NorCal folks > paying for 120D Comp & 500D Collision? No at-fault accidents since I > was 18, no claims except a few windshields, no tickets that weren't > covered by traffic school. Almost all possible goodies apply: ABS, > airbags, mult. car, car+house, good driver, old+experienced <g>. > > Donna We pay under $2k in SJ for 2001 X5, 2001 M3 and old Civic, all with USAA. FYI, insurance on the race car is only $1k a year (not USAA) for stated value coverage, and while including collision/liability coverage, the policy has NO racing exclusions!!! So cool, it makes me wet my pants... Dan ************************************************************* List Commands UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). To issue a command/request to the server: Send a message with the command you wish executed as the subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. *************************************************************
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#4. Re: [E36M3] re: Removing Fan and Fan Clutch (really long) - from andy radin
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Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 15:25:47 -0800 From: "andy radin" <fourfa@mindspring.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] re: Removing Fan and Fan Clutch (really long) "Again, if you don't feel comfortable with it, don't do it." agreed, just what I plan to do. Just thought there were some other issues for discussion here. "I don't think lowering the operating temp from 190d F to 176d F will make a difference. If anything, it would prolong engine life and some extra power. Too much heat in any engine is bad. " Wear rates increase with lower temps, although not enough to panic over until you get below 170ish (like the 72C racing thermostats AA sells...). I'll dig up more info if you don't buy it. Extra power - agreed, so long as the car doesn't hang in cold-start enrichment (anyone know the transition temp?). another issue - if your oil doesn't reach 212F often enough, it will build up acids and eat away at the bearings. lowering coolant temps too far can affect that (haven't yet heard from anyone with an oil temp gauge and 80C thermostat). "Is an electric pull-fan necessary and, if so, are there any good sources for the parts?" Necessary? I'll post more info when I compare coolant temps with and without. As for parts sources, the Spal 16" mid-thickness fan (highest CFM Spal I see with plenty of clearance - you might be able to fit the larger ones with mods to the fan pulley, fan motor, or radiator mounting) is $90 at http://www.srbymichael.com/ that's the cheapest I found. There are cheaper fans than Spal, but I've played with this one and it's high quality, smooth, quiet, with lots of airflow.
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#5. BFG silver M3 with silver moldings. (Jay M) - from TFRM3@aol.com
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Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 19:24:39 EST From: TFRM3@aol.com Subject: BFG silver M3 with silver moldings. (Jay M) According to the owner of the silver car, the moldings were painted silver in Photoshop. I love the way that car looked. I finally found a 1/64 scale e36 M3! or at least a 330. It is a Maisto, which means it a somewhat dubious replica, it is a blue 2 door. If you look at the headlights and tailights, it is an e46 with an e36 greenhouse. Looks much more like an e36 because of the front corner lamps. This brings my 1/64 "collection of cars I have owned" to a temporary close.
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#6. RE: [E36M3] BFG silver M3 with silver moldings. and M3GTR - from Mel Silva
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Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 21:18:39 -0600 From: "Mel Silva" <melsilva@mindspring.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] BFG silver M3 with silver moldings. and M3GTR For all you collector types out there, Scalextric USA announced last month that they would be releasing at least two versions of the 2000 ALMS PTG M3GTR in 1/32 scale slot cars. I was going to keep quiet until I actually saw one, but I couldn't resist (I am terrible about keeping good secrets). Anyone interested in further updates can email me offline and I will keep you posted. <melsilva@mindspring.com> or <mel_silva@houstonscaleautoracing.com> -Mel -----Original Message----- From: TFRM3@aol.com [mailto:TFRM3@aol.com] Sent: Friday, March 15, 2002 6:29 PM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] BFG silver M3 with silver moldings. (Jay M) Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 19:24:39 EST From: TFRM3@aol.com Subject: BFG silver M3 with silver moldings. (Jay M) According to the owner of the silver car, the moldings were painted silver in Photoshop. I love the way that car looked. I finally found a 1/64 scale e36 M3! or at least a 330. It is a Maisto, which means it a somewhat dubious replica, it is a blue 2 door. If you look at the headlights and tailights, it is an e46 with an e36 greenhouse. Looks much more like an e36 because of the front corner lamps. This brings my 1/64 "collection of cars I have owned" to a temporary close. ************************************************************* List Commands UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). To issue a command/request to the server: Send a message with the command you wish executed as the subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. *************************************************************
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#7. RE: [E36M3] Discount Tire Tech Session (Kuhmo Rep Going To Be There!) - from Tom Tice
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Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 22:47:25 -0500 From: "Tom Tice" <tetice@triad.rr.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Discount Tire Tech Session (Kuhmo Rep Going To Be There!) Hi Mark, I'd love to attend your event but since I'm on the east coast the drive might be a bit too much. However, since you have access to a Kuhmo rep, I've got a question that I'd really like to get an official position on from Kuhmo if you wouldn't mind asking for me. Here goes: My Kuhmo track tires (Ectsa V700s and previously Victoracers) wear 30-50% faster on the front than on the rear. This is purely due to wear of the outside shoulder (even with >3 degrees neg. camber in front). Do the Esctsa V700s have a symetrical sidewall such that I could reverse them on the rim to get more miles out of them. When I'm down to the cords on the outside there is nearly full tread on the inside of the tire. BTW, I'm not worried with anything other than dry performance so the directional tread is of no concern to me. I've heard plenty of opinions on this but I'd really like a technically accurate statement from Kuhmo. Also, to fend off other obvious questions on this, yes I can rotate front to rear but even then I'm leaving a lot of track miles on the inside of the tires. TIA, Tom Tice '98 M3/4 '99 540/6 > -----Original Message----- > From: Mark Radelow [mailto:radelow@hotmail.com] > Sent: Thursday, March 14, 2002 12:09 PM > To: E36M3 > Subject: [E36M3] Discount Tire Tech Session (Kuhmo Rep Going To Be > There!) > > > Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 16:59:52 +0000 > From: "Mark Radelow" <radelow@hotmail.com> > Subject: Discount Tire Tech Session (Kuhmo Rep Going To Be There!) > > Hey everyone, I have an event coming up next week that you are > all welcome > to attend. This event is being hosted by the San Diego Chapter of the > BMWCCA as well as the San Diego Region PCA... > > Tech session at Discount Tires in San Diego on March 20th (next week). > There will be a Kuhmo rep discussing their tires and the store will be > demonstrating their heatcycling machine as well as offering discounts on > tires. > > PLEASE RSVP to me if you are coming. The manager of the store is > providing > food so we want to give him an accurate total. > > Mark > > ps. ALSO DON'T FORGET OUR KARTING EVENT JUNE 1! Spots are filling fast! >
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#8. Need help due to possible damage to ECU circuit board - from Geof McLaughlin
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Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 22:40:25 -0500 From: Geof McLaughlin <gfmiiilist@usa.net> Subject: Need help due to possible damage to ECU circuit board I admit it...I pulled a definite bonehead move last night. When replacing the chip on my ECU circuit board, a slip of the screwdriver damaged one of the tracings. I don't think that it was enough to actually cut through the tracing, but it did damage the protective green film by slicing across the tracing. I haven't had a chance to replace the ECU and make sure that the car runs properly, but I am pretty sure it will. In any case, I'm wondering if I need to repair the green plastic film covering the tracing that I scratched and what I should use to do so. Also, in case I did in fact damage the tracing, I have heard that you can buy thin copper traces in the appropriate diameter to repair. Does anyone have any experience with this? Thanks. Geof
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#9. Low Beam failure - from Steve Selmants
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Date: Sat, 16 Mar 2002 10:45:50 -0500 From: "Steve Selmants" <selmants@adelphia.net> Subject: Low Beam failure Hi Folks - new to the list, so forgive me if this question has been covered, but I could not find any trace of it using the search. - I've got a problem with a set of Euro-Ellipsoids I recently installed in my 95. I get a "low-Beam Failure" message across my computer when I first start the car and again when I shut it off. I purchased these thru BMP - They are HELLA's - I have standard 55 watt Hella H1's in both low and high positions. everything works fine - low and high beams, and the parking lights - both the USA turn signals and the European parking lights wired together. All splices are soldered and heat shrinked. I was very careful with the wiring, made sure to match the pin call out. I don't think a wire is crossed or one of the lights would not work correctly. The 2 assembly grounds are connected to the factory single ground on each side. I have tried the following: Disconnected the battery to clear this code overnight - still persists. Replaced all the bulbs with a different brand and also changed their positions - still persists. ( I disconnected the battery with each attempt) No fuses were/ are blown. BMP claims they have never had this problem before and did finally mail me a set of broken assemblies with bulbs they claimed to have tried. I hooked these up ( they worked also ) and still have the same message. I should mention BMP's instructions did not match what I received - Instead of crimping or soldering the pins directly to the wires I cut, they came already crimped to 12" long wires of a much thicker gauge- I spliced these into the factory wires. I'm now thinking this jump in gauge may be confusing the computer. A BMW expert claims this is not a code that can be cleared and is the result of a resistance problem ( thus the bulb changing attempt ) Has anyone had this problem ? Any thoughts in finally curing it ? Thanks in advance - Steve Selmants
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#10. Re: [E36M3] Need help due to possible damage to ECU circuit board - from Andrew E. Kalman
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Date: Sun, 17 Mar 2002 08:57:18 -0800 From: "Andrew E. Kalman" <aek@pumpkininc.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Need help due to possible damage to ECU circuit board Re: >When replacing the chip on my ECU circuit board, a slip of the >screwdriver damaged one of the tracings. I don't think that it was >enough to actually cut through the tracing, but it did damage the >protective green film by slicing across the tracing. I haven't had >a chance to replace the ECU and make sure that the car runs >properly, but I am pretty sure it will. I wouldn't sweat it -- what happened is you scratched through the soldermask, and revealed the bare copper underneath. It takes more than a casual effort to cut PCB traces, so I doubt you've done any serious damage. If you look carefully at your board, you'll see that there are many places (where the soldermask was _not_ applied). It's there to prevent solder from travelling all over the board -- solder should adhere only to the holes and pads where components are attached, o/wise it ends up possibly short-circuiting adjacent traces, etc. -- ______________________________________ Andrew E. Kalman, Ph.D. aek@pumpkininc.com