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#1. Re: [E36M3] Lambda Control Fault - from NickG
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Date: Sun, 17 Mar 2002 09:51:15 -0800 From: "NickG" <nick@tech-nick.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Lambda Control Fault Check to see if the heater circuit for the O2 sensor is operating. If the heater doesn't work, then the sensor won't warm up and start switching. Nick > I'm getting a Lambda Control fault at idle. Upon throttle application, the > CE light goes out, only to re-appear after about 10 seconds at idle. Note > that his is NOT the same fault as an 02 sensor fault. I recently replaced > the 02 sensor (was getting an 02 sensor fault prior to replacement), as well > as the valve cover gasket. > > Has anyone got this fault in the past, and if so, what was the fix? I > haven't found any "obvious" vacuum leaks. Any help appreciated. > > Roger W. Graves > RogRacer@aol.com > '95 M3 ---------------------------------------------------- Sign Up for NetZero Platinum Today Only $9.95 per month! http://my.netzero.net/s/signup?r=platinum&refcd=PT97
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#2. SA Konis adjustments - from Paul Elliott
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Date: Sun, 17 Mar 2002 13:50:58 -0500 From: "Paul Elliott" <elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net> Subject: SA Konis adjustments To adjust the rear konis' rebound settings, you have to compress the shock and then turn the body, right? Now, can this be done while the shock is on the car? ie, if you want to avoid accessing the rsm area, can you access it from the outside by removing the wheel, and unbolting the bottom of the shock...Then, maybe using another jack, or just brute force, pushing UP on the shock body til its compressed enough to adjust, and then turn it the way you want? Paul Elliott --------------------------------------------------------- '99 White M3; < 40K miles; Dinan stage II SC kit with 6" RMS crank pulley: 11 psi; AA Water Injection; Rotex pads;X-Brace; Dinan Koni Suspension; Stygar SS and Clutch Stop; Sound by Polk, Excelon, JLAudio
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#3. First Gear again - from Robert Exconde
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Date: Sun, 17 Mar 2002 13:23:34 -0600 From: "Robert Exconde" <99e36m3@exconde.com> Subject: First Gear again I've brought this up before but it seems more serious now. Driving around Schumburg I have had no problems with shifting, but as soon as I take it in to the city, I can no longer get into 1st and 2nd gear. I've been told not to force the shifter into a gear but I have no other choice when you are inthe middle of the intersection @ Fullterton and people are honking at me, or when you find yourself in the ghetto, its qquite concerning. I could only get it into 3rd gear at the time so I had to start in 3rd. I have a BigBoy CS but I doubt that is the problem. I had Ed and Jolway drive my car in the afternoon, doing some <*ahem*> ... .testing. and gears were fine. Went into the city it was plain imposible to shift. Here is what I'm finding... In schaumburg it drives fine , when I get to the city, the chutch seems like it has a real hard time disengaging. I tried putting it into first, clutch in and release the brake, doesnt move. I try five minuts later it creeps in the same situation. When I'm shifting at the stoplight and cant get it into gear, I hear this big banging sound on the transmisssion when trying to shift. (Probably me banging the gears) I'm going to have to change the position of the clutch stop, but I'm also curious to find out if anyone else has this change in engagement. During the day it was fine, when I hit the city it got tight, then impossible, at 130 it was a bit tight and by 5 it was fine, even in the city. I"m going to have to lower the clutch stop until I can figure this out, but its rather annoying to have a variable clutch engagment points. Or maybe I need a dual mode Clutch stop, one for city and one for suburbs. *** Can someone explain the change in engagement points? What should I ask at the dealership? What do I tell them? I'm coming up on my inspection next week and I want to be able to tell them something. I've read the TSB and I did the test of ,meet resistance, shut off ignition, and the shifter does shift to first when the M is turned off. I know it only happens in the city so it wont happen when I go to the dealer. I refuse to accept Mr. Tang's explaination that this car is not meant to be taken into the city. Never fails when I'm in the city, I guess I may have to resort to having my friends drive me around agian. Second
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#4. Shark Attack and my rear - from Robert Exconde
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Date: Sun, 17 Mar 2002 13:38:10 -0600 From: "Robert Exconde" <99e36m3@exconde.com> Subject: Shark Attack and my rear I had my Shark injector in the car for about tree weeks now, and I think that it did help the car get up to triple digit speeds faster but it added a LOT more torque?! Does the shark do anything witht he ASC? it seems that the M3 now ripps out of the stoplights. I was making a left hand turn through at an intersection that a lady tried to run but ended up stopping way past her line. I was pi**ed off and I hit the gas. To my avail the rear end pulled out. I caught it in time and everthing was fine and in five seconds I was two miles down the road. My point is... the ASC doesn seem to catch the wheel spin and slippage like it used to, the wheels are spinning, the tail is breaking out. When I tossed the summer tires back on for the fourth time this winter I forgot that I had the injector. I started driving around and it seemed that my tires were slippin all over the place on corners. Not that this is a complaint but is this anyone elses experience with the injector? rye99m3
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#5. Re: Clear tail lense problem - help - from Sean Ganess
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Date: Sun, 17 Mar 2002 14:52:49 -0500 From: "Sean Ganess" <Sean.Ganess@lostcluster.net> Subject: Re: Clear tail lense problem - help Probably has nothing to do with your new tailights. The brake light switch attached to your brake pedal is probably on it's way out. Mine started reporting a false error last summer and I had it replaced. >From: Shelhart2@aol.com >I installed some clear tail lenses on my 98 from Bekkars. Every once in a while I get the computer telling me "brake light >failure". They are working fine but something is telling the computer there is a problem. Grounds look fine, put in OEM BMW >bulbs, etc. What gives? TIA.
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#6. Re: [E36M3] Shark Attack and my rear - from Zack Steinkamp
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Date: Sun, 17 Mar 2002 12:33:05 -0800 (PST) From: Zack Steinkamp <edsarkiss@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Shark Attack and my rear hi robert ... (warning: talking out of my rear here) my guess is that ASC is tuned for the "stock" output of the motor. once you shark the car, which adds > 20 ft. lbs. of torque, the balance that BMW engineered into the system is upset. AFAIK, sharking doesn't modify anything with the ASC. i think that the only adjustment to make is in your right-foot when you don't want the rear getting happy around town ;-). and be nice to those other drivers .... they're not lucky enough to be as excited about driving, nor are their cars as capable. -zs (sharked 98 with a happy rear) --- Robert Exconde <99e36m3@exconde.com> wrote: > Date: Sun, 17 Mar 2002 13:38:10 -0600 > From: "Robert Exconde" <99e36m3@exconde.com> > Subject: Shark Attack and my rear > > I had my Shark injector in the car for about tree > weeks now, and I think > that it did help the car get up to triple digit > speeds faster but it added a > LOT more torque?! > > Does the shark do anything witht he ASC? it seems > that the M3 now ripps out > of the stoplights. I was making a left hand turn > through at an intersection > that a lady tried to run but ended up stopping way > past her line. I was > pi**ed off and I hit the gas. To my avail the rear > end pulled out. I caught > it in time and everthing was fine and in five > seconds I was two miles down > the road. > > My point is... the ASC doesn seem to catch the wheel > spin and slippage like > it used to, the wheels are spinning, the tail is > breaking out. When I tossed > the summer tires back on for the fourth time this > winter I forgot that I had > the injector. I started driving around and it seemed > that my tires were > slippin all over the place on corners. Not that this > is a complaint but is > this anyone elses experience with the injector? > > rye99m3 > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you > from the mailing list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the > list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the > requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as > the > subject of the message to the email address > e36m3@bmw-m.net. > ************************************************************* > > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Sports - live college hoops coverage http://sports.yahoo.com/
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#7. Laser safety - from John Pease
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Date: Sun, 17 Mar 2002 12:35:17 -0800 (PST) From: John Pease <john_pease123@yahoo.com> Subject: Laser safety Someone wrote on the topic of laser power: >It's the peak output >that's factored into the SNR and the average that >determines the safety of it. This is not correct. The peak output even with 0.000001% duty cycle and 100 ps pulse width can seriously damage your eyes and other body parts. The average power will onlly tell you how much heating capability you have. The peak power can cause surface damage to skin cells that depends on pulse width. The eye has opticaly transmissive cells in the lens followed by sensetive photo-recepeters. Any lens and photo receptive cells will be damaged by short optical pulses. DO NO LOOK INTO OR EXPOSE BODY PARTS TO ANY PULSED LASED BEAM UNLESS YOU ARE FAR AWAY AND KNOW THE POWER LEVELS OF THAT BEAM. I apologize if I offended anybody. I'll take the heat for it if I can convince just one person that they should not underestimate the damage that can be caused by low duty cycle pulsed lasers. John Pease electrical engineer who works with lasers every day. __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Sports - live college hoops coverage http://sports.yahoo.com/
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#8. Re: [E36M3] SA Konis adjustments - from LoweSeaton@aol.com
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Date: Sun, 17 Mar 2002 15:47:15 EST From: LoweSeaton@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] SA Konis adjustments Paul asks: To adjust the rear konis' rebound settings, you have to compress the shock and then turn the body, right? Now, can this be done while the shock is on the car? ie, if you want to avoid accessing the rsm area, can you access it from the outside by removing the wheel, and unbolting the bottom of the shock...Then, maybe using another jack, or just brute force, pushing UP on the shock body til its compressed enough to adjust, and then turn it the way you want ? --------------------------------------- Should we all start laughing at Paul now?? Sorry Paul, I couldn't resist. <vbg> To answer your question, "Heck no!!!" You will have to remove the rear shock mounts. Not only do you have to compress the shock, you also have to use an allen wrench on the top to turn the adjuster. Any way you slice it, you have to access the top of the shock. I believe you have the E46M3 rear shock mounts? The best solution is the Ground Control RSM's. They can be easily removed from the wheel well. If I had Koni SA shocks, I would definitely use the GC RSM. I believe Ron Stygar fabricates a Z3 reinforcement ring that you can use to convert E46M3 RSM's to the Ground Control wheel well type if you really want to keep the E46M3 mounts. Lowell Seaton '95 M3 - Bilstein shocks Dallas, Texas
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#9. WOOOOO HOOOOO! - from Mark Radelow
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Date: Sun, 17 Mar 2002 21:03:21 +0000 From: "Mark Radelow" <radelow@hotmail.com> Subject: WOOOOO HOOOOO! OH YEAH BABY!!!! Williams ONE TWO! http://www.formula1.com/news/home.html Mark Radelow _________________________________________________________________ Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com
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#10. Re: replacing belts - from Ron Buchalski
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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 00:52:02 +0000 From: "Ron Buchalski" <rbuchals@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: replacing belts Zack, I think you got screwed on the price for the belts - by almost 100%. I just replaced the main drive belt, and it cost me $22. The only tool required is an 8mm hex wrench. Anyhow, it's very easy to remove and replace the belts. Each belt is held in place by a tensioner wheel. To remove tension, insert the 8mm hex bit into the hub of the tensioner (I use a 8mm hex bit with a 3/8 drive ratchet), and rotate the ratchet to remove all tension from the belt. Then, simply remove the belt from the remaining pulleys. The AC belt is in front of the main drive belt (power steering, alternator, water pump), so it's removed first and, logically, installed last. One thing to note: either find a picture, or draw a sketch, to show how each belt is routed PRIOR to removing them. The routing of the main belt can be confusing if you don't do this. The first time I replaced the main belt I neglected to do this, and couldn't figure out the exact routing. (I was replacing the belts on my E34 525iT, with the M50 engine). Luckily, the M3 was sitting right next to it, and the belts are identical. For the main belt, I found it easier to route the belt properly through all of the top paths (alternator, water pump, tensioner), then routed it over the crankshaft pulley, and saved the power steering pulley for last, as I fully retracted the tensioner. The E34 had enough space between the engine and fan shroud to accomplish this. I can't say that the M3 will be as easy, since the spacing seems to be a little tighter, and the lower air shroud (that falls off at 130mph) may obstruct access to the tensioner from the bottom. Good luck, -rb >Date: Sat, 16 Mar 2002 22:21:04 -0800 (PST) >From: Zack Steinkamp <edsarkiss@yahoo.com> >Subject: replacing belts > >hi list > >i'll be replacing my squeaky belts (main "polyribbed" >and a/c) tomorrow and was wondering if anyone had any >BTDT advice. i got the belts from my local stealer >today for <gasp> $86 for both. i guess that's what i >get for not planning ahead. > >i have the bentley book, but none of the pictures look >like my engine. i have an 8mm allen socket >(recommended as "the tool" in the book), but i just >read something online that said you need a 10mm allen >+ regular socket. > >so can any of you who have done this clear it up for >me? clearance up front is pretty tight, which i fear >may lead to a pretty frustrating time... > >thanks in advance for any wisdom... >zs _________________________________________________________________ Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com