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#1. Re: WOOOOO HOOOOO! - from Carguymb@aol.com
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Date: Sun, 17 Mar 2002 21:12:21 EST From: Carguymb@aol.com Subject: Re: WOOOOO HOOOOO! Thanks, Mark. Now I guess I don't have to watch my tape tonight to catch the result.... Martin Bullen '95 M3 '97 Z3 2.8 In a message dated 3/17/02 8:19:06 PM, e36m3@bmw-m.net writes: >Date: Sun, 17 Mar 2002 21:03:21 +0000 >From: "Mark Radelow" <radelow@hotmail.com> >Subject: WOOOOO HOOOOO! > >OH YEAH BABY!!!! Williams ONE TWO! > >http://www.formula1.com/news/home.html > > >Mark Radelow
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#2. FS: assorted stuff - from Guillermo Molina
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Date: Sun, 17 Mar 2002 21:22:46 -0500 From: "Guillermo Molina" <drwillb@msn.com> Subject: FS: assorted stuff Gotta get some stuff out of the garage. Anyone interested contact me directly. 4 MXX3 tires, 235/40-17: 1/3 tread left, just right for autox season. $150 Momo Acropolis seat: includes slider, 2 small nicks in cover but not visible when mounted. Have box and can ship. $425 AA strut bars: front and rear, very good condition, small scratch on rear bar. $325 for both 1995 Ten double spoke wheels: 2 wheels, 1 has had a weld repair and the outside lip is not straight, other wheel has curb rash and very slight bend in lip. I got robbed on ebay by a Ruben Flores from Texas (his email reads rubencorrado), do not deal with this guy, you wil lose. Anyway, make an offer on these, I just want them out of my sight. 1 AVS intermediate 225/50-15: used on my e30 track car, at least 1/2 tread left, the tire found a nail and I had it fixed but I will not track it again. $25 Pictures of all items can be found at http://photos.yahoo.com/drwillb look under "sale items" folder. Not listed at Yahoo: passenger side euro ellipsoid low beam for e30. $75 Bill Molina 88 M3 95 M3 _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp.
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#3. Re: First Gear again - from Ron Buchalski
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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 04:20:06 +0000 From: "Ron Buchalski" <rbuchals@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: First Gear again Robert, The first thing to do is to remove the clutch stop to eliminate it as a source of your problem. Once that's done, you need to figure out what conditions cause the problem. I don't know Schaumburg from Pittsburgh, so I don't know what you're trying to say about driving in Schaumburg versus downtown Chicago. I DO know that driving in any major city will result in alot more clutching and shifting than driving in the suburbs, or out in the country. From what you describe, it sounds like the release bearing is binding against the input shaft of the transmission, making it difficult to disengage the clutch. So, with engine power turning the input shaft of the transmission, you can't put the car in gear. I had a similar problem on my E30 318i (three times over it's lifetime). The release bearing gets mis-aligned in the clutch fork, due to uneven wear of the flat sides of the bearing. The only solution is to replace the bearing. While you're in there, replace everything else that can be replaced (clutch, clutch fork, pilot bearing, pressure plate), re-surface the flywheel (or replace it with a lightweight flywheel), and check the rear main seal for oil leaks, and replace if it's leaking. All the parts are cheap ($150?, not including a lightweight flywheel). All the cost is in labor, since you need to drop the transmission. From your email address, I'm guessing that you have a '99 M3. Although it's relatively new, it doesn't mean that it can't suffer from these problems. Maybe the conditions in downtown Chicago (frequent shifting, multiple hard launches from stop, etc), cause the release bearing to get mis-aligned, resulting in the problem you experience. Maybe it realigns itself once you get away from the city, and drive sane again? Perhaps you've been abusing your clutch? How many times have you popped the clutch to smoke the tires from a dead stop? How many times have you street raced the car and power-shifted through the gears? If so, only you will be able to determine if it was worth the $800 that it's going to cost to replace the components listed above (add $600 for the flywheel). BMW engineers designed a great car, but they don't design in the extra strength to take that kind of abuse. Good luck, -rb >Date: Sun, 17 Mar 2002 13:23:34 -0600 >From: "Robert Exconde" <99e36m3@exconde.com> >Subject: First Gear again > >I've brought this up before but it seems more serious now. Driving around >Schumburg I have had no problems with shifting, but as soon as I take it in >to the city, I can no longer get into 1st and 2nd gear. I've been told not >to force the shifter into a gear but I have no other choice when you are >inthe middle of the intersection @ Fullterton and people are honking at me, >or when you find yourself in the ghetto, its qquite concerning. I could >only >get it into 3rd gear at the time so I had to start in 3rd. > >I have a BigBoy CS but I doubt that is the problem. I had Ed and Jolway >drive my car in the afternoon, doing some <*ahem*> ... .testing. and gears >were fine. Went into the city it was plain imposible to shift. Here is what >I'm finding... In schaumburg it drives fine , when I get to the city, the >chutch seems like it has a real hard time disengaging. I tried putting it >into first, clutch in and release the brake, doesnt move. I try five minuts >later it creeps in the same situation. When I'm shifting at the stoplight >and cant get it into gear, I hear this big banging sound on the >transmisssion when trying to shift. (Probably me banging the gears) I'm >going to have to change the position of the clutch stop, but I'm also >curious to find out if anyone else has this change in engagement. > >During the day it was fine, when I hit the city it got tight, then >impossible, at 130 it was a bit tight and by 5 it was fine, even in the >city. I"m going to have to lower the clutch stop until I can figure this >out, but its rather annoying to have a variable clutch engagment points. Or >maybe I need a dual mode Clutch stop, one for city and one for suburbs. > >*** >Can someone explain the change in engagement points? What should I ask at >the dealership? What do I tell them? I'm coming up on my inspection next >week and I want to be able to tell them something. > >I've read the TSB and I did the test of ,meet resistance, shut off >ignition, >and the shifter does shift to first when the M is turned off. I know it >only >happens in the city so it wont happen when I go to the dealer. > >I refuse to accept Mr. Tang's explaination that this car is not meant to be >taken into the city. Never fails when I'm in the city, I guess I may have >to resort to having my friends drive me around agian. > >Second _________________________________________________________________ Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com
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#4. Re: [E36M3] Re: replacing belts - from Robert Chay
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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 00:01:17 -0500 From: Robert Chay <rchay@mindspring.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: replacing belts The tensioner pulley bolt is covered by a plastic cover. You need to pop this out to get to the 8mm bolt. Just thought I'd throw this in in case someone starts looking for it and can't find it. -Bobby
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#5. New Suspension Questions - from Darling Christopher Maj AMC/CEXR
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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 07:20:34 -0600 From: "Darling Christopher Maj AMC/CEXR" <Christopher.Darling-02@scott.af.mil> Subject: New Suspension Questions I'm about to install a Streetline suspension in my 95 M3. Two questions, (not the first and won't be the last!): 1. I know I need an alignment afterwards, but do I need one BEFORE also? In order to compare data? 2. Anybody have a tech procedure written up somewhere for suspension installation? Thanks, Cod Major Chris Darling HQ AMC/CEXR DSN 779-0698, Comm (618) 229-0698
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#6. Re: [E36M3] New Suspension Questions - from The Abels
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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 07:38:16 -0600 From: "The Abels" <aAbel@austin.rr.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] New Suspension Questions I'm about to install a Streetline suspension in my 95 M3. Two questions, (not the first and won't be the last!): 1. I know I need an alignment afterwards, but do I need one BEFORE also? In order to compare data? 2. Anybody have a tech procedure written up somewhere for suspension installation? Thanks, Cod Major Chris Darling ``````````````````````````````````````` Scott King did a great writeup. http://www.bmw-m.net/TechProc/H&R%20COILOVER%20INSTALL%202.0.pdf I did not do a pre-install alignment, but I suppose it couldn't hurt to get your pre-install readings, in case you end up with some odd numbers post install. I know some shops won't charge for an alignment check. . . just be sure to tip the tech. Jeff
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#7. WOOOOO HOOOOO! - from Dorffer, Rich
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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 10:31:48 -0500 From: "Dorffer, Rich" <RDORFFER@CleIndians.com> Subject: WOOOOO HOOOOO! Alright then, I guess we are no longer waiting the mandatory two-three days (after Tuesday or something like that) before discussing the F1 results. Regards, Rich - Watched the race...both times it was aired.
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#8. Diagnosing a Leaking Coolant System - from morris.michael@adlittle.com
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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 10:35:39 -0500 From: morris.michael@adlittle.com Subject: Diagnosing a Leaking Coolant System Hello List, On Friday I swapped my radiator and hoses and after properly filling and bleeding the system the car has developed a nice leak. Here's what info I have to diagnose the source of the problem: -Engine temp does not have to be in the middle, car only has to be on for ~1 minute for the leak to develop. -Leak continues once car is off. -Car overheated last week due to the radiator neck failing. Temp never hit the red. (Right below it.) -I put the car on a lift this morning (landlord is a mechanic and lets me use his lift whenever) and the steady coolant drip seems to be coming from the behind the toothed pulley below the water pump pulley. (Crank angle sensor?) -water pump and thermostat replaced 4 months ago. I am thinking that the water pump weep hole is leaking. Any thoughts before I order and swap the pump? Any better way to check without taking the belts off besides visual inspection? Thanks. Regards, Mike Morris **** This is intended for the addressee only and may contain confidential business information. It may not be copied without our permission. If you are not the intended recipient, please contact the sender as soon as possible and delete the material from any computer.****
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#9. carbon/soot deposits around exhaust tips - from Dorffer, Rich
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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 10:35:04 -0500 From: "Dorffer, Rich" <RDORFFER@CleIndians.com> Subject: carbon/soot deposits around exhaust tips IMO, your car is probably running a little rich evidenced by the black puff of smoke on hard shifts and the deposits on the rear bumper. My car does the same thing (puff of black smoke, no deposits have ever been noted on the bumper) and I have the JC Intake, JC Chip and EURO HFM. I don't believe there is a significant difference between the stock software and JC's software with regard to running rich or lean as I believe JC programs the stoichiometric gas:air settings pretty similarly. There are differences amongst other suppliers of software though. I am not looking for a battle over this (there have been some battles on this subject on some other boards though). The only major issue I am aware of with running just a little rich is lower gas mileage and possibly higher wear of your catalytic converters and slightly less power. Although, it is definitely safer than running lean ;-) Anyone else care to clear this up with better knowledge than I, jump right in. Your oil consumption is well within BMW standards and not too bad in my opinion. You are right though, short commutes can be hard on engines. Regards, Rich
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#10. Insurance and Drivers Schools - from dholeman
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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 13:26:36 -0500 From: "dholeman" <dholeman@racepad.com> Subject: Insurance and Drivers Schools Hi, I recently moved from IL to MA and have come to learn that Driver's schools and other such events are specifically excluded from coverage. While still a Windy City BMW club member I had hoped to go back for their drivers school this May. Unfortunately, it appears that to drive in this event you have to have liability insurance. What do folks do about liability insurance if they are from MA and participate in one of the driver's schools in the region? I don't car about collision, I can handle that, but you've got to cover your butt when it comes to liablity. What do folks do here? Do they just hope that nothing happens? Do the waivers signed at the events protect participants from liabilities? Is there any source out there for specific insurance to cover this situation? Most providers provide stoage and transport insurance but won't provide liability insurance at the track. Any help or comments would be appreciated. Please feel free to email me directly unless you think your answer will help others. David Holeman