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#1. Re: [E36M3] carbon/soot deposits around exhaust tips - from The Abels
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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 12:48:06 -0600 From: "The Abels" <aAbel@austin.rr.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] carbon/soot deposits around exhaust tips IMO, your car is probably running a little rich evidenced by the black puff of smoke on hard shifts and the deposits on the rear bumper. My car does the same thing (puff of black smoke, no deposits have ever been noted on the bumper) and I have the JC Intake, JC Chip and EURO HFM. I don't believe there is a significant difference between the stock software and JC's software with regard to running rich or lean as I believe JC programs the stoichiometric gas:air settings pretty similarly. <snip> Rich -------------------------------------------- Rich, Yeah, that's what I thought. Interesting though that I'd get rich running conditions with stock software. If anything, I would have expected a tendency toward lean b/c of the intake, exhaust, and ASC delete (slightly better breathing). On horsepower thing, my understanding is that max power is made at rich running conditions (eg, 13.3:1) vs. 14.7 stoich. My car has seemed to dyno slightly higher than normal for 3.2L motors. . . I wonder if the rich conditions contribute to this. During my next dyno pull, I'll be sure to do a/f ratio too (I didn't do this before). Jeff
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#2. SA Konis adjustments - from DiVincenti, A.J.
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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 13:19:29 -0600 From: "DiVincenti, A.J." <ADiVin@lsuhsc.edu> Subject: SA Konis adjustments No hex on top. Just compress and turn. Here are the procedures form Koni. I won't laugh at you Lowell, but Paul might. AJ Adjustment Procedure 76, 80, 82, 86, 87, 88, 90, 8040, 8240 Series Rebound Adjustment Procedures Remove the shock absorber from the vehicle and hold it vertically with the lower eye or pin attached in a vise. Use clamp plates to prevent damage. Fully collapse the shock absorber, at the same time turning the dust cap or piston rod slowly to the left (counterclockwise), until it is felt that the cams of the adjustment nut engage in the recesses of the foot valve assembly. Some shock absorbers include a bump rubber concealed under the dust cover and it must be removed prior to adjusting. The damper may have already been adjusted. Therefore check whether the shock absorber is in the adjustment position or not by keeping it collapsed and gently turning it further to the left counting at the same time the half turns until a stop is felt. Stop turning then and do not use force. Keeping the shock absorber collapsed, make 1 half turn (180 degrees) to the right (clockwise). In case of prior adjustment add the number of half the turns previously found. The total range is about 5 half turns. Pull the shock absorber out vertically without turning for at least 1 cm to disengage the adjusting mechanism. The dust cap or piston rod may now be turned freely. ADJUSTING DIRECTION Clockwise = Firmer Counter Clockwise = Softer --------------------------------------------------------------------- -------------------- 8 -------------------- Date: Sun, 17 Mar 2002 15:47:15 EST From: LoweSeaton@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] SA Konis adjustments Paul asks: To adjust the rear konis' rebound settings, you have to compress the shock and then turn the body, right? Now, can this be done while the shock is on the car? ie, if you want to avoid accessing the rsm area, can you access it from the outside by removing the wheel, and unbolting the bottom of the shock...Then, maybe using another jack, or just brute force, pushing UP on the shock body til its compressed enough to adjust, and then turn it the way you want ? --------------------------------------- Should we all start laughing at Paul now?? Sorry Paul, I couldn't resist. <vbg> To answer your question, "Heck no!!!" You will have to remove the rear shock mounts. Not only do you have to compress the shock, you also have to use an allen wrench on the top to turn the adjuster. Any way you slice it, you have to access the top of the shock. I believe you have the E46M3 rear shock mounts? The best solution is the Ground Control RSM's. They can be easily removed from the wheel well. If I had Koni SA shocks, I would definitely use the GC RSM. I believe Ron Stygar fabricates a Z3 reinforcement ring that you can use to convert E46M3 RSM's to the Ground Control wheel well type if you really want to keep the E46M3 mounts. Lowell Seaton '95 M3 - Bilstein shocks Dallas, Texas
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#3. Re: WOOOOO HOOOOO - from steve crowl
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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 13:25:03 -0600 From: "steve crowl" <scrowl@austin.rr.com> Subject: Re: WOOOOO HOOOOO Well, he didn't say *which* Williams finished first maintaining some suspense. cheers, Steve
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#4. Anyone used one of these OBD-II Scan Tools - from Andrew E. Kalman
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Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 11:25:20 -0800 From: "Andrew E. Kalman" <aek@pumpkininc.com> Subject: Anyone used one of these OBD-II Scan Tools Hi All. Just wondering if anyone on the list has purchased an OBD-II scan tool from http://www.obd-2.com, and if so, what their impressions are. Their products are basically laptop software with an interface box to the OBD-II connector. Thanks, -- ______________________________________ Andrew E. Kalman, Ph.D. aek@pumpkininc.com
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#5. Re: [E36M3] SA Konis adjustments - from Chester Wong
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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 11:33:32 -0800 (PST) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] SA Konis adjustments There is a 6mm hex hole at the top of the shock shaft. The only easy way to turn the piston while applying a lot of force to overcome the internal gas pressure is to use a hex wrench....either a 6mm socket on a ratchet or a 6mm T-handle type allen driver. If you don't use either, it will be real hard to make the fine adjustment. Chester --- "DiVincenti, A.J." <ADiVin@lsuhsc.edu> wrote: > Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 13:19:29 -0600 > From: "DiVincenti, A.J." <ADiVin@lsuhsc.edu> > Subject: SA Konis adjustments > > No hex on top. Just compress and turn. Here are the procedures form Koni. > > I won't laugh at you Lowell, but Paul might. ===== __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Sports - live college hoops coverage http://sports.yahoo.com/
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#6. Re: [E36M3] Re: WOOOOO HOOOOO - from Mark Radelow
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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 19:31:03 +0000 From: "Mark Radelow" <radelow@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: WOOOOO HOOOOO Sheesh I didn't think I would get so much backlash for such a silly little post. Oh well. IN THE FUTURE I won't say anything about F1 races. Mark From: "steve crowl" <scrowl@austin.rr.com> Reply-To: "steve crowl" <scrowl@austin.rr.com> To: E36M3 <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Subject: [E36M3] Re: WOOOOO HOOOOO Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 13:27:03 -0600 Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 13:25:03 -0600 From: "steve crowl" <scrowl@austin.rr.com> Subject: Re: WOOOOO HOOOOO Well, he didn't say *which* Williams finished first maintaining some suspense. cheers, Steve ************************************************************* List Commands UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). To issue a command/request to the server: Send a message with the command you wish executed as the subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. ************************************************************* _________________________________________________________________ MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
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#7. Extended Warranty - from George R Carr Jr
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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 12:44:07 -0700 From: George R Carr Jr <georgercarrjr@earthlink.net> Subject: Extended Warranty My car is just reaching the limit of its warranty. I picked up the phone to call WarrentyGold. My 98 M3 has been reclassified so the rates are up $500 from last fall for the same coverage. What's the more recent pricing for their competition? Thanks, George -- =========================== georgercarrjr@earthlink.net
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#8. Re: SA Konis adjustments - from LoweSeaton@aol.com
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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 15:58:03 EST From: LoweSeaton@aol.com Subject: Re: SA Konis adjustments Chester beat me to the punch but I'll add my 2 cents. AJ, have you seen or adjusted E36 Koni rear shocks? The instructions you posted don't completely apply to the E36 versions. I see your instructions apply to 9 different series of Koni shocks. There apparently are two different versions of Koni SA rear shocks. The 1st version is just like the stock OEM BMW rear shocks. You have the main body with an eyelet on the bottom. Then you have the straight steel shaft extending out the top. The shaft is just that, no dust cover, no bumpstop, nothing. Just threads at the very top that you put through the RSM and tighten the top nut. You reuse the OEM bumpstop and dust shield. The shaft does have a hex opening at the end. The opening is useful to keep the shaft from turning while you tighten the top nut. I have seen a 2nd version of the Koni SA used on an MCoupe. This second version did indeed have an intergral metal dust cover that could be used to turn the shaft. It had the same basic design with a straight shaft but about 2 inches from the top, it had the dust cover weled to the shaft. When the shock was fully extended, the metal dust cover came to within about 1 inch of the main body. You could put a bumpstop inside the dust cover but I wouldn't recommend it. The bumpstop gets shoved all the way to the top of the cover and is nearly impossible to get out again. You can not adjust the shocks unless the bumpstop is out. Removing the bumpstop would just be another painful step to go through to adjust the shocks. You can adjust this 2nd version of Koni shocks without a hex bit. You just compress the shock (off the car) and twist the metal dust cover. However, it would take Superman's strength to compress, hold and turn the E36 version without some sort of hex tool. About the best tool to use is a T-handle allen wrench. You can bear down on the T-handle and then turn the shaft. Of course, you can always go to Bilsteins. ;-) You can love or hate Bilsteins, but you are stuck with them either way. <g> Lowell Seaton '95 M3 - Bilsteins (laughing but with a sore butt) Dallas, TX
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#9. o2 sensor fault - from Juan Bruce
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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 13:21:51 -0800 From: "Juan Bruce" <jbrucebmw@hotmail.com> Subject: o2 sensor fault Last week I mentioned that while I was at the track the check engine light went on in my M3 with the fault code 1221 for the o2 sensor. It stayed on for about the next 2 days then went off. It has flashed back on occasionally when lifting off the throttle to shift up under light acceleration as well as close to redline under hard acceleration. Soot in the tail pipes and on the rear end seems to indicate its running rich. On the other hand, for a long time now (50k miles), I have occasionally heard what sounds like pinging under hard acceleration from low/mid rpms. I remember some people on the list a long time ago saying that this is not pinging, its just the intake noise, but in my case maybe it actually is pinging. Here's the things I have thought of so far. 1. The o2 sensor is going and thus no longer reading correctly. The car then defaults to a rich condition to protect the engine. 2. Something else is making it run rich and its coating the o2 sensor so it can not meter correctly. This theory does not work well with the light flashing on occasionally. 3. Something else is screwing with the Air/Fuel mixture so sometimes its rich and sometimes its lean. Maybe the AFM is not working correctly or there is not enough fuel being delivered and the computer is trying compensate. This might be due to the fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator or injectors. I'm not sure what to start with. I could check the o2 sensor's output but its not curretnly faulting so I'm not sure that would tell me anything. Maybe I should just replace it to see if that fixes things. The engine is totally stock including chip and intake. Any ideas? -Juan Bruce BMW CCA GGC '85 M635CSi '95 M3 _________________________________________________________________ MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
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#10. RE: [E36M3] Kumho updates (was FS: $300 gift certificate at Tirer - from jim.bassett@alloptic.com
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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 13:36:51 -0800 From: jim.bassett@alloptic.com Subject: RE: [E36M3] Kumho updates (was FS: $300 gift certificate at Tirer > I can provide some feedback to the list (if I remember; > someone can always > remind me :-)). Well, after a really weird track weekend at Sears Point, I have some feedback on the new Ecsta V700 competition tire. (The weird part of the weekend had to do with the track configuration. Construction wasn't completed in time to run nearly the whole course, so we were left with <50% of the track. Basically through the Carousel down to turn 7, turn left up the Chute to Turn 4, left again to Turn 5. ~46 sec lap times :-) Results at: http://www.bmwccaclubracing.com/2002%20Series/Results/02sears.htm) Anyway, the new Kumhos worked very well. I purchased them shaved & heat cycled (235/40/17 on 7.5" Motorsport rims, FYI). They took about half of a 25 minute session to get properly scrubbed-in, but once they did, they really starting sticking well. There's a good amount of feedback, both auditory & feel. When they loose traction (which they did a couple of times :-)), it's fairly controlled. There was a bit more feel for slip angles than I recalled on the Victoracers, but not as much as I've experienced with the Hoosiers (driven them once on a race-prepped '02 in an Enduro). One thing to note, is that the right front tire started to develop the "groove of doom" that some might recall from the old BFG R1s. This tire was *heavily* loaded through the Carousel, and pretty much throughout the rest of the course as well. Hopefully this won't be too much of an issue on longer, better balanced tracks; I'm not too concerned about it at the moment. Probably some tire pressure adjustment and/or more neg camber should correct this. The other 3 tires wore well, although I expect they will wear faster than the Victoracers did. I got about 10 track days out of the Victoracers (also shaved & heat cycled), including driving to/from several of those events. The Ecstas will be for track use only. At $132/each (plus shaving & heat cycling), I think they are a pretty good deal. One of these days my skills may be up to "Hoosier level" <g>, but for now I'll run the Ecstas. Cheers, Jim Bassett 1998 M3/4 - 2 days on the Victoracers 1993 325is #44 KP - 8 days on the Victoracers, 1-1/2 days on the Ecstas