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#1. Re: [E36M3] hr coilover compatibility - from LoweSeaton@aol.com
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Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 08:43:01 EST From: LoweSeaton@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] hr coilover compatibility James writes: > i noticed on turners web site that sell a M3 3.0 94-95 and a m3 3.2 > 96-99, are there any difference between the two? -james You mean the H&R OE springs, not the coilover application. There is just one application listed for the coilovers. But to answer your question, yes there are differences between the 94-95 and 96+ front springs. The upper front spring perch is slightly smaller on the 96+ M3. That is, the springs are slightly smaller in diameter at the top to fit. It is not a big difference but you have to match the springs to the perch. If you happen to get the wrong size springs, you can purchase the matching perches and still use the springs. The upper perches are interchangable between 95 and 96+. Lowell Seaton '95 M3
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#2. Re: Alignment setting suggestions - from Vern Anderson
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Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 09:13:19 -0500 From: "Vern Anderson" <vernon_anderson@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: Alignment setting suggestions Sean, As I mentioned to you a while back, I follow Bob Tunnell's alignment philosophy and it has proven to work well in my car for both track and autocross. Front: Camber - depends on the tires and the track. For Yoko track tires, I like -2.75 or -3.0. For Hoosier R3S03 tires on the track, I like -3.0 or -3.25. For Hoosier A3S03's for autocross, I like -3.25 to -3.75, depending on how tight and nasty the course is. My Ground Control plates have a maximum of about -5.5 degrees (which looks pretty hilarious, but I would never drive it that way) and a minimum of about -1.75. At minimum, my street tires show no extra wear. Caster - I have mine cranked back all the way, which for my plates is about -6.5. Toe - Zero toe. Car turns in great and tracks perfect on highway and at high speeds on track. I forget if you installed camber plates or not; if you didn't, then the camber/caster info is moot. Rear: On the rear, you should set the camber to maximum (use the eccentric bolt), then set the toe to where you want it to be for competition (by the way, you don't need the fancy tool that BMW recommends to adjust the camber, a nice big screwdriver will do once you loosen the three bolts on the toe-plate). I run lots of toe-in in the rear, about 1/2 inch total at max camber. Then set the camber to minimum and see what toe that gives you. On my car, max rear camber is -3.0 and I set my toe at that setting to be about 1/2 inch total toe-in. At min camber (on my car it's about -1.5 to -1.75) the toe is about -1/4 total. You can set the rear camber at every event, it takes about 10 minutes total to set both sides, you don't even need to jack the car up. These settings seem to work well as the car feels great and I get very even temps on the pyrometer. At min camber settings F/R, my street tires wear very even. At max settings, my Hoosiers and Yoko's stay happy. Vern 98 M3/2 -------------------- 10 -------------------- Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 05:34:56 -0800 (PST) From: Sean Silva <seanjsilva@yahoo.com> Subject: Alignment setting suggestions I just installed a Koni DA coilover suspension system in my M3. I'm going to have my car aligned and I want to suggest some settings to the mechanic. Does anyone know of sporty but tolerable front and rear settings for camber, caster, and toe for the street? Also, how much negative camber in the front is preferred on track days? Thanks.
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#3. RE: [E36M3] OT: The Whys of owning an SUV - from Mel Silva
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Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 08:55:29 -0600 From: "Mel Silva" <melsilva@mindspring.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] OT: The Whys of owning an SUV I printed this article and left it "lying around" so my wife would stumble across it. She is one of those SUV "captains", and has been since her 300Z got smashed from behind by, you guessed it, a large truck-like thing. I know her point of view, and not that I share it, but she has been caught up in the race of taller and taller vehicles. This is more prevalent here in Houston than in the Bay Area of CA where we both grew up. She says that she likes being "higher up so she can see traffic". I agree to some extent, I hate following an Excursion or a Suburban through commute traffic because I can only react to that what I can see, and I can't see around these things. To me they are nothing but moving blind spots. I have this compulsion to get around them so that I can see the road. Nothing gets me hotter than to be stuck behind a seemingly endless stream of slow moving blind spots. I also think my wife has a point; I think some people buy SUV's so they can see over or around the other SUV's and it's become a vicious cycle of "I can't see, I need a bigger vehicle". What have we come to? Will it take another fuel crisis like we had in the '70s to stop it? One more counter-point; I have also seen the Ford Taurus with 10 humans of varying sizes stuffed into it and this is infinitely more dangerous than a Suburban with a single occupant. I just see the huge whatever with a single occupant more often. Sports car may be impractical for picking up Aunt Mary and Uncle Joe from the airport (4 door M3 excluded), but more frequently Americans drive back and forth to jobs or errands by themselves so unless they are going to Home Depot to get a load of lumber, soccer practice, etc., why must their daily driver be this huge lumbering road block? Thanks for the bandwidth, sorry about the essay, Mel ---------------------------------------------------- Others can see around my car are not blinded by my headlights etc I don't know, you can make some similar points about sports cars.. but the M3 is not a good comparison because it's too sensible. Try comparing a porsche to an SUV. Even then, at least you have a vehicle that is designed to do well on paved surfaces, where it will be used. Still more sensible than the SUV. Although maybe similar markups :)
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#4. Alignment setting suggestions - from Bob Stommel
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Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 10:12:05 -0500 From: Bob Stommel <rstommel@iquest.net> Subject: Alignment setting suggestions Sean: Any alignment setting that is good for the track will be less comfortable on the street. There are no settings that will make the car handle great for both uses. The more you move away from the factory settings, the more difficult the car will be to drive on the street. You need to decide which one is more important to you and how much you want to compromise the other use. If your goal is better handling on the track, but you still want to be able to drive it on the street, try these: Front camber: 2.0-2.5 degrees negative Rear camber: 1.5-2 degrees negative Front toe: Zero to 1/16 total toe-out Rear toe: 1/16 total toe-in With these settings, the car will turn into corners better and will track better in mid-corner. The car will "dart" slightly under heavy braking at the end of long, high-speed straights, but it's worth it to get better handling in the corners. You will also see increased wear on the inner edges of your tires on the street and the front end of the car will have less traction at high speed in the rain due to the front toe setting. Remember when you choose your final settings that a half degree of camber change or 1/16 inch change in total toe can make a big difference in how the car handles. Drivers have different driving styles, so you may have to go back and try different settings until you get the one that fits you. The above settings are good for a car driven on the street and at driving school/autocross events. If this were a race car, my alignment suggestions would be radically different (much more negative camber, more toe-out in the front, more toe-in in the rear). Regardless of what other settings you choose, make sure the left and right sides match (i.e. no "stagger") -- unless you plan to do all your track driving on ovals -- and leave the caster alone. HTH, Bob Stommel SPG Motorsports Indianapolis >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 05:34:56 -0800 (PST) From: Sean Silva <seanjsilva@yahoo.com> Subject: Alignment setting suggestions I just installed a Koni DA coilover suspension system in my M3. I'm going to have my car aligned and I want to suggest some settings to the mechanic. Does anyone know of sporty but tolerable front and rear settings for camber, caster, and toe for the street? Also, how much negative camber in the front is preferred on track days? Thanks.
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#5. RE: [E36M3] re: Anyone in Houston with a Steelman ChassisEar? - from Mel Silva
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Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 09:01:52 -0600 From: "Mel Silva" <melsilva@mindspring.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] re: Anyone in Houston with a Steelman ChassisEar? >Barrett >P.S. Anyone know who owns the nice silver '95 M3 in NW Houston (I see it >at the YMCA) with Hamman 18" rims and Brembo 4 pot brakes, big floating >rotors? I'd like to find out who he bought the brakes from. --------------------------------------- Hey, I saw this car when I was at PF Chang's on Westheimer for lunch yesterday! I was driving Penny (http://www.amt.org/mel/Penny_BMW_M3.htm) at the time and he flew up behind me on Westheimer and made a left before I could get a good look at it, but the Hamman 18" rims stood out! -Mel
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#6. Re: [E36M3] 245s on 8.5s up front? - from twisty M3
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Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 09:09:49 -0800 From: "twisty M3" <twistym3@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] 245s on 8.5s up front? >From: Andrej Dolenc <adolenc@erols.com> > >heavier steering feel: yes. > I agree that their is a difference in steering feel, but I wouldn't necessarily call it "heavier." More "solid" is probably the word I'd use. I don't find that it requires any more effort to steer... In fact, with the 245s and -2 degrees camber, the steering is quite immediate and direct, even at low speeds. > >tramlining: yes. > Ditto. Not terrible, but it reminds me to keep both hands on the wheel. ;) > >understeer: definitely less. > Absolutely! It's a shame the car didn't come from the factory this way. > >No regrets on my part for going to 245's all the way around, I plan on >sticking with 245/40/17's all the way around. > Not a single regret here either. In fact, if anyone happens to have an extra set of 4 x 8.5" wheels with factory offsets that are straight 'n true, let me know. I'm looking for an affordable set of track wheels. Jonathan L. _________________________________________________________________ Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com
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#7. RE: [E36M3] OT: The Whys of owning an SUV - from peter@guagenti.com
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Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 09:12:06 US/Pacific From: peter@guagenti.com Subject: RE: [E36M3] OT: The Whys of owning an SUV > I printed this article and left it "lying around" so my wife would stumble > across it. You were a lot more gentle about it then I was -- I sent it directly to my wife with "See, they're dangerous!" note on it. With her 328i starting to get some high mileage, she's lookign at getting something newer. I've offered to buy her pretty much any reasonably priced two seater, sedan, or sport wagon, if should only pass up the damned truck. What does she want? A freakin' Land Rover Disco. Sheesh. > This is more prevalent here in > Houston than in the Bay Area of CA where we both grew up. No, it's just as terrible here. I've taken to doing whatever it takes to pass the various SUVs, minivans, and jacked-up pickups so that I can actually _see_ the flow of traffic. > I also think my wife has a point; I think some people buy SUV's so they can > see over or around the other SUV's and it's become a vicious cycle of "I > can't see, I need a bigger vehicle". What have we come to? Will it take > another fuel crisis like we had in the '70s to stop it? Probably. The interesting thing about this is though, there's a middle ground. Have you ever driven a Volvo XC, or sat in a new Toyota Matrix? They are taller than normal sedans, offer a bit better ground clearance, all the rear cargo room of the average SUV, and have that upright seating position that SUV owners crave. Why don't people buy those? Ask the good Doctor Freud. > occupant more often. Sports car may be impractical for picking up Aunt Mary > and Uncle Joe from the airport (4 door M3 excluded), but more frequently > Americans drive back and forth to jobs or errands by themselves so unless I want to make a point about "buying the car to fit the lifestyle". Just as bad as the SUV owners who never see a dirt road, much less a lack-thereof, are the various Porsche, Ferrari, Lambo drivers you see around the Bay Area who drive like my grandmother on a sunday and, when pushed, could barely drive a Taurus, much less such a fine piece of machinery. It's debateable whether driving over the speed limit on a public road is morally reprehensible or not, but it's still horribly depressing to a beutiful new twin-turbo driven by some idiot, who's hogging the left lane doing 5-over while yapping on his cell phone. For an enthusiast, seeing this just kills me. -peterg ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- This message was sent using HiSpeed Technologies Webmail. http://www.hispeed.com
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#8. RE: [E36M3] OT: The Whys of owning an SUV - from Juan Rico
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Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 09:51:19 -0800 From: Juan Rico <juan_rico@captionsinc.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] OT: The Whys of owning an SUV You guys are missing the point here... Thank God all of America has decided to buy SUV's. You imagine if everyone was buying Mustang GT's, Camaros SS's, Corvette's, Firebirds, Subaru WRX's...? My God, what a nightmare. Hurray for SUV's. That way us, in our M3's, can outrun and embarrass them all the time :)
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#9. RE: [E36M3] 245s on 8.5s up front? - from jim.bassett@alloptic.com
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Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 09:55:48 -0800 From: jim.bassett@alloptic.com Subject: RE: [E36M3] 245s on 8.5s up front? > fit! I would > prefer having 245x40-17 on all 4 corners for ability to > rotate, and for > mounting flexibility. But.....Ive heard from some that the > steering feel is > 'heavier', True, but I happen to like it. And you get used to it after a while. > and there is noticable tramlining I wouldn't say "noticable". It will actually depend on how much neg. camber you have. When I had the front bearing hats swapped, there was some tramlining, but now that I've un-swapped them I don't notice any tramlining. > ...Ive also heard > from others > that turn in is sharper, the feel is more stable, and > understeer is reduced. All pretty much true, especially the reduction in understeer. > Also, since they used to run 235x40 up front, how much > 'heavier' could 245s > be? Comments? Hmm, you may not notice as big of a difference as those of us that went from 225s to 245s. Cheers, Jim Bassett
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#10. How to find strut hat noises. (Jay M) - from TFRM3@aol.com
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Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 14:25:29 EST From: TFRM3@aol.com Subject: How to find strut hat noises. (Jay M) Open hood, remove strut covers, lean onto strut towers with both hands, just like you see them do on "Cops". Put your index fingers on top of the strut nuts, and bounce car with knee. If you can easily feel it, it is the strut bearing. If it feels pretty tight, look elsewhere i.e. sway bar link.
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#11. '98 M3/4 Parts for sale - from Jimburnick@aol.com
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Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 17:07:13 EST From: Jimburnick@aol.com Subject: '98 M3/4 Parts for sale Found a few more parts to go with the parts I listed for sale a few weeks ago. Here's what I still have left to sell. - Rear set of Shocks/Springs - Clutch, Pressure Plate and flywheel - Intake with Fuel Rail, Injectors and Throttle Bodies - Exhaust system including downpipe, resonators, cats, and muffler/tailpipe. All Parts are stock M3 removed from the car for aftermarket replacements at a few thousand miles. Make offer... Please respond through private email. Buyer can pick up parts from me in Danbury Ct. area or pay shipping. Jim
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#12. FS: '96 M3 Springs and sway bars - from Stan.Shaw@Excell.Net
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Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 17:50:12 -0500 From: <Stan.Shaw@Excell.Net> Subject: FS: '96 M3 Springs and sway bars stock '96 M3 sway bars removed from car around 90k miles, asking $100 plus shipping stock '96 M3 springs removed from car around 120k miles, asking $50 plus shipping Regards, Stan Shaw Excell.Net Phone: (413) 599-0399 Fax: (413) 599-0421 Stan.Shaw@Excell.Net http://www.excell.net/ "They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety." - Benjamin Franklin
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#13. OT: bought an E46 M3 last week - from Hunt Hodgetts
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Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 16:34:01 -0800 (PST) From: Hunt Hodgetts <hhodgetts@yahoo.com> Subject: OT: bought an E46 M3 last week Hey guys, I've had one hell of a week. I purchased an E46 M3 last week at one of Atlant's wholesale auctions for a client. It's black with black leather, perfect in every way. 2001 model with 8k miles. $48,000 !! My client didn't take delivery until today so I've been driving it for a week. It is much faster than my 98 E36 M3, especially above 60 mph, handles better (or mabye it just feels that way), and has a much more luxurious interior. If anyone else wants one, email me, I see two a month at the wholesale auctions. Hunt ===== Hunt Hodgetts Wholesale Auto Broker 404-644-6020 I sell cars to the public at wholesale prices Example: 2001 Toyota Camry LE, 15k miles, $12,500 2001 Volkswagen Jetta GLX, 15k miles, $16,500 most still under Mfg bumper to bumper warranty __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Movies - coverage of the 74th Academy Awards(r) http://movies.yahoo.com/
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#14. Re: [E36M3] 245s on 8.5s up front? - from Paul Elliott
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Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 19:35:02 -0500 From: "Paul Elliott" <elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] 245s on 8.5s up front? Well, Jim, actually Im moving up from 225s also...I just used the 235 as an example of the idea that if BMW equipped the '95 with 235 up front, then they must be endorsing a very similar size to steer, so my point was how big a diff could the small change to 245 make... The one thing I was afraid of, and did not want to do was to change the character substantially of the car...Now that might sound strange coming from a guy with more mods than you can shake a stick at , including major blower, but the steering or this car is so excellent from the factory, that I didnt want to change the character too much of That particular system. To me, I like the idea of being able to rotate, particular given how much quicker the rears go than the fronts....I think the rears need replacing about twice as often as the fronts. For road use, hypothetically, with the stagger, at 20K miles, you replace the rears; at 40K miles you replace all 4s. So, youre doing rears every 20K and all 4s every Other 20K....For regular rotation, I think you wind up replacing all 4s every 40K. Which means that every 40K miles, youve saved yourself the cost of 2 tires, which is often close to $500. Also, sometimes if you notice a vibration, its nice to be able to swap the fronts and rears in an effort to eliminate til you get a chance to have the offending wheels properly balanced. I really dont see any benefit to the stock stagger. Except, again, if BMW considers it such a superior steering configuration, for feel, and for handling....After all, they moved from 235s all around to the stagger....I'm told this was not so much to improve steering feel, but rather to lessen the relative tendency to oversteer they found with the egalitarian setup..... So, I guess most things point to 245s in front....I wonder...going through a high speed slalom, which do you think would win....the 225s up front because of their quickness and lightness, or the 245s up front because of their bite and their resistance to understeer? Paul Elliott --------------------------------------------------------- '99 White M3; < 40K miles; Dinan stage II SC kit with 6" RMS crank pulley: 11 psi; AA Water Injection; Rotex pads;X-Brace; Dinan Koni Suspension; Stygar SS and Clutch Stop; Sound by Polk, Excelon, JLAudio ----- Original Message ----- From: <jim.bassett@alloptic.com> To: <elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net>; <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Wednesday, March 20, 2002 12:55 PM Subject: RE: [E36M3] 245s on 8.5s up front? > > fit! I would > > prefer having 245x40-17 on all 4 corners for ability to > > rotate, and for > > mounting flexibility. But.....Ive heard from some that the > > steering feel is > > 'heavier', > > True, but I happen to like it. And you get used to it after a while. > > > and there is noticable tramlining > > I wouldn't say "noticable". It will actually depend on how much neg. camber > you have. When I had the front bearing hats swapped, there was some > tramlining, but now that I've un-swapped them I don't notice any tramlining. > > > ...Ive also heard > > from others > > that turn in is sharper, the feel is more stable, and > > understeer is reduced. > > All pretty much true, especially the reduction in understeer. > > > Also, since they used to run 235x40 up front, how much > > 'heavier' could 245s > > be? Comments? > > Hmm, you may not notice as big of a difference as those of us that went from > 225s to 245s. > > Cheers, > Jim Bassett >
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#15. UNSCUBSCRIBE - from Mike Connor
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Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 21:42:19 -0500 From: Mike Connor <msconnor@earthlink.net> Subject: UNSCUBSCRIBE
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#16. 245s on 8.5s up front? - from David Hogg
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Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 22:03:15 -0800 From: "David Hogg" <springwood@blazenet.net> Subject: 245s on 8.5s up front? And Andre has them purdy FM10's, too! The tramlining isn't bad at all if you retain the stock alignment settings, but it is a little more than stock. Same with steering - a very little bit heavier but no big deal. All of your other statements are true: less understeer, better turn-in (especially with an X-brace!). But the true beauty is rotation! My dad was bemoaning the awful tire wear on his 740il Sport over the weekend and there's no way he can rotate tires. Reminded me how thankful I am to have gone 245's all around. Dave Hogg
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#17. RE: [E36M3] OT: The Whys of owning an SUV - from Chris
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Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 20:48:18 -0800 From: "Chris" <ccurry@curry.org> Subject: RE: [E36M3] OT: The Whys of owning an SUV One must also take into account the driver... A Taurus can be the most practical car in the world if one is very defensive. It does not matter that it takes twice the distance to stop than in an M3, if driven defensively one will get to point b just as easily and likely much cheaper (looking at the up front costs and even maintenance-wise). I on the other hand am a much more aggressive driver. Not realizing how horribly deficient the brakes on the Taurus were compared to my M3, I was easily 250 feet away from traffic when I slammed on the brakes going 80mph in my friend's Taurus... not only did we not stop in time, but we went another 30 feet in the empty contruction lane (thank god) that I swerved into at the last second. In my M3 that would have been a gentle stop, however, if one is defensive that situation could have been completely avoided by abiding by the 65mph speed limit ( maybe less ). In response to a Porsche being designed to "do well on paved surfaces, where it will be used." as a practical defense... I don't agree. A Porsche/M3 is indeed made to do well on paved surfaces, but is by no means more practical than an SUV. Many of the things it was designed to do aren't needed on a point a/b vehicle. All street vehicles are of course designed for paved surfaces, maybe not for high speeds, but high speeds are of course, impractical. I must say that I am VERY impractical, and I can easily say that almost every car on the road is impractical. Like I said before, that essay can be applied virtually anywhere. The clothes I am now wearing... impractical, not designed for any specific season or temperature, but merely to cover my naked body, but not for warmth. Bah, I could go on but this is too long as it is. Chris 1995 Black M3 2002 Blau 328 Convertible 1985 Brown 528e (all of these are very impractical) =) -----Original Message----- From: Mel Silva [mailto:melsilva@mindspring.com] Sent: Wednesday, March 20, 2002 6:57 AM To: E36M3 Subject: RE: [E36M3] OT: The Whys of owning an SUV Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 08:55:29 -0600 From: "Mel Silva" <melsilva@mindspring.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] OT: The Whys of owning an SUV "I printed this article and left it "lying around" so my wife would stumble across it. She is one of those SUV "captains", and has been since her 300Z got smashed from behind by, you guessed it, a large truck-like thing. I know her point of view, and not that I share it, but she has been caught up in the race of taller and taller vehicles. This is more prevalent here in Houston than in the Bay Area of CA where we both grew up. She says that she likes being "higher up so she can see traffic"."...
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#18. FS: H&R OE Sport Spring set - from Chester Wong
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Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 21:28:55 -0800 (PST) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: FS: H&R OE Sport Spring set Used for about 1000 - 1500 miles for approx. 1 - 2 months. This is for all E36s (this kit requires the '95M3 spring hat). Make me an offer. Chester ===== __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Movies - coverage of the 74th Academy Awards(r) http://movies.yahoo.com/
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#19. Leaking water pump swap... - from morris.michael@adlittle.com
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Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 11:09:58 -0500 From: morris.michael@adlittle.com Subject: Leaking water pump swap... Hello List, I swapped my leaking water pump this morning and after a close inspection, it looks like the seal on the shaft is ruined, and I am attributing this to the overheat that I had due to a broken radiator neck. This water pump is only 5 months old. I did not have a chance to put everything back together due to time constraints and the fact that I lost one of the M6 Nuts to hold the pump on. (It never hit the ground which worries me, it is lost in the pulleys.....) Symptoms were a steady drip from the block from right below the water pump and fan pulley once the car was turned on and continuing after it was turned off. I will report back and let you all know if this solved the problem once I find or purchase another M6 nut. Another interesting item is that both metal water pumps I have received have been a bit different. One had a black impeller and a rubber shaft seal (from what I can tell) vs. a gold/copper looking impeller and a much more robust looking shaft seal (copper?). The black impeller WP is the one that started leaking. I don't recall who made it but I know the gold/copper impeller colored pump is made by Geba. Also, when swapping your radiator, or if you ever have to remove it, buy some extra radiator clips beforehand because there is a good chance you will break one taking them off. Regards, Mike Morris **** This is intended for the addressee only and may contain confidential business information. It may not be copied without our permission. If you are not the intended recipient, please contact the sender as soon as possible and delete the material from any computer.****