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#1. Re: Valentine One Installation - from NSimon1111@aol.com
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Date: Fri, 22 Mar 2002 08:42:21 EST From: NSimon1111@aol.com Subject: Re: Valentine One Installation I live in DC -- where radar detectors are illegal -- and have my V1 hidden inside a visor-mounted CD storage device. I cut a small flap so I can see the display and adjust the volume. Not particularly elegant, but it's cheap and effective. Neil Wash, DC 99 M Coupe
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#2. Re: [E36M3] Re: Valentine One Installation - from R. Ehrlich, 98 M3
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Date: Fri, 22 Mar 2002 09:05:11 -0500 From: "R. Ehrlich, 98 M3" <rehrlich98m3@mindspring.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Valentine One Installation Just to let you know Neil, most radar in DC is laser. And there is enough interference in DC to limit the effectiveness of detectors. Plus, as a DC Area resident, you can be arrested for having a detector, IF you get caught. R Ehrlich 98 M3, Alpine White
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#3. Installing Turner Wheel Studs - from shane.a.kleinpeter@accenture.com
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Date: Fri, 22 Mar 2002 09:29:41 -0500 From: shane.a.kleinpeter@accenture.com Subject: Installing Turner Wheel Studs Has anybody installed the wheel stud conversion from Turner? They came without directions so I am assuming that I need to apply some red loctite and double nut them to install. I figure I need to torque them to at least 90 lb-ft, if not more. Any experience and advice appreciated. Thanks, Shane This message is for the designated recipient only and may contain privileged, proprietary, or otherwise private information. If you have received it in error, please notify the sender immediately and delete the original. Any other use of the email by you is prohibited.
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#4. Re: [E36M3] Re: Re[2]: 245s on 8.5s up front? - from Andrej Dolenc
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Date: Fri, 22 Mar 2002 09:51:31 -0600 From: Andrej Dolenc <adolenc@erols.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Re[2]: 245s on 8.5s up front? I've had them for a while, say spring of '99 or so. Andrej '97 M3 > when did you buy your fikses? On the phone today when ordering, I was told > that theyve started using a slightly heavier aluminum to craft their rim > halves. >> > 8.5 and 245 all around....Finally! For those concerned about Fikse > bending, >> > they told me that theyve gone to a heavier rim aluminum which cuts back >> > substantially on the bending risk in street use...Of course, if you hit > a >> > curb hard, or a building, well forget it...But for typical street > pothole >> > obstructions, it shouldnt be as much of an issue. >> >> In my opinion, one of the advantages of the Fikse's is the fact that >> it's a 3 piece rim. I didn't much think about this when I bought >> them, but after I bent and just slightly cracked an inner rim half >> (don't ask, I have no clue how or when it happened. Tail end of a >> 17000 mile road trip, and it still held air pressure), the 3 piece >> part came in to play awsomely - the damaged rim half got replaced with >> a new one, presto, the wheel's good to go and not structurally >> weakened. >> >> Andrej >> '97 M3
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#5. Re: 245s on 8.5s up front? - from Michael
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Date: Fri, 22 Mar 2002 10:06:02 -0500 From: "Michael" <95m3ltw@charter.net> Subject: Re: 245s on 8.5s up front? It is kinda a complex question. On one hand, you will have more rubber contacting the road but the rubber contacting the road is most likely well past its useful friction life. I would think it would be a very hard rubber when the tire is bald and worn out vs the good rubber that the treads are made of. Most tires usually have a hard rubber base vs the rubber the tread is molded out of. I am no tire expert but remember reading something like that. Also, in my personal experience with High HP cars growing up, when the rear tires were slick from being worn out, they did tend to spin quite easily vs new tires. I can remember spinning the rear tires for what seemed like a very long distance at 60-70mph in a late 80's mustang vs hardly any spin when it had new/good tires on it. Anybody remember the Goodyear Gatorbacks, very pricey and very crappy compared to what we have today. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Paul Elliott" <elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net> To: <95m3ltw@charter.net> Cc: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Thursday, March 21, 2002 8:38 PM Subject: 245s on 8.5s up front? > >>Only benefit I see of having rear good tires vs poor > fronts is to prevent tail slides? etc? Which is only relative to ones > driving ability. Give me tail happy any day over understeering straight > off<< > > Dont evenly worn rear tires provide MORE dry traction, due to more rubber on > the road? I would tend to agree with you...I would think that, especially > in the wet, that youd want the more tred on the front, due to the risk of > hydroplaning on bald fronts... > > Paul Elliott > --------------------------------------------------------- > '99 White M3; < 40K miles; Dinan stage II SC kit with 6" RMS crank pulley: > 11 psi; AA Water Injection; Rotex pads;X-Brace; Dinan Koni Suspension; > Stygar SS and Clutch Stop; Sound by Polk, Excelon, JLAudio > >
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#6. RE: [E36M3] 245s on 8.5s up front? / Aquaplaning - from Dan Hermann
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Date: Fri, 22 Mar 2002 09:44:32 -0600 From: "Dan Hermann" <dah328@hotmail.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] 245s on 8.5s up front? / Aquaplaning Jeremy Conners wrote: >>Ahh...but if you're naive about how the ASC+T works, like I was, and you >>have bald rears and 50% fronts you'll be in for the spin of your life when >>the rears hydroplane and the fronts don't. I now take my chances (or >>should I say don't) in the rain by turning the stupid ASC OFF!!!!!!! >>Nothing like having the car decide you don't need any power to the >>rear...in effect pulling the e-brake on you. Guess what? >>Insta-F---ing-Spin...and I was quick to go full-opposite-lock.<< a former tire engineer on the UUC digest (Gary Derian) also recommends tires with better tread on the rear for wet conditions. i don't think oversteer in dry conditions is quite the same as different traction (front/rear) through water. my only bad water experience was in a p*ntiac grand am (POS edition) so i don't think much of that carries over to a rear-drive BMW. dan 96 M3 -- 18x8" tires rotated religiously for even tread wear 88 325is -- same with 15x7" _________________________________________________________________ Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com
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#7. RE: [E36M3] 245s on 8.5s up front? - from Dorffer, Rich
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Date: Fri, 22 Mar 2002 10:58:32 -0500 From: "Dorffer, Rich" <RDORFFER@CleIndians.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] 245s on 8.5s up front? I spout off with >> >>I am of the opinion that the best tread should always be on the rear<< Paul asks > > What about the risk of aquaplaning? If youre down to the last few 32nds up > front, and youre in the rain, I would think that this is a major impediment > to steering and to traction. If you hydroplane, do you want the front to lose traction, or the rear??? I am just trying to say you really don't want to lose the rear. Most drivers are not going to handle the situation too well when the rear is significantly more worn than the front. Yes, you will have steering, but it won't matter much when the rear comes around in the rain or inclement weather. With my suggestion, the worst case scenario is the car will push straight ahead. This is much more palatable than having the rear with no traction. I can't be entirely wrong, all the safety advocates agree and this is part of the explanation for staggered set-ups. Michael says > > I am in the opinion of wanting the best tread in the location that does the > most braking, like the fronts which do 70% of the braking. I have driven > many different vehicles with bad tires up front, bad tires in rear etc and I > would much rather have the following I would agree but I think in inclement weather, your braking will be limited already due to the road surface. If the rears won't hold traction, braking won't matter much as the rear is coming around. The fronts will either brake or push. > Bad tires in the rear, maintain steering control, rear blowout is not as > bad as front, front does 70% of braking, makes sense to have best tires > doing the braking. Only benefit I see of having rear good tires vs poor > fronts is to prevent tail slides? etc? Which is only relative to ones > driving ability. Give me tail happy any day over understeering straight off > the road. Good points but driving ability is an important factor here, but it is not everything since equipment is playing a vital role as well. Most drivers (this may not include highly skilled drivers such as Michael) will need to avoid the rear end sliding around more than the car pushing some. How many here (better drivers than average I assume) had less bad things happen, on the track or the street, when the front of their car pushed in a corner versus the rear stepping out considerably on them. Come on, let's see a raise of hands. That's what I thought. I wasn't really addressing a blowout but, front or rear, it will be handled similarly in either case although I would prefer it in the rear of the car as well. If your tires are so bad that they may blowout, it is time to replace them. Best regards, Rich - Raising my hand too since I have gone off backwards (prefers going off forwards ;-)
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#8. San Juan - from Burgess, Kim L
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Date: Fri, 22 Mar 2002 08:05:58 -0800 From: "Burgess, Kim L" <kim.l.burgess@boeing.com> Subject: San Juan Carey wrote: "It will be me, my wife, 2 sons 23 and 26 and 1 girlfriend, 25" If you are taking the wife and (1) girlfriend, sounds like your time will be fully occupied. .........ummm...........how old is your wife :) KLB
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#9. Re: [E36M3] Installing Turner Wheel Studs - from twisty M3
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Date: Fri, 22 Mar 2002 08:24:26 -0800 From: "twisty M3" <twistym3@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Installing Turner Wheel Studs No personal experience, but a friend of mine did the conversion along with a write up here: http://geocities.com/bmwpm3/studs.htm Not sure if they're the same wheel studs, but they'd have to be close, I'd imagine. Jonathan L. >From: shane.a.kleinpeter@accenture.com > >Subject: Installing Turner Wheel Studs > > >Has anybody installed the wheel stud conversion from Turner? They came >without directions so I am assuming that I need to apply some red loctite >and double nut them to install. I figure I need to torque them to at least >90 lb-ft, if not more. > >Any experience and advice appreciated. > >Thanks, > >Shane _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp.
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#10. [E36M3] R-Compounds: Appropriate? - from twisty M3
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Date: Fri, 22 Mar 2002 08:34:50 -0800 From: "twisty M3" <twistym3@hotmail.com> Subject: [E36M3] R-Compounds: Appropriate? Just curious as to the general consensus on when it's an "appropriate" time to switch to r-compounds for track use. While it's true that you can learn more on street rubber, burning through street tires isn't really a wise economic choice for me at this point. It's hard to even rationalize putting a good chunk of money up front for a seperate set of wheels, until I think about how much more life I can get on the street. I'm in the midst of looking for track wheels, but starting to question whether it's "time" or not. I plan on doing several schools per year now, and the idea of having dedicated track wheels/tires just seems to makes sense. I also couldn't see wasting money by having two sets of street tires, so r-compounds (Toyos or Yoks) sound like a smarter choice... and quite a bit more fun. ;) Any opinions on the matter? Jonathan L. _________________________________________________________________ MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx