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#1. RE: [E36M3] 245s on 8.5s up front? - from Zack Steinkamp
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Date: Fri, 22 Mar 2002 09:07:27 -0800 (PST) From: Zack Steinkamp <edsarkiss@yahoo.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] 245s on 8.5s up front? --- "Dorffer, Rich" <RDORFFER@CleIndians.com> wrote: > If you hydroplane, do you want the front to lose > traction, or the rear??? when does hydroplaning occur? when it's wet and you're driving too fast. when are you driving the fastest? on the highway. would you prefer to go straight (fronts lose traction) or spin (rears lose traction) on the highway? for the most part, highways are straight. i prefer to go straight. a spinning car is very difficult to avoid in the rain, particularly when people drive too closely as it is. play it safe. go by the numbers. keep good rubber on the rear. and don't drive fast on bald tires! zs __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Movies - coverage of the 74th Academy Awards(r) http://movies.yahoo.com/
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#2. Re: [E36M3] Euro lights - from Reid Conti
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Date: Fri, 22 Mar 2002 09:17:15 -0800 (PST) From: Reid Conti <reid@conti.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Euro lights > Can I safely upgrade the 7.5 amp fuse for the headlights to 10 amps to > prevent blowing the fuses regularly if I run 100 watt bulbs? > > Had the euros in for 1 week and already blew 1 fuse with the 100 w. highs. > > Thanks. Funny. I ran 100's in my euros (low and high) and they weren't any brighter, but I didn't change fuses or wiring. If you want to run the 100's put in upgraded wiring/fuses/relays. - reid
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#3. Re: [E36M3] R-Compounds: Appropriate? - from Vern Anderson
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Date: Fri, 22 Mar 2002 12:10:03 -0500 From: "Vern Anderson" <vernon_anderson@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] R-Compounds: Appropriate? Jonathan, I have done a lot of laps on street tires, Yoko AO32R's and Hoosiers. I would recommend almost anyone to go with AO32R's unless you are racing. The Yoko's are basically a very durable street tire. In most respects they behave just like a high-performance street tire, but stand up to abuse better. They behave very similar at the limit (they provide tactile and audible feedback), get greasy when they're too hot to remind you that you're overdriving and they have enough tread at first to give you some damp track capability. I actually think they are safer than street tires BECAUSE they go away much more gradually/predictably when hot. When you get a Pilot of BFG KD really hot, the damn things are too squirrelly for my tastes. I went to Yoko's after my third school, primarily because I was damaging my street tires. I think they are an excellent choice for someone (2-4+ schools maybe) who is starting to go fast enough to question street tires. Plus you can drive on them on the street if you have to. I know some guys locally here who use them as street tires (they would be too noisy for me) and get 6-8k out of them in normal street driving. Vern Anderson Not a Yoko salesman, although I may sound like one..... -------------------- 10 -------------------- Date: Fri, 22 Mar 2002 08:34:50 -0800 From: "twisty M3" <twistym3@hotmail.com> Subject: [E36M3] R-Compounds: Appropriate? Just curious as to the general consensus on when it's an "appropriate" time to switch to r-compounds for track use. While it's true that you can learn more on street rubber, burning through street tires isn't really a wise economic choice for me at this point. It's hard to even rationalize putting a good chunk of money up front for a seperate set of wheels, until I think about how much more life I can get on the street. I'm in the midst of looking for track wheels, but starting to question whether it's "time" or not. I plan on doing several schools per year now, and the idea of having dedicated track wheels/tires just seems to makes sense. I also couldn't see wasting money by having two sets of street tires, so r-compounds (Toyos or Yoks) sound like a smarter choice... and quite a bit more fun. ;) Any opinions on the matter? Jonathan L.
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#4. RE: [E36M3] 245s on 8.5s up front? / Aquaplaning - from Dorffer, Rich
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Date: Fri, 22 Mar 2002 12:13:58 -0500 From: "Dorffer, Rich" <RDORFFER@CleIndians.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] 245s on 8.5s up front? / Aquaplaning Dan writes > > a former tire engineer on the UUC digest (Gary Derian) also recommends tires > with better tread on the rear for wet conditions. i don't think oversteer > in dry conditions is quite the same as different traction (front/rear) > through water. my only bad water experience was in a p*ntiac grand am (POS > edition) so i don't think much of that carries over to a rear-drive BMW. Hence, my original reference to Gary D on my initial response. Gary used to live near me and we regularly discussed various topics (including retrofitting fuel injection from some late model Mercedes to a Chevy Vega when he was in college, IIRC, in the 70's), this was one of them. I also know a few tires engineers at Goodyear Tire & Rubber, one that used to work the F1 circuit. I myself deal with finance issues so I have to rely on what I am told by them. FWD or RWD, POS edition Pontiac or LTW M3, makes little or no difference in what we are discussing really. Regards, Rich - Former owner of Pontiac Grand Prix GTP (right before the beginning of the sickness) 95 M3 - first BMW purchase, no turning back, sold the GTP pronto.
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#5. RE: [E36M3] 245s on 8.5s up front? - from Wesley A. Nicolas
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Date: Fri, 22 Mar 2002 12:18:14 -0500 From: "Wesley A. Nicolas" <wes@nicolas.org> Subject: RE: [E36M3] 245s on 8.5s up front? Agreed. As a Porsche Club Instructor, I am not claiming to be a good driver or anything, but instead have found with my valuable skidpad experience that controlling understeer is a lot easier to do than controlling oversteer. To control the understeer in the rain, simple vehicle dynamics will tell you to ease up on the gas a *little* bit, and decrease your steering wheel input because the slip angle of the front wheels is too high. Voila! You're out of the corner with no drama. However, if you're ready for the oversteer and can anticipate it's arrival, it's not a big deal. That's what gets most people, they're not ready for the oversteer and it stings them. I can remember the rainy day I picked up my 944 Turbo from the shop after getting a 6 point full roll cage installed (makes for a VERY stiff chassis!)......I punched the gas a little too much around a turn and my eyes opened wide as I had to quickly apply some opposite lock. Wes >Most drivers (this may not include highly skilled drivers >such as Michael) will need to avoid the rear end sliding >around more than the car pushing some. How many here (better >drivers than average I assume) had less bad things happen, on >the track or the street, when the front of their car pushed in >a corner versus the rear stepping out considerably on them. >Come on, let's see a raise of hands. That's what I thought.
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#6. Re: [E36M3] R-Compounds: Appropriate? - from Geof McLaughlin
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Date: Fri, 22 Mar 2002 12:31:16 -0500 From: Geof McLaughlin <gfmiiilist@usa.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] R-Compounds: Appropriate? IMHO, I would say if you have to ask that question, then it is not time yet. The time to switch to R-compound tires is when the tires are constraining you from going faster rather than continually improving your driving abilities. Also, if you are really burning through street tires too much due to sliding the cars turns, that's another indication of the time to switch (as opposed to wearing out tires fast due to bad driving technique). Geof At 10:43 AM 3/22/02 -0600, twisty M3 wrote: >Just curious as to the general consensus on when it's an "appropriate" >time to switch to r-compounds for track use. (snip) >Any opinions on the matter?
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#7. Re:FS Strut Brace fits 4 Door Only - from Vince Throckmorton
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Date: Fri, 22 Mar 2002 12:09:55 -0600 From: Vince Throckmorton <vince@rjthrockmorton.com> Subject: Re:FS Strut Brace fits 4 Door Only BMP Srut brace, fits any 4 door e36 with or without TC, NEW $200, need room in the garage $75 + shipping. Vince Throckmorton 01 330i, 98 318i, 82 R100T
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#8. Re: R-Compounds: Appropriate? - from Peter Fanning
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Date: Fri, 22 Mar 2002 10:13:28 -0800 From: Peter Fanning <p.fanning@verizon.net> Subject: Re: R-Compounds: Appropriate? I switched from street to track tires and wheels when I nearly wore a set of street tires in one day at the track. If you're approaching this I'd say get dedicated track wheels. I think you save money in the long run. Track tires last longer and you don't have to have $200 top-o-the-line street tires anymore because you have something better for the track where you have fun. I've used Kumho and Yoko r-compounds and find they still communicate well and allow you to slide them around (I prefer the Kumho's). The slide/spin window is probably smaller but if you're controlling medium to high speed under and oversteer on street tires you should do fine on r-compounds. As for wheels (probably your next question), if I were in the market today I'd buy the SSR Comp's, light, strong and cheaper than Fikse or BBS. Peter Fanning '98 M3/4 Street, Track and Snow wheel/tire sets, the car has more shoes than I do. At 10:53 AM 3/22/2002 -0600, you wrote: >Date: Fri, 22 Mar 2002 08:34:50 -0800 >From: "twisty M3" <twistym3@hotmail.com> >Subject: [E36M3] R-Compounds: Appropriate? > >Just curious as to the general consensus on when it's an "appropriate" time >to switch to r-compounds for track use. While it's true that you can learn >more on street rubber, burning through street tires isn't really a wise >economic choice for me at this point. It's hard to even rationalize putting >a good chunk of money up front for a seperate set of wheels, until I think >about how much more life I can get on the street. > >I'm in the midst of looking for track wheels, but starting to question >whether it's "time" or not. I plan on doing several schools per year now, >and the idea of having dedicated track wheels/tires just seems to makes >sense. I also couldn't see wasting money by having two sets of street >tires, so r-compounds (Toyos or Yoks) sound like a smarter choice... and >quite a bit more fun. ;) > >Any opinions on the matter? > >Jonathan L.
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#9. RE: [E36M3] Euro lights - from jim.bassett@alloptic.com
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Date: Fri, 22 Mar 2002 10:15:52 -0800 From: jim.bassett@alloptic.com Subject: RE: [E36M3] Euro lights > Can I safely upgrade the 7.5 amp fuse for the headlights to 10 amps to > prevent blowing the fuses regularly if I run 100 watt bulbs? Yes, that's SOP (Standard Operating Procedure) when running 100W bulbs. Cheers, Jim Bassett
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#10. RE: [E36M3] 245s on 8.5s up front? - from Reid Conti
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Date: Fri, 22 Mar 2002 10:29:57 -0800 (PST) From: Reid Conti <reid@conti.net> Subject: RE: [E36M3] 245s on 8.5s up front? Have you guys ever hydroplaned before? Your car WANTS to go straight. There is drag on the rear tires when on the highway. You start spinning your rears, and you'll (basically) keep going straight. IF you start to get a tiny bit sideways, LET OFF THE GAS and your car will straighten out. This is on the highway, again. Also, your fronts "push" water out of the way for your rears. I think keeping your good tread on the rear is sound advice, but if you only drive on the highway and your only concern is hydroplaning, I think you'd be safer with good rubber on the front. It takes a pretty talented individual to spin a car going in a straight line. - reid > --- "Dorffer, Rich" <RDORFFER@CleIndians.com> wrote: > > If you hydroplane, do you want the front to lose > > traction, or the rear??? > > when does hydroplaning occur? when it's wet and > you're driving too fast. > > when are you driving the fastest? on the highway. > > would you prefer to go straight (fronts lose traction) > or spin (rears lose traction) on the highway? for the > most part, highways are straight. i prefer to go > straight. a spinning car is very difficult to avoid > in the rain, particularly when people drive too > closely as it is. > > play it safe. go by the numbers. keep good rubber on > the rear. > > and don't drive fast on bald tires!
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#11. RE: [E36M3] Installing Turner Wheel Studs - from Robert S. Hatrak II
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Date: Fri, 22 Mar 2002 10:21:32 -0800 From: "Robert S. Hatrak II" <hatrak@ix.netcom.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Installing Turner Wheel Studs What are those gray "splotches" on those rotors in between the threaded mounting holes? Was something applied, or did this set of rotors come like that? Mine are clean metal all the way around. Curious, Rob -----Original Message----- No personal experience, but a friend of mine did the conversion along with a write up here: http://geocities.com/bmwpm3/studs.htm Not sure if they're the same wheel studs, but they'd have to be close, I'd imagine. Jonathan L.
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#12. RE: [E36M3] Installing Turner Wheel Studs - from jim.bassett@alloptic.com
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Date: Fri, 22 Mar 2002 10:21:05 -0800 From: jim.bassett@alloptic.com Subject: RE: [E36M3] Installing Turner Wheel Studs > Has anybody installed the wheel stud conversion from Turner? > They came > without directions so I am assuming that I need to apply some > red loctite > and double nut them to install. I figure I need to torque > them to at least > 90 lb-ft, if not more. The race car has the studs from Turner (now if I could just get one of the Turner studs to drive for me :-)), installed by the previous owner. Anyway, I checked them all a month or so ago, and this is what I & my mechanic did. Using 2 nuts on each stud so that they lock against one another, use the outer-most one to tighten the stud. Basically tighten it until it doesn't tighten anymore. I guess you could use red Loctite, but we didn't. I haven't had a problem over many wheel swaps so far <knock on wood> Another option would be to call Turner & ask them what the installation procedure is :-) Cheers, Jim Bassett 1998 M3/4 1993 325is #44 KP