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#1. RE: Aquaplaning, etc - from D Snyder
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Date: Fri, 22 Mar 2002 16:36:46 -0800 From: "D Snyder" <m3ltw@msn.com> Subject: RE: Aquaplaning, etc I agree with the theory that having your rear tires losing traction is more likely to cause a spin than the front (hence the first ABS systems were often just on the rear). What many people seem to miss on this topic is that in most rain-driving situations, the FRONT tires displace the water for the rear tires, which follow in "their tracks." So, unless it is a sharp turn (and why would you be going fast if it's sharp?), your rear tires should have a hard time hydroplaning unless the fronts are already doing it (including under braking)? Hence, I would rather have the good tires on my front. Honestly, though, this is a stupid topic. Buy NEW tires if they're worn enough to be an issue. Dan
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#2. Kunho Ecsta V700 data point - from David Hogg
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Date: Sat, 23 Mar 2002 07:26:59 -0800 From: "David Hogg" <springwood@blazenet.net> Subject: Kunho Ecsta V700 data point Just tried the above (shaved) yesterday for the first time using 28 psi cold all around (which I'm not convinced is the right pressure for these BTW) at Summit's FATT. BIG improvement in feel and solidity over the Victo's. The feel is very progressive; off-line slides are very predictable - no moist undies. All 4 survived in very good condition, though I did rotate left side F to R halfway through the day. I was not a big fan of the Victo's, being of the "you get what you pay for" mindset. That's just how they felt to me. If I had more confidence in my middle-aged memory, I'd say these Ecsta's feel a whole lot like the original BFG R-1's (though unlike the old R1's they do need some neg camber). Heresy? Perhaps not... Dave Hogg
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#3. "lightweight" E46M3 Available - from Don Chaney
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Date: Sat, 23 Mar 2002 13:31:17 -0600 From: "Don Chaney" <chaneydon@hotmail.com> Subject: "lightweight" E46M3 Available Today I was out at Anderson Motors in Crystal Lake, IL helping a friend shop for a new M3. They have a brand new carbon metallic black M3 with SMG and Xenon lights. This car has no sunroof, cloth insert manual seats, no cd changer. Car was built 1/02 and has 8 miles on it. List price is 51,100 but they are anxious to sell this car and will take less. FYI in case anyone cares. Don 95M3
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#4. OK need groups opinion - from HYPERM3@aol.com
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Date: Sat, 23 Mar 2002 15:56:12 EST From: HYPERM3@aol.com Subject: OK need groups opinion Hey all, With all the talk about forced induction I need to get some input. Back in Nov 99 I had dealt directly with Osh in purchasing one of the first Vortech systems for OBDII M3. I installed it completely myself and everything ran good. To preface, I had Jim C programming which Osh said I needed to get undone because the mapping for the upgraded fuel injectors would be off. So, I had it reprogrammed back to stock. Osh said that the included Air/Fuel controller would take care of everything. Needless to say my car has ran either very well or like crap for the past few years, never consistent. Sometimes to the point where it stalls out frequently at a stop. Well, obviously the car does need programming, considering the fact that most systems include some type (including RMS) now in their kits. When I called Osh a few months ago, he said it would cost me whatever amount to have it programmed for my kit. What I need the digests opinion on is..do I expect my DME to be reprogrammed for free because it should have been included in my original purchase and the fact its ran like crap. Or do I just go somewhere else and have it programmed instead. If so, where do I go>? I know Jim C doesn't like doing programming for RMS, and would AA know anything about the mapping for a supercharger. Do I just send it to Dinan considering its basically the same kit? All responses will be appreciated. Thanks, Alex "HyperM3" Demsky 97 S/C M3 34k/odo
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#5. Lower Strut Camber Shims - from Chris Teague
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Date: Sat, 23 Mar 2002 16:36:40 -0800 From: "Chris Teague" <cteague@cox.net> Subject: Lower Strut Camber Shims Anyone know of a good source for camber shims for the lower front strut mount? I am looking for just a little more front camber for testing purposes. How thick of a shim has anyone used before getting a longer bolt? Any good source for longer bolts? Ideally, I would like to find some very thin shims so that I can experiment. Thanks, Chris 97 M3
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#6. suspension bushing replacing - from James McKenna
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Date: Sat, 23 Mar 2002 22:38:47 -0500 From: James McKenna <shutupkid@comcast.net> Subject: suspension bushing replacing hey guys I will be installed hr coilovers on my 95 m3 tomorrow and would like to replace any worn bushings. which bushings are most likely to be worn out at 67k miles? I've herd the rear trailing arm bushings are the first to go and decided to replace with stock.. now is there an improved version of this RTB on the 96-99's that I should use? and I think I remember hearing about using GC reinforcement plates on these, is this true? if so how much do they run? how many are needed? and where can I find them? thanks in advance -james
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#7. Re: [E36M3] suspension bushing replacing - from Chris Teague
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Date: Sat, 23 Mar 2002 19:56:58 -0800 From: "Chris Teague" <cteague@cox.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] suspension bushing replacing James, The Ground-Control rear control arm "shims" are $60 from www.ground-control.com for the set of 4 that are needed. They are spacers that go on the outside of the stock control arm bushing (which is a good idea to repace) Chris ----- Original Message ----- From: "James McKenna" <shutupkid@comcast.net> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Saturday, March 23, 2002 7:43 PM Subject: [E36M3] suspension bushing replacing > hey guys I will be installed hr coilovers on my 95 m3 tomorrow and would > like to replace any worn bushings. which bushings are most likely to be > worn out at 67k miles? I've herd the rear trailing arm bushings are the > first to go and decided to replace with stock.. now is there an improved > version of this RTB on the 96-99's that I should use? and I think I > remember hearing about using GC reinforcement plates on these, is this > true? if so how much do they run? how many are needed? and where can I > find them? thanks in advance -james
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#8. Need Parts Help - from Bill P
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Date: Sun, 24 Mar 2002 03:47:24 -0500 From: "Bill P" <billpanop@suscom.net> Subject: Need Parts Help If anyone out there has a parts CD I need some help. My car is a 1995 ///M3. I am looking for the part numbers of two sensors. Both clip on into the brake ducts. One on the right brake duct and the other on the left. The one looks like a small probe with a long end sticking out (temp sensor???) and the other is a flat circular thing (????). Also if you can get me part number for the connector for the factory fog lights it would be awesome. Thank You in advance. Bill P
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#9. [OT]: SF / Bay Area Car Phone Installers? - from Andrew E. Kalman
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Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 09:34:08 -0800 From: "Andrew E. Kalman" <aek@pumpkininc.com> Subject: [OT]: SF / Bay Area Car Phone Installers? Hi All. Can anyone recommend a place in or near San Francisco that does first-class work installing / integrating car phones into late-model cars? My wife's boss bought a SAAB (no comments, please) and is very unhappy with the system (OnStar + other stuff) as-delivered, and is hoping that there may be something better in the aftermarket. Thanks, -- ______________________________________ Andrew E. Kalman, Ph.D. aek@pumpkininc.com
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#10. aluminum flywheel - drawbacks? (long) - from Chris Papademetrious
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Date: Sun, 24 Mar 2002 16:12:56 -0500 From: Chris Papademetrious <chrispitude@yahoo.com> Subject: aluminum flywheel - drawbacks? (long) I'd like to solicit some feedback from those who may have some insight into lightweight flywheels and M3s. I just picked up my 95 M3 from my mechanic, where it had an Inspection II done, as well as the installation of a lightweight flywheel (and accompanying throwout bearing) from Rogue Engineering. For the clutch, we simply put in a new factory BMW M3 clutch. In my online research, most people seem to choose this combination, and nobody has indicated any issues. The only drawbacks I've read about are that the car can be easier to stall if you're not careful, and you'll hear flywheel rattle when the car comes to a stop. No sweat. Well, I did notice a little bit of mechanical noise at idle - totally tolerable. What I was not expecting was the amount of drivetrain noise that gets transmitted to the entire car under 3000rpm! I have to say that the car feels very un-BMW-like under 3000rpm. The mellow burble of the factory exhaust is drowned by vibrations and resonances transmitted through the frame of the car, and through the gear shifter. Aside from the frame vibration, a lot of the actual audible noise seems to be coming from the shifter itself. I'm not sure if this is because the shifter is vibrating and radiating the sound, or if it's just coming up through the driveshaft tunnel through the shift boot from the drivetrain. In any case, I can't stand it and it sucks. Yeah I could drive the car above 3000rpm all the time and that would get rid of the worst resonances, but it's still buzzy above that. Various interior panels in the car sound off as the tach sweeps and things hit their resonance point. Great if this is your race car, but this car isn't. This car is supposed to be my quiet, soothing daily driver. I already have another project car that makes me replace my fillings, and I don't want to start building a second one. For what it's worth, the vibrational characteristics of my other car did not change a single bit when going from the stock 22lb flywheel to an 11lb lightweight flywheel. On that car, both flywheels were solid and the clutch is sprung. I've ridden in two other (non-BMW) cars which have had light flywheels put in, and none of them had any worse vibration characteristics than factory. Has anyone else noticed this? I have to wonder if no one else has said anything because I'm the only M3 owner who still has the stock exhaust. I've deliberately kept the factory exhaust so far because I didn't want a loud, droning aftermarket exhaust in my primary highway/road trip car. With the flywheel and solid clutch, I want to sell my car every time I drive it now. Would moving to a sprung clutch disc solve this issue? How much engine output does it take to actually fully compress the springs on your average sprung clutch assembly? Are we talking just the 5hp it takes to sustain cruising speed, the 20hp it takes to gradually add speed, or full engine output? Even when barely goosing the gas at 2200rpm with this combo, I get a really nasty resonance throughout the entire car. I'm not trying to pass people in 5th gear at 2200rpm, but it would sure be nice not to have to downshift every time I go up a very slight grade. So my options are, put a factory flywheel back in, or put a sprung clutch disc in. I'd prefer the clutch if it will mostly solve the problem, since I love the ease of double-downshifting and rowing through gears on the twisties with the flywheel! Suggestions? - Chris