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#1. OK need groups opinion - from Paul Elliott
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Date: Sun, 24 Mar 2002 17:57:44 -0500 From: "Paul Elliott" <elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net> Subject: OK need groups opinion Hi Alex, >>I installed it completely myself and everything ran good. To preface, I had Jim C programming << You mean, it ran will with the JC software And your new at the time RMS SC kit? >>So, I had it reprogrammed back to stock. Osh said that the included Air/Fuel controller would take care of everything. << What is this 'Air/Fuel controller' that youre talking about? Is it separate and apart from the RMS SC software? You make no mention of the RMS software, and unless thats what you mean by this AF controller, it looks from your writing that you programmed it back to stock and left it stock to control your SC kit. >>Well, obviously the car does need programming, considering the fact that most systems include some type (including RMS) now in their kits. << And from this statement, it appears that , yes, youve been running Stock OE software with your SC...No wonder it ran badly...If it ran so well with the JC software, why dont you put it back? >>When I called Osh a few months ago, he said it would cost me whatever amount to have it programmed for my kit. << Again, Im not sure if Im reading you right, but if your RMS kit came without any software as part of the bundle, then yes, Id say you should expect to pay for it, especially if this is a feature what was later included with the kit, although absent when you bought it...If you had issues with the kit initially, since its almost 3 yrs ago, I would have advised you to have taken care of it then...If I were Osh, Id probably have said that also. >>..do I expect my DME to be reprogrammed for free because it should have been included in my original purchase and the fact its ran like crap<< If it were included originally, Id say you should have taken care of it at the time....Why wait 3 years? And if it wasnt included with the kit, then why expect to get something for nothing? That's just how it appears to me....Although its quite possible I've misread the events as youve described them. Paul Elliott --------------------------------------------------------- '99 White M3; < 40K miles; Dinan stage II SC kit with 6" RMS crank pulley: 11 psi; AA Water Injection; Rotex pads;X-Brace; Dinan Koni Suspension; Stygar SS and Clutch Stop; Sound by Polk, Excelon, JLAudio
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#2. Re: Camber Shims - from NSimon1111@aol.com
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Date: Sun, 24 Mar 2002 17:57:44 EST From: NSimon1111@aol.com Subject: Re: Camber Shims Chris - I have some camber shims (hardened washers and longer bolts) that I bought last year from Korman and never used (instead swapping strut hats to get more camber). As I recall, they cost around $35 and I'd be willing to sell them for a bit less. Contact me offline if you're interested. Neil Wash, DC 99 M Coupe
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#3. Re:[E36M3]Light Flywheel - from RogRacer@aol.com
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Date: Sun, 24 Mar 2002 19:55:58 EST From: RogRacer@aol.com Subject: Re:[E36M3]Light Flywheel Chris, There was a survey going around on bimmerforums regarding lightweight flywheels on the E36 M3. If I recall correctly, 70% of respondents reported extra noise and vibration at either idle or low-mid range rpms. You may want to check it out, but I gather your experience is pretty common. Several people switched back to stock for this reason. -Roger RogRacer@aol.com '95 M3...stock flywheel and likely to stay that way.
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#4. aluminum flywheel - drawbacks? - from RacerxJLing@aol.com
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Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 03:22:14 EST From: RacerxJLing@aol.com Subject: aluminum flywheel - drawbacks? I have a 95 M3 w/ RMS SC and Turner ltw flywheel. The flywheel rattles at idle (tolerable to me) but has no "resonation" whatsoever at any rpm. Did u check w/ the maker of the flywheel? (Rogue Engineering?) My car is also my daily driver...no real noise issues tho :-) BTW, I've had it on the car for 35k miles or so. Jeff << Date: Sun, 24 Mar 2002 16:12:56 -0500 From: Chris Papademetrious <chrispitude@yahoo.com> Subject: aluminum flywheel - drawbacks? (long) I'd like to solicit some feedback from those who may have some insight into lightweight flywheels and M3s. I just picked up my 95 M3 from my mechanic, where it had an Inspection II done, as well as the installation of a lightweight flywheel (and accompanying throwout bearing) from Rogue Engineering. For the clutch, we simply put in a new factory BMW M3 clutch. In my online research, most people seem to choose this combination, and nobody has indicated any issues. The only drawbacks I've read about are that the car can be easier to stall if you're not careful, and you'll hear flywheel rattle when the car comes to a stop. No sweat. Well, I did notice a little bit of mechanical noise at idle - totally tolerable. What I was not expecting was the amount of drivetrain noise that gets transmitted to the entire car under 3000rpm! I have to say that the car feels very un-BMW-like under 3000rpm. The mellow burble of the factory exhaust is drowned by vibrations and resonances transmitted through the frame of the car, and through the gear shifter. Aside from the frame vibration, a lot of the actual audible noise seems to be coming from the shifter itself. I'm not sure if this is because the shifter is vibrating and radiating the sound, or if it's just coming up through the driveshaft tunnel through the shift boot from the drivetrain. In any case, I can't stand it and it sucks. Yeah I could drive the car above 3000rpm all the time and that would get rid of the worst resonances, but it's still buzzy above that. Various interior panels in the car sound off as the tach sweeps and things hit their resonance point. Great if this is your race car, but this car isn't. This car is supposed to be my quiet, soothing daily driver. I already have another project car that makes me replace my fillings, and I don't want to start building a second one. For what it's worth, the vibrational characteristics of my other car did not change a single bit when going from the stock 22lb flywheel to an 11lb lightweight flywheel. On that car, both flywheels were solid and the clutch is sprung. I've ridden in two other (non-BMW) cars which have had light flywheels put in, and none of them had any worse vibration characteristics than factory. Has anyone else noticed this? I have to wonder if no one else has said anything because I'm the only M3 owner who still has the stock exhaust. I've deliberately kept the factory exhaust so far because I didn't want a loud, droning aftermarket exhaust in my primary highway/road trip car. With the flywheel and solid clutch, I want to sell my car every time I drive it now. Would moving to a sprung clutch disc solve this issue? How much engine output does it take to actually fully compress the springs on your average sprung clutch assembly? Are we talking just the 5hp it takes to sustain cruising speed, the 20hp it takes to gradually add speed, or full engine output? Even when barely goosing the gas at 2200rpm with this combo, I get a really nasty resonance throughout the entire car. I'm not trying to pass people in 5th gear at 2200rpm, but it would sure be nice not to have to downshift every time I go up a very slight grade. So my options are, put a factory flywheel back in, or put a sprung clutch disc in. I'd prefer the clutch if it will mostly solve the problem, since I love the ease of double-downshifting and rowing through gears on the twisties with the flywheel! Suggestions? - Chris >>
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#5. LTW flywheel/noises - from bmwm3nut@att.net
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Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 14:29:38 +0000 From: bmwm3nut@att.net Subject: LTW flywheel/noises Hi Chris, I had my LTW flywheel and OEM Sach clutch kit installed about 3 months ago and here my experiences: There is quiet a bit more drive line noises now, The tranny does rattle pretty bad,(louder if you are standing outside by the right door than the left) even worst than my E30 M3 with the LTW flywheel on that. BUT the E30 M3 never came with the dual mass flywheel so going from a single mass to the LTW doesn't seem so bad. NOw for the E36 M3, from the dual to LTW is a BIG difference. The tranny rattles very loud @ idle. Turner has a specail chip burned by JC that raise the idle slightly to DECREASE BUT NOT eliminate the rattle (also helps with clutch slippage needed to start from light or with a/c on). He has a chip just for the LTW flywheel AND the Euro HFM together too, that what I am going to install next week.(got all the parts together now, I have to do some baseline accel. runs with my G-tech so I can do a before and after) The LTW FW also causes the tranny to resonate @ 2000 rpm BUT on my car, the resonance is gone after 2200 RPM. This only happens IF I lug the engine: ie: use too much throttle/torque to move the car below 2200rpm. I use to be able to go from 1500 rpm smoothly in 4th gear, NO MORE. I have to be real gentle with the throttle tip in and not too much @ 1 time or the engine/tranny will rattle like crazy all thru the car. Sounds like the car is going to fall apart!!! This really doesn't bother me as I am use to shifting/higher RPM from my E30 m3. Higher revs don't matter to me. I installed a UUC street EVO shifter @ the same time as the LTW FW so my shifter is nice and tight. In fact I love the shifter now so I am constantly downshifting. To me (my opinion) THe rattle/tranny noise and no more lugging the engine is small dis-advantage compare to the way the engine ZINGs up to redline. I am a E30 m3 guy so how fast it reaches redline is more important than the noises. The Turner chip may help you in the idle/tranny noise and also the little more clutch slippage you need to start off from a light. The 2000 rpm issue, I don't think it can be solved as long as you have the LTW FW, I would just go to another gear. Added benefit is that you can throttle steer. I also installed a very nice HKS Kluss exhuast on my car, it about 25% louder than stock, not droing, nothing like a B+B,AA,UUC BUT it adds just the right amount of burbble and sound. I can actually hear the exhaust/engine NOW yehaaaaaa. I can actually hear and feel the the car!!!!! -- Tim Ng 95 YELA/BUZZN/M3 92 325ic M-Tech "ULTIMATE TANNING MACHINE" 91///M3 "SUNNY DAY CAR" 88///M3 "TRACK CAR" SICK ENGINE
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#6. Re: aluminum flywheel - drawbacks? (long) - from Ron Buchalski
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Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 14:53:58 +0000 From: "Ron Buchalski" <rbuchals@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: aluminum flywheel - drawbacks? (long) Chris, Check the engine mounts and transmission mounts to make sure everything's in good condition and all bolts are tight. Maybe something's broken. You shouldn't have that much vibration. -rb >Date: Sun, 24 Mar 2002 16:12:56 -0500 >From: Chris Papademetrious <chrispitude@yahoo.com> >Subject: aluminum flywheel - drawbacks? (long) > >I'd like to solicit some feedback from those who may have some insight into >lightweight flywheels and M3s. > <snip> _________________________________________________________________ MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
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#7. RE: Aquaplaning, etc - from Dorffer, Rich
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Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 10:30:12 -0500 From: "Dorffer, Rich" <RDORFFER@CleIndians.com> Subject: RE: Aquaplaning, etc My last post on this 'stupid' topic. You are giving too much credence to the amount of water the front tires displace and you don't have to go around a sharp turn to have the rear tires go in a different track than the front tires. Once they move a little outside of the front track, all bets are off. If the front tires are unable to displace the water effectively (not uncommon in the rain with the type of tires we are discussing), the rears will have a really hard time with even less tread. Also, it is not uncommon on any of our cars to have more worn tires on one axle than the other (75% tread and 25% tread) before one wants to or needs to buy new tires. To each their own and my opinions are worth what you paid for, nothing I guess ;-) Regards, Rich 95 M3 - With the full tread spare on the left rear and nearly disposable on the other three corners right now (temporary people, give me a break)
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#8. Larger injectors for 1995 M3 - from Dorffer, Rich
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Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 10:31:17 -0500 From: "Dorffer, Rich" <RDORFFER@CleIndians.com> Subject: Larger injectors for 1995 M3 Has anyone here inserted larger injectors (say ~22.5 lbs) into their 1995 M3 (which are ~19.5 lbs. IIRC) without doing cams? What was your experience? What was your set-up or did you make any programming changes to the computer? I understand that ODBI can adjust (timing, etc.) for the slightly more fuel and with the JC Intake and EURO HFM, I was wondering if the additional fuel can be taken advantage of. I am sure the car could potentially run too rich if ODBI can't adjust enough and you would end up wasting fuel but I don't think this is true with just the minor increase I am proposing. Any thoughts and direct personal experience would be grateful. Too bad Jim C is gone from this list, this would be his 'cup-of-tea'. Best regards, Rich 95 M3 - Wondering allowed if it could benefit from slightly higher flow fuel injectors without cams.
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#9. Brembo Rotors - from JUSTIN GERRY
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Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 10:47:50 -0500 From: "JUSTIN GERRY" <JGERRY@butchers.com> Subject: Brembo Rotors Who has the Brembos cheap? I need a set of track rotors for my PF-97s. Thanks, Justin -- '76 02 (Whimsical) '97 M3 (Orion) BMW CCA#77056 check out http://users.vei.net/jgerry
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#10. Loosing Coolant - Bad Head Gasket? - from morris.michael@adlittle.com
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Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 10:50:57 -0500 From: morris.michael@adlittle.com Subject: Loosing Coolant - Bad Head Gasket? Hello List, My car can't seem to hold any coolant. I keep adding more, and then the next time I start it up (cold) the reservoir is almost empty. History: -New radiator, hoses, water pump, last week. -Radiator neck broke 2 weeks ago on the highway and temp needle never hit the red, but got awful close. -I have bled the system a couple of times. Temp stays in the middle, and heat into the cabin is constant if the heat is on. Symptoms: -Oil looks fine (no sign of coolant in it). -At start-up, I get a few bubbles into the reservoir. -Something else interesting, when I have the bleed screw off, and give the car a little gas, coolant shoots up out of the hole. I don't recall this happening before when I swapped my water pump for the first time. -No leaks. -No white smoke out of exhaust. -Occasionally, I find coolant around the fill cap, especially after some spirited driving. (Email archives have indicated that this is a good sign of a bad head gasket). I am going to continue to try and bleed the system some more, but in the meantime, is there anything that I can do to diagnose a bad head gasket besides what I have mentioned above? Hopefully something easier than a compression and/or leakdown test? Thanks everyone. Regards, Mike Morris **** This is intended for the addressee only and may contain confidential business information. It may not be copied without our permission. If you are not the intended recipient, please contact the sender as soon as possible and delete the material from any computer.****
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#11. Sunroof rattle BE GONE - from Michael Schaublin
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Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 10:50:50 -0500 From: "Michael Schaublin" <mike_schaublin@hotmail.com> Subject: Sunroof rattle BE GONE Finally tracked down some of the more annoying rattles in my sunroof. I found 3 culprits. The two torx fasteners at the front of each slide rail had worked very loose, allowing the cable guide to rattle over sharp bumps. The second source was the arms that connect to the air deflector and the side of the roof rail, which pull the wind deflector down as the sunroof panel moves forward. I removed these temporarily. These two changes eliminated almost all of the sunroof rattles. The deflector itself still rattles a bit when the roof is closed, even though I've covered the metal to metal contact points with velcro tape. It seems the spring isn't strong enough to hold the deflector tightly up against the roof anymore. Anyone figured out how to keep the deflector quiet when the roof is closed? Mike Quiet above _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp.