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#1. Re: [E36M3] hypothetical question - from Reid Conti
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Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 12:59:00 -0800 From: Reid Conti <reid@conti.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] hypothetical question I can't help you with the the minimized wear on the engine, but as for fuel economy.. look for a DOS program called "cartest." It will give you mpg curves for each gear on hundreds (thousands?) of cars.. of course the problem here is the results are skewed by wind resistance (ie, it shows that low speeds in a high gear are best, this does not tell us engine efficiency, just efficiency of the whole system where the system includes efficiencies that are lost with speed). - reid > If I had a continuous transmission in my car and so could select any > gear ratio I wanted how would I figure out what gear ratio to select for > optimum fuel economy at some particular speed. As an example, say I > want to go 80 mph what engine RPM would give me the best fuel economy at > that speed? As a related question, what RPM should be selected to > minimize wear on the engine? Is it the RPM at which the engine produces > the most torque? > > Thanks, > Mike Sent using the Entourage X Test Drive.
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#2. Re: [E36M3] hypothetical question - from Chris Papademetrious
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Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 16:10:22 -0500 From: Chris Papademetrious <chrispitude@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] hypothetical question At 03:03 PM 3/27/2002 -0600, Reid Conti wrote: >I can't help you with the the minimized wear on the engine, but as for fuel >economy.. look for a DOS program called "cartest." It will give you mpg >curves for each gear on hundreds (thousands?) of cars.. of course the >problem here is the results are skewed by wind resistance (ie, it shows that >low speeds in a high gear are best, this does not tell us engine efficiency, >just efficiency of the whole system where the system includes efficiencies >that are lost with speed). There are parameters in there to change wind resistance. For example, you could set the drag coefficient, or the frontal area of the car, to zero. I never thought of doing that before, but it's an interesting experiment! BTW, this is a great program. I registered awhile ago. You can find the homepage at: http://home.earthlink.net/~patglenn/ct.html - Chris
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#3. Continuation of my air compressor saga - from Robert S. Hatrak II
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Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 14:19:14 -0800 From: "Robert S. Hatrak II" <hatrak@ix.netcom.com> Subject: Continuation of my air compressor saga Hi guys. If you remember, I asked the group about moving my air compressor about a month ago. It turns out that I don't have enough room above the garage ceiling or on either side of the house to mount the entire unit. So, I'm going to have to separate the compressor from the tank. Here's the plan: 1. Separate the motor from the tank 2. Place motor outside in desired location. 3. Construct a small vented enclosure to kill some of the noise and protect the motor from the elements. 4. Plumb the motor to the tank & wire the motor. The run of plumbing will be about 65 feet. I'm planning to use 1/4 inch or 1/2 inch copper to connect the two pieces. Then the other night I was talking to a guy that helped build the local Hilton. He said that they used PVC to connect their compressor to everyplace where air was needed. The schedule 40 1/2 inch stuff is labeled to hold 480 psi. That should suffice! The problem I see with using PVC would be connecting it to the motor, which gets VERY hot after running just a little while. I'm afraid it will melt the PVC and cause a leak or even fire. So....I think I am going to have to use copper (which is about 5 times more expensive and more difficult to install because of the need to solder connections instead of simply gluing things), unless anyone has any great ideas. I imagine that running a plain air hose between the tank and compressor wouldn't be good either. Heat would probably kill that connection as well. Thanks for any tips or advice! Rob
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#4. [E36M3] Lumbar Support? - from twisty M3
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Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 14:30:57 -0800 From: "twisty M3" <twistym3@hotmail.com> Subject: [E36M3] Lumbar Support? Oh my aching back! I'm getting old... ;-) I recall reading mention of installing lumbar support in the vader seats, but I can't find any info. I've located brief statements in old digests, but no details or links. Nothing on Ron Stygars pages that I can find either. Has anyone done this, and is there a link to an install explanation? Thanks, Jonathan L. _________________________________________________________________ Join the world's largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. http://www.hotmail.com
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#5. Re: [E36M3] Continuation of my air compressor saga - from Matt Henson
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Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 14:55:28 -0800 (PST) From: Matt Henson <hensonator@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Continuation of my air compressor saga Hi, 1) Try posting a similar question on the appropriate group of the Usenet? 2) Maybe use a short length (3 ft?) of flexible steel-braided (or maybe just rubber) hose next to the compressor and use your PVC for the long run. This will be easier to install and maintain over the long haul. I'm sure that you can get the hose from Grainger, etc.. maybe: www.grainger.com/Grainger/catalogpageview.jsp?xi=xi&CatPage=2986 Good Luck! -Matt --- "Robert S. Hatrak II" <hatrak@ix.netcom.com> wrote: > > Hi guys. If you remember, I asked the group about > moving my air > compressor about a month ago. It turns out that I > don't have enough > room above the garage ceiling or on either side of > the house to mount > the entire unit. So, I'm going to have to separate > the compressor from > the tank. Here's the plan: > > > So....I think I am going to have to use copper > (which is about 5 times > more expensive and more difficult to install because > of the need to > solder connections instead of simply gluing things), > unless anyone has > any great ideas. I imagine that running a plain air > hose between the > tank and compressor wouldn't be good either. Heat > would probably kill > that connection as well. > > Thanks for any tips or advice! > > Rob __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Movies - coverage of the 74th Academy Awards(r) http://movies.yahoo.com/
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#6. RE: [E36M3] Continuation of my air compressor saga - from Mel Silva
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Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 21:02:38 -0600 From: "Mel Silva" <melsilva@mindspring.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Continuation of my air compressor saga My personal opinion is to use the copper tubing right at the compressor to dissipate the heat , then use the PVC to continue the run. You get both, heat dissipation (copper dissipates heat better than PVC) and you keep your costs in check. Mel -----Original Message----- From: Matt Henson [mailto:hensonator@yahoo.com] Sent: Wednesday, March 27, 2002 5:03 PM To: E36M3 Subject: Re: [E36M3] Continuation of my air compressor saga Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 14:55:28 -0800 (PST) From: Matt Henson <hensonator@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Continuation of my air compressor saga Hi, 1) Try posting a similar question on the appropriate group of the Usenet? 2) Maybe use a short length (3 ft?) of flexible steel-braided (or maybe just rubber) hose next to the compressor and use your PVC for the long run. This will be easier to install and maintain over the long haul. I'm sure that you can get the hose from Grainger, etc.. maybe: www.grainger.com/Grainger/catalogpageview.jsp?xi=xi&CatPage=2986 Good Luck! -Matt --- "Robert S. Hatrak II" <hatrak@ix.netcom.com> wrote: > > Hi guys. If you remember, I asked the group about > moving my air > compressor about a month ago. It turns out that I > don't have enough > room above the garage ceiling or on either side of > the house to mount > the entire unit. So, I'm going to have to separate > the compressor from > the tank. Here's the plan: > > > So....I think I am going to have to use copper > (which is about 5 times > more expensive and more difficult to install because > of the need to > solder connections instead of simply gluing things), > unless anyone has > any great ideas. I imagine that running a plain air > hose between the > tank and compressor wouldn't be good either. Heat > would probably kill > that connection as well. > > Thanks for any tips or advice! > > Rob __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Movies - coverage of the 74th Academy Awards(r) http://movies.yahoo.com/ ************************************************************* List Commands UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). To issue a command/request to the server: Send a message with the command you wish executed as the subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. *************************************************************
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#7. RE: [E36M3] hypothetical question - from Mel Silva
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Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 21:04:03 -0600 From: "Mel Silva" <melsilva@mindspring.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] hypothetical question Ok, I bit. I downloaded the demo anyway. Does anyone have the speces for the M3 that I can type into the demo version? Mel BTW, this is a great program. I registered awhile ago. You can find the homepage at: http://home.earthlink.net/~patglenn/ct.html - Chris ************************************************************* List Commands UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). To issue a command/request to the server: Send a message with the command you wish executed as the subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. *************************************************************
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#8.Where to buy a micrometer? - from Michael Schaublin
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Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 22:01:08 -0500 From: "Michael Schaublin" <mike_schaublin@hotmail.com> Subject: <OT> Where to buy a micrometer? I need a micrometer to measure the valve shims when doing valve adjustments on the 92 Ducati 900SS which will soon become a stablemate to the e36 (OBMWC). Anyone know of a micrometer source? 0-25 MM Metric is preferred, but a 0-1 inch is acceptable. Mike _________________________________________________________________ Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com
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#9. Re: [E36M3] Continuation of my air compressor saga - from Sue Kraft
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Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 21:22:49 -0600 From: Sue Kraft <suekraft@new.rr.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Continuation of my air compressor saga This is way off topic and should be moved to private email. Thanks! Suzy
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#10. [E36M3] RE: E36 rear shock mount recommendations - from LoweSeaton@aol.com
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Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 23:52:06 EST From: LoweSeaton@aol.com Subject: [E36M3] RE: E36 rear shock mount recommendations Chester, There's a fly in your ointment. :-) If you are hitting the bumpstops, then you are pushing the RSM up. The Z3 ring is on top. The Z3 ring is not doing a thing. The RSM is trying to push through the shock tower. The only time the Z3 ring comes into play is when the shock is pulling down on the RSM. That only occurs when the suspension is rapidly extending. The relative stiffness of the shocks is unimportant. What you need is stiff springs (and stiff shocks) to put much load on the Z3 ring. I'll agree with Rich. The Z3 doesn't do much good but it can't hurt. The best use for it is in conjunction with the GC RSM. You weld the studs into the ring to hold them in place for the GC RSM. I believe Ron Stygar has done the same thing with E46 M3 rear shock mounts. Lowell Seaton '95 M3 - Bilstein shocks [Who needs bumpstops with Bilsteins????]