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#1. A Squeak, a Grunt and a Crumble - from Dorffer, Rich
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Date: Fri, 29 Mar 2002 15:53:20 -0500 From: "Dorffer, Rich" <RDORFFER@CleIndians.com> Subject: A Squeak, a Grunt and a Crumble Dealers are the best place to buy replacement emblems (hood or trunk roundels, wheel roundels, etc.) IMO. I have seen emblems often sold on Ebay for more than you can get them for directly from the dealer. I would also be willing to sell you one for $25 (shipping included) if you prefer to spend more than you should. Otherwise, read on. There are a few dealers that give up to 30% off for BMW CCA mail orders, I assume you know which ones, as well as some people on this list that dabble in the parts business. The hood roundel part # is 51 14 8 132 375. It cost ~$10 - $12 IIRC when I replaced the one on my E30 325is (same exact situation you described on your 1995 M3) which was the same part # too. With respect to your question on the rear-view mirror, it turns ~90 degrees either direction at the base to snap onto the windshield mount. It seems to resist pretty good but it will pop off. I would be very interested in anything you come up with for the mirror. Here is a website you may want to peruse as well (http://www.z3mirrors.com/default.htm). Sorry I can't help with your other questions. Later, Rich - I was kidding about selling Roundel hood emblems. If you really want to spend that much, send the money to Suzy Kraft and I will send you a hood Roundel. 95 M3 89 325is
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#2. Re: [E36M3] Re: Looking for Trouble - from Robert Chay
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Date: Fri, 29 Mar 2002 15:34:41 -0600 From: Robert Chay <rchay@mindspring.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Looking for Trouble Doug, Sounds like your rear trailing arm bushings are shot. I just replaced my bushings with stock ones and installed the GC spacers. The rear feels solid. You didn't mention what size tires you're using. I left my A032's on my car for a few weeks after an autox just to see how these tires are on the street. They are much more twitchy than my street wheels. I use 225/40-18 fronts, 255/35-18 rears for my street tires on 18x8.5 wheels all around. My autox A032s are on stock forged staggered wheels (7.5 fr, 8.5 rear) 235/40-17 all around. With my street tires/wheels, it tracks straight but with the autox tires, it seems to follow the grooves in the road much more. Toe will have an effect on this as well but camber shouldn't. I run -2.2 deg camber front, -1.8 deg camber rear. Toe is set to .01" left and right fronts (.02" total), .09" left and right rear (.18" total). I don't know how this translates to minutes but spec toe is .02" to .06" front each side and ..10" to .14" rear each side. -Bobby 98 M3 ----- Original Message ----- > > Thanks for the advice Bob ... I am running +11minutes of toe on each side in > the rear and +9minutes of toe on each side in the front, in addition to > 1.75degrees of negative camber (each side) in the rear and 0.90 degrees of > negative camber (each side) in the front ... I am, as you suggest, suspecting > something else has gone off?? > > Thanks, Doug >
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#3. adjusting rear Eibach sway bar - need some help - from Mdriver13@aol.com
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Date: Fri, 29 Mar 2002 21:45:03 -0600 From: Mdriver13@aol.com Subject: adjusting rear Eibach sway bar - need some help To all...Happy Holidays and all that stuff! ...Oh and I need some help. Well, spent my day off getting the M3 ready for another autox season and thought I'd stiffen up the rear end to swing it out a little in those tight turns by adjusting the rear sway bar. No problem moving to the other hole, BUT, what is the torque spec for the bolt that holds the end link to the sway bar????? I used 40 N-m, but just a guess?? Funny, the Eibach instructions say, "use OE specs" . Well we all know there is no bolt on the OE sway bar/end link. TIA, Bob Gill 97 ///M3 coupe Philly Region SCCA AS Champion 1997 & 2000 BSP Champion 2001
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#4. Re: [E36M3] Slipping Auto Trans?? - from Carguymb@aol.com
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Date: Sat, 30 Mar 2002 06:39:56 -0600 From: Carguymb@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Slipping Auto Trans?? Chris, I've heard BMW auto-trans at this mileage are quite fragile. You may be in for a big repair, so good luck. This is pretty obvious, but sometimes the obvious gets overlooked: have you checked the fluid level and condition? Make sure it's filled to the appropriate level. If the fluid smells burned, have it flushed (there are machines that do complete fluid exchanges, but you might have to call around to find one; if there's a tranmission filter to clean/replace, do that too). You might at least be able to postpone the inevitable for a while. HTH, Martin Bullen '95 M3 '97 Z3 2.8 In a message dated 3/29/02 11:46:34 AM, e36m3@bmw-m.net writes: >Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 22:24:20 -0800 (PST) >From: Chris Salter <errsomeone@yahoo.com> >Subject: Slipping Auto Trans?? > >All, > >Could you please help me diagnose a problem with an >automatic trans, I know nothing about these. It seems >that shifting from 1->2 it will hesitate for about 3 >seconds before engaging the gear. This happens more >when the car has been sitting for awhile, and does not >happen all the time. However, this still happens when >sport mode is enabled, or manually selecting gears. > >It seems to start just fine from a start, but shifting >into the next gear the problem will occur. This also >does NOT happen on any other gear changes. > >The car has ~94k and was previously taken to the >dealer for all service, but not well taken care of >otherwise. > >I have considered the oil, but this was supose to have >been changed recently. However, I have yet to verify >this. Also, there are not any fault codes. > >Any ideas? > >Thanks - Chris
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#5. [E36M3] Installing 5- or 6-point harnesses - from Carguymb@aol.com
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Date: Sat, 30 Mar 2002 06:39:58 -0600 From: Carguymb@aol.com Subject: [E36M3] Installing 5- or 6-point harnesses I'm looking to install the 5-point harnesses I had in my previous track car into my M3 coupé. I'd prefer to minimize (preferably avoid, if possible) hole-drilling, and also need to maintain a fully functional rear seat, since it's a daily driver and occasional kid-hauler. I've been looking at the Brey-Krause harness bar as an effective way to mount the shoulder straps, and B-K also has a neat adapter for the outer lap belt that uses the factory mounting point. Any pointers on the inner lap belts and the crotch strap? For the latter, I've thought of upgrading to a 6-point setup, and sandwiching each end under the front seat track bolts, then threading the belt up through an inconspicuous slit between the seat cushion and extendable thigh support of the Vader seats. Comments and suggestions? I'm not sure what the options are for the inner belt are, though (and I want to avoid messing around with the belt tensioners, etc., until I have to). Does anybody have experience doing this to offer constructive input on how to cleanly install a safe harness setup? (BTW, please, no counseling on the harnesses without a rollbar subject. I'm aware of the arguments, but I'll accept a small increase in my personal risk to avoid an increased risk to my kids in the back from the rollbar.) TIA, Martin Bullen '95 M3 '97 Z3 2.8
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#6. Calling Chester W - from Daniel
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Date: Sat, 30 Mar 2002 08:30:10 -0600 From: Daniel <m3_driver@yahoo.com> Subject: Calling Chester W Chester, I recall some time back that you had some Dunlop 8080Es for sale... I was wondering what you were asking for those tires at the time (245/40/17???), and what condition? Thanks Daniel __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Greetings - send holiday greetings for Easter, Passover http://greetings.yahoo.com/
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#7. Re: euro HFM and injectors... - from Ron Katona
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Date: Sat, 30 Mar 2002 09:41:20 -0600 From: Ron Katona <rkatona@bellatlantic.net> Subject: Re: euro HFM and injectors... Josh wrote: > Your assessment is correct. Nice work BTW. > > Josh > > > At 10:40 AM 3/26/2002 -0500, Dorffer, Rich wrote: [...] > >- Stock injectors on a '95 M3 are 17.5lb/hr and the stock injectors on a > >'96 - '99 M3 are 21.5lb/hr (~23% greater). Is that rated at the same fuel rail pressure? I thought the '95s operated at 43.5 psi while the '96+ cars operated at 51 psi. Believe that's from the Bentley, so correct me if I'm wrong. If that's the case, the comparison would be more like 17.5 vs. 19.5 lb/hr injectors with the remaining difference in capacity being fuel pressure. At 51 psi, a 17.5 lb/hr injector originally rated at 43.5 psi would have a capacity of ~19 lb/hr. So if you have a highly stressed '95 M3 with chip, intake, Euro HFM, and exhaust that's run at the track a lot, would a switch to the '96+ fuel pressure regulator be a cheaper way to provide the extra headroom the injectors need? Understand that this would also require a custom chip, but cheaper than buying six new injectors if we could get a certain somebody to mass produce the chip <g>. -- Ron Katona
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#8. Re: euro HFM and injectors... - from Josh
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Date: Sat, 30 Mar 2002 17:42:53 -0600 From: Josh <eurosprt@xmission.com> Subject: Re: euro HFM and injectors... I am not sure if the fuel injector rating takes into consideration the fuel pressure differences (44.1psi and 51.45psi). If it does, one would think that the regulator could be a viable option. Tuning aside, there are quite a few technical details surrounding fuel injector selection like "static" and "dynamic" pressure/flow. The proper selection of injectors per application requires the infusive guidance expertise of the likes of Jim Conforti along with a fair amount of dyno time for testing and verification. However, most people are heading into cam kit or forced induction territory which requires still more fuel, so I don't know if the niche market of the Euro HFM w/ added fuel via regulator would be able to bear the cost of product development. Especially considering the fact that there would still be kit hardware and installation costs associated with purchase and installation of a fuel pressure regulator in place of the injector set. Josh www.eurosporthighperformance.com At 10:41 AM 3/30/2002 -0500, you wrote: >Josh wrote: > > Your assessment is correct. Nice work BTW. > > > > Josh > > > > > > At 10:40 AM 3/26/2002 -0500, Dorffer, Rich wrote: >[...] > > >- Stock injectors on a '95 M3 are 17.5lb/hr and the stock injectors on a > > >'96 - '99 M3 are 21.5lb/hr (~23% greater). > >Is that rated at the same fuel rail pressure? I thought the '95s >operated at 43.5 psi while the '96+ cars operated at 51 psi. Believe >that's from the Bentley, so correct me if I'm wrong. > >If that's the case, the comparison would be more like 17.5 vs. 19.5 >lb/hr injectors with the remaining difference in capacity being fuel >pressure. At 51 psi, a 17.5 lb/hr injector originally rated at 43.5 psi >would have a capacity of ~19 lb/hr. So if you have a highly stressed '95 >M3 with chip, intake, Euro HFM, and exhaust that's run at the track a >lot, would a switch to the '96+ fuel pressure regulator be a cheaper way >to provide the extra headroom the injectors need? Understand that this >would also require a custom chip, but cheaper than buying six new >injectors if we could get a certain somebody to mass produce the chip ><g>. >-- >Ron Katona
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#9. adjusting rear Eibach sway bar - need some help (post again) - from Mdriver13@aol.com
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Date: Sat, 30 Mar 2002 22:01:48 -0600 From: Mdriver13@aol.com Subject: adjusting rear Eibach sway bar - need some help (post again) To all...Happy Holidays and all that stuff! ...Oh and I need some help. Well, spent my day off getting the M3 ready for another autox season and thought I'd stiffen up the rear end to swing it out a little in those tight turns by adjusting the rear sway bar. No problem moving to the other hole, BUT, what is the torque spec for the bolt that holds the end link to the sway bar????? I used 40 N-m, but just a guess?? Funny, the Eibach instructions say, "use OE specs" . Well we all know there is no bolt on the OE sway bar/end link. TIA, Bob Gill 97 ///M3 coupe Philly Region SCCA AS Champion 1997 & 2000 BSP Champion 2001