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#1. Re: [E36M3] Big Brake Kits? - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Tue, 02 Apr 2002 18:49:43 -0800 From: Jim Bassett <jimbassett@attbi.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Big Brake Kits? At 06:10 PM 4/2/02, Mark Radelow wrote: >Date: Wed, 03 Apr 2002 02:07:32 +0000 >From: "Mark Radelow" <radelow@hotmail.com> >Subject: Re: [E36M3] Big Brake Kits? > >The general feedback I have gotten is that all the aftermarket brake kits >really are not needed for our car. I agree, especially for a combo street/track car. I tracked the M3 for ~3 years, only changing to PF90/97 for the track. Never really had a problem (minus the occasional warped rotor early on). Unfortunately, Peter has ridden in the race car, and experienced the AP Racing brakes w/Hawk Blue pads (which I'm still learning how to use effectively, BTW). I'm thinking that is in some part helping to generate the question <bg>. Having said that, if Peter (or anyone else) is looking into big brakes, check out Rogue Engineering as well. (Disclaimer: I'm a friend of Ben Liaw's and Rogue is a sponsor of my race car. Regardless of my relationship, Rogue has some good products worth checking out.) Cheers, Jim Bassett 1998 M3/4 1993 325is #44 KP
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#2.Sin City Chapter Driving School May 11-12 - from KLchmn@aol.com
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Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2002 22:28:42 EST From: KLchmn@aol.com Subject: <Misc> Sin City Chapter Driving School May 11-12 Gruppe, Now is the time to sign up for the Sin City Chapter driving school being held May 11-12, 2002. The application can be downloaded from www.sincitybmwcarclub.com Kirk Lachman Sin City Chapter
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#3. Re: [E36M3] Big Brake Kits? - from Chester Wong
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Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2002 19:30:59 -0800 (PST) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Big Brake Kits? While proper ducting, good pads and/or floating rotors might help, you have to start weighing the pros/cons. How much are a set of backing plates that accept ducts? It's unbelieveable! Also, are there any kits that allow you to turn from lock to lock without ripping out the ducts? Pads...yes, I was very happy with the PF90s but I also think that they wear faster than the larger pads of the big brake kits. Perhaps the cooling air from ducts/etc will help extend pad life. Overall, I think that if you had a car with big brakes and a stock setup, cost to continue the autox/driver school addiction is actually cheaper with the big brake kits. I think the rotors last longer, the pads last longer, and there's just a larger safety margin to not get any fade. Regardless, I think that big brake kits couldn't hurt unless you're competing and your class would forbid you to have the mod. As far as different brake kits, I haven't used the UUC kit, but it just looks like a larger cast setup similar to the stock brakes. We've done some brake work on a Olds Aurora and a Olds Cavelier and they look pretty similar...woo hoo! As far as the Rogue kit, driving in a car with this setup almost made me not even consider a big brake kit because it was scary to drive. Pedal feel was horrible. Also, the Rogue calipers were designed to be used with a 32mm thick rotor. They use the E46M3 28mm thich rotor...so right off the bat, it's like using brake pads with 2mm of material removed on each side. I still went ahead with the purchase of front and rear used Movit kits and bled them the manual way...pedal feel is absolutely awesome. The car feels well settled, pedal feel is great, modulation is great and the car just plain wants to stop. If you can find a used set for a few bucks, I'd say go for it. Chester --- Mark Radelow <radelow@hotmail.com> wrote: > The general feedback I have gotten is that all the aftermarket brake kits > really are not needed for our car. With proper brake ducting, Euro floating > rotors, and good pads you will not see better braking with another kit. I > tend to believe it as I know quite a few people running stock kits on the > track and have no braking problems whatsoever. I pounded the hell out of my > brakes at Buttonwillow and running Mintex C-Tech pads never had a hint of > fade. ===== __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Tax Center - online filing with TurboTax http://taxes.yahoo.com/
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#4. Re: [E36M3] Aquamist - from Alan Taur
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Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2002 19:39:54 -0800 From: "Alan Taur" <alantaur@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Aquamist Paul Elliot wrote: > Kit, > > >>First off, the position that AA has you mount the pump in is terrible. > The pump unprimes itself and you get a few seconds of dry pump running. > This is really bad for the pump, as well as not so good for performance.<< > > Huh? Let me just say this NEVER happens with mine, and its a standard AA > type installation. Whenever I test it, spray is IMMEDIATE...no dry running > ever have I experienced. How would you know this?!? Have you ever actually watched the spray from the end of the hose during the first run of the day, or after the car has had enough time for the pump to unprime? I would bet good money that without a check valve of some sort that there is a tangible delay in the water injection when the circuit hasn't been primed yet by a few runs. It's simple physics that dictates the flow of fluid in a circuit when there is no obstruction to flow (i.e. valve). Ever heard of a siphon? Get to know it. DId you actually install the water injection yourself? Probably not. -Alan, who has seen this all firsthand _________________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
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#5. Eibachs with Bilsteins - from AVUSM3@aol.com
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Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2002 23:03:18 EST From: AVUSM3@aol.com Subject: Eibachs with Bilsteins In a message dated 4/2/2002 10:07:14 PM Eastern Standard Time, e36m3@bmw-m.net writes: Juan - I went through a similar scenario recently. I put bilsteins on the car with H&R sports. The rear droped 1" and the front only dropped ..5". To balance it out a little I put thicker rear spring pads on top of the rear springs. The stock rubber pads are 7mm thick and the new pads (from a 2002 330Xi) are 14mm thick. They come close to matching the drop front and rear. As a footnote - below are the static spring lenghts of several different M3 springs. As you can see there is a big difference in the H&R sports vs. the Eibachs. As you can see the H&Rs are shorter in the front and longer in the rear relative to the Eibachs. I know there are some variations in spring rate between the two but I think this somewhat explains your raise in the front. BTY - I also feel the ride with the Bilsteins and H&Rs is very good. H&R Sport Eibach Pro H&R sport BMW Euro Rear (inches) 8.0 8.5 9.4 Front (inches) 11.7 10.7 12.5 John > Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2002 15:31:50 -0800 > From: Juan Rico <juan_rico@captionsinc.com> > Subject: Bilstein question... > > > Hi, > > > > I installed some Bilstein sports last Thursday together with Eibach > springs. > > The ride is great, although I was expecting something WAY stiffer, > > especially after all the horror stories... Could it be that the H&R springs > are way stiffer? > > Why I spent a whole year and a half researching and doubting this mod is > beyond me. > > I'm even "somewhat" disappointed as the car still doesn't feel stiff > enough... > > Just to put it in perspective, I've never owned a car with a suspension > anywhere > > near as stiff as this one, and I've been driving on a stock suspended M3 > for > the past 130K miles > > and I'm not the least bit horrified at the ride, but actually find it very > livable. > > Now I'm convinced I need sway bars. > > > > But here's the question: The rear of the car looks great, as the wheels are > nicely > > tucked in the fender, however my car is a good inch higher in the front > now, > > so what are my options to get rid off or at least make the gap less > conspicuous? > > Am I stuck with this? How long do the Bilsteins take to settle? > > Do they settle an appreciable amount? > > > > Thanks for any info from all you BTDT Bilstein folks out there... > > > > Juan. >
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#6. FS: 1998 Alpine White M3--OOPS! - from rehrlich98m3@mindspring.com
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Date: Tue, 02 Apr 2002 23:37:13 -0500 From: <rehrlich98m3@mindspring.com> Subject: FS: 1998 Alpine White M3--OOPS! Forgot the important bit: Asking $29,000 No Known Issues. Best bet is call and leave a message at (202)321-3098
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#7. Re: Bilstein Question - from vince@rjthrockmorton.com
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Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2002 00:29:02 -0500 From: "" <vince@rjthrockmorton.com> Subject: Re: Bilstein Question Juan, I had the same thing happen with a set of Eibachs on my 98 sedan using the stock shocks, the front end stuck up in the air like 68 Impala. It was late and I was down to my last beer, so I cut one coil from each brand new Eibach spring. The look was perfect, the handling was improved and I had no trouble for 3 years. I know, you're not supposed to do it, but I could not wait and it worked for me. Vince
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#8. Re: [E36M3] Big Brake Kits? - from Mark Radelow
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Date: Wed, 03 Apr 2002 05:32:04 +0000 From: "Mark Radelow" <radelow@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Big Brake Kits? The UUC setup in case anyone wants to know uses Corvette calipers. I believe they are made by PBR in Australia. Mark From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> To: Mark Radelow <radelow@hotmail.com>, E36M3 <e36m3@bmw-m.net>, peter@guagenti.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Big Brake Kits? Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2002 19:30:59 -0800 (PST) While proper ducting, good pads and/or floating rotors might help, you have to start weighing the pros/cons. How much are a set of backing plates that accept ducts? It's unbelieveable! Also, are there any kits that allow you to turn from lock to lock without ripping out the ducts? Pads...yes, I was very happy with the PF90s but I also think that they wear faster than the larger pads of the big brake kits. Perhaps the cooling air from ducts/etc will help extend pad life. Overall, I think that if you had a car with big brakes and a stock setup, cost to continue the autox/driver school addiction is actually cheaper with the big brake kits. I think the rotors last longer, the pads last longer, and there's just a larger safety margin to not get any fade. Regardless, I think that big brake kits couldn't hurt unless you're competing and your class would forbid you to have the mod. As far as different brake kits, I haven't used the UUC kit, but it just looks like a larger cast setup similar to the stock brakes. We've done some brake work on a Olds Aurora and a Olds Cavelier and they look pretty similar...woo hoo! As far as the Rogue kit, driving in a car with this setup almost made me not even consider a big brake kit because it was scary to drive. Pedal feel was horrible. Also, the Rogue calipers were designed to be used with a 32mm thick rotor. They use the E46M3 28mm thich rotor...so right off the bat, it's like using brake pads with 2mm of material removed on each side. I still went ahead with the purchase of front and rear used Movit kits and bled them the manual way...pedal feel is absolutely awesome. The car feels well settled, pedal feel is great, modulation is great and the car just plain wants to stop. If you can find a used set for a few bucks, I'd say go for it. Chester --- Mark Radelow <radelow@hotmail.com> wrote: > The general feedback I have gotten is that all the aftermarket brake kits > really are not needed for our car. With proper brake ducting, Euro floating > rotors, and good pads you will not see better braking with another kit. I > tend to believe it as I know quite a few people running stock kits on the > track and have no braking problems whatsoever. I pounded the hell out of my > brakes at Buttonwillow and running Mintex C-Tech pads never had a hint of > fade. ===== __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Tax Center - online filing with TurboTax http://taxes.yahoo.com/ _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp.
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#9. BBS RK's - from Scott King
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Date: Wed, 03 Apr 2002 05:59:27 -0500 From: "Scott King" <vw8vgti@hotmail.com> Subject: BBS RK's <html><div style='background-color:'><DIV> <P>Chris,</P> <P>I have been running RK's for about 9 months now, and I am very happy with them. They are alot lighter than the boat anchor Contours that I took off. So far I have had no problems with bending, and they are great when it comes to cleaning.</P> <P>The only complaint that I have with mine is the finish. The paint job on them is not very impressive. There is minimal paint coverage on the inside/backside of the wheel and even some light spots in the lug bolt holes. Whoever painted my set was obviously having a bad day.</P> <P>Anyway, I run 235's all around and I am pretty pleased with the setup. Hope this helps.</P> <P>Scott King<BR><BR></P></DIV></div><br clear=all><hr>Join the world’s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. <a href='http://g.msn.com/1HM505401/16'>Click Here</a><br></html>
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#10. FS: stuuff - from Guillermo Molina
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Date: Wed, 03 Apr 2002 08:47:46 -0500 From: "Guillermo Molina" <drwillb@msn.com> Subject: FS: stuuff One more time: AA front strut bar, very good condition, $200 includes shipping. 4 MXX3 with about 30% tread, no punctures or repairs, will not ship, local delivery or pickup in NY area only, $125. 1 Yoki AVS intermediate, 50% tread, has 1 nail hole repaired, will not ship, $30. 1 e30 euro ellipsoid, passenger side, very good condition, includes bulb, $60 includes shipping. pictures can be seen at http://photos.yahoo.com/drwillb Bill Molina _________________________________________________________________ Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com