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#1. aquamist - from Paul Elliott
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Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2002 21:19:34 -0500 From: "Paul Elliott" <elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net> Subject: aquamist Alan, >>How would you know this?!? Have you ever actually watched the spray from the end of the hose during the first run of the day, or after the car has had enough time for the pump to unprime? << Of course Ive seen it...Ive set it before driving, using my mityvac, and holding the nozzle..aT the trigger point, the pump turns on, and the nozzle sprays SIMULTANEOUSLY...But even if there was a slight delay on only the first trigger of the day, in most cases, that will NOT occur when you most need it...Because youre supposed to warm your car up first, right? And at least in my case, I often give it small punches at around 3k rpms up to 4K as its warming up...then, again before I'll go full bore, I'll stab it to maybe 4k rpms, which is usually enough to hit 3 psi, which is enough to trigger...Bingo...first use of the day...Thereafter, youre fine...So, I really dont see the issue for street use.....But, its all moot, cause at least in my case, Ive yet to see the delay, and thats in quite a bit of testing...sorry I cant corroberate your findings. Paul Elliott --------------------------------------------------------- '99 White M3; < 40K miles; Dinan stage II SC kit with 6" RMS crank pulley: 11 psi; AA Water Injection; Rotex pads;X-Brace; Dinan Koni Suspension; Stygar SS and Clutch Stop; Sound by Polk, Excelon, JLAudio
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#2. [Fwd: 95 m3 srs dash light] - from Sue Kraft
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Date: Wed, 03 Apr 2002 20:39:15 -0600 From: Sue Kraft <suekraft@new.rr.com> Subject: [Fwd: 95 m3 srs dash light] -------- Original Message -------- Subject: 95 m3 srs dash light Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2002 14:04:47 -0800 From: "Cody McCoy" <Cody_McCoy@Aurorabio.com> To: "'suzy@bmw-m.net'" <suzy@bmw-m.net> srs airbag light, 95 M3 airbag warning light triggered after accidentally applying power to battery with dash disconnected, how to reset?, bentley says "bmw authorized service", there must be a cheaper and saner way to reset the light-ie; diagnostic connector?,off list is fine, all help is much appreciated, and thanks to all for great lizt and fantastic info, what a great group, used to lurk on the toyota lizt and it was filled with flaming and spammers and very little info. P.S. the airbag won't go off while I'm driving, will it with the light on? -Cody McCoy Cody_McCoy@aurorabio.com mccoyc@sbcglobal.net '95 M3/2 Alpine white- before previous owner beat the %#$* out of it.
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#3. Tires - from Tad Bacon
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Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2002 21:56:52 -0500 From: "Tad Bacon" <tadbacon@qis.net> Subject: Tires Looking for advice from the group. I want to replace my rear tires. Kumhos have had mixed reviews on Tire Rack. Any feedback from those who have experience would be appreciated. Tad 98 M3
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#4. Re: [E36M3] Tires - from Chris Teague
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Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2002 19:31:42 -0800 From: "Chris Teague" <cteague@cox.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Tires I have the Kumho Ecsta 712's. Quiet, feel nice, grip is OK, but no where near as good as the Kumho V700's I have. ;-) Actually, they are not quite as grippy as the Pilot MXX3's either (only noticed when I autocrossed on them). They seem plenty grippy for the street for the money though. I will keep using the V700's for autox, and the Ecsta 712's for street. Chris 97 M3/4 ----- Original Message ----- > Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2002 21:56:52 -0500 > From: "Tad Bacon" <tadbacon@qis.net> > Subject: Tires > > Looking for advice from the group. I want to replace my rear tires. Kumhos > have had mixed reviews on Tire Rack. Any feedback from those who have > experience would be appreciated. > > Tad > 98 M3
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#5. Re: [E36M3] Euro Rotors and RSMs in Solo2? - from Ron Katona
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Date: Wed, 03 Apr 2002 23:18:53 -0500 From: Ron Katona <rkatona@bellatlantic.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Euro Rotors and RSMs in Solo2? peterg wrote: > Modified rotors used to be a no-no in Street Prepared, but that's changed. In > the Solo2 minutes in Sports Car this month they announced that > drilled/slotted/etc rotors are now acceptable. I have to go with Rex on this one, although I think a clarification is needed. The FasTrack says specifically "cross drilled or slotted" rotors are ok (no "etc." in there). So it doesn't say that two piece rotors are ok where the stock part was a one piece rotor. Since they are not a US M3 part, I'd say the Euros are still illegal unless the SCCA rules that they are ok. After all, these are not modified US M3 rotors, they are completely different rotors. > I don't know why there was ever an issue in the first place. It has very > little bearing on auto-x results. I agree. However, the Euros are attractive not for braking performance, but for weight savings. It's a small advantage, but every place you can legally shed weight, especially unsprung and rotating weight, is a benefit. That's the only reason I'd want them on my car. I'm not even sure how much lighter the Euros are... might not even be worth the trouble to write the SEB and ask for a clarification. -- Ron Katona
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#6. Re: [E36M3] Euro Rotors and RSMs in Solo2? - from Peter Guagenti
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Date: Wed, 03 Apr 2002 21:12:15 -0800 From: Peter Guagenti <peter@guagenti.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Euro Rotors and RSMs in Solo2? on 4/3/02 8:25 PM, Ron Katona at rkatona@bellatlantic.net wrote: > I have to go with Rex on this one, although I think a clarification is > needed. The FasTrack says specifically "cross drilled or slotted" rotors > are ok (no "etc." in there). So it doesn't say that two piece rotors are > ok where the stock part was a one piece rotor. I would agree with you if going by 'letter of the law', but we'll have to wait to see how they word it. In principle however, I seriously doubt anyone would dispute using LTW rotors. The weight savings from cross drilling and slotting are probably equal or greater. > I agree. However, the Euros are attractive not for braking performance, > but for weight savings. It's a small advantage, I would bet a $100 that you could run an E36M3 back-to-back with LTW and stock rotors and see no noticeable improvement in your times. There is simply not enough weight saved here. Ironically, at least in the Bay Area, a number of us have run LTW rotors, drilled rotors, etc. for quite a while, and no one ever really gave a damn. Most of the serious racers agree that the "improvement" offered by these parts is negligible in autocross. -peterg
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#7. FS: E36 M3 Monoball Aluminum Trailing Arm Bushing - from DrDan976@aol.com
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Date: Thu, 04 Apr 2002 00:30:41 -0500 From: DrDan976@aol.com Subject: FS: E36 M3 Monoball Aluminum Trailing Arm Bushing Supposedly made by JT-Designs but looks and performs exactly like TC Kline Racing's Aluminum Trailing Arm Bushing. I am told that JTD does not make these anymore. I didnt even know JTD made a set before I acquired them. I actually think they are TCK's. From TCK's site, these create a simple but permanent solution for one of the weakest elements of the rear suspension on E36 BMWsthe rubber trailing arm bushing substituting it with a spherical ball joint mounted in an aluminum housing. These eliminate the most common failure in the rear suspension. They also prevent toe changes caused by bushing flex during cornering and helps prevent tearing of the trailing arm mounts. For all E36 BMWs (except Z3) and E46 models. TC sells it on his website for $395 to racers. Selling for $200 + shipping. Dan Wang 95 M3
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#8. Re: 95 m3 srs dash light - from S Lafredo
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Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2002 21:52:42 -0800 (PST) From: S Lafredo <slafredo@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: 95 m3 srs dash light This is the only tool that I know of... http://www.obd2.com/lightreset/light_reset_tools.htm Probably not cheaper than having the dealer reset it, but at least you still have the tool. I personally have not used it. HTH. S --- Sue Kraft <suekraft@new.rr.com> wrote: > From: "Cody McCoy" <Cody_McCoy@Aurorabio.com> > srs airbag light, > > 95 M3 airbag warning light triggered after accidentally applying > power > to > battery with dash disconnected, > how to reset?, bentley says "bmw authorized service", there must be a > cheaper and saner > way to reset the light-ie; diagnostic connector?,off list is fine, > all help > is much appreciated, and thanks to all for great lizt and fantastic > info, > what a great group, used to lurk on the toyota lizt and it was filled > with flaming and spammers and very little info. > > P.S. the airbag won't go off while I'm driving, will it with the > light on? __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Tax Center - online filing with TurboTax http://taxes.yahoo.com/
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#9. HELP! busted sway bar mount - from Jeff Stowe
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Date: Thu, 04 Apr 2002 22:17:11 -0800 From: Jeff Stowe <jrstowe@pacbell.net> Subject: HELP! busted sway bar mount While giving the 98 M3/4 a thorough inspection tonight I discovered a broken rear sway bar mount. Not at the end link but where the sway bar passes through the bushing. This looks pretty bad to me as that doesn't appear to be a bolt on part. It appears to be a welded/integral of the rear frame assembly. The metal seems to have fatigued and sheared. I seem to recal much discussion of this recently which I ignored because it did not seem to apply to me. Am I F'd? Is this a major repair or could I reasonable expect a decent shop (A&E performance?) to turn this around in a day with lot's of pleading and begging. Is there a stronger aftermarket solution which I should go ahead and implement while I'm at it? I am desperate to make it to buttonwillow this weekend, please, any help is greatly appreciated. jeff
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#10. RE: Brake Cooling - from Mike Frank
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Date: Thu, 04 Apr 2002 01:28:43 -0500 From: Mike Frank <mfrank28@comcast.net> Subject: RE: Brake Cooling Mike, Ducts will be a worthwhile addition to your setup. The HMS kit looks the same as the Bimmerworld kit, which I bought a couple of years ago. I have modified my setup a few times, and my recommendation would be to get the backing plates only. At $245 they are rather pricey (like many things for our BMWs), but I don't think anyone offers anything much cheaper and they work very well. Lube helps. :) IMHO, the hose they include is too stiff and they're not exactly giving it away. Go to a race shop and get some of the orange high temp silicone hose. It is extremely flexible and so far pretty durable. An 11 foot "stick" cost me ~$50. More hose, better hose, cheaper hose - hard to beat. I would also omit the flanges. They seem like a good idea, but they require more work than necessary and stress the fender liners too much. If you really want them, you can have mine for free. The idea of being able to remove the piece from the flange to the backing plates again seems good, but I ended up leaving mine on all the time. You will most likely still have clearance issues with just the flange, so removal doesn't buy much. Besides, it keeps my dustless street pads cooler when I get into them every so often. If the flange had a 30-45 degree bend, it would be much better. It would allow mounting further inboard and reduce stress on the center plastic shroud that's always breaking/coming off (especially if you use their stiff hose). In the end I cut away roughly 2/3 of a circle from the inside of the (new) fender liners and also cut away some of the rear lower edge of the (new) center shroud. This eliminated most of the stress on the plastic pieces and allowed mounting further inward for additional steering lock. I also made some custom ducts from the stock pieces to attach to the bumper cover. I know of at least 5 other people who bought the whole kit and we all ended up doing the same thing - different hose, no flanges. Sorry, rambled a bit. Let me know if you want more info. Hope this helps. Have fun at RA. Mike Frank 97 M3 > -------------------- 10 -------------------- > Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2002 20:56:10 EST > From: Raginglennie@aol.com > Subject: Brake Cooling > > I'm thinking about adding some brake ducting to my recently > purchased '95 M3, > as I plan on sticking with the stock brakes. I'm an > "intermediate" group > student in driving schools, but I'm starting to carry decent > speeds into > "brake intensive" corners (such as the aforementioned turn 5 at Road > America). My brake fluid will be fresh, my pads will be > Performance Friction > & my rotors will be floating, but I'd like to make sure all > of that stays as > cool as possible. snip