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#1. FS: 17" Forgeline Wheels for Sale - from DrDan976@aol.com
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Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2002 01:36:27 EST From: DrDan976@aol.com Subject: FS: 17" Forgeline Wheels for Sale For Sale: 17" forgeline competition wheels measuring 17x9 fronts and rears in excellent shape. The wheels retail for $2600.00 per set without tires. Selling for $1000 off. $1600 + shipping. Daniel Wang 95 M3
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#2. FS: Bridgestone SO3 245-40-17 new - from DrDan976@aol.com
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Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2002 01:39:00 EST From: DrDan976@aol.com Subject: FS: Bridgestone SO3 245-40-17 new Driven only 10 miles 245-40-17 Tirerack sells them for $192 each. Selling $675 + shipping for all 4. Daniel Wang 95 M3
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#3. Rear trailing arm bushing install - from Mike Frank
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Date: Thu, 04 Apr 2002 01:36:45 -0500 From: Mike Frank <mfrank28@comcast.net> Subject: Rear trailing arm bushing install I remember a few people sending procedures/tips for doing this to the list but I can't seem to find them. If anyone could send these to me or point me in the right direction I would appreciate it. Thanks, Mike Frank 97 M3
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#4. Tires - from Stan.Shaw@Excell.Net
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Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2002 02:04:09 -0500 From: <Stan.Shaw@Excell.Net> Subject: Tires You don't mention which model Kumhos. I have the 712s on all four corners of my car, and have no complaint....they may even see some track use. Hard to go wrong at that price. They seem fine on the street. Regards, Stan Shaw Excell.Net Phone: (413) 599-0399 Fax: (413) 599-0421 Stan.Shaw@Excell.Net http://www.excell.net/ "They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety." - Benjamin Franklin
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#5. Re: [E36M3] Rear trailing arm bushing install - from James McKenna
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Date: Thu, 04 Apr 2002 02:49:01 -0500 From: James McKenna <shutupkid@comcast.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Rear trailing arm bushing install yea same here, i just recieved my replacment bushings today, now need a how to -james ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mike Frank" <mfrank28@comcast.net> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Thursday, April 04, 2002 1:45 AM Subject: [E36M3] Rear trailing arm bushing install > Date: Thu, 04 Apr 2002 01:36:45 -0500 > From: Mike Frank <mfrank28@comcast.net> > Subject: Rear trailing arm bushing install > > I remember a few people sending procedures/tips for doing this to the > list but I can't seem to find them. If anyone could send these to me or > point me in the right direction I would appreciate it. > > Thanks, > > Mike Frank > 97 M3 > > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. > ************************************************************* > >
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#6. big brakes? - from Kit Wetzler
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Date: Wed, 03 Apr 2002 23:50:14 -0800 From: Kit Wetzler <kitwetzler@mindspring.com> Subject: big brakes? Ok, let's settle this big brake thing once and for all. Ben, Matt, someone from Movit and someone from Stoptech all send me your brake kits. I'll install and try them out on my car, free of charge! You'll get a very thorough evaluation of your product in direct comparison with your competitors. I'd even be glad to try them out on both a Euro motor'd M3, as well as a couple of stockfish obd-2 cars, as well as on my own supercharged M3. See, aren't I a nice guy? ;) My car is probably worse case scenario for brakes. It is (was) a dual purpose street/track car with a decent amount of power, (especially now that it is supercharged) and as heavy as M3s come... 4 door lux package. I've tried Hawk Blues, Cool Willys, Porterfield R4s and stock pads on the track. I've gotten the blues to fade coming into turn 2 at Laguna Seca, but just about nowhere else. The Cool Willys would go away a bit after some hard running, the R4s were about the same and the stock pads gave up after 4 hard laps. -kit
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#7. aquamist issues - from Kit Wetzler
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Date: Wed, 03 Apr 2002 23:58:44 -0800 From: Kit Wetzler <kitwetzler@mindspring.com> Subject: aquamist issues > Of course Ive seen it...Ive set it before driving, using my mityvac, and > holding the nozzle..aT the trigger point, the pump turns on, and the > nozzle Does the actual jet spray or does water come out of the hose? Remember, the Aquamist jets are designed to work at 125 psi. Where is your pressure switch mounted? Do you use the remote mount boost sensor? The big problem with the AA kit is the distance of pipe you run. I really am not comfortable with this. Even Aquamist recommends that if the run of supply pipe to the pump is longer than 3.5 meters. What happens is that you might get water at first, but unless you keep the pump well primed, it will sputter after a second or two. I did some testing and am convinced that I need to remount my pump... (I mounted mine right where AA mounts their's) "6. What if the horizontal distance of the tank is over 3.5 metres and below the water pump ? You need a priming pump, any windscreen washer type will do it, needs to be activated under boost." I suspect that you are going to have issues with this. Think about it this way... would you feel safe running your 11psi pulley without water injection? I wouldn't. (have you drilled and tapped a port for a wideband 02 sensor before the cats?) And if your water injection sprays for a second or two, and then sucks in a bubble and unprimes itself (much more likely with a long run of 6mm supply line) you might lose WI when you need it the most... Best way to install an aquamist kit on the M3 would be to mount the pump below the level of the windshield washer tank, with as short a run of water supply hose as possible. Make the line between the pump and the jet longer. Water fills up a 4mm line pretty fast at 125psi. I have gone through 3 tanks of gas with the aquamist, and have only run the 2.5l tank down to half. -kit
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#8. Re: [E36M3] aquamist issues - from Jay G
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Date: Thu, 04 Apr 2002 00:35:58 -1000 From: Jay G <jguzman@hawaii.edu> Subject: Re: [E36M3] aquamist issues what does the aquamist actually mist anyway??? please enlighten me, as i am clueless about this... :) Kit Wetzler wrote: > I have > gone through 3 tanks of gas with the aquamist, and have only run the > 2.5l tank down to half.
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#9. Re: [E36M3] Euro Rotors and RSMs in Solo2? - from Ron Katona
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Date: Thu, 04 Apr 2002 07:08:29 -0500 From: Ron Katona <rkatona@bellatlantic.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Euro Rotors and RSMs in Solo2? Peter Guagenti wrote: > > on 4/3/02 8:25 PM, Ron Katona at rkatona@bellatlantic.net wrote: > > > I have to go with Rex on this one, although I think a clarification is > > needed. The FasTrack says specifically "cross drilled or slotted" rotors > > are ok (no "etc." in there). So it doesn't say that two piece rotors are > > ok where the stock part was a one piece rotor. > > I would agree with you if going by 'letter of the law', but we'll have to > wait to see how they word it. In principle however, I seriously doubt > anyone would dispute using LTW rotors. The weight savings from cross > drilling and slotting are probably equal or greater. At the local level no one should protest it - ever. If an M3 wins BSP at nationals and some clever Vette driver notices the non-stock rotors... could be a different story. The wording will probably be just like it is in the FasTrack: vague and open to interpretation. ;-) > > I agree. However, the Euros are attractive not for braking performance, > > but for weight savings. It's a small advantage, > > I would bet a $100 that you could run an E36M3 back-to-back with LTW and > stock rotors and see no noticeable improvement in your times. There is > simply not enough weight saved here. True, but give me a dozen little "pushing the envelope of the rules" tricks and you will see a difference - it all adds up. > Ironically, at least in the Bay Area, a number of us have run LTW rotors, > drilled rotors, etc. for quite a while, and no one ever really gave a damn. > Most of the serious racers agree that the "improvement" offered by these > parts is negligible in autocross. Oh sure, same here in DC, but for national events realize they are illegal and you're running an illegal car. I think that was the original question. Again, take the Euro rotors, then take E30 M3 aluminum control arms, then take Group N cams, then take the crash bolts, then take... you get the picture. SCCA is very specific with the interpretation of Solo-II rules. If it doesn't say it's legal, it's not legal. I see "two piece, aluminum hat" rotors as being different from "cross drilled or slotted." There was no "etc." in the ruling. I would imagine though that a simple e-mail to Howard Duncan might get it cleared up. The *intent* of the rule is clearly to allow mildly modified rotors of the same size and basic material composition (no carbon fiber or ceramics) as the original. The Euros are in effect a modified M3 rotor. However, unless that's stated by someone in the SCCA, I believe they are illegal in SP for the time being. -- Ron Katona
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#10. RE:Tires - from Steven Hazard
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Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2002 07:45:13 -0500 From: "Steven Hazard" <98m3@attbi.com> Subject: RE:Tires Tad, I just finished running a set of these Last Year. 245/40/17's at all 4 corners ....For the first part of their life they were a wonderfully cheap tire. Also very good in the rain. For the later 1/2 of their life on my 98M3/4 they were THE WORST TIRE I HAVE EVER DRIVEN ON. My car runs with lots of negative Camber, (3.25 degrees up front) and these tires just wore really wierd. Even though I rotated them every 2K they still wanted to pull real bad to the left. BTW alignment was not the issue. I have run BFG KD's, and Pilots, and set of RE71's all 245/40 on my 8.5 Fikse's with none of the above problems..So go figure? They got really noisy also, which doesn't bother me, but would bother many others. IMHO they just plain stink! Pass them by, and move on to another brand...... I now run 235/40 & 245/40 S03's on my stock staggered LTW Rims. I bought these so they could double as my "Rain tires" at the Track, or Autocrossing. Hoosier's don't like standing water! HTH's Steve > Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2002 21:56:52 -0500 > From: "Tad Bacon" <tadbacon@qis.net> > Subject: Tires > > Looking for advice from the group. I want to replace my rear tires. Kumhos > have had mixed reviews on Tire Rack. Any feedback from those who have > experience would be appreciated. > > Tad > 98 M3