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#1. Re: [E36M3] HELP! New Suspension Woes - from Andrej Dolenc
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Date: Sat, 6 Apr 2002 22:56:06 -0500 From: Andrej Dolenc <adolenc@erols.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] HELP! New Suspension Woes Chris, We had this exact same thing happen to us when we installed the Koni SA's on my car a few weeks ago. Wrap everything up, pull the car out of the garage for a test spin, and all we hear is horrible clunking from the front. The way we were able to isolate that it was specifically the nut at the top of the struts was to push on the front corners of the car and watch the top of the front strut - you could see there was vertical play there. A second shot with the impact gun tightened these enough to where they stopped clunking around. The only other suggestion would be one that got passed to me before I installed mine, and that was for a piece from a company that makes a "Shock absorber tool for Ford" that fits on our cars as well - Lisle. Look for part #20390 at www.lislecorp.com No experience with it on my part. Hope that helps, Andrej '97 M3 > Hi everyone, I just finished putting in my new StreetLine > suspension, and . . . something is very wrong. Loud clunks going > over every bump in the road. > I'm 95% sure the culprit is the shock absorbers in the front--I bet > those big top nuts aren't seated far enough. But I even used an > impact wrench (even though you are not supposed to), and couldn't > really get it down very far. Please help me out--what is the > technique here?? I've got the deep well socket that fits the nut, > but how is the shock shaft prevented from turning??? > Any advice on the above, or additional leads would be appreciated!
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#2. Streetline Suspension Settling In - from The Buch
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Date: Sat, 06 Apr 2002 21:16:08 -0800 From: The Buch <the_buch@telus.net> Subject: Streetline Suspension Settling In Has anyone replacing both springs and shocks/struts with more robust or firmer parts noticed that after a couple of thousand miles the new suspension seems to become stiffer ... does it make sense that these components work themselves 'in' ?? Thanks, Doug
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#3. Re: [E36M3] HELP! New Suspension Woes - from Chester Wong
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Date: Sat, 6 Apr 2002 21:11:39 -0800 (PST) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] HELP! New Suspension Woes There are a few possibilities: - Are you sway bar end links tightened? - Did you release the struts from the kingpin or did you do the longer way of removing everything from the control arm (hahahaha...that's what I used to do)? If you removed the strut from the kingpin, you should have made sure that the bottom two bolts are snug before tightening the bolt that goes across. I think Mike Schaublin (sp?) had this problem (his was more of the negative camber issue) where he tightened the cross bolt which prevented the bottom bolts from fully seating... Could be a source of the noise - Lastly (and most likely the problem), you hit the nail on the head...you probably didn't tighten the nut all the way down. There's really no way to prevent the shaft from turning unless a) you grip the shaft (yeck) or b) you buy a special tool to hold the little hex head at the top. I would imagine almost everyone here uses an impact for this task. Keep on hitting it with an impact. Make sure the bearing plate doesn't get caught on the lip of the shaft of the strut insert (where the threads end and where the smooth shaft begins). When you use the impact, the shaft with turn, but each slap of the weights in the impact will turn the nut ever so slightly on the shaft and you'll see the bearing plate go down. When you finally bottom the bearing plate onto the shaft, you will definitely feel a difference in the spring (I'd only hold one coil and not span two with your fingers just in case something goes terribly wrong). The shaft will also not turn anymore when you bottom out. I'd say that you should see almost 1/2" of threads out of the top of the nut. Good luck, Chester --- Darling Christopher Maj AMC/CEXR <Christopher.Darling@scott.af.mil> wrote: > I'm 95% sure the culprit is the shock absorbers in the front--I bet those big > top nuts aren't seated far enough. But I even used an impact wrench (even > though you are not supposed to), and couldn't really get it down very far. > Please help me out--what is the technique here?? I've got the deep well > socket that fits the nut, but how is the shock shaft prevented from > turning??? ===== __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Tax Center - online filing with TurboTax http://taxes.yahoo.com/
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#4. O2 Faults - from The Buch
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Date: Sat, 06 Apr 2002 21:24:35 -0800 From: The Buch <the_buch@telus.net> Subject: O2 Faults For about a week, I have noticed a low rumble and minor roughness at minimal throttle levels during deceleration, and I just 'threw' a CHECK ENGINE light today ... codes are 229 (control frequency too large in lean range for cylinders 1-3),230 (control frequency too large in lean range for cylinders 4-6) and 231(jump time too long from rich to lean for cylinders 1-3) ... reset once, and not yet returned ... I would greatly appreciate knowing what I am facing, and how quickly I need to deal with this ... great news less than 1,000mi out of warranty!! Thanks, Doug
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#5. HR coilover question - from James McKenna
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Date: Sun, 07 Apr 2002 01:39:51 -0500 From: James McKenna <shutupkid@comcast.net> Subject: HR coilover question before installign the assembeled struts i noticed that the spring must be compressed about half an inch before the strut bearing hits the shock shaft.. with one strut assembeled i took the other, but without putting the spring on the strut, placed the strut bearing on the strut, sliding it down the shaft (woah!) until it bottomed out and compared the two.. well should the strut bearing be all the way down on the lip where the shaft enlarges preventign the bearing from goign allll the way down? or is this half inch or so gap normal? i have both the front and rear set at full drop, the rear is perfect, but the front has slightly more of a tire/fender gap, making me wonder if i assembeled the struts incorrectly.... see an example of the drop here.
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#6. Re: [E36M3] HR coilover question - from Chester Wong
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Date: Sat, 6 Apr 2002 21:49:56 -0800 (PST) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] HR coilover question James, pics don't come across on the board. From the sounds of it, you certainly have the struts assembled incorrectly. The bearing plate should bottom out. Also, if I recall correctly when installing someone's H&R c/o setup, there's a washer that can get hung up on the lip so you really have to compress the spring a lot to make sure that you can get everything onto the shaft before tightening down. BTW, it's harder to tighten down those 2.5" springs. Can't wait to try it out on my car in a few days... (Ground Control setup, btw). Chester --- James McKenna <shutupkid@comcast.net> wrote: > before installign the assembeled struts i noticed that the spring must be > compressed about half an inch before the strut bearing hits the shock shaft.. > with one strut assembeled i took the other, but without putting the spring on > the strut, placed the strut bearing on the strut, sliding it down the shaft > (woah!) until it bottomed out and compared the two.. well should the strut > bearing be all the way down on the lip where the shaft enlarges preventign > the bearing from goign allll the way down? or is this half inch or so gap > normal? i have both the front and rear set at full drop, the rear is > perfect, but the front has slightly more of a tire/fender gap, making me > wonder if i assembeled the struts incorrectly.... see an example of the drop > here. ===== __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Tax Center - online filing with TurboTax http://taxes.yahoo.com/
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#7. Interesting thing happened to my tires today - from Chester Wong
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Date: Sat, 6 Apr 2002 22:17:46 -0800 (PST) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Interesting thing happened to my tires today So I drive out to Wayne's place today to just hang out and try his brakes ;) We're shootin' da sh*t and Wayne says, "why does your rear tire (left) look low on air?" I get out the air gauge...whoa...20 psi. Took the tire off...sure enough a big fat screw =( Wayne knew of a place in Orange, NJ that does great patch work...the only thing we were concerned with was marring the finish of the wheel...last experience wasn't a good one. So we take the wheel/tire to the place, drop it off (of course, I inquired about being concerned about scratching the wheel just to make sure they knew I would be paying attention), then went to grab some lunch. We returned after about 45 minutes, but they were still not done. Service Manager: "Yeah...we're still working on it...we ran into a problem" Me: "Wha?..." SM: "Well, we patched the screw, but there was another plug that we thought was unsafe..and it leaked." Me: "Huh? What other plug?" SM: "You didn't know there was a plug?" Me: "Nope =(" SM: "Come on back to the shop" The tech shows me the screw and this ugly orange blob that looked like chewing gum. YUCK! Service Tech: "Yeah, we pulled this here plug out...it wasn't very good" Needless to say, I was very surprised. I had these tires installed two years ago and other than the tire installer, no one really had access to my car. ....with the exception of the dealer for service work. So I'm thinking that either on my way up to the dealer or whenever before going to the dealer, I might have picked up something or maybe when they drove it around their lot, they picked up something....someone noticed it, pulled it out and installed a plug. Regardless of who is at fault, I would have liked to know if such a procedure was performed as things might not look very pretty on the track if the plug were to fail. Anyway, not sure what anyone here can do to prevent this aside from tell the service manager to explicitly tell you if anything went amiss as the smallest detail can be fatal on the race track. I will be calling up the dealership on Monday... =( Now I'm just wondering about my other tires.... Chester ===== __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Tax Center - online filing with TurboTax http://taxes.yahoo.com/
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#8. Re: [E36M3] HR coilover question - from James McKenna
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Date: Sun, 07 Apr 2002 03:27:45 -0400 From: James McKenna <shutupkid@comcast.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] HR coilover question woops, go here for pics http://bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&postid=222246#post222246
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#9. RE: [E36M3] Re: LTFT and forced induction - from Mel Silva
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Date: Sun, 7 Apr 2002 00:25:51 -0600 From: "Mel Silva" <melsilva@mindspring.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Re: LTFT and forced induction Mark, It sound like you've got it to me. Most turbo systems use blow off valves or bypass valves of some sort so that when they reach max boost, any additional energy pumped into them bypasses the system. This basic principle is impossible to do with a belt driven centrifugal supercharger since you can't just bypass excess RPM's (I have seen this system on a roots type blower, like my neighbors 911 C2, that uses a modified bypass valve regulating the system to 5psi). If you "re-geared" the supercharger to make max boost at the torque curve, any RPM above that would, theoretically, just add heat to the compressed air in the intake not more pressure. Of course this is waaaaay oversimplified, but you should be able to extrapolate the rest. Mel -----Original Message----- From: Mark Kelly [mailto:mark@garden.net] Sent: Saturday, April 06, 2002 10:45 AM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] Re: LTFT and forced induction Date: Sat, 06 Apr 2002 11:17:56 -0500 From: Mark Kelly <mark@garden.net> Subject: Re: LTFT and forced induction Sorry to stray off this topic a bit, but this touches on a topic that I don't quite understand. Why does a 3.0 with centrifugal SC not produce as much torque as the same engine with a turbo charger, even if the max boost is the same (say 8psi). Is it because the SC builds boost with the RPM, reaching max boost were the engine's torque is the lowest, so the overall torque increase is not as high? If an engine produced max torque at say 3000RPM, and a given supercharger was providing 3psi at 3000rpm, it's torque could not be as high as a turbo charger that was delivering 8psi at 3000rpm? If you could set up a turbo charger to build boost like a SC, say reaching 8psi at max RPM, then would the torque curves be the same? Hmmm. How does this work? This has always confused me. Mark 98M3 >Many, many factors play a role as to how sensitive an engine is to >detonation (static compression ratio, air temp, exhaust backpressure, etc.). >Sometimes, you can actually increase the timing as the revs get higher, as >the exhaust back-pressure tends to dilute the A/F mix in the cylinder. This >allows more spark timing to be tolerated. (The added exhaust gasses can also >have the opposite effect of tolerating LESS timing if they're too hot and >increase the in-cylinder temps.) > >Now, you mentioned that our forced induced engines are more susceptible to >knock near redline. That is mostly a function of the tuner's programming and >the type of forced induction. Since a centrifugal SC builds boost with RPMs, >it stands to reason that the cylinder pressure will be higher if the RPM is >higher. Since turbo's build boost earlier in the rev band, they tend to make >their peak cylinder pressure earlier (more like a N/A engine). Then, the >programming plays a role. If the programmer added in extra spark in the >upper revs, then yes, the engine will be more susceptible to detonation up >top. > >Nick ************************************************************* List Commands UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). To issue a command/request to the server: Send a message with the command you wish executed as the subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. *************************************************************
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#10. Re: [E36M3] HR coilover question - from James McKenna
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Date: Sun, 07 Apr 2002 04:24:48 -0400 From: James McKenna <shutupkid@comcast.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] HR coilover question well heres the thing, when i assembled the strut with everythign but the spring, and tightened the nut all the way down to the end of the threads, the strut bearign had that same half inch of play up and down. i only reused one washer from the stock strut assembly as the installation instrutions said to do.... missing parts? -james ----- Original Message ----- From: "Chester Wong" <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Sunday, April 07, 2002 1:55 AM Subject: Re: [E36M3] HR coilover question > Date: Sat, 6 Apr 2002 21:49:56 -0800 (PST) > From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] HR coilover question > > James, pics don't come across on the board. From the sounds of it, you > certainly have the struts assembled incorrectly. The bearing plate should > bottom out. Also, if I recall correctly when installing someone's H&R c/o > setup, there's a washer that can get hung up on the lip so you really have to > compress the spring a lot to make sure that you can get everything onto the > shaft before tightening down. > > BTW, it's harder to tighten down those 2.5" springs. Can't wait to try it out > on my car in a few days... (Ground Control setup, btw). > > Chester > > --- James McKenna <shutupkid@comcast.net> wrote: > > before installign the assembeled struts i noticed that the spring must be > > compressed about half an inch before the strut bearing hits the shock shaft.. > > with one strut assembeled i took the other, but without putting the spring on > > the strut, placed the strut bearing on the strut, sliding it down the shaft > > (woah!) until it bottomed out and compared the two.. well should the strut > > bearing be all the way down on the lip where the shaft enlarges preventign > > the bearing from goign allll the way down? or is this half inch or so gap > > normal? i have both the front and rear set at full drop, the rear is > > perfect, but the front has slightly more of a tire/fender gap, making me > > wonder if i assembeled the struts incorrectly.... see an example of the drop > > here. > > > ===== > > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Yahoo! Tax Center - online filing with TurboTax > http://taxes.yahoo.com/ > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. > ************************************************************* > >