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#1. Hood Roundel - from Ward, Chris
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Date: Tue, 9 Apr 2002 12:01:17 -0400 From: "Ward, Chris" <CWard@ContractLumber.com> Subject: Hood Roundel Date: Tue, 09 Apr 2002 01:36:56 -0400 From: ChuckBrazeau@aol.com Subject: Hood Roundel The roundel on my M3's hood needs to be replaced, so i'm taking one with me when i fly to NY to pick it up (in 58 hours, 25 minutes, and 15 seconds! :-P), and wanted to know what tools are needed (if any) to remove and reinstall a hood roundel. Easily done, or should i wait to get it home? Thanks! ChuckBrazeau.com '95 M3/2 Violet There are two ways you can go about pulling off the hood emblem. The first way is to carefully use a flathead screwdriver to pry up the emblem, only to discover that you just creased the metal and now have to call a paint less dent removal company about $68.00 to fix the damage.(not that I would know) Or you could slide dentil floss under the sides of the emblem and pull up on both ends of the dentil floss. (I recommend this way) The emblem is held in place by two grommets. I hope this helps. Chris Ward 95 M3 (new hood roundel)
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#2. Re: [E36M3] re: Adjustable Rear Control Arms - from andy radin
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Date: Tue, 9 Apr 2002 09:08:25 -0700 From: "andy radin" <fourfa@mindspring.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] re: Adjustable Rear Control Arms >> I chose the Rogue unit for a few reasons: rubber bushing (after >> seeing them though, I'm no longer concerned with this as the sleeve is fixed >> in the bushing, i.e. no chance of squeak >It sounds like you were concerned about NVH issues. Does your comment mean >that given the function/configuration of the rear control arms, any of them >will be fine, or that you have no NVH concerns with the Rogue units in >particular? Should have clarified. I was concerned that polyurethane would squeak and rubber wouldn't, thus I limited myself to rubber bushings. But in fact the metal sleeve is fixed and bonded to the elastomer, so all rotation is taken up by deflection in the rubber. So there's no sliding friction that can squeak with polyurethane. That's why I'm not concerned with it anymore, all should be fine. The poly ones may be slightly stiffer, but the bushing is large diameter and thin in the rubber section, so I don't see it making much difference on the street. andy r.
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#3. [E36M3] Porterfield R4 Life Span? - from twisty M3
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Date: Tue, 09 Apr 2002 09:13:07 -0700 From: "twisty M3" <twistym3@hotmail.com> Subject: [E36M3] Porterfield R4 Life Span? I'm really wishing I'd measured my R4 pads when new so I had something to compare them to, but I didn't. I realize it's totally dependant on many factors, but I'm going to ask anyway... I used the pads for a short time on the street (a few weeks, including some canyon drives) then took them off in favor of the R4S pads for street. I then (finally) learned to change pads so I swap them out for track events now. I used this set for one full weekend weekend at Buttonwillow (heavy on brakes, I think) and never really paid attention to how much material was there (I knew there was enough, sinc I changed them, but didn't measure them). I just finished another full weekend at Buttonwillow and the front pads are certainly lower than they were, but I'm not sure how much more life I can expect out of them. The inboard pads have about 6 mm left and the outboard pads have about 7-8 mm (is it normal to have different measurements like that??). I just saw on the GGC site that I made it to the "IN" list for Laguna Seca (Yippee!!!!), but I'm wondering if I should have enough pad to make it through. Anyway care to venture a guess. I'll have the street pads as back up, but am I close enough to be needing to use a new set and saving these as back up? I'd guess that I have just enough to make it through the weekend, and maybe even for the drive home, but that's just a random guess. Anyone have input? Thanks, Jonathan L. _________________________________________________________________ Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com
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#4. cool video - from Mark Greene
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Date: Tue, 09 Apr 2002 12:18:08 -0400 From: Mark Greene <gsa@arpinintl.com> Subject: cool video http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/forums/showthreaded.php?Cat=1&Board=forum&Number=363660&Search=true&Forum=All_Forums&Words=wrc&Match=Entire%20Phrase&Searchpage=0&Limit=25&Old=1week&Main=363660
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#5. Re: [E36M3] Porterfield R4 Life Span? - from donna seeley
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Date: Tue, 9 Apr 2002 09:37:47 -0700 From: donna seeley <dlseeley@earthlink.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Porterfield R4 Life Span? I use Hawk HT-10s on the E30 so can't specifically comment on R4 pads on an E36 but in general... Buttonwillow is one of the easier tracks on brakes. There's only one really hard braking zone (end of back straight ccw and end of front straight cw). I _always_ put on fresh pads for a weekend at Laguna & bring an extra set of rotors if they're not new. Donna --------- 88 M3, "Guido", #41 JP 95 330isA, super-commuter On Tuesday, April 9, 2002, at 09:15 AM, twisty M3 wrote: > Date: Tue, 09 Apr 2002 09:13:07 -0700 > From: "twisty M3" <twistym3@hotmail.com> > Subject: [E36M3] Porterfield R4 Life Span? > > I'm really wishing I'd measured my R4 pads when new so I had something > to compare them to, but I didn't. I realize it's totally dependant on > many factors, but I'm going to ask anyway... > > <snip> > The inboard pads have about 6 mm left and the outboard pads have about > 7-8 mm (is it normal to have different measurements like that??). > > I just saw on the GGC site that I made it to the "IN" list for Laguna > Seca (Yippee!!!!), but I'm wondering if I should have enough pad to > make it through. > Thanks, > Jonathan L.
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#6. Re: [E36M3] Porterfield R4 Life Span? - from twisty M3
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Date: Tue, 09 Apr 2002 09:55:31 -0700 From: "twisty M3" <twistym3@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Porterfield R4 Life Span? Hmm... More money to spend... That sucks! ;) Is it generally advisable to change front and back before Laguna, or just front? The rears don't look as used, but I'd rather be safe... if necessary. ;) ;) Jonathan L. >From: donna seeley <dlseeley@earthlink.net> >To: "twisty M3" <twistym3@hotmail.com> >CC: E36 list <e36m3@bmw-m.net> >Subject: Re: [E36M3] Porterfield R4 Life Span? >Date: Tue, 9 Apr 2002 09:37:47 -0700 > >I use Hawk HT-10s on the E30 so can't specifically comment on R4 pads on >an E36 but in general... >Buttonwillow is one of the easier tracks on brakes. There's only one >really hard braking zone (end of back straight ccw and end of front >straight cw). >I _always_ put on fresh pads for a weekend at Laguna & bring an extra >set of rotors if they're not new. > >Donna >--------- >88 M3, "Guido", #41 JP >95 330isA, super-commuter > _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp.
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#7. Ground Control Rear Trailing Arm Bushing Spacers/Washers SQUEAK - from Jonathan Evans
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Date: Tue, 9 Apr 2002 12:55:34 -0400 From: "Jonathan Evans" <jonathanevans@hotmail.com> Subject: Ground Control Rear Trailing Arm Bushing Spacers/Washers SQUEAK Subject says it all. These were installed on either side of the stock 96+ rear trailing arm bushings. They creak, moan and squeak. Rear end is definitely more solid though. Took about a week for the sounds to start. It's really obvious at low speeds. -Jonathan 95 M3
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#8. Re: plastic thingy - from Stan.Shaw@Excell.Net
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Date: Tue, 9 Apr 2002 13:04:35 -0400 From: <Stan.Shaw@Excell.Net> Subject: Re: plastic thingy Gerry, I have the JT-design aluminum undertray with brake cooling kit, and am happy with it. I have had the car on a few tracks since installation. Regards, Stan Shaw Excell.Net Phone: (413) 599-0399 Fax: (413) 599-0421 Stan.Shaw@Excell.Net http://www.excell.net/ "They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety." - Benjamin Franklin
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#9. re: conforti chip compatibility - from Jake Tiggersman
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Date: Tue, 9 Apr 2002 10:02:49 -0700 (PDT) From: Jake Tiggersman <jtigole@yahoo.com> Subject: re: conforti chip compatibility Eric, That chip will work fine with your car, but you must check to see if your car has EWS drive-away protection or not. The chip must match what you have (or not) as far as EWS or you will have some problems. ===== Jake Tiggersman 95 M3 UUC Comp Evo SS ECIS BBK AA Gen III Exhaust __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Tax Center - online filing with TurboTax http://taxes.yahoo.com/
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#10. Re: [E36M3] Porterfield R4 Life Span? - from donna seeley
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Date: Tue, 9 Apr 2002 10:02:12 -0700 From: donna seeley <dlseeley@earthlink.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Porterfield R4 Life Span? Well, I didn't say to throw the others away... keep them for another w/e at BW. Or you could drive slowly enough to use stock pads. <BG> Or you could adopt Steve Dinan's philosophy: "Brakes just slow you down!" Definitely the fronts, the rear if more than 1/2 worn. Donna On Tuesday, April 9, 2002, at 09:55 AM, twisty M3 wrote: > Hmm... More money to spend... That sucks! ;) Is it generally advisable > to change front and back before Laguna, or just front? The rears don't > look as used, but I'd rather be safe... if necessary. ;) ;) > > Jonathan L. > > >> From: donna seeley <dlseeley@earthlink.net> >> To: "twisty M3" <twistym3@hotmail.com> >> CC: E36 list <e36m3@bmw-m.net> >> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Porterfield R4 Life Span? >> Date: Tue, 9 Apr 2002 09:37:47 -0700 >> >> I use Hawk HT-10s on the E30 so can't specifically comment on R4 pads >> on >> an E36 but in general... >> Buttonwillow is one of the easier tracks on brakes. There's only one >> really hard braking zone (end of back straight ccw and end of front >> straight cw). >> I _always_ put on fresh pads for a weekend at Laguna & bring an extra >> set of rotors if they're not new. >> >> Donna >> --------- >> 88 M3, "Guido", #41 JP >> 95 330isA, super-commuter >> > > > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at > http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp. >