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#1. Re: [E36M3] H&R springs question - from Ahmad Lutfeali
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Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 22:38:53 +0000 From: "Ahmad Lutfeali" <m3_racer99@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] H&R springs question <html><div style='background-color:'><DIV>Alex and Rich,</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>The H&R Coil over rears (Stage 4 as called by H&R) Part 29336 (rears) sits lower than the Sport rears (29910 kit). </DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>Spring rates </DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>29910- 375 pounds </DIV> <DIV>29936- 360 pounds </DIV> <DIV>Race springs 515 pounds</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>I would like to find out why TC Kline would use 29936 rears with 29910 fronts. (Source: H&R Tech support).</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>Hope that helps.</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>A.L.</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>-------------------- 8 --------------------<BR>Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 13:56:54 -0500<BR>From: <A target=_top href="http://lw8fd.law8.hotmail.msn.com/cgi-bin/compose?curmbox=F000000005&a=f3c872c4f106b9efaba838d0603eab93&mailto=1&to=alex.fadeev@verizon.com&msg=MSG1018471734.55&start=1208539&len=12932&src=&type=x"><FONT color=#000099>alex.fadeev@verizon.com</FONT></A><BR><BR><BR>Rich Beebe <<A target=_top href="http://lw8fd.law8.hotmail.msn.com/cgi-bin/compose?curmbox=F000000005&a=f3c872c4f106b9efaba838d0603eab93&mailto=1&to=rich@beebecomm.com&msg=MSG1018471734.55&start=1208539&len=12932&src=&type=x"><FONT color=#000099>rich@beebecomm.com</FONT></A>> wrote:<BR>><BR>> I bought a set of H&R springs (used in great condition) a couple<BR>> of years ago and I'm just now getting around to installing them.<BR>> I noticed, when I checked them again, I have 29910 front springs<BR>> (which is the correct 'sport' number) and 29936 rear springs<BR>> (which is the rear spring for the H&R coilover setup.<BR><BR>Rich,<BR>You've bought a set of TC Kline's TrackLine springs.<BR>This fact is not well advertised, but though TC lists TrackLine springs as<BR>29910 (H&R Stage 2 == Sports), the rears are actually H&R Stage 4 springs.<BR>They are shorter and stiffer than 29910 rears, but H&R is not admitting to<BR>their exact rate. Unlike 29910 fronts that have the rate printed on the<BR>coils, 29336 rears only list the part #.<BR><BR>> Now, the coilover setup says the rears have a drop of 1-1.75",<BR>> obviously based on the adjuster. The 29910 rear springs are listed<BR>> at a 1" drop (same as the 29936 w/o adjustment). Does anyone know<BR>> if these springs actually have different spring rates and has anyone<BR>> else run this combination by chance? Thanks.<BR><BR>I've run this setup on my '95 M3 for a few weeks and had posted the drop<BR>results in the past (don't have them handy right now). Either way, the ride<BR>was very choppy, though wonderfully planted and controlled. I went to a<BR>preseason autoX and took FTD beating a Dinan Stage 3 suspended (and<BR>supercharged) car by a few thousands of a second. On track/autoX course I<BR>was ecstatic with the TrackLine kit. However, after driving like that for a<BR>few weeks, I took the H&Rs back out in favor of the stock springs and Koni<BR>SAs.<BR>Why you might ask? For one thing the ride on the Dallas TX streets was a<BR>bit more than my 28 year old bladder could take. Make that a ride at sub 80<BR>mph speeds was choppy and rough. At sub 40mph speeds it was bordering on<BR>unbearable. At above 80mph or on track it was perfect. As my car a partial<BR>daily driver/weekend fun car it was spending too much time at sub 80mph<BR>speeds and the H&Rs weren't earning too many brownie points.<BR>Than came THE scrape. I pulled into a gas station to fill her up and<BR>scraped the shit out of my M3 floor on a gas station man hole cover. The<BR>first thought that crossed my mind was that I had left the oil pan on the<BR>asphalt. Luckily, my front Eibach sways are protruding 3/4" below the level<BR>of the oil pan and took the hit. As did the muffler in the back. The car<BR>had survived THE scrape, but the H&Rs came out that very same weekend.<BR><BR>YMMV,<BR>alex f<BR><BR>P.S.: With a set of TrackLine springs (29100 front and 29936 rear H&Rs) for<BR>sale!<BR><BR><BR></DIV></div><br clear=all><hr>Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at <a href='http://g.msn.com/1HM505401/13'>http://explorer.msn.com</a>.<br></html>
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#2. FS: Forgeline wheels17x9 for E36 - from DrDan976@aol.com
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Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 19:20:26 -0400 From: DrDan976@aol.com Subject: FS: Forgeline wheels17x9 for E36 Reducing the price $1500+shipping. Forgeline competitions 17x9, no curb rash, polished finish. Retail is $2600. Located in So. Cali.
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#3. Re: [E36M3] H&R springs question - from Rich Beebe
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Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 19:56:04 -0400 From: Rich Beebe <rich@beebecomm.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] H&R springs question thanks alex. that's exactly the type of info i was hoping to find. based on already reviewing ahmad's comments, i guess the spring height is a bit shorter on the 29936s then. if the spring rates of 375 and 360 are correct for the 29910 and 29936 springs, i don't see a 'noticable' drop being attributed to a 15 lbs. difference in spring rate. Any chance someone here knows the free length of the 29910s? i'll measure my 29936s tonight to see what they are. a friend of mine, who crews for tc kline, is also going to ask him about the 29910/29936 pairing. what struts/shocks were you running with your setup alex? that may have had more to do with your "choppy" ride than the springs, especially if the 29936s truly are 360 lbs. i'm putting these springs and SA konis on this weekend and i'll post with my impressions afterwards. hopefully, the car won't have it's nose up too high with this spring combo. thanks alex and ahmad. rich > From: alex.fadeev@verizon.com > Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 13:56:54 -0500 > To: Rich Beebe <rich@beebecomm.com> > Cc: e36m3@bmw-m.net > Subject: Re: [E36M3] H&R springs question > > > Rich Beebe <rich@beebecomm.com> wrote: >> >> I bought a set of H&R springs (used in great condition) a couple >> of years ago and I'm just now getting around to installing them. >> I noticed, when I checked them again, I have 29910 front springs >> (which is the correct 'sport' number) and 29936 rear springs >> (which is the rear spring for the H&R coilover setup. > > Rich, > You've bought a set of TC Kline's TrackLine springs. > This fact is not well advertised, but though TC lists TrackLine springs as > 29910 (H&R Stage 2 == Sports), the rears are actually H&R Stage 4 springs. > They are shorter and stiffer than 29910 rears, but H&R is not admitting to > their exact rate. Unlike 29910 fronts that have the rate printed on the > coils, 29336 rears only list the part #. > >> Now, the coilover setup says the rears have a drop of 1-1.75", >> obviously based on the adjuster. The 29910 rear springs are listed >> at a 1" drop (same as the 29936 w/o adjustment). Does anyone know >> if these springs actually have different spring rates and has anyone >> else run this combination by chance? Thanks. > > I've run this setup on my '95 M3 for a few weeks and had posted the drop > results in the past (don't have them handy right now). Either way, the ride > was very choppy, though wonderfully planted and controlled. I went to a > preseason autoX and took FTD beating a Dinan Stage 3 suspended (and > supercharged) car by a few thousands of a second. On track/autoX course I > was ecstatic with the TrackLine kit. However, after driving like that for a > few weeks, I took the H&Rs back out in favor of the stock springs and Koni > SAs. > Why you might ask? For one thing the ride on the Dallas TX streets was a > bit more than my 28 year old bladder could take. Make that a ride at sub 80 > mph speeds was choppy and rough. At sub 40mph speeds it was bordering on > unbearable. At above 80mph or on track it was perfect. As my car a partial > daily driver/weekend fun car it was spending too much time at sub 80mph > speeds and the H&Rs weren't earning too many brownie points. > Than came THE scrape. I pulled into a gas station to fill her up and > scraped the shit out of my M3 floor on a gas station man hole cover. The > first thought that crossed my mind was that I had left the oil pan on the > asphalt. Luckily, my front Eibach sways are protruding 3/4" below the level > of the oil pan and took the hit. As did the muffler in the back. The car > had survived THE scrape, but the H&Rs came out that very same weekend. > > YMMV, > alex f > > P.S.: With a set of TrackLine springs (29100 front and 29936 rear H&Rs) for > sale! > >
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#4. FS: JT Designs video camera mount - from mclemens@directvinternet.com
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Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 19:08:17 -0500 From: <mclemens@directvinternet.com> Subject: FS: JT Designs video camera mount JT Designs video camera mount for rear seat. Connects between rear head rests. I purchased this camera mount for my E36 M3 but never used it because I got a roll bar. Still in the original box. Price is $85.00 plus shipping. Thanks Mike Clemens
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#5. Help!!: Cleaning Hawk brake pad residue from wheels - from Riley, Scott
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Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 20:48:31 -0500 From: "Riley, Scott" <sriley@cardinalcapital.com> Subject: Help!!: Cleaning Hawk brake pad residue from wheels After attending an autocross in the rain this weekend, I noticed what appeared to be rust buildup on my brand new Fikse FM/10 wheels when I went to clean the my M3 yesterday. I knew that Hawk Blues were known for doing this type of damage in the long run if they were not kept clean, but this is ridiculous. These wheels are used as my rain setup on my '95 M3 club racer and double as my transport wheels since they are mounted with Yok A032Rs. My wheels went from being bright and shiny after being purchased less than 1 month ago to looking like a brake rotor that had been sitting in the rain in the middle of a junkyard for 40 days and 40 nights. Luckily, only the front 2 wheels were damaged. Tonight, I attempted to remove the rust buildup with Griot's wheel cleaner along with some soap and water. The wheels merely laughed at my feeble attempt. Then, I was able to located a hard plastic, pencil-shaped tool. I figured this tool would not damage the finish of the wheel (at least anymore than I already had) and it worked a little bit. At the rate that I was progressing tonight, it was going to take over 10 hours per wheel to completely clean them. Does anybody have any suggestions of how to get this rust buildup off? Possibly, steam cleaning, simple green, etc. My strong preference would be for a method that does not harm the finish (Fikse's standard finish) of the wheel. Unless, there is a way to restore the finish later. I know some die-hard racers want to tell me that it is a racecar and it's not meant to be clean. However, I think it is a shame that a set of $2,000 wheels look like crap after effectively one outing. Please help. Thanks, Scott Riley #60 '95 M3 I-Stock rookie Dallas, Texas
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#6. RE: [E36M3] Help!!: Cleaning Hawk brake pad residue from wheels - from Adam Fila
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Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 22:13:31 -0400 From: "Adam Fila" <fila@stealthaccess.net> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Help!!: Cleaning Hawk brake pad residue from wheels PF-97's do exactly this to my wheels, especially when it rains. To some extent, they also leave rust residue on the paint (PF-90's never did either...) I had a brand new set of wheels go from new to completely encrusted with rust over one rainy track weekend. I found that waxing the wheels when clean, and using a regular kitchen scrubbing sponge (the rough side of it - I use SOS heavy duty scrubber sponge) and water (with a mild car wash solution mixed in) does wonders in removing the crusted on layer of rust - with a bit of work and scrubbing, and lots of rinsing, I can get a wheel that's been waxed before use completely as-new clean. The rust seems to loosen up with some effort, and wash away, without any perceivable damage to the wheel finish. I also have a set of dedicated track wheels that I can't be bothered to clean, they have so much rust buildup on them by now, that I am beginning to wonder what it does to the wheel balance ! I have not yet tried to scrub those - so I am not sure if it would still work in such extreme case. (Last time those wheels saw wax was 3 years ago when I got them...) YMMV, -Adam Fila '95 M3 -----Original Message----- From: Riley, Scott [mailto:sriley@cardinalcapital.com] Sent: Wednesday, April 10, 2002 9:58 PM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] Help!!: Cleaning Hawk brake pad residue from wheels Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 20:48:31 -0500 From: "Riley, Scott" <sriley@cardinalcapital.com> Subject: Help!!: Cleaning Hawk brake pad residue from wheels After attending an autocross in the rain this weekend, I noticed what appeared to be rust buildup on my brand new Fikse FM/10 wheels when I went to clean the my M3 yesterday. I knew that Hawk Blues were known for doing this type of damage in the long run if they were not kept clean, but this is ridiculous. These wheels are used as my rain setup on my '95 M3 club racer and double as my transport wheels since they are mounted with Yok A032Rs. My wheels went from being bright and shiny after being purchased less than 1 month ago to looking like a brake rotor that had been sitting in the rain in the middle of a junkyard for 40 days and 40 nights. Luckily, only the front 2 wheels were damaged. Tonight, I attempted to remove the rust buildup with Griot's wheel cleaner along with some soap and water. The wheels merely laughed at my feeble attempt. Then, I was able to located a hard plastic, pencil-shaped tool. I figured this tool would not damage the finish of the wheel (at least anymore than I already had) and it worked a little bit. At the rate that I was progressing tonight, it was going to take over 10 hours per wheel to completely clean them. Does anybody have any suggestions of how to get this rust buildup off? Possibly, steam cleaning, simple green, etc. My strong preference would be for a method that does not harm the finish (Fikse's standard finish) of the wheel. Unless, there is a way to restore the finish later. I know some die-hard racers want to tell me that it is a racecar and it's not meant to be clean. However, I think it is a shame that a set of $2,000 wheels look like crap after effectively one outing. Please help. Thanks, Scott Riley #60 '95 M3 I-Stock rookie Dallas, Texas ************************************************************* List Commands UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). To issue a command/request to the server: Send a message with the command you wish executed as the subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. *************************************************************
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#7. Anyone near Jacksonville? - from Ron Katona
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Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 22:20:32 -0400 From: Ron Katona <rkatona@bellatlantic.net> Subject: Anyone near Jacksonville? A friend in MD is interested in a '95 in Jacksonville, FL. I'd appreciate it if anyone with some time to look at it over the next two days would contact me privately. Thanks. -- Ron Katona
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#8. RE: [E36M3] Can anyone balance a tire correctly? - from Mel Silva
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Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 22:11:04 -0500 From: "Mel Silva" <melsilva@mindspring.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Can anyone balance a tire correctly? In addition to the things everyone else has mentioned, nobody has commented on the calibration of the balancing equipment. I had to tell the shop owner at the place I worked at a dozen times and stand there as he tried to balance a tire I could not balance. He just would not believe that the machine would need to be recalibrated after being installed by the Hunter Rep. I had to spend almost an hour of my time to prove that the balancer was in need of recalibration. Funny how after the rep recalibrated the machine it worked much better! Al though it took 3 days for him to come out and do it. Mel -----Original Message----- From: Robert S. Hatrak II [mailto:hatrak@ix.netcom.com] Sent: Tuesday, April 09, 2002 3:55 PM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] Can anyone balance a tire correctly? Date: Tue, 9 Apr 2002 13:45:43 -0700 From: "Robert S. Hatrak II" <hatrak@ix.netcom.com> Subject: Can anyone balance a tire correctly? So I got some new tires a couple of weeks ago. Since then I have been back to the same shop no less than three times trying to get the tires balanced correctly. The old tires were balanced perfectly, so I know the problem isn't the car or the wheels. The place is Discount Tire, and they charged me $60 to balance the tires the first time on their fancy Hunter gsp-9700 that everyone has raved about. It did the "road force" balance. That was the first try, and it caused my steering wheel to bounce all over the place. On the second two tries they used a normal Hunter machine, as they claim that tires need only be "road forced" once after being installed onto a rim. Is this correct? Each time they said the wheels were "slightly out" and made "the fix" that will "do it this time." ARGH!!! I'm about to find another shop and have them do it, at my cost. Is this really rocket science? Anyone have any tips or suggestions? Thanks for listening! Rob ************************************************************* List Commands UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). To issue a command/request to the server: Send a message with the command you wish executed as the subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. *************************************************************
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#9. RE: [E36M3] Where to stay near Laguna Seca - from Mel Silva
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Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 22:33:09 -0500 From: "Mel Silva" <melsilva@mindspring.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Where to stay near Laguna Seca Back in the day, ...(sniff) when I used to drive the local tracks, (wipes tear) I stayed at the Laurel Inn as well. Of course I didn't sleep much my first time at Laguna, I stayed like a kid on Christmas eve, to excited to go to sleep reading the track map pdf. If Dave needs a corner by corner description of the track, I can provide the link. email me privately. Now I live in Houston where the nearest real track is in College Station and even that is no Sears Point, Laguna Seca or even the 3 miles of bliss at Thunder Hill. I need to move back. Anyone got a job for me in CA? Mel -----Original Message----- From: donna seeley [mailto:dlseeley@earthlink.net] Sent: Wednesday, April 10, 2002 4:18 PM To: E36M3 Subject: Re: [E36M3] Where to stay near Laguna Seca Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 14:13:22 -0700 From: donna seeley <dlseeley@earthlink.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Where to stay near Laguna Seca I used to stay at the Best Western De Anza on Fremont St because it was near the host motel, but since I started towing I stay at the Laurel Inn in Salinas. Lots of room, a Black Bear diner next door, 8mi from the track and much cheaper. Now I stay there even when I drive down. Donna On Wednesday, April 10, 2002, at 01:37 PM, David Flanary wrote: > Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 11:43:54 -0700 > From: "David Flanary" <dflanary@markhamvineyards.com> > Subject: Where to stay near Laguna Seca > > I got into the Golden Gate Chapter's DE at Laguna Seca May 4-5. This > is a > new track for me, and I'm really looking forward to it. > > I have a list of hotels from the GGC website, but have no experience w/ > any. > I'm curious as to where to stay - don't need the fanciest, just clean > and > reasonable and close to LS. Anyone know where the club books for the > instructors? > > > David W. Flanary > Markham Vineyards > > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. > ************************************************************* > > ************************************************************* List Commands UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). To issue a command/request to the server: Send a message with the command you wish executed as the subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. *************************************************************
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#10. Re: [E36M3] Help!!: Cleaning Hawk brake pad residue from wheels - from Cheng, Margaret
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Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 20:32:21 -0700 From: "Cheng, Margaret" <Margaret.Cheng@kp.org> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Help!!: Cleaning Hawk brake pad residue from wheels Hi, Scott. Welcome to the ugly rim club... I also have this encrusted brake material on my BMW forged wheels (front rims worst) from PF97s, and also Kosei wheels (spec Miata) from Hawk blue pads. The wheels that don't seem to be affected by PF 97 pads are the IFG powder coated wheels--they wipe off just fine with a towel. Too bad IFGs aren't still available--they are worth it just in weight and "cleanability". After spending hours cleaning the BMW and Kosei wheels, what I can recommend is--just try not to worry about it. They are track wheels (hopefully). If you want to spend up to 2 hours per wheel (depending on the residue) or more, this is what worked for me. Rinse wheels to get off superficial brake dust. The earlier this is done, the better. Spray simple green and let sit. Go change your brake pads back to stock on one corner. Using a sponge with a slightly abrasive pad (I used the blue wavy one) lightly go over the dirty parts of the wheels. Best to have the wheels off the car. Feel good that some of the residue is coming off. Apply a little more pressure when it's apparent that it's not all coming off. Go do another corner brake pad change to rest your fingers. Now go find a plastic stick or non-scratching something that you can apply directed point pressure to the offending areas on the wheel. A wooden chopstick might work well for this. Tear the sponge off the abrasive material and throw away. Using the fine end of the wooden chopstick, apply whatever amount of pressure to the brake gunk via the abrasive pad. Continue the water trickling over the small area that you are working on. Apply more simple green and return to change out another brake pad. Vow to use stock pads from now on, whether or not they fade. Return to the wheels, applying more pressure to the chopstick this time, since your fingers are fresh. Go find another chopstick to replace the broken one. This is why they come in pairs. Continue working your fingers to the bone. The brake residue will now be coming off, but agonizingly slowly--enough that you are encouraged not to stop the project, but you realize that soon you will need a back transplant. Go rest your body by doing the last brake pad change, but first, spray more simple green on the wheels, in a futile attempt to speed up the project. In the waning moments of light, try to do the last bit of wheel cleaning before your fingers are permanently fixed in the same position. Pick splinters out of fingers. Vow to never try cleaning the wheels again. But, you are proud that you now have wonderful, clean wheels! ....Until the next track event. Good luck and don't say I didn't warn you... Margaret 1997 M3 with 3 clean wheels (I try not to look at the hopelessly dirty one) 1990 spec Miata with 4 clean wheels until I went back to the track, now permanently dirty... "Riley, Scott" <sriley@cardinalcapital.com> on 04/10/2002 06:57:57 PM Please respond to "Riley, Scott" <sriley@cardinalcapital.com> To: E36M3 <e36m3@bmw-m.net> cc: Subject: [E36M3] Help!!: Cleaning Hawk brake pad residue from wheels Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 20:48:31 -0500 From: "Riley, Scott" <sriley@cardinalcapital.com> Subject: Help!!: Cleaning Hawk brake pad residue from wheels After attending an autocross in the rain this weekend, I noticed what appeared to be rust buildup on my brand new Fikse FM/10 wheels when I went to clean the my M3 yesterday. I knew that Hawk Blues were known for doing this type of damage in the long run if they were not kept clean, but this is ridiculous. These wheels are used as my rain setup on my '95 M3 club racer and double as my transport wheels since they are mounted with Yok A032Rs. My wheels went from being bright and shiny after being purchased less than 1 month ago to looking like a brake rotor that had been sitting in the rain in the middle of a junkyard for 40 days and 40 nights. Luckily, only the front 2 wheels were damaged. Scott Riley #60 '95 M3 I-Stock rookie Dallas, Texas