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#1. Re: H&R springs question - from Neil Maller
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Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 23:12:51 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: H&R springs question on 4/10/02 10:47 PM, Rich Beebe <rich@beebecomm.com> wrote: > Any chance someone here knows the free length of the 29910s? Rich, About 9 3/8" for mine, which happen to be off the car at present. They do have a few track miles on them, so new ones might possibly be a tad longer. Neil 96 M3
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#2. Re: Help!!: Cleaning Hawk brake pad residue from wheels - from Neil Maller
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Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 23:19:14 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Help!!: Cleaning Hawk brake pad residue from wheels on 4/10/02 10:47 PM, "Riley, Scott" <sriley@cardinalcapital.com> wrote: > Does anybody have any suggestions of how to get this rust buildup off? Try "Soft-Scrub with Bleach." Worked for me, although my wheels weren't in as bad shape as yours seem to be. If that doesn't work you could try a chemical rust remover like "Magic Rust & Iron Stain Remover," but I'd use it on the inside of the rim first just in case. Hmmm, could this be the start of a new Bon Ami thread? Neil 96 M3
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#3. AutoPower roll cage purchased, on the way. Advice? - from Eric ///M Foster
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Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 23:54:10 -0500 From: "Eric ///M Foster" <e36m3digest@jedinite.com> Subject: AutoPower roll cage purchased, on the way. Advice? All, Just purchased an AutoPower bolt-in roll cage.(DOM not ERW). Any tips on installation or any "gotchas"? I've already got the information outlined here: http://www.ioportracing.com/e36m3-rollbar.htm and here: http://www.bmwclub.org.hk/techinfo/e36_rollcage_install.htm Just looking for any other h*lp or advice, before I get started on the install... Thanks, Eric ///M Foster bmw.jedinite.com
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#4. [UPDATE] Can anyone balance a tire correctly? - from Robert S. Hatrak II
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Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 21:58:35 -0700 From: "Robert S. Hatrak II" <hatrak@ix.netcom.com> Subject: [UPDATE] Can anyone balance a tire correctly? Today I went back down to the Discount Tire to give them one last try at balancing my new tires. After a good chat with the manager, all four of my wheels were pulled and put back onto the gsp-9700 to be road-force balanced again. Low and behold, all four were found to be out of balance. Duh! All of the weights on the wheels were stripped off and new ones were affixed per the Hunter machine. The tech assured me that this would do it. I told him I was going to go for a drive and come back. I would either come back angry, or with beer. Well, the tires were balanced, and didn't shake all the way up to 150 mph and then back down. Cool. The guys were all pretty relieved that I came back with some Bud Lights instead of an attitude. The only thing they could imagine was that after the tires were mounted onto the wheels, the "grease" they use to make mounting easier (get your minds out of the gutter) may have allowed the tire to rotate on the wheels and thus allow them to get out of balance. I don't know. But in the end, all is good. Thanks to Mel, Vern, Joe, Paul, Stephen, Doug, and Mark for giving me a lot of good info and ammunition for my talk with the manager. I hope I didn't miss anyone. Thanks again! Rob
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#5. I'm not a mechanic! - from Robert S. Hatrak II
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Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 22:12:32 -0700 From: "Robert S. Hatrak II" <hatrak@ix.netcom.com> Subject: I'm not a mechanic! Damn! While trying to replace a bent control arm today, I ran into a bit of trouble. The bottom bolt zipped right off with an impact wrench. Next, the top bolt came loose very easily. This project is going to be done in no time! Wrong. The top bolt is *just* long enough that it won't come out without unbolting the diff, and moving it out of the way about 1-2mm. Ok, no problem. Wrong. It looked to me that the rear sway bar would need to be removed in order to gain access to the diff bolts. The sway bar bolts all came out without drama, but without a lift in the garage, I wasn't able to get the car high enough to get the friggin bar out of the way. GRRR!! At this point I gave up and put everything back together. I guess the gist of this all is that if anyone wants to R&R a control arm, be ready for a lot more work that what the manual says it will take. Not a 30 minute job as it first appears. Not only am I not a mechanic, I also don't have the tools to play one on tv. Damn! Have fun in your garage. Rob
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#6. tune up parts for sale - from Jay L.
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Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 23:13:14 -0700 (PDT) From: "Jay L." <joong@yahoo.com> Subject: tune up parts for sale Emptying out garage: 6 Bosch spark plugs for 96-99 M3 OEM Pollen Filter for all E36. (4) Mahle Oil Filters for all E36 M3, 325, 328 2 liters of fresh Ate Blue brake fluid All parts are new, $80. Prefer SF Bay Area pickup but will ship. Thanks Jay __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Tax Center - online filing with TurboTax http://taxes.yahoo.com/
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#7. Re: [E36M3] I'm not a mechanic! - from James Mckenna
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Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 04:11:09 -0400 From: James Mckenna <shutupkid@comcast.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] I'm not a mechanic! humm, i plan to replace my trailing arm bushigns and sway bars this weekend.. must the whole arm be removed to replace the bushings?? thanks -james ----- Original Message ----- From: "Robert S. Hatrak II" <hatrak@ix.netcom.com> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Thursday, April 11, 2002 1:17 AM Subject: [E36M3] I'm not a mechanic! > Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 22:12:32 -0700 > From: "Robert S. Hatrak II" <hatrak@ix.netcom.com> > Subject: I'm not a mechanic! > > Damn! While trying to replace a bent control arm today, I ran into a > bit of trouble. The bottom bolt zipped right off with an impact wrench. > Next, the top bolt came loose very easily. This project is going to be > done in no time! Wrong. The top bolt is *just* long enough that it > won't come out without unbolting the diff, and moving it out of the way > about 1-2mm. Ok, no problem. Wrong. It looked to me that the rear > sway bar would need to be removed in order to gain access to the diff > bolts. The sway bar bolts all came out without drama, but without a > lift in the garage, I wasn't able to get the car high enough to get the > friggin bar out of the way. GRRR!! At this point I gave up and put > everything back together. > > I guess the gist of this all is that if anyone wants to R&R a control > arm, be ready for a lot more work that what the manual says it will > take. Not a 30 minute job as it first appears. Not only am I not a > mechanic, I also don't have the tools to play one on tv. Damn! > > Have fun in your garage. > > Rob > > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. > ************************************************************* > >
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#8. Re: [E36M3] Help!!: Cleaning Hawk brake pad residue from wheels - from slafredo
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Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 06:17:36 -0500 From: "slafredo" <slafredo@fast.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Help!!: Cleaning Hawk brake pad residue from wheels Not sure what you mean by "rust" but try some Meguairs #2. Just don't go crazy, it is compound after all. HTH. S > Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 20:48:31 -0500 > From: "Riley, Scott" <sriley@cardinalcapital.com> > Does anybody have any suggestions of how to get this rust > buildup off? Possibly, steam cleaning, simple green, etc. > My strong preference would be for a method that does not > harm the finish (Fikse's standard finish) of the wheel. > Unless, there is a way to restore the finish later.
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#9. Hawk brake dust and Fikse wheels - from bmwm3nut@att.net
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Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 12:00:04 +0000 From: bmwm3nut@att.net Subject: Hawk brake dust and Fikse wheels This I have first hand experience with. I have 2 sets of Fikses, FM10s and Dinan Fm5s I used the FM10s for about 3 years for track use then I STOPPED b/c THEY ARE SOOOOOO HARD TO KEEP CLEAN AND SHINNY. They are my street wheels now. I run Hawk blues and they will RUST with moisture so if it rains, your wheels and paint are toast!!! Wash your car immediately after the rain so the brake dust is off the paint and wheels. This is what I have used for my Fikse FM10 with hawk rust. It sounds really bad BUT no matter waht you use, YOU WILL HAVE TO RE-POLISH THE WHEELS TO GET THEM BRIGHT AGAIN. I tired all kinds of BMW wheel cleaner and nothing really worked and I tired simple green which is worst. I finally ended up just using BMW wheel cleaner and a non-scratching 3M kitchen pad. Spary the wheel claener directly on the pad and SCRUBBBBBBBBBB. Make sure you don't have any rocks/pebbles... that can dig into your wheels finsih. ITs way too much work especially the lip of the FM10s. I also use an old toothbrush with wheel cleaner to get into the nooks and cracks. It takes about 15 minutes/ wheel to get them really clean again. Then you ahve to polish them back up. I use Mothers wheel polish, works great and the wheel returns back to its bright shine. When you first wash/scrb the wheels, they MAY turn dull BUT it will polish back out. I have used my FM10s for 3 years BUT I got too tired of cleaning them so I got a set of BBS RC and a set of SSR comps. now for the track, they are SOOOO easy to clean. -- Tim Ng ,9 sets of wheels for 4 cars!!!! buys wheel cleaner by the gallons. 95 YELA/BUZZN/M3 92 325ic M-Tech "ULTIMATE TANNING MACHINE" 91///M3 "SUNNY DAY CAR" 88///M3 "TRACK CAR" AWESOME 2.5 ENGINE
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#10. RE: Breaking foglights - from Chip Mitchell
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Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 08:58:04 -0400 From: "Chip Mitchell" <chipm@arches.uga.edu> Subject: RE: Breaking foglights Don't forget breaking because of temp change. I've noticed that splashing through a puddle when the lights have been on for a while (and are very hot) does a great job of cracking the lenses. Not so much a problem in the rain, as it isn't a sudden temperature shock. ChipM -------------------- 8 -------------------- Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 17:48:19 -0400 From: "kitwetzler@mindspring.com" <kitwetzler@mindspring.com> Subject: breaking foglights > Stupid question, so where do the rocks go?? I'm not totally convinced that rocks are what break the foglights. I've had mine survive for over a year on the car, no problem. What breaks the foglights is scraping the front airdam on something. I mean, I accidentally bonked one with a hammer and it was fine... -kit -------------------------------------------------------------------- mail2web - Check your email from the web at http://mail2web.com/ .