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#1. Hawk brake dust and Fikse wheels - from Dorffer, Rich
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Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 09:45:53 -0400 From: "Dorffer, Rich" <RDORFFER@CleIndians.com> Subject: Hawk brake dust and Fikse wheels You may be able to get them clean again, but isn't the real problem the Hawk Blues. It is my understanding that these particular pads have a tendency to throw hot molten particles of metal when used. These particles embed themselves where they land. The closer to the pad they land, the more likely they are still hot and are able to melt into the surface where they landed. If they land further away, they may cool some and cause less damage. Hence, the wheels take the brunt of the abuse. In the case of finishes, they can melt through the clear coat/paint or they are able to melt and adhere to the surface where they cool. Add water and, ta da, you have rust. You may be able to clean them off, but it really does not address the issue of having a little cavities in the finish of your wheel / paint. This occurs regardless of whether you clean them instantly or they sit for a month in the rain. I assume they just seem more difficult to clean if you wait since the "rusting" gets worse over time, they particle has already embedded itself into the finish. I have also heard that this was more a problem with the old compound the Hawk Blues used but there was a new compound where this problem was minimized or negligible. How old are these pads and/or who supplied them, are they the new or old compound? Does it even matter? Regards, Rich 95 M3 - wishing it had a new set of Fikses (preferably FM10) 89 325is - Metal Master pads which also have brake dust that looks rusty when water is added, but the dust isn't hot molten metal!
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#2. Re: [E36M3] RE: Breaking foglights - from Chester Wong
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Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 06:48:44 -0700 (PDT) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] RE: Breaking foglights The method dealers usually use to test (if they even do that <vbg>) is to take a pencil and run it across the crack. If the pencil glides smoothly, the glass cracked from temp change. If the pencil gets caught, that was probably the point of impact of a rock. I have the thick 3M scotchcal stuff on there and it's been fine :) Chester --- Chip Mitchell <chipm@arches.uga.edu> wrote: > Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 08:58:04 -0400 > From: "Chip Mitchell" <chipm@arches.uga.edu> > Subject: RE: Breaking foglights > > Don't forget breaking because of temp change. I've noticed that > splashing through a puddle when the lights have been on for a while (and > are very hot) does a great job of cracking the lenses. Not so much a > problem in the rain, as it isn't a sudden temperature shock. ===== __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Tax Center - online filing with TurboTax http://taxes.yahoo.com/
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#3. RE: Hawk brake dust and Fikse wheels - from Riley, Scott
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Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 08:44:31 -0500 From: "Riley, Scott" <sriley@cardinalcapital.com> Subject: RE: Hawk brake dust and Fikse wheels From: Dorffer, Rich [mailto:RDORFFER@CleIndians.com] Sent: Thursday, April 11, 2002 8:46 AM "How old are these pads and/or who supplied them, are they the new or old compound? Does it even matter?" FWIW, I believe that they are the new compound as they were purchased within the last few months. There is still the possibility that the supplier that I bought them from had them on the shelf for an extended period of time, but I doubt it. Scott
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#4. E36 M3 shift lever - from Dorffer, Rich
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Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 10:34:25 -0400 From: "Dorffer, Rich" <RDORFFER@CleIndians.com> Subject: E36 M3 shift lever Attention all you people who have upgraded your E36 M3 shift lever which is now sitting on a shelf or junk box collecting dust ;-) I am looking for an original E36 M3 shift lever for a buddy to upgrade his E30. I did this same mod and it worked pretty good. Looking for a lever in good condition for a reasonable price. Please reply to me and/or to GRobWorkII@aol.com. Thanks in advance. Best regards, Rich 95 M3 - UUC Comp EVO shift lever 89 325is - E36 M3 shift lever PS - Anyone looking for a completely abused E30 shift lever with 130,000 miles, I have one in my junk box ;-)
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#5. re: foglights - from Michael Schaublin
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Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 10:27:58 -0400 From: "Michael Schaublin" <mike_schaublin@hotmail.com> Subject: re: foglights When my car was new, I'd break a foglight every 3 months or so. Then I stopped turning them on, and I have only broken one in 4 years. Mike _________________________________________________________________ MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
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#6. differential whine? - from Paul Elliott
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Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 10:43:16 -0400 From: "Paul Elliott" <elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net> Subject: differential whine? I know Ive seen a few posts on this, but I cant find them and I dont recall what they said...And, Im not even sure if thats what Ive got...But, for a while now, Ive noticed a kind of 'whine', only when the car is not warmed up yet, and only between 3500 and 4k rpms, when I accelerate briskly. It sounds like a hum or whine, of a moderate high pitch, only when accelerating, only when cold, and only between 3500 and 4000 rpms. When the coolant temp hits its normal warm point, the sound disappears. Im guessing its differential whine....I recently had the fluid changed...My instructions to the service writer for my Inspection II was to replace the fluid, using synthetic only...The receipt indicates that it was done, using BMW fluids, along with the transmission fluid. So, does this sound like what it is? If so, what is it symptomatic of, and what is the preferred course of action. Thanks. Paul Elliott --------------------------------------------------------- '99 White M3; < 45K miles; Dinan stage II SC kit with 6" RMS crank pulley: 11 psi; AA Water Injection; Fikse FM-10s; X-Brace; Dinan Koni Suspension; Stygar SS and Clutch Stop; Sound by Polk, Excelon, JLAudio
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#7. Re: [E36M3] H&R springs question - from Ahmad Lutfeali
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Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 14:49:09 +0000 From: "Ahmad Lutfeali" <m3_racer99@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] H&R springs question <html><div style='background-color:'><DIV> <P>Rich,</P> <P>With the Stage 4 rear springs, you can have a spring perch and adjust the height. I have a Stage 2 (Sport) springs front and rears with Bilstein sports. If you use Bilsteins, make sure the bump stops are trimmed. My car sits very evenly now. The rear tires is nicely tucked in the wheel well and the fronts sits agressively too. </P> <P>Is the ride rough? Yes. However the gains in overall handling offsets the disadvantage of a rough ride for me (Boston roads).</P> <P>A.L.<BR><BR></P></DIV> <DIV></DIV> <DIV></DIV>>From: Rich Beebe <RICH@BEEBECOMM.COM> <DIV></DIV>>To: <ALEX.FADEEV@VERIZON.COM> <DIV></DIV>>CC: <E36M3@BMW-M.NET>, <M3_RACER99@HOTMAIL.COM> <DIV></DIV>>Subject: Re: [E36M3] H&R springs question <DIV></DIV>>Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 19:56:04 -0400 <DIV></DIV>>MIME-Version: 1.0 <DIV></DIV>>Received: from [207.19.194.114] by hotmail.com (3.2) with ESMTP id MHotMailBE7E1BEF00BA4136E852CF13C27207E00; Wed, 10 Apr 2002 16:55:28 -0700 <DIV></DIV>>Received: from [68.65.118.68] (md-wstmstr-cuda2-c5a-68-a.wmnsmd.adelphia.net) by beebe.beebecomm.com (Post.Office MTA v3.1.2 release (PO205-101c) ID# 0-43378U100L2S100) with ESMTP id AAA353; Wed, 10 Apr 2002 19:53:22 -0400 <DIV></DIV>>From rich@beebecomm.com Wed, 10 Apr 2002 16:55:50 -0700 <DIV></DIV>>User-Agent: Microsoft Outlook Express Macintosh Edition - 5.01 (1630) <DIV></DIV>>Message-ID: <B8DA4954.ADB6%RICH@BEEBECOMM.COM> <DIV></DIV>>In-Reply-To: <OF7DA6B0A7.2A022FF8-ON86256B97.0062FE75@BELL-ATL.COM> <DIV></DIV>> <DIV></DIV>>thanks alex. that's exactly the type of info i was hoping to find. <DIV></DIV>>based on already reviewing ahmad's comments, i guess the spring height <DIV></DIV>>is a bit shorter on the 29936s then. if the spring rates of 375 and 360 <DIV></DIV>>are correct for the 29910 and 29936 springs, i don't see a 'noticable' <DIV></DIV>>drop being attributed to a 15 lbs. difference in spring rate. Any <DIV></DIV>>chance someone here knows the free length of the 29910s? i'll measure <DIV></DIV>>my 29936s tonight to see what they are. a friend of mine, who crews for <DIV></DIV>>tc kline, is also going to ask him about the 29910/29936 pairing. <DIV></DIV>> <DIV></DIV>>what struts/shocks were you running with your setup alex? that may have <DIV></DIV>>had more to do with your "choppy" ride than the springs, especially if <DIV></DIV>>the 29936s truly are 360 lbs. i'm putting these springs and SA konis <DIV></DIV>>on this weekend and i'll post with my impressions afterwards. hopefully, <DIV></DIV>>the car won't have it's nose up too high with this spring combo. <DIV></DIV>> <DIV></DIV>>thanks alex and ahmad. <DIV></DIV>> <DIV></DIV>>rich <DIV></DIV>> <DIV></DIV>> > From: alex.fadeev@verizon.com <DIV></DIV>> > Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 13:56:54 -0500 <DIV></DIV>> > To: Rich Beebe <RICH@BEEBECOMM.COM> <DIV></DIV>> > Cc: e36m3@bmw-m.net <DIV></DIV>> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] H&R springs question <DIV></DIV>> > <DIV></DIV>> > <DIV></DIV>> > Rich Beebe <RICH@BEEBECOMM.COM>wrote: <DIV></DIV>> >> <DIV></DIV>> >> I bought a set of H&R springs (used in great condition) a couple <DIV></DIV>> >> of years ago and I'm just now getting around to installing them. <DIV></DIV>> >> I noticed, when I checked them again, I have 29910 front springs <DIV></DIV>> >> (which is the correct 'sport' number) and 29936 rear springs <DIV></DIV>> >> (which is the rear spring for the H&R coilover setup. <DIV></DIV>> > <DIV></DIV>> > Rich, <DIV></DIV>> > You've bought a set of TC Kline's TrackLine springs. <DIV></DIV>> > This fact is not well advertised, but though TC lists TrackLine springs as <DIV></DIV>> > 29910 (H&R Stage 2 == Sports), the rears are actually H&R Stage 4 springs. <DIV></DIV>> > They are shorter and stiffer than 29910 rears, but H&R is not admitting to <DIV></DIV>> > their exact rate. Unlike 29910 fronts that have the rate printed on the <DIV></DIV>> > coils, 29336 rears only list the part #. <DIV></DIV>> > <DIV></DIV>> >> Now, the coilover setup says the rears have a drop of 1-1.75", <DIV></DIV>> >> obviously based on the adjuster. The 29910 rear springs are listed <DIV></DIV>> >> at a 1" drop (same as the 29936 w/o adjustment). Does anyone know <DIV></DIV>> >> if these springs actually have different spring rates and has anyone <DIV></DIV>> >> else run this combination by chance? Thanks. <DIV></DIV>> > <DIV></DIV>> > I've run this setup on my '95 M3 for a few weeks and had posted the drop <DIV></DIV>> > results in the past (don't have them handy right now). Either way, the ride <DIV></DIV>> > was very choppy, though wonderfully planted and controlled. I went to a <DIV></DIV>> > preseason autoX and took FTD beating a Dinan Stage 3 suspended (and <DIV></DIV>> > supercharged) car by a few thousands of a second. On track/autoX course I <DIV></DIV>> > was ecstatic with the TrackLine kit. However, after driving like that for a <DIV></DIV>> > few weeks, I took the H&Rs back out in favor of the stock springs and Koni <DIV></DIV>> > SAs. <DIV></DIV>> > Why you might ask? For one thing the ride on the Dallas TX streets was a <DIV></DIV>> > bit more than my 28 year old bladder could take. Make that a ride at sub 80 <DIV></DIV>> > mph speeds was choppy and rough. At sub 40mph speeds it was bordering on <DIV></DIV>> > unbearable. At above 80mph or on track it was perfect. As my car a partial <DIV></DIV>> > daily driver/weekend fun car it was spending too much time at sub 80mph <DIV></DIV>> > speeds and the H&Rs weren't earning too many brownie points. <DIV></DIV>> > Than came THE scrape. I pulled into a gas station to fill her up and <DIV></DIV>> > scraped the shit out of my M3 floor on a gas station man hole cover. The <DIV></DIV>> > first thought that crossed my mind was that I had left the oil pan on the <DIV></DIV>> > asphalt. Luckily, my front Eibach sways are protruding 3/4" below the level <DIV></DIV>> > of the oil pan and took the hit. As did the muffler in the back. The car <DIV></DIV>> > had survived THE scrape, but the H&Rs came out that very same weekend. <DIV></DIV>> > <DIV></DIV>> > YMMV, <DIV></DIV>> > alex f <DIV></DIV>> > <DIV></DIV>> > P.S.: With a set of TrackLine springs (29100 front and 29936 rear H&Rs) for <DIV></DIV>> > sale! <DIV></DIV>> > <DIV></DIV>> > <DIV></DIV>> <DIV></DIV></div><br clear=all><hr>Join the world’s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. <a href='http://g.msn.com/1HM505401/16'>Click Here</a><br></html>
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#8. Re: [E36M3] differential whine? - from Chris Papademetrious
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Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 08:10:00 -0700 (PDT) From: Chris Papademetrious <chrispitude@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] differential whine? Paul, my 95 has a diff whine too. Unfortunately, it whines when I'm maintaining a constant speed in 5th at highway speed. Slightly more/less throttle makes it go away. I've tried changing the diff fluid several times with BMW and with Redline juice, and the characteristic of the noise changes. It used to drive me nuts, now I don't notice it unless someone brings my attention to it. Wait... Arrgh! - Chris __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Tax Center - online filing with TurboTax http://taxes.yahoo.com/
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#9. Ground Control squeek - from TFRM3@aol.com
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Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 11:44:15 EDT From: TFRM3@aol.com Subject: Ground Control squeek Just wanted to let all the spectators know that I have been communicating with J. Evans to make his car silent. (In case you were wondering.) Jay Morris, who lives on a dirt road where perhaps the fine dust of summer lubricates everything just like graphite.
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#10. re: I'm not a mechanic! - from andy radin
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Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 08:49:29 -0700 From: "andy radin" <fourfa@mindspring.com> Subject: re: I'm not a mechanic! "...The sway bar bolts all came out without drama, but without a lift in the garage, I wasn't able to get the car high enough to get the friggin bar out of the way. GRRR!! At this point I gave up and put everything back together." You're so close! I jacked the rear of the car fairly high with a normal heavy floor jack (jackstands too of course), and had no problem getting enough room. I removed the rear swaybar brackets but NOT the upper links, and only had to pull it down a few inches at the rear to get at the diff mounting bolts. Then it's all of seven bolts (3 diff, 4 drive flange) to pull the diff back (support it with the jack). Seriously, you were about ten minutes from victory. "humm, i plan to replace my trailing arm bushings and sway bars this weekend.. must the whole arm be removed to replace the bushings?? thanks -james" nope, the trailing arm bushings are accessible without removing anything else. andy r. 98 m3/2