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#1. RE: I'm not a mechanic! - from Robert S. Hatrak II
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Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 09:02:33 -0700 From: "Robert S. Hatrak II" <hatrak@ix.netcom.com> Subject: RE: I'm not a mechanic! Doh....So close, but yet so far! I should have started the project in the morning instead of 7pm after work. I might have stuck with it longer then. It sure seemed hopeless last night! Rob -----Original Message----- From: andy radin [mailto:fourfa@mindspring.com] Sent: Thursday, April 11, 2002 8:49 AM To: e36m3@bmw-m.net; Rob Hatrak Subject: re: I'm not a mechanic! "...The sway bar bolts all came out without drama, but without a lift in the garage, I wasn't able to get the car high enough to get the friggin bar out of the way. GRRR!! At this point I gave up and put everything back together." You're so close! I jacked the rear of the car fairly high with a normal heavy floor jack (jackstands too of course), and had no problem getting enough room. I removed the rear swaybar brackets but NOT the upper links, and only had to pull it down a few inches at the rear to get at the diff mounting bolts. Then it's all of seven bolts (3 diff, 4 drive flange) to pull the diff back (support it with the jack). Seriously, you were about ten minutes from victory. "humm, i plan to replace my trailing arm bushings and sway bars this weekend.. must the whole arm be removed to replace the bushings?? thanks -james" nope, the trailing arm bushings are accessible without removing anything else. andy r. 98 m3/2
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#2. Re: [E36M3] RE: I'm not a mechanic! - from Chester Wong
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Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 09:17:12 -0700 (PDT) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] RE: I'm not a mechanic! Aaaah....the good 'ol projects that start after sundown. Just finished one last night...started the install of the Ground Control coilover kit at 8:30ish pm. *COMPLETED* at around 10ish...would have been faster if there was sunlight ;) Nothing compares to installing part one of Wayne's OBDII cam kit. Started at 8pm and finished at 3am!!! D'oh!....and work the following day =( Chester --- "Robert S. Hatrak II" <hatrak@ix.netcom.com> wrote: > Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 09:02:33 -0700 > From: "Robert S. Hatrak II" <hatrak@ix.netcom.com> > Subject: RE: I'm not a mechanic! > > Doh....So close, but yet so far! I should have started the project in > the morning instead of 7pm after work. I might have stuck with it > longer then. It sure seemed hopeless last night! ===== __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Tax Center - online filing with TurboTax http://taxes.yahoo.com/
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#3. GC Coilovers [was: I'm not a mechanic!] - from Robert S. Hatrak II
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Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 09:22:18 -0700 From: "Robert S. Hatrak II" <hatrak@ix.netcom.com> Subject: GC Coilovers [was: I'm not a mechanic!] Chester, How do you like the kit? How about doing a write-up for us? Rob PS. Does anyone else see replies to their posts before the original post that is being relpied to shows up? That has been happening quite a bit to me recently. Just curious... -----Original Message----- Aaaah....the good 'ol projects that start after sundown. Just finished one last night...started the install of the Ground Control coilover kit at 8:30ish pm. *COMPLETED* at around 10ish...would have been faster if there was sunlight ;) Nothing compares to installing part one of Wayne's OBDII cam kit. Started at 8pm and finished at 3am!!! D'oh!....and work the following day =( Chester
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#4. Re: differential whine? - from Drew Bamford
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Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 16:33:20 From: "Drew Bamford" <drewbam@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: differential whine? Paul, I just got my car back from the dealer yesterday, with a new (re-manufactured) diff. The new diff was covered under warrantee. My symptoms were not the same as yours, however. I had a whine that was most noticeable upon deceleration at around 40mph. Seems to be gone now, so I suppose that it was the diff, after all. The invoice said something about worn/mis-aligned differential gears. FYI, the dealer charged BMW around $2K for the replacement. drew | 98M3/4 with new, quiet diff and fresh ATE super blue for track season -- Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 10:43:16 -0400 From: "Paul Elliott" <elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net> Subject: differential whine? I know Ive seen a few posts on this, but I cant find them and I dont recall what they said...And, Im not even sure if thats what Ive got...But, for a while now, Ive noticed a kind of 'whine', only when the car is not warmed up yet, and only between 3500 and 4k rpms, when I accelerate briskly. It sounds like a hum or whine, of a moderate high pitch, only when accelerating, only when cold, and only between 3500 and 4000 rpms. When the coolant temp hits its normal warm point, the sound disappears. Im guessing its differential whine....I recently had the fluid changed...My instructions to the service writer for my Inspection II was to replace the fluid, using synthetic only...The receipt indicates that it was done, using BMW fluids, along with the transmission fluid. So, does this sound like what it is? If so, what is it symptomatic of, and what is the preferred course of action. Thanks. Paul Elliott --------------------------------------------------------- '99 White M3; < 45K miles; Dinan stage II SC kit with 6" RMS crank pulley: 11 psi; AA Water Injection; Fikse FM-10s; X-Brace; Dinan Koni Suspension; Stygar SS and Clutch Stop; Sound by Polk, Excelon, JLAudio _________________________________________________________________ Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com
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#5. Re: [E36M3] H&R springs question - from alex.fadeev@verizon.com
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Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 11:43:37 -0500 From: alex.fadeev@verizon.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] H&R springs question Rich Beebe <rich@beebecomm.com> wrote: > > what struts/shocks were you running with your setup alex? that may have > had more to do with your "choppy" ride than the springs, Rich, I'm running on Koni SAs and stock springs. Springs make all the difference in the ride quality, height (unless c/o) and handling. Shocks just dampen their isolations. > especially if > the 29936s truly are 360 lbs. i'm putting these springs and SA konis > on this weekend and i'll post with my impressions afterwards. Excellent, we'll compare our notes. > hopefully, > the car won't have it's nose up too high with this spring combo. It wont. I have pictures of my car with that setup that I could post on the net if anyone cares. alex
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#6. Re: [E36M3] Re: H&R springs question - from Rich Beebe
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Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 13:24:11 -0400 From: Rich Beebe <rich@beebecomm.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: H&R springs question Thanks to John and Neil for the spring length info. I'm interested in John's info, as it doesn't match Neil's and my dimensions. 8.5" sounds quite short for a 'sport' spring. I measured my 29910 fronts @ 10-10.25", depending on how you sit it on a flat surface, and my 29936 rears @ 9.25", which puts them just 1/8" shorter than Neil's. Does anybody know if there are any issues with Koni SAs and E46 RSMs? Just want to make sure the shock will fit that mount before I pick them up tomorrow. Thanks. Rich From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> > on 4/10/02 10:47 PM, Rich Beebe <rich@beebecomm.com> wrote: > >> Any chance someone here knows the free length of the 29910s? > > Rich, > > About 9 3/8" for mine, which happen to be off the car at present. They do > have a few track miles on them, so new ones might possibly be a tad longer. John Cloutier wrote: > Here is the free length info you are looking for for the H&R sports: > H&R Sport Eibach Pro BMW Euro > Rear (inches) 8.5 8.0 9.4 > Front (inches) 10.7 11.7 12.5
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#7. Re: [E36M3] AutoPower roll cage purchased, on the way. Advice? - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 10:32:07 -0700 From: Jim Bassett <jimbassett@attbi.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] AutoPower roll cage purchased, on the way. Advice? At 09:57 PM 4/10/02, Eric ///M Foster wrote: >Just purchased an AutoPower bolt-in roll cage.(DOM not ERW). > >Any tips on installation or any "gotchas"? > >I've already got the information outlined here: >http://www.ioportracing.com/e36m3-rollbar.htm >and here: >http://www.bmwclub.org.hk/techinfo/e36_rollcage_install.htm > >Just looking for any other h*lp or advice, before I get started on the >install... A few tips/pointers off the top of my head (I've installed 2-1/2 of these: 1 in an E30 M3, 1/2 in Donna's E30 M3, and the one in my 325) - Have several new drill bits on hand. Drilling the car is easy, drilling the cage is a PITA and you'll go through a couple of bits. - Have a dead-blow hammer or rubber mallet; you may need it to get various pieces "aligned" :-) - Metal-to-metal contact at all 6 mounting points to the car. Carpet, sound deadening, undercoating must all be removed. - Have everything out of the glove box before installing the cage; also remove any interior pieces now (sun visors, "oh sh*t" handles, etc.) - Having someone help with the main hoop install will make it easier. The rest can be done by yourself if necessary (BTDT). - Also, if you know someone who's done an install before, bribing them with beer to "supervise" may prove beneficial (or not :-)) That's all I can think of at the moment. Feel free to email with any other questions. Jim Bassett 1998 M3/4 - actually thought about caging & racing it...briefly :-) 1993 325is #44 KP
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#8. re: I'm not a mechanic! (long) - from RacerxJLing@aol.com
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Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 13:36:41 EDT From: RacerxJLing@aol.com Subject: re: I'm not a mechanic! (long) I just did the rear trailing arm bushings job on 2 95 M3's. The first set was a real bit*h esp if you don't have the proper tools to remove and re-insert the bushing. Gaining access to the bushing is a breeze. 1) Follow the write ups/manual to gain access to the trailing arm 2) To remove the bushing use a lot of muscle, GOOD metal (not wood) chisel, and heavy hammer, drill to remove the bushing....it's tough!!! 3) Inserting the bushing takes some ingenuity. We used a 6" C-clamp from Sears (BTW, they guarantee these as well since it will probably be bent/tweaked w/ this job)....buy at least 2 clamps. I also bought $1.25 metal 1" to 1 1/2" square plates from Home depot to put at each end of the bushing/trailing arm. We also used a HUGE socket...believe it's 2 1/4" so the bushing can be set in the final 5mm or so or use the oil filter remover that the write up uses but we found it cumbersome. A little note, this is NOT a quick DIY job unless you have done it before and have all the tools....we had a difficult time w/ the first set and that's WITH a mid rise lift/air gun/good set of sockets etc. BE PREPARED!! Private me if u need more info Jeff > "...The sway bar bolts all came out without drama, but without a > lift in the garage, I wasn't able to get the car high enough to get the > friggin bar out of the way. GRRR!! At this point I gave up and put > everything back together." > > You're so close! I jacked the rear of the car fairly high with a normal > heavy floor jack (jackstands too of course), and had no problem getting > enough room. I removed the rear swaybar brackets but NOT the upper links, > and only had to pull it down a few inches at the rear to get at the diff > mounting bolts. Then it's all of seven bolts (3 diff, 4 drive flange) to > pull the diff back (support it with the jack). Seriously, you were about > ten minutes from victory. > > "humm, i plan to replace my trailing arm bushings and sway bars this > weekend.. must the whole arm be removed to replace the bushings?? > thanks -james" > > nope, the trailing arm bushings are accessible without removing anything > else. > > andy r. > 98 m3/2 > > > > >
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#9. Tornado Fuel Savers suck.... - from James Clay
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Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 13:56:47 -0400 From: "James Clay" <james@bimmerworld.com> Subject: Tornado Fuel Savers suck.... about 3 Hp and 3ft-lb from your engine. Put it in for a dyno test - if it makes power, we will give it a shot! No idea if it actually helps with fuel economy, but it will not help the performance at all. Just a heads-up, maybe it works on other cars, not ours (E36) James ------------------------------------------------------------------ James Clay http://www.bimmerworld.com Engineered BMW Performance Grand Am Cup / SCCA / BMWCCA Racecar Rental Genuine and OEM BMW Parts (540) 639-9648 ------------------------------------------------------------------
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#10. RE: [E36M3] re: I'm not a mechanic! (long) - from Dames, Mark
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Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 11:05:05 -0700 From: "Dames, Mark" <Mark.Dames@PDO.Co.Santa-Clara.CA.US> Subject: RE: [E36M3] re: I'm not a mechanic! (long) RE: rear trailing arm bushings. I just did this per the instructions in the link below. The instructions are very good. My additional rec's: Make sure you buy all the tools and parts needed before hand. This can be done in two hours each side by an experienced person (and side two goes alot quicker) but plan on it taking a weekend if you're wading into unfamiliar territory. Ignore the comment in the link about not having to disconnect the brake line. You MUST disconnect the brake line in order to pull the control arm down far enough so that the bushing is visible/accessible for cutting. The below mentioned pipe wrench is necessary for pushing down the control arm once the 3 18mm bolts are disconnected. Note the notched hole that the brake fitting is anchored in. You've got to get this right on reassembly otherwise the brake line won't tighten properly. Not difficult, just not readily apparent when you take it apart. You'll need two 18 mm sockets and two rachets and/or one rachet and one torgue wrench or breaker bar to get the pin in the center of the bushing out. This thing is torqed to 85 foot lbs and you're trying to bust it loose while on the end of a hanging control arm (i.e. not stable enough to exert 100 lb torque from a single wrench) You need to have two wrenchs, one for each end of the pin so that you can stabilize the unit with torque in opposite directions. A 2 foot breaker bar really helps here. I found the air/impact gun didn't work in getting this pin to break loose. I tried a 3/8in drive impact gun, maybe a larger one would work On the 3/8 dia bolt (used for pressing, actually pulling the new bushing back into the control arm) don't just get an 8"in bolt, get bolts in decreasing lengths down to about 3". Since most 3/8 inch bolts are only threaded for the final inch or so of the bolt, you won't be able to tighten the bushing all the way back into the control arm with the 8" bolt. Make sure you get at least one washer that is larger in circumference than the entire bushing. A Washer that is the same diameter will put too much pressure on the interior rubber insert and damage it during the press-in procedure. The 65mm oil filter wrench that they use as part of the press-in assembly to get the new bushing into the control arm will probably break/fatigue and allow the 3/8 screw to pop through the center hole were the socket attachment is tack welded taking with it the socket attachment. Remedy is to take the broke off socket attachment put it on the opposite of the filter wrench, cover it with a large washer that is the same diameter as the inside of the filter wrench. When you buy (read: get a machinge shop to cut) your 3" x 3" x 1/4 thick steel plate (used for pressing the bushing in the last inch or so) drill a small hole, maybe 1/32 or 1/16 inch dia, in the middle of the plate. This will enable the screw from the two jaw gear puller you'll use, to remain centered on the plate as you're pressing the bushing in. On the removal part: The sawzall technique works well, but needs some fine tuning. You can't just drill a big hole in the bushing rubber and then insert the sawzall and cut down through the bushing casing. The rubber is too complaint/sturdy to create a big hole and the blade will bind, and there won't be enough room delicately manuever the sawzall. Once you drill a hole in the rubber. Use progressively larger drill bits to make the hole larger. At some point this will become ineffective because the rubber just seems to expand around the drill bit and close back up when its removed. Drill a hole next to the first one until you can get the two hole's to merge. After the two holes are merged, insert the sawzall blade. Use at either 5" or 6" wood cutting blade (A wood blade with big teeth, rips the rubber better. Metal blades will just heat up the rubber and make it smoke) Then cut in a circular pattern around the middle of the bushing until the center falls out. I've found that the sawzall won't cut well and/or the hanging control arm will thrash too much during the sawzall operation unless the control arm is stabilized during the cutting. Best way I found to do this is to take a large pipe wrench (2ft length) and grip the top of the control arm with it (control arm is square along part of its length making a perfect spot for the pipe wrench jaw to secure) Have a friend, wife, postman, hold the pipe wrench with some downward weight. After you've cut out the center of the bushing you've NOW got room to cut through the bushing casing so as to pop it out. Change to a metal blade (small teeth). Cut downward very gradually keeping the sawzall as flat as possible against the inside of the bushing casing. Goal is to cut through the entire height of the casing equally so as not to cut the control arm around it. You will nick the control arm to some extent but the goal is not to make a severe cut. Don't balk on buying a sawzall, its a GREAT weapon. You can demolish anything with it, metal pipe, wood, nails, tree branches. Milwaukee's the best. Their Quick change blade mount can't be beat. You may spend a couple hundred on tools for this, 6-8" two jaw gear puller, sawzall if you don't have it, misc washers, 65mm oil filter wrench, extra sockets (18mm is usually not in your standard metric set), breaker bar if you need it, the 3x3" steel plate,large pipe wrench if you don't have it, etc. But you'll save $500 in labor, and you'll be able to replace them again quickly. And those bushings WILL wear out again, especially with track duty. It's not hard in my estimation, just takes some attention to procedural detail Here's the write-up I relied on. http://www.tunnellracing.com/trailbush.html -----Original Message----- From: RacerxJLing@aol.com [mailto:RacerxJLing@aol.com] Sent: Thursday, April 11, 2002 10:38 AM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] re: I'm not a mechanic! (long) Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 13:36:41 EDT From: RacerxJLing@aol.com Subject: re: I'm not a mechanic! (long) I just did the rear trailing arm bushings job on 2 95 M3's. The first set was a real bit*h esp if you don't have the proper tools to remove and re-insert the bushing. Gaining access to the bushing is a breeze. 1) Follow the write ups/manual to gain access to the trailing arm 2) To remove the bushing use a lot of muscle, GOOD metal (not wood) chisel, and heavy hammer, drill to remove the bushing....it's tough!!! 3) Inserting the bushing takes some ingenuity. We used a 6" C-clamp from Sears (BTW, they guarantee these as well since it will probably be bent/tweaked w/ this job)....buy at least 2 clamps. I also bought $1.25 metal 1" to 1 1/2" square plates from Home depot to put at each end of the bushing/trailing arm. We also used a HUGE socket...believe it's 2 1/4" so the bushing can be set in the final 5mm or so or use the oil filter remover that the write up uses but we found it cumbersome. A little note, this is NOT a quick DIY job unless you have done it before and have all the tools....we had a difficult time w/ the first set and that's WITH a mid rise lift/air gun/good set of sockets etc. BE PREPARED!! Private me if u need more info Jeff > "...The sway bar bolts all came out without drama, but without a > lift in the garage, I wasn't able to get the car high enough to get the > friggin bar out of the way. GRRR!! At this point I gave up and put > everything back together." > > You're so close! I jacked the rear of the car fairly high with a normal > heavy floor jack (jackstands too of course), and had no problem getting > enough room. I removed the rear swaybar brackets but NOT the upper links, > and only had to pull it down a few inches at the rear to get at the diff > mounting bolts. Then it's all of seven bolts (3 diff, 4 drive flange) to > pull the diff back (support it with the jack). Seriously, you were about > ten minutes from victory. > > "humm, i plan to replace my trailing arm bushings and sway bars this > weekend.. must the whole arm be removed to replace the bushings?? > thanks -james" > > nope, the trailing arm bushings are accessible without removing anything > else. > > andy r. > 98 m3/2 > > > > > ************************************************************* List Commands UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. 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