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#1. StreetLine Suspension Impressions - from Darling Christopher Maj AMC/CEXR
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Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 13:33:50 -0500 From: "Darling Christopher Maj AMC/CEXR" <Christopher.Darling@scott.af.mil> Subject: StreetLine Suspension Impressions Amen! My suspension saga is finally over, with my TC Kline StreetLine kit fully installed (and tight this time.) I want to thank Neil Maller (and many others!) right up front who helped out with great advice. Neil gets the extra kudos for setting me up with instructions for fabricating the ESSENTIAL Koni strut tightening tool. My car is a 93K-mile, 1995 model (10/94 production) with stock 7.5 inch 10-spoke wheels all around, Bridgestone S-03s on the front and Michelin Pilot Sports on the rear. My current suspension configuration is as follows: StreetLine Kit (Koni SA shocks and struts and H&R OE springs), new 96+ rear trailing arm bushings with Ground Control spacers, X-brace, and BMW Motorsport strut brace. Sway bars are stock originals. Rear shock mounts are new E-46 type. I also installed new 96+ strut bearings on the "wrong" side, along with new strut tower reinforcement plates. My impressions (bear in mind I am coming from a 100% original, 7-year old shock/spring set): Chassis drop: not a priority for me as I hate to scrape over stuff, so I was glad to measure zero change in ride height with the new installation. But I've heard that over the next few months I can expect the car to come down a little bit as the springs compress. We'll see. My initial settings on the shocks were +1 turn (from full soft) on the front and the same for the rear. The ride was noticeably stiffer, nearly too much so for my taste for everyday driving. I'm only 36 years old, so not a complete, Buick-owning geezer, but this configuration is as stiff as I would care to go for the street. Ride is firm but controlled, and quiet. Little to no perceived increase in NVH. Body roll seems is significantly reduced! Turn-in is precise and sharp, and cornering feels practically flat. Steering feels quicker and more direct than before. But again: the ride was very stiff with both sets of shocks set at +1 turn. So I backed the front struts down to full soft. Now we are talking! This feels much better for street driving. Can still feel the slightly increased stiffness of the springs over stock, but the overall suspension is much more supple over expansion joints and potholes on the street. My plan is to dial "up" on firmness for auto-x, but keep the front at full soft for the street. Ride feels like it used to when the car was new, oh so many moons ago. (I find it interesting that changing the "rebound" firmness on the SA Konis had so much effect on the ride comfort. Seems counter-intuitive--seems like bump adjustment would affect ride comfort, not rebound. Whatever. Car feels fantastic.) Overall grade; two thumbs way up! I REALLY like the adjustability of the Konis. I'd hate to be stuck with too-stiff shocks and no way to tune them. Cheers, Cod Major Chris Darling HQ AMC/CEXR DSN 779-0698, Comm (618) 229-0698
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#2. re: I'm not a mechanic! (long) - from andy radin
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Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 11:41:44 -0700 From: "andy radin" <fourfa@mindspring.com> Subject: re: I'm not a mechanic! (long) "Ignore the comment in the link about not having to disconnect the brake line. You MUST disconnect the brake line in order to pull the control arm down far enough so that the bushing is visible/accessible for cutting." just to clarify, you do need to remove the brake line bracket from the trailing arm, but you do *not* need to remove the actual brake lines from the hard line and get fluid everywhere, air in the lines, etc. I agree that this is a little more challenging for the DIYer than most tasks, but doable and worthwhile. andy r.
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#3. Re: breaking foglights - from Joe Tan
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Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 11:41:57 -0700 (PDT) From: Joe Tan <mailjtan@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: breaking foglights I agree. I had cracked fog lenses that show no sign external impact. Which lead me to believe that the majority of the crack lenses is caused by heat from from the light bulb. Joe. ----------------- Kit wrote: I'm not totally convinced that rocks are what break the foglights. __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Tax Center - online filing with TurboTax http://taxes.yahoo.com/
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#4. RE: [E36M3] re: I'm not a mechanic! (long) - from Wayne Miller
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Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 14:47:19 -0400 From: "Wayne Miller" <m3@waynemiller.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] re: I'm not a mechanic! (long) I just read the postings about how to install the rear trailing arm bushings and I have one thing to say. Don't be cheap and just rent the proper tools from either Chester or Brett Anderson. It will be the best $50 (or whatever they charge) repair job that you can do yourself. I used the Sawzall/brute force method the first time and it really sucks. I can't even imagine it you don't have a Sawzall - good luck with a drill. With the proper tools, it is a piece of cake, doesn't take long and you will save yourself a LOT of frustration and cursing. I have nothing to gain by this because neither Chester nor Brett pay me a commission but trust me on this one. -Wayne P.S. If you really are up for a good time, try taking out the TC Kline aluminum monoballs once they have rusted in place ;-)
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#5. RE: [E36M3] re: I'm not a mechanic! (long) - from Chester Wong
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Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 11:51:04 -0700 (PDT) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] re: I'm not a mechanic! (long) Hahaha....and not crushing your pinky with a hammer!!! LOL! Chester > P.S. If you really are up for a good time, try taking out the TC Kline > aluminum monoballs once they have rusted in place ;-) ===== __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Tax Center - online filing with TurboTax http://taxes.yahoo.com/
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#6. TA Bushings - from Darling Christopher Maj AMC/CEXR
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Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 13:54:44 -0500 From: "Darling Christopher Maj AMC/CEXR" <Christopher.Darling@scott.af.mil> Subject: TA Bushings Mark wrote: "Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 11:05:05 -0700 From: "Dames, Mark" <Mark.Dames@PDO.Co.Santa-Clara.CA.US> Subject: RE: [E36M3] re: I'm not a mechanic! (long) RE: rear trailing arm bushings. I just did this per the instructions in the link below. The instructions are very good. My additional rec's: Make sure you buy all the tools and parts needed before hand. This can be done in two hours each side by an experienced person (and side two goes alot quicker) but plan on it taking a weekend if you're wading into unfamiliar territory. . . . " Mark, with all due respect (and all in good fun), but you are out of your freakin' mind! I admire your tenacity and ingenuity in getting the job done, but I'd rather poke myself in the eye with a sharp stick than willingly undertake the job you describe. I just got done doing my TA bushings on my 95 M3. Spend the lousy $50 and rent the proper tools from Chester Wong or Steve D'Gerolamo. This job isn't a weekend--it's more like 45 minutes per side if you have air tools. It doesn't make sense to me to buy sawzalls and other tools and trying to kludge the thing together when it can be done right very easily. My .02! Cod Major Chris Darling HQ AMC/CEXR DSN 779-0698, Comm (618) 229-0698
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#7. Re: [E36M3] Re: breaking foglights - from Matt Henson
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Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 12:09:26 -0700 (PDT) From: Matt Henson <hensonator@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: breaking foglights Yea, I think that in many cases the problem is that they get hot and then some cold water gets splashed on them from rain or puddles. If you use the stick-on clear vinyl protector (do an archive search if you don't know what I'm talking about) then it will decrease the temperature change speed and prevent the breakage. Good Luck, Matt --- Joe Tan <mailjtan@yahoo.com> wrote: > > I agree. I had cracked fog lenses that show no sign > external impact. Which lead me to believe that the > majority of the crack lenses is caused by heat from > from the light bulb. > > Joe. > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Tax Center - online filing with TurboTax http://taxes.yahoo.com/
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#8. RE: [E36M3] TA Bushings - from Dames, Mark
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Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 12:15:09 -0700 From: "Dames, Mark" <Mark.Dames@PDO.Co.Santa-Clara.CA.US> Subject: RE: [E36M3] TA Bushings I'd buy the "proper tools" if they were available. I've never seen a removal tool dedicated to this application described in any writeup. Pressing it in is actually quite easy. What's the "proper tool" you describe. -----Original Message----- From: Darling Christopher Maj AMC/CEXR [mailto:Christopher.Darling@scott.af.mil] Sent: Thursday, April 11, 2002 11:58 AM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] TA Bushings Importance: High Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 13:54:44 -0500 From: "Darling Christopher Maj AMC/CEXR" <Christopher.Darling@scott.af.mil> Subject: TA Bushings Mark wrote: "Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 11:05:05 -0700 From: "Dames, Mark" <Mark.Dames@PDO.Co.Santa-Clara.CA.US> Subject: RE: [E36M3] re: I'm not a mechanic! (long) RE: rear trailing arm bushings. I just did this per the instructions in the link below. The instructions are very good. My additional rec's: Make sure you buy all the tools and parts needed before hand. This can be done in two hours each side by an experienced person (and side two goes alot quicker) but plan on it taking a weekend if you're wading into unfamiliar territory. . . . " Mark, with all due respect (and all in good fun), but you are out of your freakin' mind! I admire your tenacity and ingenuity in getting the job done, but I'd rather poke myself in the eye with a sharp stick than willingly undertake the job you describe. I just got done doing my TA bushings on my 95 M3. Spend the lousy $50 and rent the proper tools from Chester Wong or Steve D'Gerolamo. This job isn't a weekend--it's more like 45 minutes per side if you have air tools. It doesn't make sense to me to buy sawzalls and other tools and trying to kludge the thing together when it can be done right very easily. My .02! Cod Major Chris Darling HQ AMC/CEXR DSN 779-0698, Comm (618) 229-0698 ************************************************************* List Commands UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). To issue a command/request to the server: Send a message with the command you wish executed as the subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. *************************************************************
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#9. Using the words "Sawzall and "Delicate" in the same sentence. - from TFRM3@aol.com
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Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 15:33:36 EDT From: TFRM3@aol.com Subject: Using the words "Sawzall and "Delicate" in the same sentence. " won't be enough room delicately manuever the sawzall. " Once you quit trying to use these two words in the same sentence, you will also find out that you can just shove the sawzall in there while its running and make your own hole. Ever see hyenas have sex? Same thing. Jay M
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#10. Re: [E36M3] Re: H&R springs question - from alex.fadeev@verizon.com
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Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 14:49:00 -0500 From: alex.fadeev@verizon.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: H&R springs question Rich Beebe <rich@beebecomm.com> wrote: > > Does anybody know if there are any issues with Koni SAs and E46 RSMs? > Just want to make sure the shock will fit that mount before I pick > them up tomorrow. Thanks. Rich, Do yourself a huge favor and buy GC RSMs instead of E46 ones. You will need to remove the rear Koni SA's from the car to adjust them and GC is the only RSM that will allow you to do that from inside the wheel well (not the trunk). alex f