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#1. Broken Exhaust Stud - from shane.a.kleinpeter@accenture.com
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Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 20:02:37 -0400 From: shane.a.kleinpeter@accenture.com Subject: Broken Exhaust Stud I realize that Ben Keyes had this same problem just a little while back, but I believe that Ben was dealing with an E36 M3 motor. I was installing my new Borla exhaust on the race car ('94 325i) this morning, actually trying to install it. I removed the exhaust, including both the cat and the rear can. One of the studs on the exhaust manifold (the part that attaches at the exhaust side, not the engine side) was already broken when I started. I was going to let this slide since there would still be two holding on, but the one right next to it broke as well, even though I took precaution by spraying liberally with penetrant before hand. So now I am pretty screwed, which leads me to: What do ya'll think will be my best strategy for removing what is left of the two studs from the manifold in order to attach the new exhaust? My initial thought is to grind the studs down to the flange, then drill out the bolt. Then buy a bolt for the M3 and knock it through the other side. The bolt in the 325i is an M10x35, and the bolt in the M3 (3.2 at least) is an M10x40. That extra 5 millimeters is because the M3 bolt passes all the way through whereas the 325i bolt seems to be screwed into the flange (which is why I can't just knock out the stud with a hammer). Any suggestions? Experience? Any h*lp is appreciated. Thanks! Shane Kleinpeter (did I mention that I need to have this ready for next weekend?) Please copy me on all responses. This message is for the designated recipient only and may contain privileged, proprietary, or otherwise private information. If you have received it in error, please notify the sender immediately and delete the original. Any other use of the email by you is prohibited.
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#2. ADMIN NOTICE AGAIN - SORRY!! - from John Rather
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Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 20:33:13 -0500 From: "John Rather" <JRather@chemsoft.com> Subject: ADMIN NOTICE AGAIN - SORRY!! <!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 3.2//EN"> <HTML> <HEAD> <META HTTP-EQUIV="Content-Type" CONTENT="text/html; charset=us-ascii"> <META NAME="Generator" CONTENT="MS Exchange Server version 6.0.5762.3"> <TITLE>ADMIN NOTICE AGAIN - SORRY!!</TITLE> </HEAD> <BODY> <!-- Converted from text/rtf format --> <P ALIGN=LEFT><SPAN LANG="en-us"><FONT SIZE=2 FACE="Verdana">Sorry everyone about the HTML crap;</FONT></SPAN><SPAN LANG="en-us"></SPAN><SPAN LANG="en-us"> <FONT SIZE=2 FACE="Verdana">as the admin I should know better</FONT></SPAN><SPAN LANG="en-us"></SPAN><SPAN LANG="en-us"><FONT SIZE=2 FACE="Verdana">!</FONT></SPAN></P> <P ALIGN=LEFT><SPAN LANG="en-us"><FONT SIZE=2 FACE="Verdana">For those who weren’t aware that they could search the complete digests using the search link on the website; I have added another ‘digest only’ search on the digest directory listing.</FONT></SPAN><SPAN LANG="en-us"></SPAN></P> <P ALIGN=LEFT><SPAN LANG="en-us"><FONT SIZE=2 FACE="Verdana"><A HREF="http://www.bmw-m.net/Digest/">http://www.bmw-m.net/Digest/</A></FONT></SPAN><SPAN LANG="en-us"></SPAN></P> <P ALIGN=LEFT><SPAN LANG="en-us"><FONT SIZE=2 FACE="Verdana">The new digest only search link is located at the top – ALL-DIGEST-SEARCH.htm</FONT></SPAN><SPAN LANG="en-us"></SPAN></P> <P ALIGN=LEFT><SPAN LANG="en-us"><FONT SIZE=2 FACE="Verdana">Please submit any questions/problems to</FONT></SPAN><SPAN LANG="en-us"> </SPAN><A HREF="mailto:admin@chemsoft.net"><SPAN LANG="en-us"></SPAN><SPAN LANG="en-us"><U><FONT COLOR="#0000FF" SIZE=2 FACE="Verdana">admin@chemsoft.net</FONT></U></SPAN><SPAN LANG="en-us"></SPAN></A><SPAN LANG="en-us"></SPAN></P> <P ALIGN=LEFT><SPAN LANG="en-us"><FONT SIZE=2 FACE="Verdana">Webmaster</FONT></SPAN><SPAN LANG="en-us"></SPAN></P> <P ALIGN=LEFT><B><SPAN LANG="en-us"></SPAN></B><A NAME=""><B><SPAN LANG="en-us"><FONT COLOR="#666699">John C. Rather</FONT></SPAN></B></A><SPAN LANG="en-us"></SPAN><SPAN LANG="en-us"></SPAN><SPAN LANG="en-us"><FONT COLOR="#666699" SIZE=2 FACE="Verdana"><BR> computer email -</FONT></SPAN><SPAN LANG="en-us"> </SPAN><A HREF="mailto:jrather@chemsoft.com"><SPAN LANG="en-us"></SPAN><SPAN LANG="en-us"><U></U></SPAN><U><SPAN LANG="en-us"><FONT COLOR="#666699" SIZE=2 FACE="Verdana">jrather@chemsoft.com</FONT></SPAN></U><SPAN LANG="en-us"></SPAN></A><SPAN LANG="en-us"></SPAN><SPAN LANG="en-us"></SPAN><SPAN LANG="en-us"><BR> <FONT COLOR="#666699" SIZE=2 FACE="Verdana">mobile email -</FONT></SPAN><SPAN LANG="en-us"> </SPAN><A HREF="mailto:jrather@chemsoft.net"><SPAN LANG="en-us"></SPAN><SPAN LANG="en-us"><U></U></SPAN><U><SPAN LANG="en-us"><FONT COLOR="#666699" SIZE=2 FACE="Verdana">jrather@chemsoft.net</FONT></SPAN></U><SPAN LANG="en-us"></SPAN></A><SPAN LANG="en-us"></SPAN><SPAN LANG="en-us"></SPAN><SPAN LANG="en-us"><BR> </SPAN><SPAN LANG="en-us"><B></B></SPAN><SPAN LANG="en-us"><B></B></SPAN><B><SPAN LANG="en-us"><FONT COLOR="#3366FF" SIZE=2 FACE="Verdana">920.431.0003 - work</FONT></SPAN></B><SPAN LANG="en-us"></SPAN><SPAN LANG="en-us"></SPAN><SPAN LANG="en-us"><FONT SIZE=2 FACE="Verdana"><BR> </FONT></SPAN><SPAN LANG="en-us"><B></B></SPAN><SPAN LANG="en-us"><B></B></SPAN><B><SPAN LANG="en-us"><FONT COLOR="#FF0000" SIZE=2 FACE="Verdana">408.515.6373 - mobile</FONT></SPAN></B><SPAN LANG="en-us"></SPAN><SPAN LANG="en-us"></SPAN><SPAN LANG="en-us"><BR> <BR> </SPAN><SPAN LANG="en-us"></SPAN><A HREF="http://www.chemsoft.com/"><SPAN LANG="en-us"></SPAN><SPAN LANG="en-us"><U></U></SPAN><U><SPAN LANG="en-us"><FONT COLOR="#FF6600" SIZE=2 FACE="Verdana">http://www.chemsoft.com/</FONT></SPAN></U><SPAN LANG="en-us"></SPAN></A><SPAN LANG="en-us"></SPAN><SPAN LANG="en-us"></SPAN><SPAN LANG="en-us"><FONT COLOR="#FF6600" SIZE=2 FACE="Verdana"> - Software Development<BR> </FONT></SPAN><SPAN LANG="en-us"></SPAN><A HREF="http://www.chemsoft.net/"><SPAN LANG="en-us"></SPAN><SPAN LANG="en-us"><U></U></SPAN><U><SPAN LANG="en-us"><FONT COLOR="#FF6600" SIZE=2 FACE="Verdana">http://www.chemsoft.net/</FONT></SPAN></U><SPAN LANG="en-us"></SPAN></A><SPAN LANG="en-us"></SPAN><SPAN LANG="en-us"></SPAN><SPAN LANG="en-us"><FONT COLOR="#FF6600" SIZE=2 FACE="Verdana"> - Internet Services</FONT></SPAN><SPAN LANG="en-us"></SPAN><SPAN LANG="en-us"></SPAN><SPAN LANG="en-us"></SPAN></P> <P ALIGN=LEFT><SPAN LANG="en-us"></SPAN></P> </BODY> </HTML>
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#3. spare dme - from Paul Elliott
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Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 22:16:58 -0400 From: "Paul Elliott" <elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net> Subject: spare dme >>Paul, this won't help you at all. The OBDII DME's are indeed coded from the factory and are not interchangeable unless you name's Conforti. How about the Shark Injector? You don't even have to pull the darned thing out and skin your knuckles<< What do you mean? Do you mean that you cant replace a physical dme with another, either with the same programming on board, or different? Then what happens if youre dme is faulty, and bmw wants to replace it? Clearly, it CAN be replaced..I just wanted to know whats involved , ie, is there some kind of initialization scheme which must be overcome, or learned? etc... Paul Elliott --------------------------------------------------------- '99 White M3; < 45K miles; Dinan stage II SC kit with 6" RMS crank pulley: 11 psi; AA Water Injection; Fikse FM-10s; X-Brace; Dinan Koni Suspension; Stygar SS and Clutch Stop; Sound by Polk, Excelon, JLAudio
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#4. Re: [E36M3] Broken Exhaust Stud - from Chester Wong
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Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 20:45:58 -0700 (PDT) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Broken Exhaust Stud Aaaahhh....right up my alley. That bolt is press fit in. You might be able to coax it out by heating the surround with a torch or something. What I ended up doing (well, Wayne, really) was removing the whole exhaust manifold to take it to something solid and hitting it hard with a hammer. The thing then popped out. I wasn't comfortable hitting so hard with a hammer while it was attached to the engine. Anyway, a new exhaust bolt (you can't get anything similar to the original one...so now it's a nut and bolt) is pretty friggin expensive...something like $15!!! I have an extra one that I'd sell for $10 ;) HTH, Chester --- shane.a.kleinpeter@accenture.com wrote: > Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 20:02:37 -0400 > From: shane.a.kleinpeter@accenture.com > Subject: Broken Exhaust Stud > > > I realize that Ben Keyes had this same problem just a little while back, > but I believe that Ben was dealing with an E36 M3 motor. I was installing > my new Borla exhaust on the race car ('94 325i) this morning, actually > trying to install it. I removed the exhaust, including both the cat and > the rear can. One of the studs on the exhaust manifold (the part that > attaches at the exhaust side, not the engine side) was already broken when > I started. I was going to let this slide since there would still be two > holding on, but the one right next to it broke as well, even though I took > precaution by spraying liberally with penetrant before hand. So now I am > pretty screwed, which leads me to: > > What do ya'll think will be my best strategy for removing what is left of > the two studs from the manifold in order to attach the new exhaust? > > My initial thought is to grind the studs down to the flange, then drill out > the bolt. Then buy a bolt for the M3 and knock it through the other side. > The bolt in the 325i is an M10x35, and the bolt in the M3 (3.2 at least) is > an M10x40. That extra 5 millimeters is because the M3 bolt passes all the > way through whereas the 325i bolt seems to be screwed into the flange > (which is why I can't just knock out the stud with a hammer). > > Any suggestions? Experience? Any h*lp is appreciated. > > Thanks! > > Shane Kleinpeter > > (did I mention that I need to have this ready for next weekend?) > > Please copy me on all responses. > > This message is for the designated recipient only and may contain > privileged, proprietary, or otherwise private information. If you have > received it in error, please notify the sender immediately and delete the > original. Any other use of the email by you is prohibited. > > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. > ************************************************************* > > ===== __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Tax Center - online filing with TurboTax http://taxes.yahoo.com/
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#5. Re: [E36M3] Modded 95 M3 vs Stock 99 M3 ?? - from Michael
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Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 23:48:58 -0400 From: "Michael" <95m3ltw@charter.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Modded 95 M3 vs Stock 99 M3 ?? A car length is close enough that it could be due to manufactoring tolerances. Racing 95 M3s side to side can show up to 2-3 car lengths for identical setups. The way to test the 99 to see if it has been flashed, is to watch the redline. I think it is 7000 after being flashed. But if I was a betting man, my money would be on the 95 smoking the 99 from 60-90. I know I have in my old 95 M3 many times with just a Conforti chip/intake. The OBDII cars really feel flat above 5500 compared to a 95 pulling hard to redline. Mike 95 M3 LTW ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mike Tse" <phid_bombadier@hotmail.com> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Sunday, April 14, 2002 7:17 PM Subject: [E36M3] Modded 95 M3 vs Stock 99 M3 ?? > Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 18:57:19 -0400 > From: "Mike Tse" <phid_bombadier@hotmail.com> > Subject: Modded 95 M3 vs Stock 99 M3 ?? > > Does this make sense? > > So here's the setup: (ignoring handling) > > 95 M3 - Euro Conforti HFM intake, 96+ Exhaust, E30 flywheel/clutch, 3.38 > Diff. > > 99 M3- Bone Stock as far as we know (no intake, no exhaust). > > Similar mileage in the mid 50Ks. > > Didn't have time/ roads to do full comparisons, but here's what the butt > dyno says. > > 99M3 definately pulls much stronger in every gear (Of couse due to the more > torquey engine) > > 95M3 makes power (more than 99, who knows??) after 4k. > > Side by side 4th gear, 60mph-90mph, WOT, 99M3 pulls away a car length then > we pace... > > Both drivers agree that the 99M3 feels stronger in general. > > We'll test further tomorrow, but just wondering what other people's thoughts > are. Is there something wrong with the 95, or are these characteristics > possible/correct? > > Now even if the 99M3 has a chip (flashed), does this still make sense? > > I always assumed a 95 with the Euro Conforti HFM system would be putting out > more power than a stock 99 (chipped w/o intake or not). > > (95 feels like it bogs below 3500 RPM but it's always felt this way.) > > Time for Cams I guess... > > Any input would be appreciated. > Thanks. > > --- > Mike Tse > 95 M3 UUC/SS - M20 Flywheel/E30M3 Clutch > BMWCCA NJ (Soon MA) > > > > > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > Join the world's largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. > http://www.hotmail.com > > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. > ************************************************************* > >
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#6. RE: [E36M3] 95 M3 Alignment - from Mo Karamat
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Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 00:08:33 -0400 From: Mo Karamat <karamatm@optonline.net> Subject: RE: [E36M3] 95 M3 Alignment Dear All, I am REALLY confused now.. I have a 98/4 that is about to get a new TC Kline street line kit, and I was told to use the 95 M3 front strut mounts because THEY give 1.5 degrees of negative camber? So who is correct? What about the strut hats that GC makes, are they any better than the stock ones? Thanks Mo -------------------- 1 -------------------- Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2002 14:42:32 -0700 From: Jim Bassett <jimbassett@attbi.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] 95 M3 Alignment At 02:07 PM 4/12/02, Chuck Hanson wrote: >Okay, I give. Will someone please explain to an E36 Newbie just what >"swapping the 96+ hats" means and whay does it give negative camber? Any >problems with doing it? On the front struts, the top portion that bolts up to the shock tower is commonly refered to the "hat". On 96+ M3s, you can swap them L<->R and gain about 1 - 1.5 degrees of additional neg camber. This can be a good compromise setting for street & track. (For reference, I had about 2.5 degrees neg camber with the swapped hats, 0.9 degrees with them back in stock configuration.) I had the hats swapped for about 3 years and it seemed to work well on the track. It was OK for the street, but I have 8.5" wheels all around, so that facilitated rotating & flipping the tires to lengthen their life. The main downside is increased wear on the inside edge of the front tires. Hope that helps, Jim Bassett 1998 M3/4 - retired form the track, returning to a more stock-ish configuration 1993 325is #44 KP - stock? what's that? :-) -------------------- 2 --------------------
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#7. Re: [E36M3] 95 M3 Alignment - from Chris Teague
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Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 21:24:34 -0700 From: "Chris Teague" <cteague@cox.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] 95 M3 Alignment Mo, I have a 97 M3/4 with the 95 hats. They give about 1.5-2 degrees *total* camber. Using the 96 up hats, and swapping L/R will give you even more, like 2.5-3 degrees. What Jim was saying was that swapping the hats on a 96 up will give you 1.0-1.5 *additional* camber, so add 1 degree if that's what your car had stock. So on your 98, take your pick of using a 95 hat for about 1 degree more, or swapping hats for about 2 degrees more than stock. Hope that clears things up. Chris 97 M3/4 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mo Karamat" <karamatm@optonline.net> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Sunday, April 14, 2002 9:17 PM Subject: RE: [E36M3] 95 M3 Alignment > Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 00:08:33 -0400 > From: Mo Karamat <karamatm@optonline.net> > Subject: RE: [E36M3] 95 M3 Alignment > > Dear All, > > I am REALLY confused now.. I have a 98/4 that is about to get a new TC > Kline street line kit, and I was told to use the 95 M3 front strut mounts > because THEY give 1.5 degrees of negative camber? So who is correct? What > about the strut hats that GC makes, are they any better than the stock ones? > > Thanks > Mo >
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#8. RTB tools - from James Mckenna
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Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 01:28:12 -0400 From: James Mckenna <shutupkid@comcast.net> Subject: RTB tools will anybody lend me the tools needed to replace the trailing arm bushings? ----- Original Message ----- From: "Chester Wong" <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Sunday, April 14, 2002 11:47 PM Subject: Re: [E36M3] Broken Exhaust Stud > Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 20:45:58 -0700 (PDT) > From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Broken Exhaust Stud > > Aaaahhh....right up my alley. That bolt is press fit in. You might be able to > coax it out by heating the surround with a torch or something. What I ended up > doing (well, Wayne, really) was removing the whole exhaust manifold to take it > to something solid and hitting it hard with a hammer. The thing then popped > out. I wasn't comfortable hitting so hard with a hammer while it was attached > to the engine. Anyway, a new exhaust bolt (you can't get anything similar to > the original one...so now it's a nut and bolt) is pretty friggin > expensive...something like $15!!! I have an extra one that I'd sell for $10 ;) > > HTH, > Chester > > --- shane.a.kleinpeter@accenture.com wrote: > > Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 20:02:37 -0400 > > From: shane.a.kleinpeter@accenture.com > > Subject: Broken Exhaust Stud > > > > > > I realize that Ben Keyes had this same problem just a little while back, > > but I believe that Ben was dealing with an E36 M3 motor. I was installing > > my new Borla exhaust on the race car ('94 325i) this morning, actually > > trying to install it. I removed the exhaust, including both the cat and > > the rear can. One of the studs on the exhaust manifold (the part that > > attaches at the exhaust side, not the engine side) was already broken when > > I started. I was going to let this slide since there would still be two > > holding on, but the one right next to it broke as well, even though I took > > precaution by spraying liberally with penetrant before hand. So now I am > > pretty screwed, which leads me to: > > > > What do ya'll think will be my best strategy for removing what is left of > > the two studs from the manifold in order to attach the new exhaust? > > > > My initial thought is to grind the studs down to the flange, then drill out > > the bolt. Then buy a bolt for the M3 and knock it through the other side. > > The bolt in the 325i is an M10x35, and the bolt in the M3 (3.2 at least) is > > an M10x40. That extra 5 millimeters is because the M3 bolt passes all the > > way through whereas the 325i bolt seems to be screwed into the flange > > (which is why I can't just knock out the stud with a hammer). > > > > Any suggestions? Experience? Any h*lp is appreciated. > > > > Thanks! > > > > Shane Kleinpeter > > > > (did I mention that I need to have this ready for next weekend?) > > > > Please copy me on all responses. > > > > This message is for the designated recipient only and may contain > > privileged, proprietary, or otherwise private information. If you have > > received it in error, please notify the sender immediately and delete the > > original. Any other use of the email by you is prohibited. > > > > > > > > ************************************************************* > > List Commands > > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > > > To issue a command/request to the server: > > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > > subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. > > ************************************************************* > > > > > > > ===== > > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Yahoo! Tax Center - online filing with TurboTax > http://taxes.yahoo.com/ > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. > ************************************************************* > >
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#9. 95 vs 99 - from Richard Sperry
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Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 08:59:46 -0400 From: Richard Sperry <richardsperry@comcast.net> Subject: 95 vs 99 That makes no sense at all. With a 3.38 rear, plus the other mods, you should spank a 99. I know that there is a slight torque advantage for the 99 in stock form, but that should be more than off set by the 3.38 diff. Methinks I smell something foul about. Rich -------------------- 9 -------------------- Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 18:57:19 -0400 From: "Mike Tse" <phid_bombadier@hotmail.com> Subject: Modded 95 M3 vs Stock 99 M3 ?? Does this make sense? So here's the setup: (ignoring handling) 95 M3 - Euro Conforti HFM intake, 96+ Exhaust, E30 flywheel/clutch, 3.38 Diff. 99 M3- Bone Stock as far as we know (no intake, no exhaust). Similar mileage in the mid 50Ks. Didn't have time/ roads to do full comparisons, but here's what the butt dyno says. 99M3 definately pulls much stronger in every gear (Of couse due to the more torquey engine) 95M3 makes power (more than 99, who knows??) after 4k. Side by side 4th gear, 60mph-90mph, WOT, 99M3 pulls away a car length then we pace...
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#10. Roll bar, bolt or weld in - from bmw
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Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 06:25:58 -0700 (PDT) From: bmw <m3lawdawg@yahoo.com> Subject: Roll bar, bolt or weld in I'm looking at putting a roll bar into my 95 M3, what is the best way to mount it, weld in or bolt in. Also I was trying to find info on the web for the roll bar made by Bimmerhause. Tony __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Tax Center - online filing with TurboTax http://taxes.yahoo.com/