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#1. RE: [E36M3] 95 M3 Alignment - from Robert S. Hatrak II
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Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 12:50:19 -0700 From: "Robert S. Hatrak II" <hatrak@ix.netcom.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] 95 M3 Alignment I had another thought about Chris' camber problem. Check to see if the arrows on the front strut bearings are both facing the same direction. Since yours are reversed, they should be both pointing at the back of the car. It sounds to me like your LF strut bearing is installed with the arrow pointed back, and the RF strut bearing pointed ahead. Check it and see. Rob -----Original Message----- From: Darling Christopher Maj AMC/CEXR [mailto:Christopher.Darling@scott.af.mil] Sent: Friday, April 12, 2002 11:18 AM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] 95 M3 Alignment Importance: High Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2002 13:08:18 -0500 From: "Darling Christopher Maj AMC/CEXR" <Christopher.Darling@scott.af.mil> Subject: 95 M3 Alignment Ok, I just got my car aligned at the dealer after my StreetLine installation. Something weird here. Here's the report just I got back from the cosmic new alignment machine they got last month. Rear: Right toe: .26 inch in Left toe: .25 inch in Total toe: .50 inch in Right camber: -1.9 degrees Left camber: - 2.2 degrees Front: Right toe: .01 inch in Left toe: .01 inch in Total toe: .01 inch in Right camber: -1.5 degrees Left camber: +1.2 degrees (!!) WTF? Everything looks reasonable to me except front camber. I couldn't believe the number he was showing for the left front. Visually, the left front "looks" like it has slight negative camber, and it "looks" symmetrical to the right side. FYI, I installed the 96+ strut hats on the "wrong" sides, so right side camber was what I expected to see. Also, I told them I wanted as much negative rear camber as I could get with the adjustment bolts and he said that's what he did. Don't understand why the measurements would be different from right rear to left rear, but he said, "that's how it turns out sometimes." Comments? Cod Major Chris Darling HQ AMC/CEXR DSN 779-0698, Comm (618) 229-0698 ************************************************************* List Commands UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). To issue a command/request to the server: Send a message with the command you wish executed as the subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. *************************************************************
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#2. Rattling underneath car, revisited - from Andrej Dolenc
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Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 15:59:34 -0500 From: Andrej Dolenc <adolenc@erols.com> Subject: Rattling underneath car, revisited Gruppe, This topic came up on the list a short bit ago, somebody asking about a rattling underneath their car. I had a similar rattle, emanating from what seemed to be dead center of the car, right about where the catalytic converter is. I took my car it in to the dealer today, they found a loose heat shield and replaced the whole catalytic converter under warranty (warrantied for 8yrs / 80000miles, at least according to the book in my car). Thanks for the responses on the topic, my car is now rattle free, at least in the area of the cat! Andrej '97 M3
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#3. FS: Seat covers - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 13:13:45 -0700 From: Jim Bassett <jimbassett@attbi.com> Subject: FS: Seat covers Posting for Bora: ============================= FS: Custom made seat covers for E36 M3 Vader seats, black denim, embroidered. Like new condition. 90.00 Email cosmosm3@hotmail.com, located in San Jose. Thanks Bora ================================= Contact him directly if interested. Jim Bassett
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#4. re: spare dme - from Alan Taur
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Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 13:24:42 -0700 From: "Alan Taur" <alantaur@yahoo.com> Subject: re: spare dme > A BMW dealer can re-code the DME using their MODIC tools to match the EWS > and whatever else checks the internal ID. Not sure if you can convince them > or fool them into coding two the same way, or if they instead code the EWS > to match an unchangeable code in the DME. Anyone? The EWS code in each car is the fixed property of the EWS Module itself, not the DME. When the EWS is realigned in a new/old DME, the tech plugs in the MoDIC to read the EWS code off the EWS Module, and it then recodes the DME to recognize it. For example, whenever a customer loses enough keys (each EWS box is assigned a total of 10 keys), a new EWS box is put into the car. The DME is then realigned with this new box and its unique code. The customer now has 10 more keys at this disposal. For those contemplating an engine swap (i.e. Euro motor), this EWS realignment via MoDIC, DIS, or Baum CS2000 is only step really in the conversion that necessitates the services of a dealer or properly-equipped independent BMW shop. Of course, for those of you who are transplanting a motor with a DME that has EWS into a pre-EWS car, your options are to: 1. rig up a EWS module/transmitter/antenna/key module that you can tuck away neatly somewhere that will send the proper code to the DME. Preferably, you will have all the EWS components from the donor car, so that you won't even need to do a realignment at a shop. 2. Get the DME reprogrammed to remove the EWS function. I've heard that Superchips can do this for Euro DMEs. The EWS system is all that mysterious, for those of you scared by it. There are many ways around it besides the two aforementioned solutions. Hope this helps. -Alan _________________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
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#5. recalibrate speedometer? - from Chris Huff
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Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 13:51:27 -0700 (PDT) From: Chris Huff <huffgroup@yahoo.com> Subject: recalibrate speedometer? I read in a recent car and driver that bmw speedometers read high in order to comply with some German law about never being too slow. Does anyone know if we can recalibrate our speedometers to be correct? I tested this by setting my cruise at 70 and then resetting my trip computer average speed (which is more accurate according to the article). The computer showed about 67-68 mph. Thanks, Chris __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Tax Center - online filing with TurboTax http://taxes.yahoo.com/
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#6. [E36M3] BBS RKs = new lugs? - from twisty M3
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Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 13:50:26 -0700 From: "twisty M3" <twistym3@hotmail.com> Subject: [E36M3] BBS RKs = new lugs? I was lucky enough to get a good deal on some BBS RKs, which I'll be getting this week. I called Tire Rack to inquire as to whether or not I'd need new lug nuts, and the sales lady didn't seem all that sure, so she she said "I'm sure you do..." then fiddled around on her computer to tell my which ones I should get. I'd just like to verify that she was right (and not just selling me something) before I order them. Anyone with RKs out there care to comment on the need for new lug nuts? Thanks, Jonathan L. _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp.
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#7. Re: WTB: 1995 M3 Techno Violet/Dove - from Carl Stern
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Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 15:08:10 -0600 From: Carl Stern <carl.stern@xilinx.com> Subject: Re: WTB: 1995 M3 Techno Violet/Dove I have a 95 Daytona Violet (the correct name) with the dove gray interior. It only has 17,000 miles, but by the time I drove it to New York it would have close to 20k. I might trade him for his job of Ferrari road tester. After all, isn't that every man's 2nd choice dream job? I wonder if I'll ever own a Ferrari? I see 20 year old 328s going for < $30k, but I think it is the cost of ownership that kills you. I've never actually even sat in one. Carl Stern
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#8. Re: [E36M3] BBS RKs = new lugs? - from Gerald Low
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Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 17:37:20 -0400 From: "Gerald Low" <gerry@parallel-mkt.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] BBS RKs = new lugs? Jonathan, Re: "Anyone with RKs out there care to comment on the need for new lug nuts?" Last year I ran RK's with R compound tires and used my stock lug bolts. So if you are not using spacers, the bolts that you have are fine. Gerry
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#9. Modded 95 M3 vs Stock 99 M3 ?? - from Ron Katona
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Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 17:58:57 -0400 From: Ron Katona <rkatona@bellatlantic.net> Subject: Modded 95 M3 vs Stock 99 M3 ?? Mike Tse wrote: > I always assumed a 95 with the Euro Conforti HFM system would be putting out > more power than a stock 99 (chipped w/o intake or not). Yeah, I think there's something wrong with the '95. I could see a stock '99 pulling a stock '95 just from tolerances from car to car, but any decent running '95 with the above setup will run about 265 hp. That should be enough to pull any stock '99 in any gear. If the '99 is chipped it could be close, but the '95 shouldn't be getting dusted. > 95M3 makes power (more than 99, who knows??) after 4k. > (95 feels like it bogs below 3500 RPM but it's always felt this way.) Hmmm... VANOS may be suspect on the '95 from those two statements. Don't overlook the easy things first though - changed plugs and O2 sensor lately? -- Ron Katona
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#10. Re: RTB tools - from Ron Katona
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Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 18:10:45 -0400 From: Ron Katona <rkatona@bellatlantic.net> Subject: Re: RTB tools James Mckenna wrote: > will anybody lend me the tools needed to replace the trailing arm bushings? No offense James, but if they do they are a very good friend indeed. There are wear items in the bushing tool set and certain parts can break from continued usage on old, frozen up bushings. Considering the price of the set (about $300) people who rent them out are generally getting replacement cost in return. If they're making money, it's not much. Offer to rent the tool from someone who has them. Koala Motorsports rents the tools out as does a lister here on the digest. You can also cut, pry, chisel, drill, and swear at the bushings a lot and they will come out - it just a takes a *lot* of time and effort. Putting them in is easier and can be done with a C-Clamp and a cup from a ball joint set. Again, easier with the right tools. -- Ron Katona