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#1. Re: Modded 95 M3 vs Stock 99 M3 ?? - from Ron Buchalski
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Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2002 14:01:02 +0000 From: "Ron Buchalski" <rbuchals@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: Modded 95 M3 vs Stock 99 M3 ?? Mike, You may have one or more marginal ignition coils. Take a close look at each one, and look for cracks. -rb >Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 20:56:05 -0400 >From: "Mike Tse" <phid_bombadier@hotmail.com> >Subject: Re: Modded 95 M3 vs Stock 99 M3 ?? > >Yes, I feel the same way, something is wrong with my car (perhaps the >driver >;) too). > >Vanos was replaced 10-20K ago (have it written down somewhere...) >Plugs around the same time >O2 sensor at the same time >(don't ask...in the attempt to hunt down a slight stumble at idle...) > >Still stumbles slightly. (feels like a little tremor in your seat from >time >to time at idle) > _________________________________________________________________ MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
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#2. Re: [E36M3] Questions on installation of BMW MRoadster/MCoupe - from George R Carr Jr
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Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2002 08:28:54 -0600 From: George R Carr Jr <georgercarrjr@earthlink.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Questions on installation of BMW MRoadster/MCoupe Foglight Kit >Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 21:07:04 EDT >From: Osbcso@aol.com >Subject: Questions on installation of BMW MRoadster/MCoupe Foglight Kit > >I had the #63 17 0 008 734 kit installed on my 2000 MRoadster, Prod 11/1999. >Everything works fine except the instrument pod foglight pictogram doesn't >work. The instructions say nothing about it. > >I had my current neighborhood dealer take a look at it. They pulled the pod, >saw there was no bulb in the foglight pictogram socket, and put in a bulb. >Still no operation. They said they could get it to work after 3 hours of >labor.......the same amount that I paid another dealer to have the whole kit >installed. > >Tried the BMW NA customer service line to try and get an answer from BMW NA's >"Product and Service Engineering Dept." But no go. No one is allowed to >talk to these folks. BMW is such a customer friendly company!!!! > >So.....my last resort is to get the installing dealer service manager 50 >miles away from me, to call into the Tech Support hotline to get an answer. >I would like the pictogram to work and I would have thought that a BMW >designed kit would have thought of that issue. I think that the installation >should have also gotten this part of the system to work also. > >Any body out there have this kit installed on their 2000 MRoadster or MCoupe? > Does your foglight pictogram work?? > >Anybody out there know of an Z3/MRoadster/MCoupe digest that I can float this >question to? > >Thanks...Chris Osborne >Ashburn, VA >BMWCCA #92573 > I would like it to work also but the kit does not seem to include it. Mine was installed by a dealer. I have not looked into a custom modification. Should not be that tough. George -- =========================== georgercarrjr@earthlink.net
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#3. Re: [E36M3] Is Conforti Chip Worth It in 99M3? - from George R Carr Jr
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Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2002 08:32:00 -0600 From: George R Carr Jr <georgercarrjr@earthlink.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Is Conforti Chip Worth It in 99M3? >Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2002 00:26:35 -0400 >From: "Michael Strauss" <mstrauss@nc.prestige.net> >Subject: Is Conforti Chip Worth It in 99M3? > >Looking to do just a simple mod to car since I got close to 4 years left >on my warranty (2 original / 2 CPO). So I just want to chip my 99M3 for >now. Is the Conforti chip worth it? > >Thanks... > My opinion: Yes, best money you can spend. George -- =========================== georgercarrjr@earthlink.net
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#4. Re: Rear brake dustshields/backing plates and Re: Brake Line - from JUSTIN GERRY
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Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2002 10:37:06 -0400 From: "JUSTIN GERRY" <JGERRY@butchers.com> Subject: Re: Rear brake dustshields/backing plates and Re: Brake Line Removal Do the back brakes really do much of anything? I have not had any heat or warping issues in the rear. Never heard of anyone else having problems either. I can't see it making much of a difference, on the other hand it will may allow the rear brakes to run cooler....but if it isn't broke... Re: Brake Line Removal Dont force it, because you will snap it off (ask me how I know). Use more penetrating oil. Make sure you can get a hold of a quality brake line flair tool and some ends just in case. I had to get a new left rear end and I had to get a splice put in on the left front. PITA. If have the patience let the penetrating oil do its job. I did not use enough of that ahead of time. Funny, my 20+ year old (at the time) rusted like you would not believe brake lines on my 2002 came apart much easier. Then again, I soaked the ends with oil for two weeks before I attempted to do anything. -Justin -- '76 02 (Whimsical) '97 M3 (Orion) BMW CCA#77056 check out http://users.vei.net/jgerry
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#5. Service Lights + Oil Change Confusion - from Mike Kanaly
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Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2002 08:19:15 -0700 From: "Mike Kanaly" <mike@worklife.com> Subject: Service Lights + Oil Change Confusion Hello Everyone! I'm new to bmw's, having just gotten my M3 about 4 weeks ago. When I got the car the service lights had 3 green left. Now I'm down to the last green. What does that mean? Should I schedule the oil change now? Or wait until it goes to the yellow? I have a rather long drive coming up, and was wondering how bad it is to drive well into the yellow service light? What kind of intervals are the service lights / suggested oil changes for these cars? Dealer spec + car enthusiast spec ;) On my last car, when I was lazy, I'd get the oil changed @ jiffy lube (I'd bring my own oil though) every 3000 + miles or so. What is the recommended time/mileage for a M3? If I go by the lights, what is that interval? Are the lights a good indicator? I'm capable of changing my own oil, but really haven't had the time lately like I used to. I'm thinking of going to the dealer for the maintenance. How spendy is that? What are the pros/cons of that? If I go to an independent shop, they won't have access to the car's database/background history like the Irvine bmw dealer would. I'm not sure the difference in price, so that may/may not be worth it. Also, if I take the car to the dealer, do they usually drive you back to work, and pick you up when your car is done? Or do they expect you to wait with your car at the dealership? What do most of you guys do? Any of you go to the dealer for oil changes, or am I crazy? -Mike
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#6. Part number for seat cable - from Paul D Agustin
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Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2002 10:23:19 -0500 From: Paul D Agustin <agustin@iaxs.net> Subject: Part number for seat cable I'm about to repair the broken cable in my coupes driver seat for allowing entry into the back. I went to the dealer yesterday and the parts department couldn't figure out which cable I needed. Can someone point me to the right P/N please. Thank you. Paul Agustin http://www.BimmerMods.com
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#7. Re: [E36M3] Part number for seat cable - from Robert Chay
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Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2002 11:37:16 -0400 From: Robert Chay <rchay@mindspring.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Part number for seat cable I think you need the Bowden Cable Part# 52 10 8 187 999. -Bobby ----- Original Message ----- > > I'm about to repair the broken cable in my coupes driver seat for > allowing entry into the back. I went to the dealer yesterday and the > parts department couldn't figure out which cable I needed. Can someone > point me to the right P/N please. > > Thank you. > > Paul Agustin > http://www.BimmerMods.com >
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#8. Re: [E36M3] Service Lights + Oil Change Confusion - from Robert Chay
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Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2002 11:49:32 -0400 From: Robert Chay <rchay@mindspring.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Service Lights + Oil Change Confusion Congrats on your new car! Most dealers will service your car or at least set an appointment for you with one green light left. You didn't mention what year the car was or if it was within the 3yr/36k mile maintenance program. If you are, I'd go to the dealer. If not, do you have time to do your own oil change? Most dealers will charge $50-$90 for an oil change. You have to remember that it takes 7 qts and not 4-5 like most other cars. I don't think I'd go to jiffy lube or places like that since they're not very good and I've heard stories about them not tightening the drain plug, etc. The SI (Service Indicator) lights usually go out after 7-10k miles from full 5 green lights. I usually changed the oil every 3500-5k miles. When my car was still under the maintenance plan, I would change the oil in between the factory services. -Bobby 98 M3 ----- Original Message ----- > > Hello Everyone! > I'm new to bmw's, having just gotten my M3 about 4 weeks ago. When I > got the car the service lights had 3 green left. Now I'm down to the > last green. What does that mean? Should I schedule the oil change now? > Or wait until it goes to the yellow? I have a rather long drive coming > up, and was wondering how bad it is to drive well into the yellow > service light? What kind of intervals are the service lights / > suggested oil changes for these cars? Dealer spec + car enthusiast spec > ;) > > On my last car, when I was lazy, I'd get the oil changed @ jiffy lube > (I'd bring my own oil though) every 3000 + miles or so. What is the > recommended time/mileage for a M3? If I go by the lights, what is that > interval? Are the lights a good indicator? > > I'm capable of changing my own oil, but really haven't had the time > lately like I used to. I'm thinking of going to the dealer for the > maintenance. How spendy is that? What are the pros/cons of that? > > If I go to an independent shop, they won't have access to the car's > database/background history like the Irvine bmw dealer would. I'm not > sure the difference in price, so that may/may not be worth it. Also, if > I take the car to the dealer, do they usually drive you back to work, > and pick you up when your car is done? Or do they expect you to wait > with your car at the dealership? > > What do most of you guys do? > Any of you go to the dealer for oil changes, or am I crazy? > -Mike > > >
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#9. Changing Diff Fluid - Help! - from jeff kumler
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Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2002 09:10:34 -0700 (PDT) From: jeff kumler <jdkumler@yahoo.com> Subject: Changing Diff Fluid - Help! So, last weekend I decide to do some regular maintenance type stuff on my M3. Go to change the diff fluid and hit a snag. I need a 14MM Allen for the drain and fill plug and I can not find one anywhere in Chicago. Can anyone recommend a good source for one that would not break the bank? I assume that it would be a 1/2" drive. TIA, Jeff P.S. I am on digest so please CC me on any replies. __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Tax Center - online filing with TurboTax http://taxes.yahoo.com/
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#10. Re: [E36M3] Lower Rear Shock Mount Issues - from Rex Tener
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Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2002 09:29:13 -0700 From: Rex Tener <rex_tener@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Lower Rear Shock Mount Issues At 08:57 AM 4/16/2002 -0500, JUSTIN GERRY wrote: >Just curious if anyone has experienced any problem with the LOWER shock >mount (I have Bilsteins if that makes any difference). >The lower shock mount has a rubber bushing with a metal spacer/piece in >center (that actually touches the bolt that mounts the shock). Well the >rubber bushing has moved and it is almost completely covering the >mounting bolt of the shock. The metal spacer is almost completely >exposed. I worry that the shock might blow off of its rubber mount. Bilsteins for the M3 have come with two different bushing retainers over the years. The early ones had a integral bushing retainer consisting of a rectangular washer pressed on the metal sleeve in the center of the shock. I got another set of Bilsteins last week, and they now provide a separate washer to retain the shock and bushing on the sleeve. <http://www.ninemisfit.com/vehicles/1996_bmw_m3/shocks/bilstein/bushing/retainer.jpg> You should be able to get a similar washer from any hardware store. Rex Tener
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#11. Re: [E36M3] Changing Diff Fluid - Help! - from John Van Houten
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Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2002 11:33:32 -0500 From: "John Van Houten" <lists@jvanhouten.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Changing Diff Fluid - Help! > Can anyone recommend a good source for one that would > not break the bank? I assume that it would be a 1/2" > drive. I looked briefly in Chicago, but I couldn't find one. I a Facom one from Steve D for a reasonable price. If you want to borrow mine Jeff, you are welcome to it. I live/work in the city. John
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#12. Re: [E36M3] Lower Rear Shock Mount Issues - from LoweSeaton@aol.com
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Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2002 12:33:54 EDT From: LoweSeaton@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Lower Rear Shock Mount Issues JGERRY@butchers.com writes: > Just curious if anyone has experienced any problem with the LOWER shock > mount (I have Bilsteins if that makes any difference). AH!! Bilstein!! Let me tell you what I think. :-) Jerry - Your lower shock mount is sliding off the bolt? I've seen this before. First check to see if you have the shocks mounted right. Do you have a large flat oval shaped washer on one end of the metal spacer? If yes, then that large washer needs to be on the INSIDE, i.e., against the bolt head. Reason? The rubber bushing can't slide over the large washer. However, not all Bilstein rear shocks have this large washer. Mine don't. If you don't have the built in washer, then put your own round washer on the bolt. That will prevent the rubber from sliding over the bolt head. Lowell Seaton '95 M3 BMW CCA #131505 Dallas, Texas