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#1. 245s on a 17x8 - from DiVincenti, A.J.
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Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2002 13:11:16 -0500 From: "DiVincenti, A.J." <ADiVin@lsuhsc.edu> Subject: 245s on a 17x8 Have any of you guys tried running Hoosier 245 40 17 on 17x8 wheels? How did it work out? I guess it would be similar to running a 235 on 17x7.5? AJ
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#2. Removing AC/Heater core - from dholeman
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Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2002 14:18:53 -0400 From: "dholeman" <dholeman@racepad.com> Subject: Removing AC/Heater core Hi, Anyone on the list remove the AC/Heater core from their E36 track car? I have a couple of questions about how to remove the heater control valve and loop the tubes so I can remove core from the car. David
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#3. Re: Modded 95 M3 vs Stock 99 M3 ?? - from rkatona@bellatlantic.net
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Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2002 14:25:24 -0400 From: "rkatona@bellatlantic.net" <rkatona@bellatlantic.net> Subject: Re: Modded 95 M3 vs Stock 99 M3 ?? Ron Buchalski wrote: >Mike, > >You may have one or more marginal ignition coils. Take a close look at each >one, and look for cracks. That's another good suggestion. Also try some fuel injector cleaner. Then borrow a Peake tool and see if there's a fault code (bad sensor or something). Do the easy/cheap stuff first. I think the occasional stumble/miss at idle is typical... certainly my car does this, but at 113k miles will still wax any stock '99 <g>. -- Ron Katona -------------------------------------------------------------------- mail2web - Check your email from the web at http://mail2web.com/ .
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#4. Re: [E36M3] 245s on a 17x8 - from alex.fadeev@verizon.com
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Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2002 13:28:48 -0500 From: alex.fadeev@verizon.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] 245s on a 17x8 "DiVincenti, A.J." <ADiVin@lsuhsc.edu> wrote: > > Have any of you guys tried running Hoosier 245 40 17 on 17x8 wheels? > How did it work out? BTDT. It fits without any issues. Though if you go to the Hoosier web site they recommend at least an 8.5" wide rim. > I guess it would be similar to running a 235 on 17x7.5? Exactly. alex
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#5. Re: [E36M3] 245s on a 17x8 - from Rex Tener
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Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2002 11:29:21 -0700 From: Rex Tener <rex_tener@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] 245s on a 17x8 At 01:17 PM 4/16/2002 -0500, DiVincenti, A.J. wrote: >Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2002 13:11:16 -0500 >From: "DiVincenti, A.J." <ADiVin@lsuhsc.edu> >Subject: 245s on a 17x8 > >Have any of you guys tried running Hoosier 245 40 17 on 17x8 wheels? How >did it work out? I guess it would be similar to running a 235 on 17x7.5? I have run Hoosier 245/40-17 on the stock 17x7.5 inch wheels, it looks a little pinched, but it works well for autox. That size looks much happier on my 17x9's. :-) -- Rex Tener rex_tener@yahoo.com
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#6. Re: Kumho V700 Tire pressure - from JUSTIN GERRY
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Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2002 14:40:23 -0400 From: "JUSTIN GERRY" <JGERRY@butchers.com> Subject: Re: Kumho V700 Tire pressure There was some information (insert) that should have some with those tires when you bought them. I used the information from the insert at my last drivers school and the tires performed really well. Start out at around 32psi cold, check your pressures warm and dont let them go over 38-39psi (optimum according to kumho with a heavier car). Sounds like you have optimum camber as well (again according to the Kumho info). -Justin -- '76 02 (Whimsical) '97 M3 (Orion) BMW CCA#77056 check out http://users.vei.net/jgerry
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#7. Re: [E36M3] Lower Rear Shock Mount Issues - from JUSTIN GERRY
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Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2002 14:46:12 -0400 From: "JUSTIN GERRY" <JGERRY@butchers.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Lower Rear Shock Mount Issues I bought my shocks used and they did not have the washer (were not on the original car as far as I remember). I guess I will make a trip to home depot. Anyone remember the correct size washer that I need? Thanks to all who responded. I like easy solutions. -Justin -- '76 02 (Whimsical) (wants to come out and play soon) '97 M3 (Orion) (needing some washers) BMW CCA#77056 check out http://users.vei.net/jgerry >>> <LoweSeaton@aol.com> 04/16 12:33 PM >>> JGERRY@butchers.com writes: > Just curious if anyone has experienced any problem with the LOWER shock > mount (I have Bilsteins if that makes any difference). AH!! Bilstein!! Let me tell you what I think. :-) Jerry - Your lower shock mount is sliding off the bolt? I've seen this before. First check to see if you have the shocks mounted right. Do you have a large flat oval shaped washer on one end of the metal spacer? If yes, then that large washer needs to be on the INSIDE, i.e., against the bolt head. Reason? The rubber bushing can't slide over the large washer. However, not all Bilstein rear shocks have this large washer. Mine don't. If you don't have the built in washer, then put your own round washer on the bolt. That will prevent the rubber from sliding over the bolt head. Lowell Seaton '95 M3 BMW CCA #131505 Dallas, Texas
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#8. RE: [E36M3] Re: Modded 95 M3 vs Stock 99 M3 ?? - from Scott Smith
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Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2002 11:54:38 -0700 From: Scott Smith <ssmith@akamai.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Re: Modded 95 M3 vs Stock 99 M3 ?? > From: "Robert S. Hatrak II" <hatrak@ix.netcom.com> ok Robert, I'm bait :-) (read tongue in cheek from now on) > Everyone knows that a 95 OBD1 M3 will spank the living daylights out of > the OBD2 M3s. Put a JC chip, euro HFM, and a Eurosport intake on the hmmm that's why the '96+ M3 is a class HIGHER than the '95 M3? > car, and game over. Throw a 3.38 on top of all that, you're just > turning the dagger at that point. oh I see! you're changing the story! So what mods am I allowed to make to the '96+ M3? The mods you mention would put you in Prepared in club racing... and in Prepared, the '96's are STILL making more power than the '95's. > Wanna know a secret? The only reason that the OBD2 cars are 3.2l is > because the emissions stuff robbed so much power from the car, that they > had to add the extra displacement to get it back up to the 95 power > levels. Sure on paper the OBD2 cars have a touch more torque. Blah. a touch? ha! there's alot more torque, and that matters when coming out of certain turns on the track... > They run out of breath about 4500 rpm because of the whimpy, torque > toned intake manifold. Ever wonder why all the guys who want serious > power from an OBD2 M3 put the intake manifold, etc. from a 95 on their > cars? : ) ah ok, so you go put the Euro HFM and Eurosport intake on your '95, and I'll dump a '95 intake + chip to handle it on my '97. I don't have to upgrade my diff cause I already have a decent one (3.23 vs 3.15, right?) we'll see who wins :-) Scott '95 M3 IS car - no torque, decent power '97 M3 street car - tons of torque, but wheezy ('97 M3 Euro BM car, tons of torque, tons of power)
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#9. RE: broken seats. - from Chip Mitchell
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Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2002 15:15:09 -0400 From: "Chip Mitchell" <chipm@arches.uga.edu> Subject: RE: broken seats. Andrej, You're both right. There are two torx bolts at the top of the seatback, under the plastic cover, and two other torx bolts at the bottom of the seatback, below the rear edge of the seat cushion. Undo these four bolts and disconnect the bowden cable for the seat release and the seatback slides right off the frame. Then you have to peel the leather off from around the edges and reach in between.... ChipM -------------------- 7 -------------------- Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2002 13:16:56 -0500 From: Andrej Dolenc <adolenc@erols.com> Subject: Re[2]: [E36M3] Part number for seat cable *laugh* I'm in the same boat on my '97 M3. The seats might be slightly different in that at least one person I talked to (with a '95 M3 I think) was describing his seat, the torx bolts that hold in the seatback were on the top of his seat whereas on mine they were at the bottom of the seatback. But despite removing those torx bolts, I don't see how to release and remove the seatback release levers. Once the levers are off apparently you can just slide / pull the seatback off and you'll see the cable in there. Andrej '97 M3 Jay Miller writes: > I got my cable. But damned if I could find out how to take the back of > the seat off. > If you or anyone have had any success with swaping the cable let me > know. > Jay > '95 M3 > -------------------- 7 -------------------- > Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2002 11:37:16 -0400 > From: Robert Chay <rchay@mindspring.com> > I think you need the Bowden Cable Part# 52 10 8 187 999. -Bobby > ----- Original Message ----- >> >> I'm about to repair the broken cable in my coupes driver seat for >> allowing entry into the back. I went to the dealer yesterday and the >> parts department couldn't figure out which cable I needed. Can >> someone point me to the right P/N please. >> >> Thank you. >> >> Paul Agustin >>http://www.BimmerMods.com >>
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#10. Engine Oil + Dipstick 97 M3 - from Mike Kanaly
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Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2002 13:09:54 -0700 From: "Mike Kanaly" <mike@worklife.com> Subject: Engine Oil + Dipstick 97 M3 I recently posted to the list about my 97 m3. I've had it about 4 weeks, and never checked the oil since I got it from the dealer. Doh! The car had 3 green service lights left when I got it. It now has 1 remaining, so I figured I'd check it. I've checked the oil/done routine maintenance on other cars, but never a bmw before. The dipstick has many markings, and I'm unsure if I was looking at the correct spot, but it seems that the oil is rather low. Not bone dry or anything, but it seems like the oil was just lightly coating everything, no distinctive mark or thick covering anywhere or anything. Should this be done with car running? Car warm? Etc? Is there any trick to this that I don't see? I checked after a short 10 min drive, with the car off. I'm thinking I should just remove the valve cap and add a quart or 2 for good measure. I have a couple quarts of mobil 1 10w30 laying in my garage, can I use this safely? Is this what you guys recommend I run? Any possible damage if the previous owner wasn't running synthetic? Any images of m3 dipsticks w/ markings to make sure I'm not being a idiot about this? Let me know! -Mike