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#1. Re: [E36M3] Hockey Puck - from Robert Chay
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Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 15:43:50 -0400 From: Robert Chay <rchay@mindspring.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Hockey Puck Support Lifting Platform (aka Hockey Puck) PN 51 71 1 960 752 -Bobby ----- Original Message ----- > > I lost one of my hockey pucks...aka: the jack pad (where you place the floor > jack for raising the car). > > Anybody have a PN for this? I need to do some shopping. > > 97 M3/4. > > TIA, Tim >
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#2. Shift knob part number needed - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 14:23:16 -0700 From: Jim Bassett <jimbassett@attbi.com> Subject: Shift knob part number needed Hi all, I need the part number for the lighted shift knob/boot combo with ///M logo, as found in, say, a 1998 M3 <g>. Alternatively, if someone has one laying around after upgrading to an aftermarket knob, I'd be happy to take it off your hands. (Or, if you *want* to upgrade, we can talk swapping for my existing UUC 1st generation Rob Knob.) Thanks, Jim Bassett
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#3. Re: [E36M3] Brakes - from Jeff A
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Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 18:09:46 -0500 From: "Jeff A" <aabel@austin.rr.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Brakes > > I'm sure this has been discussed a million times, but I'm new to this list. > I recently traded in my 96' 328 on a 99 M3, and forgot how bad the Jurid > pads dust. I upgraded my last pads to Metal Masters. Just wanted to get > some feedback as to a good high-performance pad that will cut down on the > dust. I will be doing a driving school this summer as well as a few autox. > Should I stay with the Metal Masters > > Thanks in advance > > Doug Wirth > 99M3 Yikes, MM's. Well, you've already been well chastized on you choice there, so I won't comment. ;-) I really like my Hawk HPS pads. Virtually dustless (compared to stock), and can even hold up at the track if not a heavy braking track and it's not a bazillion degrees out. I believe that the Porterfield R4S pads are the P-field equivalent of the HPS pads, but I have not tried them. Some report the HPS's as being noisy, but mine are far, far quieter than stock. Nary a peep. Could have something to do with the prodigious amounts of CRC red goop I put on the backing plates. :-) For track, HT 10's rock. I've heard great things about the higher end Carbotech pads though, and have been itchin' to try them. . . Jeff (why are track pads so damned expensive!?)
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#4. Re: [E36M3] Shift knob part number needed - from Robert Chay
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Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 19:13:24 -0400 From: Robert Chay <rchay@mindspring.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Shift knob part number needed Jim, Part # 25 11 2 231 561 retrofit kit (comes with the y-harness) Part # 25 11 2 231 550 lighted shift knob. Part # 25 11 2 231 560 Y-harness (taps into int. diming switch) -Bobby ----- Original Message ----- > > Hi all, > > I need the part number for the lighted shift knob/boot combo with ///M > logo, as found in, say, a 1998 M3 <g>. > > Alternatively, if someone has one laying around after upgrading to an > aftermarket knob, I'd be happy to take it off your hands. (Or, if you > *want* to upgrade, we can talk swapping for my existing UUC 1st generation > Rob Knob.) > > Thanks, > Jim Bassett >
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#5. RE: 245s on a 17x8 - from Mike Frank
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Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 18:28:54 -0500 From: Mike Frank <mfrank28@comcast.net> Subject: RE: 245s on a 17x8 Yep. It's tight, but they fit. You're better off with an 8.5 or a 9. I've heard from others that have run 245 Hoosiers on 8" and 9" rims that they felt better on 9". I've done both, but tires were not in comparable condition. HTH, Mike Frank > -------------------- 1 -------------------- > Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2002 13:11:16 -0500 > From: "DiVincenti, A.J." <ADiVin@lsuhsc.edu> > Subject: 245s on a 17x8 > > Have any of you guys tried running Hoosier 245 40 17 on 17x8 > wheels? How did it work out? I guess it would be similar to > running a 235 on 17x7.5? > > > AJ
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#6. Re: Modded 95 M3 vs Stock 99 M3 ?? - from Neil Maller
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Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 20:02:06 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Modded 95 M3 vs Stock 99 M3 ?? on 4/17/02 12:47 PM, Juan Rico <juan_rico@captionsinc.com> wrote: > Well, this should be inspiring for us 95'ers. > This is a video of a 160 HP taking on an F40. > > http://charlym3.free.fr/ > > The car is a Lotus Elise I believe... > Where are these driving schools??? For any of you coming to Putnam Park this weekend, we don't allow that kind of passing <vbg> Neil 96 M3
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#7. Re: Modded 95 M3 vs Stock 99 M3 ?? - from Mike Tse
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Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 21:29:26 -0400 From: "Mike Tse" <phid_bombadier@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: Modded 95 M3 vs Stock 99 M3 ?? I'm glad I could bust open a can o'worms here... Thanks for the tip, I'll check the coils again (I checked when I first got the car but maybe I may have missed something) Anyone know a good way to test coils with simple tools like a volt meter? :) (just hoping it would be simple) Thanks. --- Mike Tse 95 M3 UUC/SS - M20 Flywheel/E30M3 Clutch BMWCCA MA >From: "Ron Buchalski" <rbuchals@hotmail.com> >To: phid_bombadier@hotmail.com >CC: e36m3@bmw-m.net >Subject: Re: Modded 95 M3 vs Stock 99 M3 ?? >Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2002 14:01:02 +0000 > >Mike, > >You may have one or more marginal ignition coils. Take a close look at >each one, and look for cracks. > >-rb > >>Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 20:56:05 -0400 >>From: "Mike Tse" <phid_bombadier@hotmail.com> >>Subject: Re: Modded 95 M3 vs Stock 99 M3 ?? >> >>Yes, I feel the same way, something is wrong with my car (perhaps the >>driver >>;) too). >> >>Vanos was replaced 10-20K ago (have it written down somewhere...) >>Plugs around the same time >>O2 sensor at the same time >>(don't ask...in the attempt to hunt down a slight stumble at idle...) >> >>Still stumbles slightly. (feels like a little tremor in your seat from >>time >>to time at idle) >> > _________________________________________________________________ Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com
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#8. Check Coolant level and check engine - from Juan Bruce
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Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 19:03:50 -0700 From: "Juan Bruce" <jbrucebmw@hotmail.com> Subject: Check Coolant level and check engine Two days ago "check coolant level" began appearing when upon starting up and turning off my M3. I have checked the cold coolant level several times since then and it is above the cold mark. Any ideas on what's going on here? Today the check engine light came on and stayed on while sitting in traffic. When I got home I tried to pull the fault codes to no avail. With the key in the on position I pushed the pedal to the floor and let it all the way back up 5 times within 5 seconds and nothing happened. The check engine light just stayed on indefinitely. I turned the key off and tried it again several times. I have been able to pull the codes before so I don't think its user error. Any ideas on what's going on? Juan Bruce BMW CCA GGC '85 M635CSi '95 M3 with 95k miles and starting to catch up with the M635Csi in terms of maintenance costs. _________________________________________________________________ Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com
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#9. Check Engine light and knock sensors - from Juan Bruce
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Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 19:47:49 -0700 From: "Juan Bruce" <jbrucebmw@hotmail.com> Subject: Check Engine light and knock sensors Just after sending the last email I went down and tried pulling the fault codes again. This time it worked. Why it did not work before I'm still not sure. Anyway I pulled the code 1225 which is Knock sensor #1 and wiring. Has anyone had this code before? Looking at the Bentley manual, it says you have to remove the Intake Manifold to check/replace the knock sensors. This seems like a real pain. Has anyone found another way to get to it? Also where does the wiring lead to? I want to make sure its not the wiring somewhere along the way before I go taking off the intake manifold. Juan Bruce BMW CCA GGC '85 M635CSi '95 M3 _________________________________________________________________ Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com
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#10. Re: [E36M3] Check Engine light and knock sensors - from NickG
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Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 23:16:55 -0400 From: "NickG" <nick@tech-nick.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Check Engine light and knock sensors The code can be caused by several possible items (loose spark plugs, bad connections, bad knock sensor, etc.). Take a quick search through the archives and you'll most likely find all the info, including a post I made with pointers on how to remove the intake manifold to access the knock sensors. Nick > Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 19:47:49 -0700 > From: "Juan Bruce" <jbrucebmw@hotmail.com> > Subject: Check Engine light and knock sensors > > Just after sending the last email I went down and tried pulling the fault > codes again. This time it worked. Why it did not work before I'm still not > sure. > > Anyway I pulled the code 1225 which is Knock sensor #1 and wiring. Has > anyone had this code before? Looking at the Bentley manual, it says you > have to remove the Intake Manifold to check/replace the knock sensors. This > seems like a real pain. Has anyone found another way to get to it? Also > where does the wiring lead to? I want to make sure its not the wiring > somewhere along the way before I go taking off the intake manifold. > > Juan Bruce > BMW CCA GGC > '85 M635CSi > '95 M3