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#1. Hockey Puck - from Burgess, Kim L
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Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 15:28:49 -0700 From: "Burgess, Kim L" <kim.l.burgess@boeing.com> Subject: Hockey Puck Ron Stygar has a great fix for this problem http://www.unofficialbmw.com/e36/misc/e36_jack_points.html Kim L Burgess 767 Liaison - WIC (425)266-5721
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#2. Re: [E36M3] Control arms: How to check? - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 16:04:08 -0700 From: Jim Bassett <jimbassett@attbi.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Control arms: How to check? At 02:57 PM 4/18/02, Steve Klein wrote: > Just that. How can I inspect/check my control arms to see if I need >to replace? Snipped from a Club Racing Tech Bulletin (http://www.bmwccaclubracing.com/2002%20Series/Bulletins/0297.htm): 4. Replace control arm if a ball joint has any amount of "up and down" play when squeezed with a large "water pump" pliers. 5. Replace control arm if a ball joint has any "side to side" play in it when grasping the outside of tire and shaking from side to side or up and down. Hope that helps, Jim Bassett 1998 M3/4 - should have the ball joints checked 1993 325is #44 KP - recently-replaced control arms & bushings
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#3. Re: [E36M3] Control arms: How to check? - from Steve Klein
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Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 18:14:46 -0500 From: Steve Klein <klein@robinsonad.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Control arms: How to check? Thanks, Jim. My first official M3 jacking! Steve
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#4. FS: PF-97s (Brand new!) - from Peter Guagenti
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Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 20:49:10 -0700 From: Peter Guagenti <peter@guagenti.com> Subject: FS: PF-97s (Brand new!) For Sale: A brand new set of PF-97s for the E36M3. May work with others, but you'll have to check for yourself. These were purchased for use on my '95, but I found an alternative before installing. ;-) Porterfield sells them to us for $145. I'm asking $120, and will throw in used factory rotors (only slightly worn, and freshly resurfaced for use with these pads). Prefer local pick-up in SF Bay Area, but I will ship. -peterg
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#5. Re: [E36M3] Hockey Puck - from Zack Steinkamp
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Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 21:37:00 -0700 (PDT) From: Zack Steinkamp <edsarkiss@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Hockey Puck boy, ron stygar is THE MAN. he's provided us with so much helpful information! thanks ron (and suzy!) zs --- "Burgess, Kim L" <kim.l.burgess@boeing.com> wrote: > Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 15:28:49 -0700 > From: "Burgess, Kim L" <kim.l.burgess@boeing.com> > Subject: Hockey Puck > > Ron Stygar has a great fix for this problem > http://www.unofficialbmw.com/e36/misc/e36_jack_points.html
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#6. Re: Looking for Trouble - from The Buch
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Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 22:09:14 -0700 From: The Buch <the_buch@telus.net> Subject: Re: Looking for Trouble Bob ... thanks for checking back with me ... it's M3 magic - my Streetline suspension has literally 'settled in' and slowly stiffened up over the last 2,000mi, and is now just about perfect for handling while providing a wonderful connected feel (incidentally I have ended up with both the fronts and backs at 40% up from full soft) ... plus I seem to have worn the new S-03s just enough somehow so that the twitchiness is almost gone, except for on a ridgy highway or in the rain ... all this without any further alignment or bushing work??? Any further comments appreciated as always ... Doug BobTunnell@aol.com wrote: > Hi Doug, > > Just curious how resolving your suspension problem was going? > > Did dialing in some rear toe-in help? > > --Bob > ............................. > In a message dated 3/29/02 7:22:11 PM, BobTunnell writes: > > >Your dealer is using the "correct" spec. I'm just suggesting what I know > >*works* best. > > > >Again... I'm just suggesting trying it before you spend a bunch of money > >you may not have to on bushings and other parts. If a little toe-in doesn't > >help, then you'll definitely have to start replacing things. > > > >Good luck, > > > >--BT > > > >PS. I noticed a couple other guys on the list suggested a little toe-in, > >too, so I'm not the only crazy one out there. <g> > >............................................. > >In a message dated 3/29/02 5:18:39 PM, the_buch@telus.net writes: > > > >>But the standard spec for the car calls for this positive toe (+10 minutes) > >>on > >>the rear ... is your suggestion from experience or does my dealer have > >>something > >>wrong with the spec itself?? > >> > >>Thanks again, Doug > >> > >>BobTunnell@aol.com wrote: > >> > >>> Doug, > >>> > >>> +11 minutes of toe in the rear means you're running toe-OUT. That alone > >>is > >>> enough to cause twichiness on the highway. > >>> > >>> Before you go replacing components I strongly suggest setting the rear > >>to > >>> about 1/4" toe-IN. (sorry I don't remember what that is in degrees) > >> I can > >>> almost guarantee your problem will get better, if not disappear entirely. > >>> > >>> Really! It may be that simple -- I've seen this a hundred times. And > >>> adjusting toe costs a lot less (free!) than buying new parts. <g> > >>> > >>> Good luck, > >>> > >>> --Bob > >>> .................................................. > >>> In a message dated 3/29/02 12:03:09 PM, the_buch@telus.net writes: > >>> > >>> >Thanks for the advice Bob ... I am running +11minutes of toe on each > >>> >side in > >>> >the rear and +9minutes of toe on each side in the front, in addition > >>to > >>> >1.75degrees of negative camber (each side) in the rear and 0.90 degrees > >>> >of > >>> >negative camber (each side) in the front ... I am, as you suggest, > >>> suspecting > >>> >something else has gone off?? > >>> > > >>> >Thanks, Doug > >>> > > >>> >BobTunnell@aol.com wrote: > >>> > > >>> >> >Having in place the E46 RSMs, BMW x-brace and UUC front strut tower > >>> >bar, > >>> >> >and now recently replacing springs (H&R OEs), struts/shocks (Koni > >>SAs), > >>> >> >and tires (S-03s), and re-aligning the car a couple of times to > >find > >>> >the > >>> >> >right spot, I am still not happy. My car just seems dangerously > >>> >> >'twitchy' in certain situations, particularly on ridgey or uneven > >>> >> >pavement at higher speeds where I really get pushed around. Of > >course, > >>> >> >I was expecting to have to do a bit more work as a driver due to > >>moving > >>> >> >from the stock configuration, but it just seems like I am missing > >>> >> >something else which is simply wrong. > >>> >> > >>> >> Doug, > >>> >> > >>> >> With that suspension package your car should *not* feel dangerously > >>> twitchy. > >>> >> > >>> >> What toe settings are you running? I've run zero toe in front and > >>> 1/4"-1/2" > >>> >> toe-IN in the rear in E36 M3's with various suspensions for many > >years > >>> >and > >>> >> have *never* encountered the kind of handling you're describing. > >>> >> > >>> >> As long as you're running the above toe settings and not more than > >>-3 > >>> >degrees > >>> >> camber in front and -2 degrees in the rear, your car should handle > >>like > >>> >a > >>> >> dream on the track and the street. > >>> >> > >>> >> If not, something else (worn steering rack, torn trailing arm console > >>> >welds, > >>> >> loose tie rod/control arm ends, etc.) is very wrong. > >>> >> > >>> >> --Bob > >>> > > >>> > > >>> > > >>> >----------------------- Headers -------------------------------- > >>> >Return-Path: <the_buch@telus.net> > >>> >Received: from rly-xd05.mx.aol.com (rly-xd05.mail.aol.com > [172.20.105.170]) > >>> >by air-xd03.mail.aol.com (v84.10) with ESMTP id MAILINXD31-0329150309; > >>> >Fri, 29 Mar 2002 15:03:09 -0500 > >>> >Received: from priv-edtnes10-hme0.telusplanet.net (mtaout.telus.net > >>> [199.185.220.235]) > >>> >by rly-xd05.mx.aol.com (v84.10) with ESMTP id MAILRELAYINXD58-0329150259; > >>> >Fri, 29 Mar 2002 15:02:59 -0500 > >>> >Received: from telus.net ([142.173.109.12]) > >>> > by priv-edtnes10-hme0.telusplanet.net > >>> > (InterMail vM.5.01.04.01 201-253-122-122-101-20011014) with > >>ESMTP > >>> > id > >>> <20020329200258.TMCR16463.priv-edtnes10-hme0.telusplanet.net@telus.net>; > >>> > Fri, 29 Mar 2002 13:02:58 -0700 > >>> >Message-ID: <3CA4C98F.B5A2ECA7@telus.net> > >>> >Date: Fri, 29 Mar 2002 12:07:44 -0800 > >>> >From: The Buch <the_buch@telus.net> > >>> >Reply-To: the_buch@telus.net > >>> >Organization: At Home > >>> >X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.79 [en]C-SYMPA (Win98; U) > >>> >X-Accept-Language: en,fr-CA > >>> >MIME-Version: 1.0 > >>> >To: BobTunnell@aol.com, e36m3@bmw-m.net > >>> >Subject: Re: Looking for Trouble > >>> >References: <e6.2591b14e.29d606a6@aol.com> > >>> >Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii > >>> >Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > >>> > > >>> > > >> > >> > >> > >>----------------------- Headers -------------------------------- > >>Return-Path: <the_buch@telus.net> > >>Received: from rly-zd04.mx.aol.com (rly-zd04.mail.aol.com [172.31.33.228]) > >>by air-zd01.mail.aol.com (v84.10) with ESMTP id MAILINZD13-0329201839; > >>Fri, 29 Mar 2002 20:18:39 -0500 > >>Received: from priv-edtnes15-hme0.telusplanet.net (defout.telus.net > [199.185.220.240]) > >>by rly-zd04.mx.aol.com (v84.10) with ESMTP id MAILRELAYINZD45-0329201812; > >>Fri, 29 Mar 2002 20:18:12 -0500 > >>Received: from telus.net ([142.173.109.12]) > >> by priv-edtnes15-hme0.telusplanet.net > >> (InterMail vM.5.01.04.01 201-253-122-122-101-20011014) with > >ESMTP > >> id > <20020330011811.DSEM23210.priv-edtnes15-hme0.telusplanet.net@telus.net> > >> for <BobTunnell@aol.com>; Fri, 29 Mar 2002 18:18:11 -0700 > >>Message-ID: <3CA51370.1DA1A258@telus.net> > >>Date: Fri, 29 Mar 2002 17:22:57 -0800 > >>From: The Buch <the_buch@telus.net> > >>Reply-To: the_buch@telus.net > >>Organization: At Home > >>X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.79 [en]C-SYMPA (Win98; U) > >>X-Accept-Language: en,fr-CA > >>MIME-Version: 1.0 > >>To: BobTunnell@aol.com > >>Subject: Re: Looking for Trouble > >>References: <ce.24133bb7.29d64402@aol.com> > >>Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii > >>Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > >> > >> > >
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#7. Re: [E36M3] Control arms: How to check? - from James Mckenna
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Date: Fri, 19 Apr 2002 04:48:41 -0400 From: James Mckenna <shutupkid@comcast.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Control arms: How to check? yea my rear end is very VERY clunky.. it scares me to death, i hope its the rtb's which i hopfully will be replacing this weekend... ----- Original Message ----- From: "Steve Klein" <klein@robinsonad.com> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Thursday, April 18, 2002 7:17 PM Subject: Re: [E36M3] Control arms: How to check? > Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 18:14:46 -0500 > From: Steve Klein <klein@robinsonad.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Control arms: How to check? > > Thanks, Jim. My first official M3 jacking! > > Steve > > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. > ************************************************************* > >
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#8. RE DMS Exhaust - from Jeremy Lucas
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Date: Fri, 19 Apr 2002 07:09:38 -0400 From: "Jeremy Lucas" <jlucas@columbus.rr.com> Subject: RE DMS Exhaust Anybody have a dyno chart they want to share with the RE exhaust? Preferably with some type of baseline overlaid to judge the effect or on a nearly stock car (so a stock run can be used as a baseline). I'm not looking for just peak numbers but an actual graph. TIA, Jeremy Lucas 95 M3 currently with a B&B
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#9. Flush ABS when bleeding brakes? Hell no! - from Steve Lilley
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Date: Fri, 19 Apr 2002 08:18:44 -0400 From: Steve Lilley <m3steve@earthlink.net> Subject: Flush ABS when bleeding brakes? Hell no! I know the subject of cycling the ABS pumps to get the old fluid out has been discussed recently, so I thought I'd add my own experience (I have so little to offer this list, but I'll give what I can :-). First off, there's a really good document on StopTech's Web Site called "Bleeding Anti-lock Brakes...is it really as difficult as it sounds?". It can be found here: <http://stoptech.com/whitepapers/bleeding_abs_122701.htm> I read this a couple months ago, and concluded that I didn't need to _ever_ worry about cycling the ABS pump when I flushed the brake fluid. After all, I activate ABS at least a couple times a week on the street, and even more at the track. Now I've got another data point to back up this finding... In 40K miles, I've flushed my brake fluid four times; always using ATE Super Blue. During this time, I had never flushed the fluid in the cluch -- initially because I didn't know I needed to do so, and then later because I didn't know how to bleed the clutch. So about a month ago I finally got the Bentley Service Manual, which had the details on the clutch bleeding procedure. Since I had never bled the clutch before, I figured the fluid in the clutch lines would be old and dirty. Guess what? The fluid in the cluch lines was blue...and clean! So even though I had never bled the clutch before 40K miles, the brake fluid circulates through the system enough to get all the way to the clutch bleeder valve. From this demonstration, I'm confident that I don't have to worry about cycling the ABS pump any longer when I flush the brakes -- though I will continue to flush the clutch, now that I know where the bleeder valve is. Regards, Steve m3steve@earthlink.net
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#10. RE: [E36M3] OEM replacement air filter - from Carey Probst
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Date: Fri, 19 Apr 2002 08:24:57 -0400 From: "Carey Probst" <hcprobst@alum.mit.edu> Subject: RE: [E36M3] OEM replacement air filter I personally like the K&N a lot but know there are others who claim it flows more dirt. I've had one in my '79 CJ-7 and '89 Cherokee (which unlike most SUVs has seen a significant amout of off pavement travel) since it was new. It now has just under 300,000 miles and burns less than a quart of oil between the 4-5k mile oil changes. I have one in every car I've owned since the early 80's with no problems. Carey Probst, '99 M3/2, BMW CCA Patroon and Genesee Valley Chapters Sharked, Stressed, Schrothed, Gauged, Hitched, X-Braced A well regulated militia being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear arms shall not be infringed. > -----Original Message----- > From: ChuckBrazeau@aol.com [mailto:ChuckBrazeau@aol.com] > Sent: Thursday, April 18, 2002 10:18 AM > To: E36M3 > Subject: [E36M3] OEM replacement air filter > > > Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 10:15:50 -0400 > From: ChuckBrazeau@aol.com > Subject: OEM replacement air filter > > What are your opinions on K&N or ITG for an OEM replacement air > filter (or any others)? I plan on going with the Conforti CAI in > the future, but for now (while i race in Solo2 Stock class) i > just want a better OEM replacement. > > Thanks! > ChuckBrazeau.com > '95 M3/2 DaytonaViolett > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. > ************************************************************* > > >