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#1. Re:The weekend report from Wayne (a bit long) - from morris.michael@adlittle.com
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Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 10:14:13 -0400 From: morris.michael@adlittle.com Subject: Re:The weekend report from Wayne (a bit long) AgghhhH! $315/month for a spot! Ouch! That's my car payment!!! Wayne, thanks for the weekend summary, I could use a few more stories this morning! Mike Morris, who parks for free right outside of Boston! (Lucky me). >I pay $315 per month for a stupid parking space here in NYC so they >won't be left starving. **** This is intended for the addressee only and may contain confidential business information. It may not be copied without our permission. If you are not the intended recipient, please contact the sender as soon as possible and delete the material from any computer.****
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#2. The weekend report from Wayne (a bit long) - from Mark Kelly
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Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 09:51:18 -0400 From: Mark Kelly <mark@garden.net> Subject: The weekend report from Wayne (a bit long) Ok, I'll chime in.... Wayne's car just plain sounds awesome! The combination of the OBDII cam kit and supersprint exhaust makes the car sound like...well a deep roar that doesn't end. It sounds so good you just want to keep your foot on the pedal to hear it. Now the power, that another thing. Can you say pulls all the way to redline and doesn't run out of air? And oh yeah, more torque too. Very fun. Mark Wayne wrote................................................................................. but I thought that it would be closer. One thing for sure, it really sounds great with the kit (others can chime in here too). I guess that I do need that extra 10hp so I am looking into the Evosport pulley kit (actually I was looking into it before but now I am more interested). The only issue that crept up is a check engine light for one of the after-cat O2 sensors. I cleared it and then it kept coming back so when I had the car up while swapping my brakes back, I took a quick look and
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#3. NYC Costs - from Wayne Miller
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Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 10:30:39 -0400 From: "Wayne Miller" <m3@waynemiller.com> Subject: NYC Costs This should make most of you feel better about not living in NY - not only is the parking space $315/month but my insurance is $3,600 per year for this car only! This is with 1 accident (at a drivers school) and no tickets and I am 33 years old. It was $2,600/year before the accident. -Wayne
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#4. Another Rear Trailing arm bushing story - from Mark Kelly
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Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 10:34:13 -0400 From: Mark Kelly <mark@garden.net> Subject: Another Rear Trailing arm bushing story At Wayne's we also R&R'd the RTBs. The process is so easy with the proper tools, that I can't understand how anyone would try to do this without them. First of all, thanks to Chester, Wayne, Mike Tse, and Dave Ngo for all the help. In a nutshell, for one side of the car: 1. Put the car up on jack stands 2. Remove rear wheel 3. Undo the two 10mm bolts that attach the brake lines to the trailing arm 4. Mark the position of the trailing arm bushing bracket in relation to the body of the car (so that you can re-align the rear) 5. Undo the three 18mm bolts dropping down the trailing arms. 6. Undo the bolt that attaches the bracket to the bushing. 7. Use the BMW tools to extract the bushing. 8. Clean the trailing arm before inserting new bushing 9. Use the BMW tools to insert the new bushing. 10. Bolt everything back up 10. Done This job was surprisingly easy. To get the bushing out of the trailing arm literally takes 5 minutes of turning a wrench. Inserting the new one is just as easy. This job can easily be done in under two hours by two people, without rushing. Now on to my old trailing arm bushings. I was really surprised to find that BOTH were shot. The car is a 98 M3 with 57000 miles on it. The car has never been tracked or auto-crossed (unfortunately). Based on the condition of my bushings, I would recommend doing this R&R for all cars with similar mileage. Along with the new bushings, we also put in a set of Ground Control spacers. The spacers when in without much drama. Driving impression. Basically, the rear of the car is definitely more solid and planted. I don't know if the bushing alone would make the rear this solid, or if the GC spacers are responsible, but it is much better. All things told, the total cost was: set of BMW bushings $32 renting the BMW tool from Chester $50 GC spacers $60 labor $free having a solid rear end again $priceless$ Oh yeah, you will probably need to have your alignment checked after this job. Although, my car feels perfect without one, the numbers may be off. Mark 98 M3
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#5. Re: [E36M3] Vaseline under the Oil Cap - from The Buch
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Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 07:44:08 -0700 From: The Buch <the_buch@telus.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Vaseline under the Oil Cap Thanks Nick (also Tim Gergen) ... coolant is about 1/3" (where it seems to be happy and never boil over) below the cold line, and I have experienced no overheating (the water temp gauge never moves anyhow, but my oil temp settles in about 200 - 210F pretty consistently) ... this buildup was only noticeable the last time I took the cap off, so perhaps I am at the early stages of a developing problem?? ... I wondered if the possibilities include mixing oil brands and weights, sucking some water into a wet Conforti intake (maybe from too much hose pressure on the front of the car?) or the AA oil cap seal being much tighter than stock and not allowing any condensation to escape?? ... or perhaps I am just looking for excuses because I can't believe a light-duty M3 could have a head gasket problem with only 50,000mi on it (I never had to open up the engine in any Porsche I ever owned before three times this number)?? Thanks, Doug NickG wrote: > Are you by chance losing coolant or overheating? The vaseline type buildup > is indicative of water mixing with oil. > > Nick > > > Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2002 17:09:51 -0700 > > From: The Buch <the_buch@telus.net> > > Subject: Vaseline under the Oil Cap > > > > Topping up with a bit of oil today, I noticed a small buildup of muck > > under the oil cap the exact consistency of vaseline ... it has been > > about 8,000km (5,000mi) since the last change during which I have added > > about a quart of 10W-40 Amsoil to the initial fill of 10W-30 Redline > > (both full synthetic). I have also changed to an aluminum filler cap > > (AA) which is a very tight seal-fit. > > > > Any suggestions appreciated. > > > > Thanks, Doug
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#6. Looking for CF or Aluminum panels for the dash - from dholeman
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Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 10:56:33 -0400 From: "dholeman" <dholeman@racepad.com> Subject: Looking for CF or Aluminum panels for the dash Hi, I am looking for CF or aluminum panels for the dash. See red areas in the picture. I am looking for blank panels that are shaped to fit the curves and contours of these areas. David
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#7. Re: Wheel Locks - from Ron Buchalski
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Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 14:56:26 +0000 From: "Ron Buchalski" <rbuchals@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: Wheel Locks I have the BavAuto locks on my M3. The lug bolt is silver, and the lock head is covered with a plastic cap. You can either order the set with black caps or silver caps, to match the rest of your lug nuts. Other than lacking the semi-gloss finish of the black factory lugs, these are not noticeable at all. Some comments about this wheel lock system, and wheel locks in general: 1) These locks use a set of four pins in the 'key', which mate to four grooves that are located at unique positions on the lock lug. So, you put the key onto the lock lug, and use your 17mm wrench to tighten/loosen them. Since the fit of the key onto the lock lug isn't absolutely tight, the grooves have started to get distorted from the torque of tightening them. 2) Related to the slight looseness of the key, it makes tightening/torquing the lug bolts a little more difficult, since the key tends to wobble a little when it's on the lock lug. 3) Since the lock lugs are made of chrome steel, they feel different when being torqued. The sensation of tightening them is different than tightening the remaining four lug bolts (black finish) on each wheel. 4) I'm fairly certain that one of those 'universal sockets' that adapts to the size of the fastener: http://www.ontvonline.com/gator-grip.htm could be used to remove these locks. So, I wouldn't consider these absolutely thief-proof. 5) Be sure to check the length of the lock lugs, and make sure they'll meet your needs. The lock lugs that I own have the same thread length as the stock lugs, so it wasn't a problem. However, if you are using aftermarket wheels, or spacers, and require longer lug bolts, then the standard "for your car model" lock lugs will be too short. I don't know if you can request longer lock lugs or not. Check with BavAuto. 6) Wheel locks are intended to discourage someone from stealing your wheels, or delay the process. If someone really wants your wheels, and they have the cover of darkness or the comfort of isolation, they WILL take them. 7) If a company made a set of of wheel locks that made wheels 100% theft-proof (without the proper key), I'd never buy them because, in all likelihood, if a problem occured with the key and/or lock lug, they'd never be removed without some damage to the wheel. I'd rather rely on 98% theft protection to discourage theft, and insurance to cover the remaining 2%. My $0.02, -rb PS: I purchased a 17mm deep socket from Tire Rack (Gorilla Thin Wall Sockets) for $3.50: http://www.tirerack.com/tires/accessories/tools.jsp It's a great socket to use with my torque wrench, and is a big improvement over the standard length 17mm socket that I was using. >Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2002 15:23:14 -0400 >From: "Paul Elliott" <elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net> >Subject: Wheel Locks > <snip> >So, then, the eccentric pattern locs are out....But still, I need a chrome >lock head to be the best match to the fikses...Second best would be a >silver bolt head....I can get silver locks from Bavarian Autosports. >Instead of an eccentric pattern cut into the lock head, they use a head >with a series of longitudnal grooves cut into it for the key to >match....Would this type face the same fate as the eccentric pattern ones? >If true, then I guess any of >them would face the same fate, and make locks in general useless..... > > >Paul Elliott _________________________________________________________________ Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com
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#8. RE: [E36M3] to FLUSH the hydraulics system on the M3 ? - from Ron Buchalski
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Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 15:10:58 +0000 From: "Ron Buchalski" <rbuchals@hotmail.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] to FLUSH the hydraulics system on the M3 ? Two additions/suggestions: 1) Prior to the start of a brake system flush, I use a MityVac pump to remove most of the old fluid from the reservoir: http://www.mityvac.com/kits.html#07000 That way, I'm not mixing new fluid with old reservoir fluid, and end up using much less new brake fluid when I flush the system, since I'm immediately flushing the master cylinder and brake lines with completely new fluid. (Don't use the MityVac to vacuum bleed the brake system. It doesn't work very well.) 2) Once a year I remove the fluid reservoir from the master cylinder and clean it out using brake fluid. Sediment settles on the bottom of the reservoir, so it's a good idea to remove it before it gets pushed into the brake lines. I use Motive Product's "Jim Powell Ripoff" pressure bleeder: http://www.motiveproducts.com/ (I purchased it from BavAuto, so it has the BavAuto name on the label). I'm going to modify the cap with Jim Powell's Update 1: http://www.apexcone.com/Bleeder/bleeder.html -rb >Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2002 16:59:25 -0400 >From: "Carey Probst" <hcprobst@alum.mit.edu> >Subject: RE: [E36M3] to FLUSH the hydraulics system on the M3 ? > >Hi Cesar, > >Guess it's my time to help after your great advice on San Juan. > >I'll probably start a small flurry of responses since there seem to be as >many answers to this question as there are people on this list, but here >goes. > >My method, others probably different. Know lots of opinion on >pressure/sucker bleeders. > >1. Fill pressure bleeder with fluid, attach to master cylinder. >Pressurize >lightly. Too much pressure can cause bubbles. > >2. Start at Right rear and bleed until you get blue/gold clear fluid. > >3. Next is Left rear > >4. Right front > >5. Left front > >6. Clutch > >Make sure that no air enters system and that pressure bleeder fluid level >stays higher than the pickup. > >Remove pressure bleeder and fill master cylinder to fill line. > >Now if you really want to flush the ABS, the only way I know (other than >getting the activator the dealer uses) is to drive around awhile activating >ABS at every stop. > >Return home and repeat steps 1-6. > >Personally I don't worry about the little bit of fluid in the ABS system >since it gets changed 2-3 times a year for drivers schools anyway. If you >are doing on the 2-3 year interval recommended, then twice is still a cheap >alternative to the dealer. > >Take care, > >Carey > _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp.
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#9. CF hood question - from Wayne Miller
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Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 11:28:50 -0400 From: "Wayne Miller" <m3@waynemiller.com> Subject: CF hood question Does anyone have any experience with the MA Shaw composite hoods? Look here for more info: http://www.mashaw.com/html/product_info_BMW.html . I now have a great opportunity to swap my stock hood out so I was looking for pros and cons of this. Thanks, -Wayne
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#10. Re: [E36M3] CF hood question - from Matt Henson
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Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 09:06:50 -0700 (PDT) From: Matt Henson <hensonator@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] CF hood question Wayne, How do you know that's CF and not just fiberglass? It says "compression molded composite," which could be either. But, on their opening page it says "We manufacture carbon fiber and glass composite body parts..." which makes me think that they mean "fiberglass" when they say "composite". $800 for a fiberglass hood is pretty high. Maybe if the hood is really, really perfect. I've heard of CF hoods for our cars for $500 but I don't know how good they are. One thing to consider for all of these hoods is crash worthiness. The hood is a very important of the front crumple zone. If you replace it with an improperly-designed piece then bad things can happen. Maybe it will shatter or be to weak and not absorb the impact. Maybe it will sheer off its mounting point and go through the windshield. Maybe it will behave the same as the stock one. I don't know. I guess that these companies have saked their reputation on the design of the hood. -Matt --- Wayne Miller <m3@waynemiller.com> wrote: > > Does anyone have any experience with the MA Shaw > composite hoods? Look > here for more info: > http://www.mashaw.com/html/product_info_BMW.html . I > now have a great opportunity to swap my stock hood > out so I was looking > for pros and cons of this. > > Thanks, > > -Wayne __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Games - play chess, backgammon, pool and more http://games.yahoo.com/
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#11. Re: Vasoline under oil cap - from KLchmn@aol.com
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Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 12:11:19 -0400 From: KLchmn@aol.com Subject: Re: Vasoline under oil cap I would guess that you have run mostly short trips in somewhat cool or cold weather (assuming you have no coolant leaks). The engine isn't getting hot enough for long enough to burn the moisture out of the engine. Bet you live in a somewhat humid environment too (i.e., it rains where you live). Sounds like a good excuse for a track day to me! Cheers, Kirk Lachman Sin City Chapter '95 M3 #21 I-stock
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#12. Re:Wheel Locks - from Lew Becker
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Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 09:14:59 -0700 From: "Lew Becker" <lmbeckercfls@earthlink.net> Subject: Re:Wheel Locks I've used McGard locks for many years -- on my M3's 18" BBS RC's, and previously on a C4 Vette. Although they clearly will not stop a pro; they will stop/slow down non-pro's and/or give them a reason to look elsewhere for easier pickings. The trick is to assure that the "key" is fully inserted and engaged before exerting any force, and that it stays fully inserted/engaged until all force is released. Never had a problem. The factory locks, with actual keys, are another story ... keep away. Lew Becker