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#1. Best price on clutch disc? - from Rob
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Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 21:43:15 -0600 From: "Rob" <motor@cadvision.com> Subject: Best price on clutch disc? Anyone know who has the lowest price on O.E M3 clutch discs? I need one but don't love the local dealers price :) Anyone have a spare kicking around? TIA, Rob
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#2. RE: Rear wheel lifting during autox - from DiVincenti, A.J.
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Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 22:38:50 -0500 From: "DiVincenti, A.J." <ADiVin@lsuhsc.edu> Subject: RE: Rear wheel lifting during autox Regarding my rear wheel lifting episode during my last autox, I have the Eibach sway bars set soft in the front and stiff in the rear. I have the Koni Coil-Over Kit also. I don't believe I was doing any heavy trail braking either. This was a runway type of course with a series of offset gates and slaloms. The turnaround was slow and tight. No sweepers. I think the Eibach bars are 24mm front and 26mm rear. I'm kinda freaked out by this. AJ
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#3. Re: [E36M3] RE: Rear wheel lifting during autox - from Chris Teague
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Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 21:09:56 -0700 From: "Chris Teague" <cteague@cox.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] RE: Rear wheel lifting during autox Close. 26mm in front, and 24mm in rear. I run mine stiff F and R, and I don't think I have got the rear wheel to lift. Not sure about the front. The front used to lift when I ran AS with a Dinan front bar and stock rear bar, but I have stiffer springs now. Unless the car handles bad, I am not sure I would worry too much. Chris 97 M3/4 > I think the Eibach bars are 24mm front and 26mm rear. I'm kinda freaked out > by this. > > AJ
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#4. Re: Vasoline under oil cap - from The Buch
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Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 21:21:59 -0700 From: The Buch <the_buch@telus.net> Subject: Re: Vasoline under oil cap Yo Kirk 2 out of 3 ... definitely a cold and rainy climate (Vancouver) ... but I do get a long highway run every day with the oil temperature getting up to 210F ... plus this muck has just shown up in the last few thousand miles ... having said all this I am hoping for something simple ... will advise when I know ... regards, Doug KLchmn@aol.com wrote: > I would guess that you have run mostly short trips in somewhat cool or cold weather (assuming you have no coolant leaks). The engine isn't getting hot enough for long enough to burn the moisture out of the engine. Bet you live in a somewhat humid environment too (i.e., it rains where you live). > > Sounds like a good excuse for a track day to me! > > Cheers, > > Kirk Lachman > Sin City Chapter > '95 M3 #21 I-stock
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#5. Faded side moldings - from Paul Elliott
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Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 08:15:35 -0400 From: "Paul Elliott" <elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net> Subject: Faded side moldings >>and use some good quality masking tape, so you wont need to rub off adhesive residue from your paint...<< Is it called racers tape? If not, how do you ID it, and where do you find it...I think Ive read that on paint, you want to use such a tape, as conventional masking tape used on car finishes is either harder to get off, or runs the risk of lifting paint, although I would imagine the paint to be in pretty poor shape if you can lift it with masking tape... still I think applying the right tape would be easiser than removing the moldings to die them. I always have a tendency to break clips when trim is involved. Paul Elliott --------------------------------------------------------- '99 White M3; < 45K miles; Dinan stage II SC kit with 6" RMS crank pulley: 11 psi; AA Water Injection; Fikse FM-10s; X-Brace; Dinan Koni Suspension; Stygar SS and Clutch Stop; Sound by Polk, Excelon, JLAudio
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#6. RE: Rear wheel lifting during autox - from Matt Henson
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Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 07:29:09 -0700 (PDT) From: Matt Henson <hensonator@yahoo.com> Subject: RE: Rear wheel lifting during autox Your problem is most likely caused by the sway bar settings. It is very common, yet incorrect, to use sway bars to reduce body roll. Body roll should be managed with springs, not bars. Once the general roll stiffness is achieved then the bars should be used to tune the Front/Rear relative roll stiffness. The problem with sway bars is that they will lift up the inside wheel with the same force that they try to push the outside wheel down (aka pushing the frame up). Setting the bars to full soft/full hard F/R has moved the roll stiffness to the rear of the car. So the rear bar is working extra hard to try to keep the car level and, as a result, it is lifting the inside wheel. And probably causing oversteer. Your best bet is to go ahead and re-adjust the bars to balance out the roll stiffness. It is generally considered safer to have a bit more stiffness up front, lifting the front wheel first. Good Luck, Matt --- "DiVincenti, A.J." <ADiVin@lsuhsc.edu> wrote: > Regarding my rear wheel lifting episode during my > last autox, I have the > Eibach sway bars set soft in the front and stiff in > the rear. I have the > Koni Coil-Over Kit also. I don't believe I was > doing any heavy trail > braking either. This was a runway type of course > with a series of offset > gates and slaloms. The turnaround was slow and > tight. No sweepers. > > I think the Eibach bars are 24mm front and 26mm > rear. I'm kinda freaked out > by this. > > AJ > > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Games - play chess, backgammon, pool and more http://games.yahoo.com/
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#7. RE: Rear wheel lifting during autox - from Matt Henson
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Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 07:30:12 -0700 (PDT) From: Matt Henson <hensonator@yahoo.com> Subject: RE: Rear wheel lifting during autox Your problem is most likely caused by the sway bar settings. It is very common, yet incorrect, to use sway bars to reduce body roll. Body roll should be managed with springs, not bars. Once the general roll stiffness is achieved then the bars should be used to tune the Front/Rear relative roll stiffness. The problem with sway bars is that they will lift up the inside wheel with the same force that they try to push the outside wheel down (aka pushing the frame up). Setting the bars to full soft/full hard F/R has moved the roll stiffness to the rear of the car. So the rear bar is working extra hard to try to keep the car level and, as a result, it is lifting the inside wheel. And probably causing oversteer. Your best bet is to go ahead and re-adjust the bars to balance out the roll stiffness. It is generally considered safer to have a bit more stiffness up front, lifting the front wheel first. Good Luck, Matt --- "DiVincenti, A.J." <ADiVin@lsuhsc.edu> wrote: > Regarding my rear wheel lifting episode during my > last autox, I have the > Eibach sway bars set soft in the front and stiff in > the rear. I have the > Koni Coil-Over Kit also. I don't believe I was > doing any heavy trail > braking either. This was a runway type of course > with a series of offset > gates and slaloms. The turnaround was slow and > tight. No sweepers. > > I think the Eibach bars are 24mm front and 26mm > rear. I'm kinda freaked out > by this. > > AJ > > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Games - play chess, backgammon, pool and more http://games.yahoo.com/
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#8. The weekend report from Wayne - And a brief review of Kumho ECSTA V700s - from nabli@earthlink.net
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Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 10:40:42 -0400 From: <nabli@earthlink.net> Subject: The weekend report from Wayne - And a brief review of Kumho ECSTA V700s This is just a supplement to Wayne's post and my first evaluation of the Kumho ECSTA V700 at LRP. I had a great time at LRP this past weekend with Chester and Wayne. Both Wayne and I were running new Kumho ECSTA V700s in 235/40r17s. Overall I'd have to give these tires an "A" rating for the first time out. They are quite responsive with loads of grip even at the limits. The nice thing about these tires is that when you start pushing them to their limit, they do (unlike many R-Compound tires) "talk" back. I was running a stock 97 M3 Coupe with the exception of Eibach sway bars set to full stiff in the front and soft in the rear. It also has a SuperSprint exhaust which may account for a few ponies but certainly not enough to make a difference in lap times. I ran the tires at 32psi cold and measured them hot at 38-40psi. I'd have to say that 32psi cold is a good place to start for most drivers. I tend to run relatively fast lap times (1:08 to 1:12 if the coast is clear) so it's unlikely that you'll get them much hotter. If you like to trail brake, these tires were excellent around "Big Bend." Now comes the "big" question - should you buy these tires shaved and heat cycled before running them? Wayne bought his tires shaved and heat cycled and I bought mine plain Jane out of the box. My tires wore out evenly, without chunking or any signs of weird behavior. I put about 300 or so miles on them before I ran them on the track. No, I'm not saying you don't need to have them shaved or heat cycled. Bust based on my first impression, I did not notice any difference between my tires and Wayne's. Of course, I'll keep you posted as I put more track days on them. Cheers, Jim E.
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#9. Re: [E36M3] Best price on clutch disc? - from Matt Henson
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Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 07:42:41 -0700 (PDT) From: Matt Henson <hensonator@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Best price on clutch disc? --- Rob <motor@cadvision.com> wrote: > > Anyone know who has the lowest price on O.E M3 > clutch discs? I need one > but don't love the local dealers price :) Anyone > have a spare kicking > around? > > TIA, > Rob Zygmunt has then for $144. www.bimmerparts.com. -Matt __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Games - play chess, backgammon, pool and more http://games.yahoo.com/
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#10. Weekend report :) (GC coilover review, other stuff)...LONG - from Chester Wong
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Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 09:33:12 -0700 (PDT) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Weekend report :) (GC coilover review, other stuff)...LONG I was finally able to read the digests as my e-mail inbox was flooded after I left for LRP and I guess the list automatically unsubscribes those with bounced e-mails ;) So...as some already know, I embarked on a quest to find a suspension for my car that didn't annoy me. A few months ago I installed Koni front strut inserts and rear shocks. The ride was much, much better than the worn out shocks/struts. Mark Kelly was selling a set of H&R OE Sports so I jumped on them to give it a go. I liked the increased stiffness and it really made the car come alive...turn-in was great. The only downside? Bounciness! It drove me up the wall. Hence...my preeching of turning up the rebound on them there shocks :) Well...to make a long story short...Konis (OE, Bilsteins, etc) are single-rate dampeners. Yah...they're adjustable, but once you set it, it's single-rate (albeit at whatever setting it was set at). H&R OE Sports and H&R Sports are progressive rate springs. OE springs are linear rate springs. Are you starting to get the picture? So with what some people are doing with the H&R springs where they're setting the shock/strut to say 1 turn from full soft is tuning the dampener to the small bumps. But when you hit a large bump and compress the suspension a lot, you enter the progressive rate of the spring and the spring rate goes up. What happens? The resistive force of the spring is too strong for the weak setting of the shock and the wheel accelerates downwards. So you turn up the rebound so you're good to go with the big bumps. What happens on the small bumps? The dampeners are now too sluggish. Bleh. I sold the springs and I thought I might try the euro springs someone sold. The springs didn't seem to be much different. Ride height was more or less the same as stock. Go figure. Anyone want a set of euro springs? Anyway, after talking to Jay Morris of Ground Control, he confirmed that the H&Rs are progressive rate and that really the only other springs out there that are linear like stock are either Dinan springs or Eibach Pro-Kit springs. Go figure! So here I am...decided against the H&R coilover kit because the dampeners aren't adjustable...so I went with the Koni shocks/struts because they are adjustable...but you only have a choice of three springs!!! (stock, Dinan, or Eibach). Now, I'm venturing a theory that the Eibach springs are the same as the ACSchnitzer kit because, well...the swaybars are rebadged Eibachs....why not the springs too? Anyway, so...what were the other options? Well, Eibach makes Eibach Race Springs in many different lengths and spring rates. Ground Control sells a conversion kit that uses the original struts. The kit consists of four aluminum collars and four aluminum ride height adjusters. I've installed H&R coilovers in the past with the old version of the rear ride height adjuster that binded on the half shafts....and the GC units are by far, much, much nicer. The threads are square cut and the ride height adjuster clamps down on the whole collar. With this kit, there are many springs rates available. There is one downside, however. Because the springs are smaller in diameter, for the same spring rate between a 4.5" vs. 2.25" diameter, the smaller one offers less usable travel. The coils will coilbind and that will be the end of your fun. So in order to not coilbind the springs, you must go to a stiffer spring. For the front, that meant going with a spring rate >300#/inch (stock is somewhere around 100#/inch) and >400$/inch in the rear (stock is 302#/inch). With Wayne's help, we installed the kit and adjusted ride height. There was some mixup in parts so I didn't get the correct rear springs until last Wednesday (kudos to Jay for the great customer service for making sure I had the right parts in time for my alignment). I installed the rear springs at the alignment shop and got the ride height correct on the second attempt (ride height was set to near stock ride height maybe a .5 - .75" drop). After taking apart and reassembling the front suspension many, many times and taking apart and reassmebling the rear trailing arm bushing area many, many times...my alignment was spot on! Go figure! I even had the shop take the scales and to see if we needed to corner balance. Guess what...my car was 49.5/50.5 f/r weight distribution and very close to 50/50 L/R and cross balance, etc. I was psyched! So how does the car ride? Well, the bounciness is gone. Thank goodness! Turn-in is awesome. Mark Kelly who has the Bilstein setup says that my car is not as harsh as his setup (Lowe, care to comment? <vbg>). At the track, the car was great. Of course, I still have a lot to learn to improve my driving skills, but I was doing pretty well for the first three sessions. Jim El Nabli was in my run group (with R Compounds...me on my Pilot Sports) and on the fourth run group, my instructor said, "Yeah....do what he's doing...keep up with him!" In my head, I knew that I shouldn't even attempt as I didn't have as much grip...but red mist took over. I went in way too hot...and went off sideways...EEEEK! Luckily I didn't roll and nothing was damaged save for the driver's ego :) The second day didn't prove as productive. I didn't like the instructor's teaching style and it was more or less his way or no way at all :( He's a very good driver and I'm sure 10 years of refining technique allows one to look so far ahead (he had me trying to look for the track-out cone before I was even at the turn in area), but it wasn't mixing with my driving style. So I wasn't having nearly as much fun...doh! It even shows in the amount of gas I used....the first day saw me drain 1/2 tank. The second day...I'd say 1/4 tank....doh! Oh...and those Movits were so awesome....didn't even swap pads...just went with the OE Porsche pads. Better than my stock brakes with PF90s! =) Chester ===== __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Games - play chess, backgammon, pool and more http://games.yahoo.com/