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#1. RE: Michelin MXX3 235/40/17 - from Dorffer, Rich
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Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2002 14:29:34 -0400 From: "Dorffer, Rich" <RDORFFER@CleIndians.com> Subject: RE: Michelin MXX3 235/40/17 I said > > Tire Rack found the very last tire they > had in stock of the MXX3 in the 235/40/17 size based on a search they > performed on my request after they told me the inventory was zero... A.J. responded with > > Three weeks ago they had 30 in stock. I bought two. I can't believe they sold that many. They did. And now there are none, not even any in the special fitment I first requested (234/40/17) Regards, Rich - kidding about that special fitment...just a little typo I had in my first post.
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#2. RE: Ride Height Too Low. - from kitwetzler@mindspring.com
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Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2002 14:59:07 -0400 From: "kitwetzler@mindspring.com" <kitwetzler@mindspring.com> Subject: RE: Ride Height Too Low. > What do you mean if you lowered the car too much? > Please explain. What is too much and how do you > determine optimum ride height? depends on what application. There really isn't a single optimum ride height, without taking into account suspension components, what you're doing with the car, etc. Obvious a Group N rally car is going to have a different optimum ride height than the same chassis in a Speedvision World Challenge race. Lowering the car too much occurs when you are in a bad part of the camber curve and when you are out of suspension travel. The former is correctable with running additional static camber to a point, the latter is correctable by using shortened shock bodies... of course, ground clearance becomes an issue quickly, too. For street use, on standard length shocks, with reasonable springs, you really can't lower the M3 very much. I am running 12.25" in the front, 12" in the rear from fender lip to center of the tire. With my H&r coilovers which use a shortened shock, and stiff springs, this is enough ride height to keep me off the bumpstops, and keep me in a decent part of the camber curve. If I was running springs with the stiffness of H&R sports, this wouldn't be enough height in the front. -kit -------------------------------------------------------------------- mail2web - Check your email from the web at http://mail2web.com/ .
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#3. RE: Ride Height Too Low - from Bob Stommel
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Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2002 15:11:06 -0500 From: Bob Stommel <rstommel@iquest.net> Subject: RE: Ride Height Too Low Lowering the car too much with a stock suspension (i.e. not coilovers) will reduce shock travel, making it more likely that you will hit the bump stops in a corner. It will also affect "bump steer", which is the change in toe caused by weight transfer as the car is turning. On an E36 M3, you can safely lower it by about 1 inch without having to worry too much about bump steer. Much more than that and you'll have to compensate for bump steer. For a good explanation of bump steer and how to correct it, see the Tech Articles on the Longacre Racing web site: http://www.longacreracing.com/ Bob Stommel SPG Motorsports Indianapolis >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2002 11:28:03 -0500 >From: "DiVincenti, A.J." <ADiVin@lsuhsc.edu> >Subject: Ride Height Too Low. > >What do you mean if you lowered the car too much? Please explain. What is >too much and how do you determine optimum ride height? > >AJ
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#4. Re: [E36M3] RE: Ride Height Too Low. - from Jeff A
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Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2002 17:34:56 -0500 From: "Jeff A" <aabel@austin.rr.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] RE: Ride Height Too Low. With all this talk of 'bad part of the camber curve' there's something I continue to miss. As the suspension is compressed, just as it is lowered, negative camber is increased, not decreased. Perhaps the extra postive camber evidenced by my tire wear on the track is due to lateral forces forcing the tire into a positive camber position, rather than any intrinsic fault of the front suspension geometry (rubber parts of the suspension flexing). In addition, as the wheels are turned, there is even additional camber (called "camber gain", I believe the quantification of how much camber is gained due to a steering input). What am I missing? Finally, in the limited reading I've done on suspension designs, the McPherson strut is supposed to fairly mimic dual A-arm designs, in terms of geometry. Thoughts? Jeff ----- Original Message ----- From: <kitwetzler@mindspring.com> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Friday, April 26, 2002 2:05 PM Subject: [E36M3] RE: Ride Height Too Low. Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2002 14:59:07 -0400 From: "kitwetzler@mindspring.com" <kitwetzler@mindspring.com> Subject: RE: Ride Height Too Low. > What do you mean if you lowered the car too much? > Please explain. What is too much and how do you > determine optimum ride height? depends on what application. There really isn't a single optimum ride height, without taking into account suspension components, what you're doing with the car, etc. Obvious a Group N rally car is going to have a different optimum ride height than the same chassis in a Speedvision World Challenge race. Lowering the car too much occurs when you are in a bad part of the camber curve and when you are out of suspension travel. The former is correctable with running additional static camber to a point, the latter is correctable by using shortened shock bodies... of course, ground clearance becomes an issue quickly, too. For street use, on standard length shocks, with reasonable springs, you really can't lower the M3 very much. I am running 12.25" in the front, 12" in the rear from fender lip to center of the tire. With my H&r coilovers which use a shortened shock, and stiff springs, this is enough ride height to keep me off the bumpstops, and keep me in a decent part of the camber curve. If I was running springs with the stiffness of H&R sports, this wouldn't be enough height in the front. -kit -------------------------------------------------------------------- mail2web - Check your email from the web at http://mail2web.com/ . ************************************************************* List Commands UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). To issue a command/request to the server: Send a message with the command you wish executed as the subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. *************************************************************
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#5. RE: [E36M3] Speeding Ticket Advice? - from Dames, Mark
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Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2002 15:43:30 -0700 From: "Dames, Mark" <Mark.Dames@PDO.Co.Santa-Clara.CA.US> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Speeding Ticket Advice? This is the Wild Wild West. Renegades and outlaws. The home of Jesse James, Sonny Barger, and Tricky Dick Nixon. "Why be a servant to the law, when you can be it's master" ----Bohdi, Point Break. -----Original Message----- From: Zack Steinkamp [mailto:edsarkiss@yahoo.com] Sent: Thursday, April 25, 2002 7:35 PM To: E36M3 Subject: RE: [E36M3] Speeding Ticket Advice? Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 19:33:05 -0700 (PDT) From: Zack Steinkamp <edsarkiss@yahoo.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Speeding Ticket Advice? --- "Dames, Mark" <Mark.Dames@PDO.Co.Santa-Clara.CA.US> wrote: > When they jerk with you, jerk back! he was doing nearly 70 in a 40 ... that's just irresponsible and very dangerous. i think the police are being *lenient* when they don't arrest people who speed like this. what if a car pulled out of a driveway, or a bicyclist lost control, or a kid ran into the street? even in a car with as good of brakes as an M3, a non-incident turns into a very serious one with this kind of speed. i'm sorry i don't recall who got the ticket, but you should be thankful that you only have a fine and increased insurance rates to deal with, rather than trying to find Johnny Cochrain's phone number. zs ************************************************************* List Commands UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). To issue a command/request to the server: Send a message with the command you wish executed as the subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. *************************************************************
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#6. FREE: 95 BMW OEM head unit - from Chris Papademetrious
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Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2002 20:04:02 -0400 From: Chris Papademetrious <chrispy@ieee.org> Subject: FREE: 95 BMW OEM head unit Everyone, I was cleaning my basement and found my original OEM head unit from my 95 M3. This is a cassette head unit, with controls to control the factory changer. Since I have no plans to go back to this, I'll ship it to the first person who wants it. (I wouldn't turn down a few PayPal bucks for shipping, though.) Anyone need one of these? http://home.epix.net/~chris73/headunit.jpg - Chris
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#7. Re: [E36M3] RE: Ride Height Too Low. - from Chris Teague
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Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2002 18:05:07 -0700 From: "Chris Teague" <cteague@cox.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] RE: Ride Height Too Low. Jeff, Here is what you are missing: A Macpherson strut suspension, like the M3, increases camber as it is compressed only because the lower control arm is angled down toward the outside of the car (inside of arm is higher). This is at stock ride height. As you compress the car, or lower the suspension, the arm becomes closer to level. At each point, the camber increase is *less* per inch of ride height. If you lower the car enough, the arm will be level to the ground. At that point, any further lowering or compression will start to *decrease* camber. So that's what Andy and other mean by trying to keep the M3 in the good part of the camber curve. On some cars, you can raise the inner pivot point to compensate for this. I don't see how to do that on an M3. This is also why some people run real stiff front springs and bars, to keep the camber correct. A well designed unequal length double a-arm suspension should have *much* better camber gain than the MacPherson strut design, since the upper arm can move in as the lower arm moves out, to compenstate for body roll. Hope this makes sense, Chris 97 M3/4 ----- Original Message ----- > Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2002 17:34:56 -0500 > From: "Jeff A" <aabel@austin.rr.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] RE: Ride Height Too Low. > > With all this talk of 'bad part of the camber curve' there's something I > continue to miss. As the suspension is compressed, just as it is lowered, > negative camber is increased, not decreased. Perhaps the extra postive > camber evidenced by my tire wear on the track is due to lateral forces > forcing the tire into a positive camber position, rather than any intrinsic > fault of the front suspension geometry (rubber parts of the suspension > flexing). In addition, as the wheels are turned, there is even additional > camber (called "camber gain", I believe the quantification of how much > camber is gained due to a steering input). > > What am I missing? > > Finally, in the limited reading I've done on suspension designs, the > McPherson strut is supposed to fairly mimic dual A-arm designs, in terms of > geometry. Thoughts? >
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#8. HELP! Overheating in traffic! - from Nickerson, Joe
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Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2002 21:22:55 -0400 From: "Nickerson, Joe" <joe.nickerson@lmco.com> Subject: HELP! Overheating in traffic! Hey Guys, I've got a 1996 with 42,000 miles, been driving it for 3 years with not a single problem. So today in traffic I smell something funny, I look down and the temp gauge is in all the way at the top and the red light is on, I quickly pull in a parking lot and shut her down, it's about 65 degrees out. Came back about 6 hours later after it had time to cool down, look in the coolant reservoir and the water level is right where it's supposed to be. Start it up and check that the fan closest to the engine is running. IIt is, so I start to go the 4 miles back to my house, temp gauge raises very slowly from the lowest setting to the exact middle in about 5 min. then stays right in the middle for the remaining 5 min home. What gives? What should I check next? I don't want to take the car anywhere util I get this fixed. Thanks in advance for any help. Joe
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#9. Squeaky Clutch Pedal - from SWKAUF@aol.com
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Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2002 21:57:37 EDT From: SWKAUF@aol.com Subject: Squeaky Clutch Pedal My clutch pedal has a squeak, mostly on release, near the top of its travel which is more noticable on a slower release (city driving). It is hardly noticable with "spirited" driving. Can I spray a lube (WD40?) up into the pedal connection? Is there a better way to correct this? Is this possibly indicative of a more serious problem? I have not had this happen on any other car I have had. Thanks Steve 98 M3/4
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#10. Re: [E36M3] Squeaky Clutch Pedal - from Chris Teague
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Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2002 20:37:29 -0700 From: "Chris Teague" <cteague@cox.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Squeaky Clutch Pedal Steve, This is a common problem on the E36 M3. You can try to spray lube, but that is usually only a temporary solution. The problem seems to be the clutch bushings. UUC makes a replacement set that gets rid of the play and the squeak. You can see them at : http://www.uucmotorwerks.com/ Under BMW parts, Clutch Bushings ($20). I have a set, but haven't installed them yet (So I still have the squeak). I also got the clutch stop, which I have installed already. I think others may make the bushings also. Chris 97 M3/4 ----- Original Message ----- > Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2002 21:57:37 EDT > From: SWKAUF@aol.com > Subject: Squeaky Clutch Pedal > > > My clutch pedal has a squeak, mostly on release, near the top of its travel > which is more noticable on a slower release (city driving). It is hardly > noticable with "spirited" driving. Can I spray a lube (WD40?) up into the > pedal connection? Is there a better way to correct this? Is this possibly > indicative of a more serious problem? I have not had this happen on any other > car I have had. > > Thanks > > Steve > 98 M3/4