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#1. FS: 1997 M3/4 in Northern California - from Scott Smith
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Date: Fri, 03 May 2002 15:08:38 -0700 From: Scott Smith <ssmith@akamai.com> Subject: FS: 1997 M3/4 in Northern California (apologies if this is a resend) I am selling my beloved black on black '97 E36 M3 4 door with 55k miles. It is a stickshift and has a moon roof, heated seats, OBC, 10 spoke wheels, factory keyless alarm, and the Harmon Kardon audio. The CD player is broken but can be send into Alpine to be repaired for $250 (flat fee for all repairs). 1 year left on Certified Pre Owned warrantee ($50 deductible at any dealer). Mechanically sound, some cosmetic dings. Asking $25k. Car is located in San Mateo, CA. http://www.gelatinous.com/scott/pics/forsale/e36m3.html Scott
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#2. anyone have a spare BBS center cap? - from Scott Yu
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Date: Fri, 3 May 2002 17:35:14 -0500 From: "Scott Yu" <scott@ditherdog.com> Subject: anyone have a spare BBS center cap? Howdy folks, I know these are sold separately, but I figured I'd ask here before I ponied up the moolah to BBS. One of my BBS RX centercaps fell off on my cross-country drive - does anyone have a spare one around that they'd be willing to sell? Thanks, Scott Yu San Francisco 4 BBS RX, 3 centercaps
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#3. Re: Schroth harnesses vs. DOT seat belts - from Neil Maller
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Date: Fri, 03 May 2002 18:35:01 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Schroth harnesses vs. DOT seat belts on 5/3/02 5:25 PM, "Mount, Mike" <JMMn@pge.com> wrote: > Noticed the thread about a CCA chapter requiring factory (DOT legal) > seatbelts or 5/6 pt harnesses. The implication was that somehow the Schroth > harnesses are unsafe. In my personal opinion and experience, the DOT belts > do not provide protection in a side impact. In fact the Schroth Rallye 3 and 4 harnessbelts are DOT legal. Neil 96 M3
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#4. RE: [E36M3] steering rack boot replacement - from Jeremy Warfield
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Date: Fri, 3 May 2002 19:42:31 -0400 From: "Jeremy Warfield" <jww95@earthlink.net> Subject: RE: [E36M3] steering rack boot replacement Nope, just replace the boot. Remember to pick up the two narrow clamps for each end, as they are not reusable. While you are in there, check for any signs of fluid leakage from the ends of the rack assy. These are the initial signs of the power steering rack's failure (ask me how i know) cya jeremy- -----Original Message----- From: Gary A. Preece [mailto:gapreece@entreky.net] Sent: Friday, May 03, 2002 6:09 PM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] steering rack boot replacement Date: Fri, 3 May 2002 17:53:53 -0400 From: "Gary A. Preece" <gapreece@entreky.net> Subject: steering rack boot replacement I just replaced my sway bar links that had all the boots split open. Getting ready to replace my tie-rod ends and the rubber boots on the steering rack. Is there anything I should do, like pack it with grease or something? (under the boots)
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#5. Installing Fischer brake lines .. need guidance - from Shelhart2@aol.com
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Date: Sat, 4 May 2002 11:39:50 EDT From: Shelhart2@aol.com Subject: Installing Fischer brake lines .. need guidance I purchased a set of Fischer stainless lines, ATE fluid, wrenches and pressure cap from Steve at the Ultimate Garage. I have yet to bleed an ABS car and understand ABS cycling should be done. What exactly will I need to do when changing the lines? Do I need to cycle the ABS or can I get away with not doing it (had my last fluid change 8 months ago at the dealer). I only purchased the pressure cap and not the whole pressurized "system". Has anyone made a make shift chamber to create the pressure? If there is a step by step web link I'd appreciate the address. Thanks for the assistance. Regards, Shel Hart 1998 M3
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#6. Re: [E36M3] Installing Fischer brake lines .. need guidance - from Alain van der Heide
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Date: Sat, 4 May 2002 10:23:25 -0500 From: "Alain van der Heide" <ajvdh1@attbi.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Installing Fischer brake lines .. need guidance I built a pressure bleeder out of a garden sprayer using Jim Powell's plans. Go here: http://www.apexcone.com/Bleeder/bleeder.html I cycle the ABS by doing the following: First, a full flush (including clutch), then I engage the ABS by driving down a dirt road and slamming on the brakes, and then I bleed the wheel cylinders again. ----- Original Message ----- From: <Shelhart2@aol.com> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Saturday, May 04, 2002 10:45 AM Subject: [E36M3] Installing Fischer brake lines .. need guidance > Date: Sat, 4 May 2002 11:39:50 EDT > From: Shelhart2@aol.com > Subject: Installing Fischer brake lines .. need guidance > > > I purchased a set of Fischer stainless lines, ATE fluid, wrenches and > pressure cap from Steve at the Ultimate Garage. I have yet to bleed an ABS > car and understand ABS cycling should be done. What exactly will I need to > do when changing the lines? Do I need to cycle the ABS or can I get away > with not doing it (had my last fluid change 8 months ago at the dealer). I > only purchased the pressure cap and not the whole pressurized "system". Has > anyone made a make shift chamber to create the pressure? If there is a step > by step web link I'd appreciate the address. Thanks for the assistance. > > Regards, > > Shel Hart > 1998 M3 > > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. > ************************************************************* > >
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#7. Brakes lines install help con't.. please confirm my logic - from Shelhart2@aol.com
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Date: Sat, 4 May 2002 16:07:18 EDT From: Shelhart2@aol.com Subject: Brakes lines install help con't.. please confirm my logic Thanks for the Powell guide to making a pressure bleeder. Can someone confirm my project plan for this evenings install of the stainless lines? 1. Remove the rear brake lines and replace with new stainless lines. 2. Remove front lines and replace. 3. Fill reservoir to the top 4. Attach pressure bleeder and set to 14-17 PSI. (It may seem like a dumb question but, why do you need a pressure bleeder when they still recommend pumping the brakes?) 5. Pump the brakes 8-10X and open one of the rears. 6. Continue until no bubbles. 7. Finish the other rear and then go to front. Make sure there is adequate fluid in reservoir each time I move from wheel to wheel. 8. Brakes where just bled by dealer so I won't be overly concerned about cycling the ABS. 9. Drive away with a firmer pedal. Thanks in advance. Shel 1998 M3
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#8. Subtle Roughness - from The Buch
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Date: Sat, 04 May 2002 19:26:42 -0700 From: The Buch <the_buch@telus.net> Subject: Subtle Roughness Anyone experienced (and solved) a very subtle roughness while decelerating, just between light gas application and coming completely off the gas. This area of my throttle response used to be perfectly smooth, and now has just a bit of a 'rumbly' edge to it. It is very minor, and more of a feel than a sound. For consideration, I have the Shark software and JC intake with the AA GenIII exhaust, and have already had both pre-cat O2 sensors replaced. It has been 25,000km (15,000mi) since Insp II, which included plugs. All input appreciated. Regards, Doug ('99 M3)
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#9. Re: [E36M3] Installing Fischer brake lines .. need guidance - from S Lafredo
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Date: Sat, 4 May 2002 22:26:20 -0400 From: S Lafredo <slafredo@fast.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Installing Fischer brake lines .. need guidance On Saturday, May 4, 2002, at 11:45 AM, Shelhart2@aol.com wrote: > I purchased a set of Fischer stainless lines, ATE fluid, wrenches and > pressure cap from Steve at the Ultimate Garage. I have yet to > bleed an ABS > car and understand ABS cycling should be done. I had bleed my car many times and never cycled it. Though if you are still under warranty you do get one free brake bleed. > What exactly will I need to do when changing the lines? Jack the car up on all fours. Change one at a time. I disconnect from the brake first and then the line and attached the new one in reverse. The fluid drips out so work quick. Even w/the correct wrenches, if you do not want to strip the rear lines, first remove the bracket from the trailing arm before you try to separate the lines. > I only purchased the pressure cap and not the whole pressurized > "system". Has > anyone made a make shift chamber to create the pressure? If > there is a step > by step web link I'd appreciate the address. try www.apexcone.com
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#10. Exhaust Advice - from Chris
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Date: Sun, 5 May 2002 15:17:10 -0700 From: "Chris" <ccurry@curry.org> Subject: Exhaust Advice Looking for some aftermarket exhaust and was wondering if any could lend suggestions. I want something that sounds strong and powerful but not annoyingly so. So far, from many of the reviews I have read, and for the price, supersprint seems to be a good candidate. ? Thanks, Chris E36 Black/Black M3