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#1. Putnam Park May 18-19 - from Kris Welhart
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Date: Thu, 9 May 2002 13:55:25 -0500 From: "Kris Welhart" <kris.welhart@cyou.com> Subject: Putnam Park May 18-19 Anyone going to Putnam with the Buckeye Chapter?? I am new to the = midwest and this is my first event up here. I would like to meet some = fellow listers if any are going. Please reply to me and not the digest. = Thanks. Kris=20 95 ///M3 94 325i=20
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#2. Re: Pads and Rotors R&R this weekend - from Ron Buchalski
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Date: Thu, 09 May 2002 19:39:25 +0000 From: "Ron Buchalski" <rbuchals@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: Pads and Rotors R&R this weekend Mike, Before you install the new rotors, be sure to thoroughly clean them with brake cleaner, to remove the anti-rust coating that's sprayed on them when they are manufactured. Spray and wipe, spray and wipe... Also, I remove the brake fluid reservoir from the master cylinder and thoroughly clean it out. I use a Mity-Vac to remove as much fluid as possible from the reservoir, then rock it sideways to remove it from the master cylinder (it's attached via two rubber grommets/seals, which remain attached to the master cylinder). Be sure to put paper towels around the master cylinder, and be prepared to block the bottom openings with your fingers, to minimize fluid spillage. I clean it out with fresh brake fluid, although something like Stoddard solvent may also work. Be sure to bleed your clutch after you've bled the brakes. -rb >Date: Thu, 9 May 2002 09:49:31 -0700 (PDT) >From: mkelley <mkelley@nc.rr.com> >Subject: Pads and Rotors R&R this weekend > >Just looking for some last minute advice...have parts in hand and all tools >and supplies (I think) to R&R rotors (Brembo front, factory rear(ATE?) and >pads (Hawk HPS) plus 2 liters ATE Blue for fluid flush. I've read various >web tech write-ups (ie Racepad, TCKline, etc), have a Bentley's manual, >and >I think I'm ready. Any last minute BTDT, PITA-avoidance advice would be >greatly appreciated....like "don't worry about checking rotors for run-out" >or "be sure to check run-out", etc. Thanks in advance. >Mike >98M3C _________________________________________________________________ MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
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#3. brakes. Forget something? - from marc@plante.com
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Date: Thu, 09 May 2002 13:01:36 -0700 (PDT) From: marc@plante.com Subject: brakes. Forget something? - Got your 7mm allen socket? stubby? of not, do you have an 7/8 mm ratcheting wrench (slip the socket through it) to help you get the back slider pins out. - 6 mm allen socket to get the rotor retainer screws out. New retainer screws. - Anti seize - Something to hang the calipers on the springs while you're doing the rotors (old hangar). - *16* mm 6 sided socket for the front calipers. Not standard issue in many socket sets...many run 15 then 17 mm. - Metal (solid) mallet to get rotors off? rotate and tap from behind every 1/4 turn til they come off. lift both back wheels to facilitate turning in back. - anti squeal for the outer pads? - brake cleaner and wire brush to clean the calipers - Piston compressor tool (cheapos available at car parts stores work well. You'll need an old brake pad to use with. - torque wrench and settings for all parts? - containter for old brake fluid (you should be Ok with one liter). - new Sensors if you've fried the old ones. One front, one rear. They're not reusable. Before you start the job put a note on your gauges to PUMP THE BRAKES before you pull away from park when you're finished. Brett can elaborate if you need more details on this last point. Marc Plante E36 325i, 198k Vienna, VA
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#4. digress back to suspension thread - from Burgess, Kim L
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Date: Thu, 9 May 2002 13:01:52 -0700 From: "Burgess, Kim L" <kim.l.burgess@boeing.com> Subject: digress back to suspension thread Recognizing that there are differences between M and non-M suspension components, what are the differences and how is anti-dive and anti-squat accomplished. Obvious and previously discussed front suspension components where differences exist are wheel diameter, rotor, king pin, spring length/rate, strut tube (for sway bar mount), strut internals, and sway bar. I have an idea that there must be other differences in the front but I don't know what they might be. Now for the rear I have absolutely no ideas. Anybody? Thanks KLBurgess
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#5. Long live the E36 M3 - from Robert S. Hatrak II
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Date: Thu, 9 May 2002 13:30:20 -0700 From: "Robert S. Hatrak II" <hatrak@ix.netcom.com> Subject: Long live the E36 M3 Anyone else see this month's Road & Track? It has a handling comparo-test in which the new E46 M3 comes in #7 out of 8 cars. Maybe they should have used an E36 in the comparison as well. It never disgraced itself like it's younger lard-assed brother. <G> Rob
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#6. Re: [E36M3] brakes. Forget something? - from Rex Tener
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Date: Thu, 09 May 2002 13:44:47 -0700 From: Rex Tener <rex_tener@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] brakes. Forget something? At 03:08 PM 5/9/2002 -0500, marc@plante.com wrote: >- *16* mm 6 sided socket for the front calipers. Not standard issue in >many socket sets...many run >15 then 17 mm. The 16 mm bolts holding the brake/caliper is actually a 5/8" head bolt. My 15 mm was too tight and my 16 mm 6 sided socket was very loose. The 5/8" six sided socket fit perfectly. Another lister pointed this out to me a little while back before I did the brake job on our black M3. -- Rex Tener rex_tener@yahoo.com 1996 BMW M3, SCCA SFR Solo II Street-Mod #173
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#7. Re: [E36M3] Long live the E36 M3 - from Jimenez, Ariel
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Date: Thu, 9 May 2002 15:59:40 -0500 From: "Jimenez, Ariel" <ariel@megapathdsl.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Long live the E36 M3 Yep, I started a thread on it here: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=30748 Ariel 99 Titanium M3 > Anyone else see this month's Road & Track? It has a handling > comparo-test in which the new E46 M3 comes in #7 out of 8 cars. Maybe > they should have used an E36 in the comparison as well. It never > disgraced itself like it's younger lard-assed brother. <G> > > Rob
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#8. RE: [E36M3] Pads and Rotors R&R this weekend - from Mike Frank
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Date: Thu, 09 May 2002 16:02:04 -0500 From: Mike Frank <mfrank28@comcast.net> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Pads and Rotors R&R this weekend Also, if you have trouble getting the rear rotors on, pull the leather boot on the p-brake lever and check the cables. On my car the driver's side cable was quite a bit tighter for some reason. I was able to barely get the rotor on using the screw type adjuster for the shoes, but the p-brake was engaged with the lever down - would only pull up 1-2 clicks. HTH, Mike Frank > -------------------- 7 -------------------- > Date: Thu, 9 May 2002 12:51:55 -0400 > From: "matthew c. mead" <mmead-bmw@goof.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Pads and Rotors R&R this weekend > > On Thu, May 09, 2002 at 11:48:34AM -0500, mkelley wrote: > > Just looking for some last minute advice...have parts in > hand and all > > tools and supplies (I think) to R&R rotors (Brembo front, factory > > rear(ATE?) and pads (Hawk HPS) plus 2 liters ATE Blue for > fluid flush. > > I've read various web tech write-ups (ie Racepad, TCKline, > etc), have > > a Bentley's manual, and I think I'm ready. Any last minute BTDT, > > PITA-avoidance advice would be greatly appreciated....like "don't > > worry about checking rotors for run-out" or "be sure to check > > run-out", etc. Thanks in advance. > > Be sure to release the parking brake when removing the rear rotors. > > Heh. > > > -matt
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#9. replace radiator - from Gary A. Preece
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Date: Thu, 9 May 2002 17:26:43 -0400 From: "Gary A. Preece" <gapreece@entreky.net> Subject: replace radiator I just got my stuff from Zygmunt. Radiator, hoses, tie rods, sway bar links, etc. The radiator does have the BMW sticker and the Roundel molded into the end ($140.00 special) I have a gallon of distilled water and BMW coolant, new clips, rivets, and hoses. Anything else I might need or advice? Thanks. Gary
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#10. Re: [E36M3] replace radiator - from Robert Chay
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Date: Thu, 09 May 2002 17:46:49 -0400 From: Robert Chay <rchay@mindspring.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] replace radiator You might want to use some Redline Water Wetter while you're at it. A full flush is a bit more than 2 gallons. I used 1 gal of BMW coolant, 2 gals of distilled water and 2 bottles of Redline Water Wetter (but you should be fine with 1 bottle). I didn't use a lot of the 2nd gal of distilled water. I saw Redline being sold at Pepboys so it's not a mail order part (and it's cheaper at Pepboys). -Bobby ----- Original Message ----- > > I just got my stuff from Zygmunt. Radiator, hoses, tie rods, sway bar links, > etc. The radiator does have the BMW sticker and the Roundel molded into the > end ($140.00 special) > > I have a gallon of distilled water and BMW coolant, new clips, rivets, and > hoses. Anything else I might need or advice? > > Thanks. > > Gary >