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#1. Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re:Suspension tuning questions - from Mo Karamat
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Date: Wed, 15 May 2002 00:06:00 -0400 From: Mo Karamat <karamatm@optonline.net> Subject: Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re:Suspension tuning questions Mike, Last year I had a larger rear anti-sway bar installed in my e30. Everyone told me to have its mounting tabs reinforced as well. The bar came with a bunch of hardware to do so. I called up a mechanic named Rick Kieiceniuk (908) 782-4335 (I have no relation to Rick, other than the fact he has done some work on my cars)to do the install.. He is a CCA member, and a old club racer, and a current driving instructor... During the install, he promptly took ALL of the reinforcement hardware, and tossed it in the garbage. Rick's point was that the reinforcement tabs just thicken the bracket, not the mounting point. He welded quite a bit of steel around the stock brackets, as well as welding a "T" support underneath the brackets. He did an excellent job. I would highly recommend him. When I buy aftermarket bars for my e36m3, I will have Rick install them as well... Hope this helps Mo -------------------- 6 -------------------- Date: Tue, 14 May 2002 10:21:21 -0500 From: "Michael Stembera" <m_stembera@yahoo.com> Subject: Re:Suspension tuning questions How exactly does one best reinforce the swaybar mounts/tabs? Do you need to reinforce both front and back? Thanks, Mike -----------------------------
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#2. Tire questions.. - from Mo Karamat
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Date: Wed, 15 May 2002 00:18:17 -0400 From: Mo Karamat <karamatm@optonline.net> Subject: Tire questions.. Dear All, Hello.. I have a question that I would like input on.. I need to buy a set of cheap tires for autox/track use. I am looking at the Yokohama A520's. Does anyone on the list have any experience with these tires? They seem to be good performance tires at a GREAT price($102/ea) To reduce understeer a little, I am also thinking about getting 235/40 17's all around. I will be putting the tires on stock size 7.5" rims in the front, and 8.5" in the rear. Are there any issues with rubbing in the front? How about any issues with using a slightly smaller tire in the rear with the 8.5" rims? I spoke with Yokohama today, and they said that I should be fine... The other interesting thing is that they recommended 31 PSI in the front, and 36 PSI in the rear.. Does this make sense to anyone? I normally run higher pressures in the front (with staggered tire sizes) I was considering the Kumho mx's, but tire rack does not seem to know when they will be getting them.. Thanks Mo
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#3. Re: [E36M3] Need '95 M3 head gasket with cutting rings - from Scott Blazey
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Date: Wed, 15 May 2002 00:42:34 -0500 From: Scott Blazey <edpm3@earthlink.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Need '95 M3 head gasket with cutting rings One thing that all M50/S50 owners need to keep an eye on is the coolant expansion tank filler neck. You'll notice that the threads for the radiator cap don't go completely around the neck. There is a good possibility that, given time, the neck will elongate toward the side with no threads. As a result, the cap will not seal properly and you can get coolant leakage and overheating. The filler neck on my '95 M3 was still round. The water pump, thermostat, thermostat housing, and radiator had all been changed as preventive measures. So we are still wondering how and why the head gasket went bad. Apparently, there's a lot of that going around. --Scott ---------------------- At 10:38 PM -0500 5/14/02, E36M3 wrote: >Date: Tue, 14 May 2002 16:10:34 -0700 >From: Scott Chan <s_chan@pacbell.net> >Subject: Re: Need '95 M3 head gasket with cutting rings > >Here in CA, almost every '95 M3 race car, whether Stock or Prepared, >plus a bunch of track-driven street cars, have had overheating >problems. Most have been >cured by replacing the head gasket. Some report that they see signs of >leakage on the old gasket, others report seeing no damage. We haven't >gotten >the head off of my engine yet. > >The symptom is coolant coming out of the cap (pressure relief) under >heavy >engine load (1 or 2 fast laps). The "usual suspects", i.e., water pump, >thermostat, coolant cap were replaced without improving the situation. > >My engine is stock except for cams. The engine has 6,000 miles on it >and the head >gasket was replaced about 1,000 miles ago (to replace the original, weak >'95 valve retainers and the resulting bent valve). > >--Scott > >>It appears my race car has fallen victim to the dreaded >>'95 M3 weak head gasket disease... > >I've never heard about this one. Is this a stock engine, or >a pumped up version? Tell us more, please. > >Carl Stern >95 w/18k
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#4. RE: [E36M3] 4-point roll bar - from JUSTIN GERRY
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Date: Wed, 15 May 2002 09:17:18 -0400 From: "JUSTIN GERRY" <JGERRY@butchers.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] 4-point roll bar If you only used the Scroth 4-point harness belts and you had a rollbar (NOT a full cage) would it still be safe to use it on the street? It was my understanding that the 4 point rollbar is acceptible if you use your 4 point harness all the time (street or track). Just curious as to your thoughts on this setup. Thanks, Justin -- '76 02 (Whimsical) '97 M3 (Orion) BMW CCA#77056 check out http://users.vei.net/jgerry
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#5. Eibach Pro Kit Springs Question - from Wayne Miller
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Date: Wed, 15 May 2002 10:40:49 -0400 From: "Wayne Miller" <m3@waynemiller.com> Subject: Eibach Pro Kit Springs Question I am planning on putting on a set of Eibach Pro Kit springs tomorrow night and I was wondering if they require the slightly larger '95 spring hats. Any first hand experience here? The car is a '99 and I would like to have all of the pieces ready so I don't run into any snags during the installation. -Wayne
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#6. Re: [E36M3] Lowered with 245-40's all around - from twisty M3
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Date: Wed, 15 May 2002 08:06:12 -0700 From: "twisty M3" <twistym3@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Lowered with 245-40's all around Based on my experience and speaking with several people who've run factory 8.5" wheels with 245s in the front, I'd have to disagree. It's close, but I've had absolutely no issues and no polishing of the strut even. If you just want to increase your front track, by all means order some spacers. Otherwise, you can save some money. One quick way to find out if you'll have fitment issues is to swap your front/rear wheels and take a drive around the block (especially if you already have the tires you'll be running on the rears). That's also a fun way to see what an oversteering car really feels like. ;) Jonathan L. > >You should really order the spacers if you want to >run these tires .... > _________________________________________________________________ Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com
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#7. See you all later... - from Mark Radelow
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Date: Wed, 15 May 2002 15:12:16 +0000 From: "Mark Radelow" <radelow@hotmail.com> Subject: See you all later... Gotta unsubscribe...I am leaving for Europe today for some much needed vacation. Take care! Mark _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp.
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#8. Help w/ m3 accident - from Mike
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Date: Wed, 15 May 2002 08:49:00 -0700 From: "Mike" <mike@worklife.com> Subject: Help w/ m3 accident I recently purchased my E36 1997 Alpine White M3 Coupe. (Within the last 3 weeks) Last night while leaving south coast plaza, while sitting at a red light, a older woman in a Honda accord bumped me from behind. The damage looks to be 3 or 4 - 6 inch long gashes along my back bumper, along with the paint appearing to spider out from the point of impact. (Kinda chipping/flaking around the area) We exchanged information, and went on our way. The woman stated "Sorry, I was day dreaming". Sigh ;( When I got home, upon further inspection, it appears the black molding around the bumper seems to be mis aligned now - with a 3 inch gap where it should be lining up. Anyone have any idea of what kinda damage I'm describing here pricewise? What are other common problems I should be sure to check out from this kind of smaller rear impact? I'm thinking of taking the car to Irvine bmw to get an estimate of the damage and repairs. Anyone have any suggestions? Do they usually handle this in house? Or will they suggest somewhere else to take it? Do I need an appointment at Irvine bmw to look over the damage, or can I just pull in for an inspection? Also -- What would be my best bet in terms of insurance? I'm thinking of giving them the option to go through insurance or pay the estimate. does that sound reasonable? If we do go through insurance, would my rates increase? Lastly, anyone have any paint/body shops they would recommend in the OC area? I really want to get this fixed right. If this would have been my other car (1990 Eclipse Turbo) I would just go take the thing to one day paint and get the whole car painted again, but I wouldn't DARE take my m3 there or anywhere else shady like that. Let me know! -Mike
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#9. STB cap nuts - from andy radin
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Date: Wed, 15 May 2002 09:02:31 -0700 From: "andy radin" <fourfa@mindspring.com> Subject: STB cap nuts I forget who was asking about these, but the conical strut tower bar nuts are still listed on the JT Designs webpage (www.jt-designs.com) for $54 a set. andy r. 98 m3/2
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#10. Build Your Own M3? - from Reid Conti
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Date: Wed, 15 May 2002 09:02:01 -0700 From: Reid Conti <reid@conti.net> Subject: Build Your Own M3? Question for y'all. I've heard two different lines: 1. You can build your own M3, given enough money. Take an E36, say a 328 coupe. Pull out and replace w/M3 parts all of the obvious: Engine, Tranny, Drivetrain, Diff, Brakes, Wheels, Interior (seats, dash, etc), Suspension, Cosmetics (mirrors) and so on. This car will basically be an M3 without the proper VIN #. 2. You cannot build your own M3, because the actual chassis is different on the M car. which is correct? Just curious. I have a 95 M3, and if my car was NOT an M3 I'd sell it and buy one, not try to build one.. but I've always wondered. - reid