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#1. Re: exhaust or flywheel - from Ron Buchalski
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Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 20:19:54 +0000 From: "Ron Buchalski" <rbuchals@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: exhaust or flywheel Gary, I think you'll find that the total cost for these two mods isn't as close as you think. You can buy an aftermarket exhaust for $500-700 (less for a used system), and install it in your driveway, with common tools, in less than an hour. On the other hand, a lightweight flywheel will cost you around $600, and will require the removal of the exhaust, driveshaft, and transmission to install it. Unless you have the means to do this yourself, you'll find that a mechanic will probably charge $400 or so. -rb >Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 18:26:54 -0400 >From: "Gary A. Preece" <gapreece@entreky.net> >Subject: exhaust or flywheel > >If you had $700, which would you add to your M3? A new lightweight flywheel >or an aftermarket exhaust. Positives? Of course there is the potential for >rattles or loudness. _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp.
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#2. E36 M3 clock display - from Jim Musial
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Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 17:45:35 -0400 From: "Jim Musial" <jim_musial@usa.net> Subject: E36 M3 clock display Just did it in mine. Easy fix as most likely it's a burnt out bulb. Pull out the OBC (feel in the map cubby and there is a hole in the top. Push the ribbed plasitc part that you feel and push outward while trying to pull out the OBC (it's really quite easy). There will be 4 screws on top. Pull out the out above the clock and replace. A few bucks max. -------------------- 6 -------------------- Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 08:24:27 -0700 (PDT) From: Jay <jlafoi49@yahoo.com> Subject: What time is....wait! Where's the clock? Just noticed last night that my clock display disappeared from my OBC. Any fixes and how much will it cost? Thanks! J
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#3. Sticker Update! - from Sue Kraft
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Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 17:34:40 -0500 From: Sue Kraft <suekraft@new.rr.com> Subject: Sticker Update! Great news! The decals are done and I should have them in a few days. Details will follow shortly as to how to order them, so stay tuned. First I just wanted to thank everyone who helped make them happen. Many thanks to Michael Morris's girlfriend, Amanda Williams, for designing the winning decal. It looks great! Check it out on Ben Liaw's car http://www.bmw-m.net/decal.htm Next, thanks to Wayne Miller for organizing the voting last year. Your assistance was very much appreciated. And last, thanks to Ben Liaw of Rogue engineering for coming up with the idea of vinyl cling decals and getting them ordered for me. I would not have known the first thing of what to do or who to contact, and Ben took care of all of that for me. Thanks Ben, Wayne, Michael and Amanda (and everyone else who contributed designs, also!) Like I said, the decals will be here in a day or two. Can't wait to see them! Stay tuned..... Suzy
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#4. Re: cad plated x-drilled rotors? - from Dave Lehmann
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Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 19:23:50 -0400 From: "Dave Lehmann" <bmwracefan@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: cad plated x-drilled rotors? >From: RacerxJLing@aol.com >Who makes a good quality Cad plated X-drilled front/rear rotor for the E36 >M3? Try http://www.pureperf.com/ They have KVR rotors. Look great, but haven't had them on the track yet. Only received them last week. Free shipping and a descent price. Dave
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#5. Another Climate Control Question - from Ken Dobyns
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Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 18:07:51 -0700 From: Ken Dobyns <ken_d@mac.com> Subject: Another Climate Control Question Hi all, I also recently developed a problem with the climate control in my '98. When I use the front defrost setting, everything seems to work; the fan goes on high and all the vents change to direct the air to the windshield. The problem is that after a short period of time the airflow gets cut off completely. Basically, it sounds like the defrost vents are being closed after the process starts. The same thing happens if you try to arrange things manually - the defrost vents just won't pass any air. So, any suggestions or comments? I am ready to start disassembling and looking around, and any guidance would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Ken Dobyns Portland, OR
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#6. Brake pad replacement? - from Thomas G. Clark
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Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 21:12:24 -0500 From: "Thomas G. Clark" <toclark@cisco.com> Subject: Brake pad replacement? Hi, I know this is going to cause a fire storm, but I need some advice on what I should be running for track pads on my '99 M3. The car is pretty stock but i use the brakes pretty hard. (If your familiar with Road America, I come into turn 5 at about 120 and brake about 2-3/4.) I totally cooked the stock brakes last time and have just replaced the stock rotors with European floating rotors. I'm still using stock pads and think I may have better luck with track pads. What are your recommendations? Tom
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#7. RE: [E36M3] Brake pad replacement? - from M-Power
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Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 23:38:17 -0500 From: "M-Power" <M-Power@austin.rr.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Brake pad replacement? If you want pads for both the street & the track, I would recommend Hawk HP+ pads. That is what I have been using recently with stock rotors. If you want pads just for the track, I now have Porterfield R4 pads & Euro floating rotors that I will be testing this weekend at a 3-day DE event @ Texas Motor Speedway using the ALMS track with the Porsche Club. For street only pads, I have heard good reports about Porterfield R4S pads, but I have not tested them. - Jim Hagerman -----Original Message----- From: Thomas G. Clark [mailto:toclark@cisco.com] Sent: Tuesday, May 21, 2002 21:25 To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] Brake pad replacement? Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 21:12:24 -0500 From: "Thomas G. Clark" <toclark@cisco.com> Subject: Brake pad replacement? Hi, I know this is going to cause a fire storm, but I need some advice on what I should be running for track pads on my '99 M3. The car is pretty stock but i use the brakes pretty hard. (If your familiar with Road America, I come into turn 5 at about 120 and brake about 2-3/4.) I totally cooked the stock brakes last time and have just replaced the stock rotors with European floating rotors. I'm still using stock pads and think I may have better luck with track pads. What are your recommendations? Tom ************************************************************* List Commands UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). To issue a command/request to the server: Send a message with the command you wish executed as the subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. *************************************************************
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#8. Re: [E36M3] Brake pad replacement? - from Chester Wong
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Date: Wed, 22 May 2002 07:11:29 -0700 (PDT) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Brake pad replacement? A good choice would be the Porterfield PF97s and I would add brake ducts to help extend the life of the pads. Chester --- "Thomas G. Clark" <toclark@cisco.com> wrote: > rotors with European floating rotors. I'm still using stock pads and think > I may have better luck with track pads. What are your recommendations? ===== __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? LAUNCH - Your Yahoo! Music Experience http://launch.yahoo.com
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#9. [E36M3] Dust shields [was Brake pad replacement?] - from Jeff A
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Date: Wed, 22 May 2002 09:24:38 -0500 From: "Jeff A" <aabel@austin.rr.com> Subject: [E36M3] Dust shields [was Brake pad replacement?] > > A good choice would be the Porterfield PF97s and I would add brake ducts to > help extend the life of the pads. > > Chester Speaking of brake ducts, how effective is it to remove the dust shields? I was going to try that first and see how it goes. With Porterfield R4 track pads, I still managed to overcook the brakes slightly. Pedal stayed reasonably firm, but the compound 'smeared' slightly on the rotor after a particularly hard run session, and upon removing the pads, I noticed some glazing and slight crumbling. Whether or not I need ducts, I still need to remove the shields. Anyone know why they are there? Any tips on removal? Looks like I have to remove the hub. Grassyass. Jeff
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#10. hid upgrade - from Cody_McCoy
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Date: Wed, 22 May 2002 09:04:00 -0700 From: Cody_McCoy <Cody_McCoy@Aurorabio.com> Subject: hid upgrade Group, Just got a 6000k hid kit(autolamps-online.com), was wondering for those that have done upgrade, are the added relays neccesary? or can I use existing ones? or possibly upgrade existing ones to higher rating on contact side, kit came with power leads(red and black wires) do these need to go to battery?, or can I tie it in to existing power leads for old lights?,already checked Alan Taur's tech section as well as unofficialbmw, ecubed and the uuc/ford hid page but to no avail, I possibly am failing in the common sense dept. so please bare with me, obviously the instructions are lacking in this area but the kit looks good partswise, philips ballasts, proper bases, clear xenon bulb cells, good arc protection,ie; heatshrink, omron relays, and even fast delivery from UK(3days) to cali, thanks again all. Cody McCoy 95 m3/2 mailto:Cody_McCoy@aurorabio.com