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#1. Re: What am I missing? - from Neil Maller
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Date: Wed, 22 May 2002 16:34:47 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: What am I missing? on 5/22/02 4:04 PM, Steve Klein <klein@robinsonad.com> wrote: > Oh wise wuns- > All the bits for the TC Kline Streetline kit are now in my > possession, and as I prepare to do the big overhaul, some things puzzle > me. Mainly the front shock/strut assembly. > > The shock has a threaded insert on the bottom, but when I removed > the wheel to do a visual familiarization with the strut, I could not > locate the corresponding bolt. After musing at the coffee shop for a > bit, I concluded that it must be fixed in the bottom of the strut > housing, and once removed, the old shock will unscrew and lift out, with > the new one installed in a reverse fashion. Is this correct? Nope. You have to remove your stock strut assemblies, take them apart, then cut them open to remove and discard the guts so that you can reuse the casings. This is the well known Koni cut & gut routine. I'm sending you my instructions for it off-Digest. > I also got their MonoBall RSM's with the kit, but no gasket. Am I > correct in remembering that one is needed? I seem to remember someone > mentioning making one out of cardboard. Reuse the stock paper gaskets, or preferably buy new ones. > And for those with this setup, by how much did you trim the bump > stops, and was that off the top or bottom? The front coils are > 50410.55's, and the insert says .75" 'when lowering springs are > installed...' I was under the impression that these springs kept the > stock ride height. You shouldn't need to trim the bumpstops with these springs. > Lastly, my venture will consist of RTB's, CA's/Bushings, RSM's, > shocks and springs. Where should I apply Loc-Tite? And no, I won't apply > it to myself. You will need to Loctite the two lower bolts that hold the front struts to the kingpin. Neil 96 M3
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#2. Re: [E36M3] Dust shields - from Jeremy Lucas
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Date: Wed, 22 May 2002 17:39:18 -0400 From: "Jeremy Lucas" <jlucas@columbus.rr.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Dust shields Actually, for a little additional cooling you could bend in (towards the engine) your existing dust shield in the front half only. This will act like a scoop for the air coming from the stock brake duct. I believe Turner recommends this an a interim solution to the full ducted hub backing plate. I know designing the OE dust shield with a premade scoop shape has proven effective at reducing brake temperatures (based on experience that I am not a liberty to discuss in any more detail) on cars that do not even have any type brake ducts. Jeremy 95 M3 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dorffer, Rich" <RDORFFER@CleIndians.com> Jeff writes > > Whether or not I need ducts, I still need to remove the shields. Anyone > know why they are there? Any tips on removal? Looks like I have to remove > the hub. Why would you remove the dust shields? Do you really think they will allow more air to get to the rotor. I have a tendency to believe that the BMW engineers know what they are doing when they put this stuff in place. Unless you are putting in ducts with proper backing plates, I wouldn't remove the dust shields.
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#3. Re: FW: What am I missing? - from Steve Klein
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Date: Wed, 22 May 2002 16:47:41 -0500 From: Steve Klein <klein@robinsonad.com> Subject: Re: FW: What am I missing? Thank you Neil- That's exactly what I'll need to plan the procedure. A very thorough write-up. Thanks again for your help, Steve
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#4. Re: [E36M3] What am I missing? - from sk99m3@attbi.com
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Date: Thu, 23 May 2002 00:24:30 +0000 From: sk99m3@attbi.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] What am I missing? Check out: http://www.racepad.com/tech/bmw/change_rear_shock_mounts/ change_rear_shock_mounts.htm http://www.vfaq.com/mods/Konis.html http://www.logun.org/suspension.htm Instead of the socket with the flats ground on the outside, I had a machine shop weld a handle on to the socket. If you're local to Sacramento, California, you're welcome to borrow it. Instead of a hacksaw, I used a strut cut-off tool. Makes a nice clean cut and it's only around $20. Part #31500 at: http://www.lislecorp.com/tools/catalog/exhaust/index.htm The part number for the RSM gasket is here: http://www.uucmotorwerks.com/html_techtip/techtips/rear_s hock_mounts.htm -spencer '99M3 > All the bits for the TC Kline Streetline kit are now in my > possession, and as I prepare to do the big overhaul, some things puzzle > me. Mainly the front shock/strut assembly.
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#5. Re: [E36M3] Dust shields [was Brake pad replacement?] - from Jeff A
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Date: Wed, 22 May 2002 19:59:29 -0500 From: "Jeff A" <aabel@austin.rr.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Dust shields [was Brake pad replacement?] Jeff writes > > Whether or not I need ducts, I still need to remove the shields. Anyone > know why they are there? Any tips on removal? Looks like I have to remove > the hub. Why would you remove the dust shields? Do you really think they will allow more air to get to the rotor. I have a tendency to believe that the BMW engineers know what they are doing when they put this stuff in place. Unless you are putting in ducts with proper backing plates, I wouldn't remove the dust shields. Unless you are talking about those aftermarket brake dust shields, then I would question why you ever put them on in the first place ;-) Just kidding. Later, Rich --------------- Rich, Some CCA racer friends said that dust shield removal is an intermediate step before migrating to bimmerworld-type backing plates and ducting. I didn't dream up the 'mod.' Based on some recent time on the track, I need more cooling, and wanted to experiment with dust shield removal before migrating to ducting. My understanding is that the stock dust shields are present to isolate the rotors from road debris, not enhance cooling. . . after all brake cooling for a street driven car ain't all that critical. BTW, NSX's ain't all that. ;) Just had to throw that in there. Jeff
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#6. Diff fluid (mobil 1 vs redline) - from Jeremy Lucas
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Date: Thu, 23 May 2002 06:45:41 -0400 From: "Jeremy Lucas" <jlucas@columbus.rr.com> Subject: Diff fluid (mobil 1 vs redline) I've just done extensive searching in the archives and haven't come up with an answer that I'm satisfied with. Has anyone tried both brands? I've read all the responses from people that have one or the other but trying to find someone that has had both has left me without any answers. Anyone care to comment based on personal experience? If it matters, my car sees up to a dozen track days per year. Jeremy Lucas 95 M3
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#7. Write-up for changing belts? - from Scott King
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Date: Thu, 23 May 2002 07:06:28 -0400 From: "Scott King" <vw8vgti@hotmail.com> Subject: Write-up for changing belts? <html><div style='background-color:'><DIV> <P>Can anyone point me to a write-up dealing with changing out the accessory drive belts? I'm about due and want to get some background on the job. Looks pretty tight in there...is really that bad of a job?</P> <P>Also, as I am nearing 60k I was planning on probably doing the radiator/hoses etc. I have a 8/97 build date M3 so what is the feeling considering the waterpump? I would assume that I would definitely have the metal impeller version, so should I just leave it as is, or should I go ahead and swap out for new while I am in there?</P> <P>Any help or thoughts would be greatly appreciated.</P> <P>Scott King<BR><BR></P></DIV></div><br clear=all><hr>Join the world’s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. <a href='http://g.msn.com/1HM305401/47'>Click Here</a><br></html>
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#8. Re: [E36M3] Write-up for changing belts? - from Chester Wong
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Date: Thu, 23 May 2002 07:24:08 -0700 (PDT) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Write-up for changing belts? IIRC, you'll need a 8mm allen socket and a ratchet. You probably won't have enough leverage with a standard 8mm allen key. The lower the profile, the better. My setup consists of a Facom 3/8" ratchet (long handle) and a Craftsman 8mm allen socket. With that setup, it's very tight and you squish the radiator shroud a bit. Remove the undertray. You'll need a small flat head screwdriver to pop off the covers on the tensioner pulleys. Then use the 8mm allen socket to release the tension on the belts with one hand while lifting the belt off the pulley with the other hand. You do the AC belt first and then the main belt. For the main belt, you'll have to manipulate it past the fan. For the cooling system, I wouldn't worry about the water pump, but if you haven't flushed the system, I would. Also, inspect the belts and give them a good squeeze to see if there are any soft spots. HTH, Chester --- Scott King <vw8vgti@hotmail.com> wrote: <P>Can anyone point me to a write-up dealing with changing out the accessory drive belts? I'm about due and want to get some background on the job. Looks pretty tight in there...is really that bad of a job?</P> <P>Also, as I am nearing 60k I was planning on probably doing the radiator/hoses etc. I have a 8/97 build date M3 so what is the feeling considering the waterpump? I would assume that I would definitely have the metal impeller version, so should I just leave it as is, or should I go ahead and swap out for new while I am in there?</P> <P>Any help or thoughts would be greatly appreciated.</P> <P>Scott King<BR><BR></P></DIV></div><br clear=all><hr>Join the world’s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. <a href='http://g.msn.com/1HM305401/47'>Click Here</a><br></html> ===== __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? LAUNCH - Your Yahoo! Music Experience http://launch.yahoo.com
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#9. Re: [E36M3] Diff fluid (mobil 1 vs redline) - from Chester Wong
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Date: Thu, 23 May 2002 07:30:38 -0700 (PDT) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Diff fluid (mobil 1 vs redline) You're going to get a lot of repsonses from people who like Mobil, but don't like Redline or any combination of the two. No one has performed a scientific study that has diffs in controlled environments and say put the equivalent of 50k miles or something like that and measuring wear....especially given the limited slip nature of our diffs. One thing is for sure...I like to replace that stuff once a year. Chester --- Jeremy Lucas <jlucas@columbus.rr.com> wrote: > I've just done extensive searching in the archives and haven't come up > with an answer that I'm satisfied with. Has anyone tried both brands? > I've read all the responses from people that have one or the other but > trying to find someone that has had both has left me without any > answers. ===== __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? LAUNCH - Your Yahoo! Music Experience http://launch.yahoo.com
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#10. 5 Point Harness - from Neil Maller
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Date: Thu, 23 May 2002 09:33:00 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: 5 Point Harness I've recently installed a TC Kline roll bar in my car. As a result I'd now like to move from the 2" Schroth Rallye 4 harnesses that have served me well for the past 4 years or so to a 3" harness with wrap mount to the bar. I've been looking at the Schroth Profi III ASM. However they're very expensive: a 5 point pair with shoulder pads comes to some $575 from HMS. There's also one disadvantage in that the mounting anchor is sewn in to the lap belt, so whichever of snap-in or bolt-in you order is what you're stuck with for ever. On the plus side the Schroths have the ASM feature, and an excellent rotary camlock latch (I don't want a duckbill or lever setup.) I've worn these in other people's cars and found them functional and well made. I'm soliciting opinions from other 5 point harness users. My questions: 1) Which harness did you buy and are you happy with it? 2) How and where did you mount the lap ends? I'd like to use snap-in mounts, which would work fine for the outboard lap belt to the stock seatbelt bar by the floor. However it's not obvious that there's a good way to do this on the inboard side, so I'm thinking that bolt-in to the seat rail mounts may be necessary. 3) How and where did you mount the sub strap? There's an HVAC air duct running under the centre of the seat which would suggest the need for offset mounting. I've ridden in cars set up this way (last weekend at Putnam park in fact) and it's a bit uncomfortable due to the side pull. I'm thinking about having a simple bar fabricated to go between the front seat rail mounting bolts (it'll have to be cranked up to clear the duct). This would provide a central (with respect to the seat) mounting hole for the sub belt. 4) With hindsight is there anything you would have done differently? Thanks in advance for all inputs. Neil 96 M3