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#1. Re: [E36M3] 5 Point Harness - from peter@guagenti.com
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Date: Thu, 23 May 2002 13:27:37 US/Pacific From: peter@guagenti.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] 5 Point Harness >1) Which harness did you buy and are you happy with it? I have Simpson Harnesses on both sides. They're 5 point Camlocks with the lever release. Having used a bunch of different styles, I have to say that i prefer the quick-release lever. It's very easy to know when it's open or shut, getting in and out way easier. I've driven in both the autopower and sparcos for comparison. >2) How and where did you mount the lap ends? Clip-in lap belts, clipped onto Metolius mountain-climbing bolt hangers (http://www.rei.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay? prrfnbr=1035&prmenbr=8000&cgrfnbr=4500708). I got the tip from Jim Ochi, and figured that something meant to support a climber dangling 100's of feet in the air should be good enough for a harness. I bolted the outboard ring into the shoulder belt base, and the inboard to the seat base. A better install would've been drilling and bolting the ring to the transmission tunnel, but I didn't want to drill through. >3) How and where did you mount the sub strap? Wrapped it around the seat frame, similar to the bar you planned. It's not optimal, but it's not actually in the best position either due to the seats I use not having a sub-strap hole. >4) With hindsight is there anything you would have done differently? The transmission tunnel thing, and I'd also probably have gotten better seats. If the car becomes a racer, I'd use Simpsons, but I'd get the install done by someone who knows the safety geometry better and could mount it more accurately. -p ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- This message was sent using HiSpeed Technologies Webmail. http://www.hispeed.com
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#2. Fwd: DOT tires + Our Government - from Andy Scott
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Date: Thu, 23 May 2002 16:22:57 -0500 From: Andy Scott <ascott@istrength.net> Subject: Fwd: DOT tires + Our Government >Our gov't screwing with our racing. (And all of us who enjoy an R tire >for autox and driving schools!!! -ascott) > >Read this and DO WHAT IT SAYS! > >http://www.hoosiertire.com/fmvsshlp.HTM > >rtb
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#3. RE: HID Upgrade - from Wesley A. Nicolas
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Date: Thu, 23 May 2002 17:44:25 -0400 From: "Wesley A. Nicolas" <wes@nicolas.org> Subject: RE: HID Upgrade Jim Powell has a mighty nice install procedure.. http://www.apexcone.com/Lighting/HIDs/HID.html
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#4. UNSCRIBE - from Lloyd
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Date: Thu, 23 May 2002 15:21:39 -0700 From: "Lloyd" <llmats1@netzero.net> Subject: UNSCRIBE
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#5. Re: 5 Point Harness - from Neil Maller
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Date: Thu, 23 May 2002 17:35:16 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: 5 Point Harness Many thanks to Bob, Dinah, Jeff, Jim, Justin, Kris, Wayne (hope I didn't forget anyone) who responded on this question. I got a bunch of good ideas from them. As to harness choice, it turns out that a friend was about to sell his Schroth Profi II harnesses, so I'm buying his. They have wrap shoulder mounts, snap-type lap mounts, and bolt-in sub straps. I'll probably install eyenuts (like eyebolts but you use separate bolts from the bottom) for the lap belts. The twin sub straps will either be installed on the seat rail front bolts, or may be replaced by a new single strap, depending on how the fit with the seat works out. Neil 96 M3
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#6. brake pads - from Gary A. Preece
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Date: Thu, 23 May 2002 21:59:57 -0400 From: "Gary A. Preece" <gapreece@entreky.net> Subject: brake pads Hey Guys and Gals, I want to hit a drivers ed. school very soon and I have PBS Deluxe pads on right now. I love that they are quiet and don't dust compared to the old Jurids, but I don't think that they would last on the track even for a first timer. What would be good to swap to just for the school? Anyone have any good used ones sitting around to sell cheap? Thanks. Gary
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#7. [E36M3] Air or Glazed? - from twisty M3
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Date: Thu, 23 May 2002 20:39:53 -0700 From: "twisty M3" <twistym3@hotmail.com> Subject: [E36M3] Air or Glazed? Is it possible to get air in the brake system just from changing pads? Doesn't seem like it's possible, and I've never had a problem before, but something's going on. Normally when I change to track pads, they do take a while to feel "streetable" (i.e. to get some bite), and they obviously work much better when heated up. I changed pads out yesterday, however, and they still feel "off" today. I went out and found some space to get them really heated up, and they still weren't as good as usual. Maybe they're just not bedded in yet (Porterfield R4), but is it possible that they may be glazed? I checked the condition before installing, but I'm not sure what to look for in regards to glazing. I just look too make sure there's enough material and that they aren't crumbling apart. ;) These were the same pads that I used at Laguna Seca. If they're just glazed (which is what I'm assuming is going on, unless I'm just more impatient than usual with having them bed in), is it possible for them to "come back" after they really get heated up or wear off that first layer of pad? Hoping glazed isn't another word for finished! I'm leaving for Willow Springs tomorrow, so any input before then is greatly appreciated. Thanks to all, Jonathan L. _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp.
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#8. Oil Serive Light - from Johnny Lee
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Date: Thu, 23 May 2002 23:58:12 -0400 From: Johnny Lee <mclee@ieee.org> Subject: Oil Serive Light Just a question for the people who change their own oil. Do you follow the dashboard indicator light or change the oil by the mileage. I was going to just follow the light but my mechanic said that i should change the oil no more than 4000 miles. Is that a correct approach or the light is a better indicator? Thanks, -Johnny mailto:mclee@ieee.org
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#9. Re: [E36M3] Oil Serive Light - from Chris Teague
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Date: Thu, 23 May 2002 21:14:56 -0700 From: "Chris Teague" <cteague@cox.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Oil Serive Light I change the oil after 2-3 lights are out (1/2 way), and again when all green lights are out, and it says to change the oil. then I reset the light. So about twice as often as the light says. probably close to or a little over the 4K mile mark. Chris 97 M3/4 ----- Original Message ----- > Date: Thu, 23 May 2002 23:58:12 -0400 > From: Johnny Lee <mclee@ieee.org> > Subject: Oil Serive Light > > > Just a question for the people who change their own oil. Do you follow the > dashboard indicator light or change the oil by the mileage. I was going to > just follow the light but my mechanic said that i should change the oil no > more than 4000 miles. Is that a correct approach or the light is a better > indicator?
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#10. Re: [E36M3] Oil Serive Light - from twisty M3
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Date: Thu, 23 May 2002 21:25:18 -0700 From: "twisty M3" <twistym3@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Oil Serive Light The great oil-changing interval debate. ;) You'll probably get a few answers as to when, but if you go by the service lights, you'd probably only be changing the oil every 10-12k miles, which I think is excessive. Even with synthetic I change mine apx. every 3k miles for peace of mind, depending on conditions. I still take it in for the actual Oil Service and Inspections to my real mechanic (since they'll get all the things I miss). Some might say you can go the full 10k miles or more on the same sythetic oil, but I don't feel comfortable doing that. Jonathan L. >From: Johnny Lee <mclee@ieee.org> > > > Just a question for the people who change their own oil. Do you follow >the >dashboard indicator light or change the oil by the mileage. I was going to >just follow the light but my mechanic said that i should change the oil no >more than 4000 miles. Is that a correct approach or the light is a better >indicator? > > Thanks, > >-Johnny _________________________________________________________________ Join the world’s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. http://www.hotmail.com