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#1. Re: [E36M3] brake pads - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 10:11:51 -0700 From: Jim Bassett <jimbassett@attbi.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] brake pads At 07:24 PM 5/23/02, Gary A. Preece talked about: >I want to hit a drivers ed. school very soon and I have PBS Deluxe pads on >right now. I love that they are quiet and don't dust compared to the old >Jurids, but I don't think that they would last on the track even for a first >timer. From what I hear, most definitely not. Change them. >What would be good to swap to just for the school? Anyone have any >good used ones sitting around to sell cheap? Thanks. For a first-time student, nothing beats stock <g>. The Jurids will be just fine for your first track school. Someone may have some to sell, or any of the online vendors should have them fairly cheaply (Bimmerparts, Ultimate Garage, etc.). By getting a decent pad in there, you've gone a long way to obeying Rule #1: Don't scare your instructor <g>. Once you've followed Rule #1, go after Rule #2: Have Fun! Cheers, Jim Bassett
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#2. Check Engine light on 95.. - from Reid Conti
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Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 10:23:52 -0700 From: Reid Conti <reid@conti.net> Subject: Check Engine light on 95.. Howdy! As it turns out, exactly 1 year ago this afternoon (4:30pm or so) I first drove off in my *brand new* 42,9xx mile 95 Daytona Violet M3 :) To commemorate her birthday (and 19k miles), she threw a CHECK ENGINE light today. Since it's a 95, I don't have to worry about the fuel cap issue, or multiple sensors.. am I correct in thinking that the only thing that really causes CHECK ENGINE on a 95 is a bad O2 sensor? The sensor was replaced by the previous owner sometime in the 30k mile range.. When he had it emissions checked to sell to me, he threw a check engine and failed the emissions check.. it hadn't been driven much at all in the last 6 months. He took it to a local independent shop who charged him $100 to tell him that nothing was wrong. Sure enough, it passed the next test with flying colors, and has been basically flawless the past 19k miles and 1 year for me. This morning, I was driving away from my house, and rather than doing 32mph or so in third gear, I was restricted to about 28-30mph, so I kept it in second. Figured better to hold it close to 3k when cold than to drop it much below 2k. I think the tach ended up hitting 3k and sitting there for 5 seconds at one point. A minute later, the check engine light turned on. When convenient, I shut the car off, and restarted. Light stayed on immediately, so I figured it was a stored code. I was almost out of gas, so I filled 'er up, and drove on my way to work. The light stayed on after getting gas and putting around city streets for a minute, but went out sometime after I hit the highway. So here's my question. Is it the O2 sensor? Is it easy to replace? Is there an easy way for me to check codes? Is the light going to come back on? If not, do I have to worry about it? I'm kind of thinking maybe it just threw the light because I was holding it at 3k instead of taking it up there and shifting as I usually do.. then once I let it rev on the highway it was all cleared up. any thoughts? thanks - reid
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#3. RE: [E36M3] re: Oil Service - from Juan Rico
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Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 11:47:15 -0700 From: Juan Rico <juan_rico@captionsinc.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] re: Oil Service Why do car enthusiasts insist on knowing more than professional engineers who design cars and engines for a living and who work for some of the best car manufacturers in the world? Can somebody tell me that? My 95 M3 has 146K. Since 6K miles, when I bought it, I've replaced the engine oil following SI lights, never in between intervals... and I've religiously observed all the I1 and I2's. My tranny and differential fluids have never been changed during my ownership (that I know of). My car sees 3 to 4 "serious" canyon runs a week, with sustained high RPM's (Mullholland highway from Malibu Canyon to PCH, for all you LA locals) Hey, that's my commute. NEVER an engine problem, NEVER a tranny or differential problem. Still shifts and runs like a dream. Many other "dumb" problems, though. I average 2 to 3 cold starts a day, around 10 to 15 starts in total, most of them for short trips to the Starbucks 10 blocks down from work. According to all the hoopla with condensation, short trips, changing oil every 3000K miles, tranny and differential fluid swaps, all that...(sigh), my car would literally run like an Escort right now because I've done everything that is considered wrong (even a capital sin) by all the so-called experts on the subject. Well, not quite. If you don't track your car, DRIVE THE FRIGGIN' CAR, follow whatever BMW says and worry less... Just my experience... -----Original Message----- From: Burgess, Kim L [mailto:kim.l.burgess@boeing.com] Sent: Friday, May 24, 2002 10:05 AM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] re: Oil Service Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 09:56:52 -0700 From: "Burgess, Kim L" <kim.l.burgess@boeing.com> Subject: re: Oil Service "Manual says every 7,500 miles" ........and I have heard it said that under severe driving conditions our 'service lights' will count-down based on usage - sustained high RPM, number of cold starts, etc., etc.. I believe the 'change every 3k' mile myth is based on days when oil lacked the additives present today, and before sophisticated fuel injection systems existed that limit cold-start wash-down and WOT lean/rich conditions (NA engines of course). To support this belief, my recent year long overseas assignment taught me that the European community (well....Scottish community anyway) changes their crankcase lubrication fluid every 10k miles or on one year intervals (whichever comes first). So I believe the European community is a bit more conscious of the cost (out of pocket and environmental) and a bit less influenced by marketing and myth. Just my $.02 KLBurgess ************************************************************* List Commands UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). To issue a command/request to the server: Send a message with the command you wish executed as the subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. *************************************************************
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#4. New brake pads - from David Ngo
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Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 14:48:04 -0400 From: David Ngo <dngo@commvault.com> Subject: New brake pads Hi, I just got a new catalog from Porterfield yesterday and they had a few new pad compounds that I was curious about. They're not event listed on their web page yet. Has anyone tried the following pads: 1. The PF 02. It's supposed to be their newest, best track/race pad, better than the PF97. 2. The Porterfield R4-1. They claim that this pad is designed to work very well at low temperatures and be used in applications where peak temps do not go over 1200 deg. F. The description says that these are extremely well suited to autocross since they have an average friction coefficient of 0.580 (!) under 600 deg. They're supposed to be very rotor friendly, too. Of course, I forgot to bring the catalog with me to work, so I might be a little off on the exact specs. The catalog is very interesting - I didn't realize they carried so much other stuff (the Wilwood calipers they have sound awesome.) Thanks, Dave --- David Ngo dngo@commvault.com CommVault Systems, Inc. (732) 870-4618
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#5. Euro Taillight Check Control error...help? - from Paul Elliott
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Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 15:12:17 -0400 From: "Paul Elliott" <elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net> Subject: Euro Taillight Check Control error...help? This is driving me nuts, as if I didnt have enough problems with Bekkers's already. Anyway, one of my new taillights is causing me a Check Engine light accompanied by a Taillight Failure OBC msg. Its weird, because after I turn the car on, its fine for 10 minutes..Then, the damn msg...If I then turn the car off and on, it goes away for another 10 minutes, when back it comes! They swore to me that I have the lamps wtih the check control. Ive checked the connectors, and each bulb, and all are tight. One think is that the driver side stock light has 1 pin missing, but in the replacement, all 8 are there....I believe the passenger side clear is configured the same as stock. Can I just pull the pin out of the replacement like its configured in stock or, do I need to get it replaced. Any ideas what I can do? Bekkers has driven me nuts with this whole purchase, shipping damages, wrong sides, etc, etc. thanks. Paul Elliott --------------------------------------------------------- '99 White M3; < 45K miles; Dinan stage II SC kit with 6" RMS crank pulley: 11 psi; AA Water Injection; Fikse FM-10s; X-Brace; Dinan Koni Suspension; Stygar SS and Clutch Stop; Sound by Polk, Excelon, JLAudio
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#6. Re: [E36M3] Check Engine light on 95.. - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 12:09:01 -0700 From: Jim Bassett <jimbassett@attbi.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Check Engine light on 95.. At 10:24 AM 5/24/02, Reid Conti wrote: >So here's my question. Is it the O2 sensor? Is it easy to replace? Is >there an easy way for me to check codes? Is the light going to come back >on? If not, do I have to worry about it? I'm kind of thinking maybe it >just threw the light because I was holding it at 3k instead of taking it up >there and shifting as I usually do.. then once I let it rev on the highway >it was all cleared up. any thoughts? On a '95, you can use the following method to read the faults codes: http://www.bonnevillemotorwerks.com/fault.html Hope that helps, Jim Bassett
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#7. Re: [E36M3] brake pads for school - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 12:15:35 -0700 From: Jim Bassett <jimbassett@attbi.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] brake pads for school At 09:24 AM 5/24/02, twisty M3 wrote: >On that note... Is it necessary to change both front and rear rotors if >you're using dedicated track rotors? Either way, how much time does that >add to the brake pad swapping? On the M3 I would have a set of dedicated front's only for the track. Most of the braking & pedal feel came from the fronts, and there didn't seem to be a problem with not swapping the rear rotors. YMMV. Jim Bassett
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#8. Re: [E36M3] Check Engine light on 95.. - from Matt Henson
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Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 12:38:21 -0700 (PDT) From: Matt Henson <hensonator@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Check Engine light on 95.. Reid, Yea, you need to get the codes. http://www.bonnevillemotorwerks.com/fault.html It doesn't have to be the O2 sensor. -Matt --- Reid Conti <reid@conti.net> wrote: > > This morning, I was driving away from my house, and > rather than doing 32mph > or so in third gear, I was restricted to about > 28-30mph, so I kept it in > second. Figured better to hold it close to 3k when > cold than to drop it > much below 2k. I think the tach ended up hitting 3k > and sitting there for 5 > seconds at one point. A minute later, the check > engine light turned on. > When convenient, I shut the car off, and restarted. > Light stayed on > immediately, so I figured it was a stored code. I > was almost out of gas, so > I filled 'er up, and drove on my way to work. The > light stayed on after > getting gas and putting around city streets for a > minute, but went out > sometime after I hit the highway. __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? LAUNCH - Your Yahoo! Music Experience http://launch.yahoo.com
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#9. Re: [E36M3] brake pads for school - from Ron Buchalski
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Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 20:00:20 +0000 From: "Ron Buchalski" <rbuchals@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] brake pads for school Jonathan, I have been using a dedicated set of FRONT rotors for the track (Euro floating rotors) for several years, but I kept the rear rotors on the car for both street and track. I use stock (Jurid) pads for the street, and PF90s for the track. What I noticed is that, after a track weekend, the rear rotors have a "buildup" from the track pads (carbon impregnated?), and it takes several weeks of driving on the street pads to remove it. During that time that it takes to clear off this buildup, the street braking performance seems to be slightly degraded. So, this year, I'm going to get another set of rear rotors and dedicate them for track use. As far as how much additional time it takes to swap rotors, I can only speak for the fronts. It takes an additional ten minutes per wheel for me to swap the rotors (I don't have any air tools). My procedure is: - Loosen lug bolts - Jack car - Remove lug bolts - Remove wheel - Remove wear sensor and install jumper (when applicable) - Remove caliper from bracket; hang with a bungee cord * Remove caliper bracket (two 16mm bolts) * Remove rotor retaining screw (5mm?) * Remove rotor * Install track rotor * Install rotor retaining screw - Install caliper bracket - Swap brake pads - Install caliper - Mount wheel - Install lug bolts - Lower car - Torque lug bolts As you can see, the items with the '*' are the additional steps necessary to swap the rotors. You're already doing all of the other steps when you swap pads. Swapping rear rotors should be no more complicated, just make sure that you fully disengage the parking brake before you attempt to remove the rotors. The parking brake consists of a small 'drum' brake inside the center of the rear rotors. You may need to slightly back off the parking brake shoes if they prevent the rotor from being removed. This is done using a screwdriver to reach inside a lug bolt hole and turn the adjusting wheel to back off the shoes. Hope this helps, -rb >Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 09:22:55 -0700 >From: "twisty M3" <twistym3@hotmail.com> >Subject: Re: [E36M3] brake pads for school > >Ain't that the truth! I have really liked the R4 pads so far, but I'm >giving serious consideration to trying the PF90 or 97 next. The R4 has >been >great so far, but doesn't seem to last very long, and I constantly have pad >material deposit issues. Though I think that means I need to go ahead and >get myself dedicated rotors as well. Damn that slippery slope... Damn it >to >hell! ;) > >On that note... Is it necessary to change both front and rear rotors if >you're using dedicated track rotors? Either way, how much time does that >add to the brake pad swapping? > >Jonathan L. _________________________________________________________________ MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
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#10. BMW/Microsoft - from Joe Dyer
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Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 13:18:15 -0700 From: "Joe Dyer" <joedyer@attbi.com> Subject: BMW/Microsoft http://www.satirewire.com/briefs/bmw.shtml OK, a little off topic - but if you like "satire", enjoy! Joe Dyer A married man should forget his mistakes;=20 there's no use for two people remembering=20 the same thing.=20
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#11. Oil Srvc Light - from Paul Elliott
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Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 17:41:18 -0400 From: "Paul Elliott" <elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net> Subject: Oil Srvc Light >>but that doesn't even represent the Paul Elliott's with 350 forced induction Hp.<< HARK! Is that my name I hear? Well then, son, thats 420 forced induction hp to you :--) Oh, youre speaking at the wheels? Ok then....As for the oil thing, for twistym3 who said "I'm all for saving money and the environment, if I can find some proof that the changes aren't necessary", there IS proof, if you believe the results of oil analysis, that is... As for me, what Ive decided to do is to change the filter at half way through the lights, and send off a sample for analysis at that time, and then change the amsoil at the regular lights interval, and do another analysis then...Hopefully that will give me 2 valid interval readings within about 10K miles...I'll be very surprised if either comes back showing anything out of normal bounds, and of course I'll be sure and share the results with the list. Paul Elliott --------------------------------------------------------- '99 White M3; < 45K miles; Dinan stage II SC kit with 6" RMS crank pulley: 11 psi; AA Water Injection; Fikse FM-10s; X-Brace; Dinan Koni Suspension; Stygar SS and Clutch Stop; Sound by Polk, Excelon, JLAudio
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#12. Oil Service - from Paul Elliott
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Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 17:45:05 -0400 From: "Paul Elliott" <elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net> Subject: Oil Service Bob, >>Our new Volvo will be putting on about 30k per year (the M only 4-5k per year), I've already changed the oil three times! Manual says every 7,500 miles<< For what its worth, before my M3, I had a '95 Volvo 850 Turbo, which of course I had goosed to about 280 hp, and using Mobil 1 at the time, I found that oil changes per the manual at 7.5K miles were more than sufficient to satisfy the oil analyis gods. Paul Elliott --------------------------------------------------------- '99 White M3; < 45K miles; Dinan stage II SC kit with 6" RMS crank pulley: 11 psi; AA Water Injection; Fikse FM-10s; X-Brace; Dinan Koni Suspension; Stygar SS and Clutch Stop; Sound by Polk, Excelon, JLAudio
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#13. Oil Service - from Paul Elliott
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Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 17:50:47 -0400 From: "Paul Elliott" <elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net> Subject: Oil Service >>I'm certain there are more places that do this, I only know of this one though... If enough people are interested, I could organize a group purchase at considerable savings to everyone<< Another data point is AV Lubricants at the Cleveland Technical Cntr... I bought a bunch back in '98, and I still have one left...Believe it or not, the per use charge was only 12 bucks, but I bet its gone up since then...Im about to do the last one, being half way through the lights, so Id be interested in any GB you might be setting up...And thanks ! Paul Elliott --------------------------------------------------------- '99 White M3; < 45K miles; Dinan stage II SC kit with 6" RMS crank pulley: 11 psi; AA Water Injection; Fikse FM-10s; X-Brace; Dinan Koni Suspension; Stygar SS and Clutch Stop; Sound by Polk, Excelon, JLAudio
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#14. Strut part #s needed - from David Bauer
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Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 19:49:24 -0500 From: David Bauer <dbauer@blkbox.com> Subject: Strut part #s needed I need the part numbers for the two locknuts and two bolts that need to be replaced when installing the struts. It's for a '95 4/94 build. Does someone have them handy? TIA, Dave
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#15. Too Quiet! - from Joe Dyer
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Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 21:32:05 -0700 From: "Joe Dyer" <joedyer@attbi.com> Subject: Too Quiet! Well, where are all you guys? It's been awfully quiet today. Joe Dyer A married man should forget his mistakes;=20 there's no use for two people remembering=20 the same thing.=20
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#16. Rondell Cross Spoke wheels - from ChuckBrazeau@aol.com
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Date: Sat, 25 May 2002 01:57:21 -0400 From: ChuckBrazeau@aol.com Subject: Rondell Cross Spoke wheels I decided to re-evaluate my "street" wheel choices for my M3 today (i'll be using my OEM wheels for Stock class racing). I originally wanted to go with the BBS RK, but now i'm not so sure, I've decided that i like the Rondell Cross Spoke wheels (R58) that Bekkers sells. Does anyone have any experience (good or bad) with these wheels? Thanks! Chuck Brazeau <--- wheel junkie '95 M3 - Daytonaviolett http://www.brazeauracing.com/