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#1. Replacing Coolant level sensor - from Juan Bruce
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Date: Mon, 03 Jun 2002 13:34:00 -0700 From: "Juan Bruce" <jbrucebmw@hotmail.com> Subject: Replacing Coolant level sensor For the past couple of weeks I've been getting the low coolant warning upon starting up my M3 despite being topped up on coolant. Based on several people's advice I ordered a new coolant level sensor. Now that I have the part and I'm looking at the Bentley manual and can't figure out how to replace it. I only see mention of the coolant temperature sensor. Is this the same sensor? What is the procedure for replacing the coolant level sensor? Juan Bruce BMW CCA GGC '85 M635CSi '95 M3 _________________________________________________________________ Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com
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#2. Re: [E36M3] Rear sway bar link question - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Mon, 03 Jun 2002 13:37:37 -0700 From: Jim Bassett <jimbassett@attbi.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Rear sway bar link question At 01:23 PM 6/3/02, Bob Lenarcik wrote: >I need to replace the rear sway bar links and I'd prefer to do it myself >if I can. I have the GC adjustable links, but I don't know how to access >the upper bolt that holds the link to the clevis. Does anyone have any >tips or links to write-ups? Many thanks in advance. (Memory fuzzy from doing this several years ago...) You should be able to reach the top bolt just by removing the rear wheel, and accessing it from the outside of the car rather than underneath. Jim Bassett
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#3. front bumper damage - from russell
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Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2002 14:21:54 -0700 (PDT) From: russell <driver8m3@yahoo.com> Subject: front bumper damage i smashed a raccoon last week. messed up the bumper cover, splitter, fog lights, and the underbelly pieces. insurance is quoting $404 for a replacement bumper cover (everything else is pretty much small change...). anyone know of anywhere to get one cheaper, or is that a pretty good price? thanks, russell dakar 99 ===== "the state is the great fiction by which everyone seeks to live at the expense of everyone else" --frederic bastiat __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com
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#4. OBDI 3.2s (was Re: [E36M3] Intake manifolds) - from Juan Bruce
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Date: Mon, 03 Jun 2002 15:55:42 -0700 From: "Juan Bruce" <jbrucebmw@hotmail.com> Subject: OBDI 3.2s (was Re: [E36M3] Intake manifolds) With all this talk of OBDI 3.2 motors, I'm curious what kind of horsepower they yield without aftermarket cams or intakes. I have always thought that when my 3.0 gets tired I would find a 3.2 for a little more power. Since crappy CA gas seems to make running the chip/ cam/intake packages a little risky I wonder if this would be a good alternative to pick up a little more power. Juan Bruce '85 M635CSi '95 M3 both wishing they received better gas >-------------------- 4 -------------------- >Date: Mon, 03 Jun 2002 11:48:26 -0600 >From: Josh <eurosprt@xmission.com> >Subject: Re: [E36M3] Intake manifolds > >At 08:53 AM 6/3/2002 -0500, you wrote: > >-------------------- 1 -------------------- > >Date: Sat, 1 Jun 2002 01:26:09 -0700 > >From: "Alan Taur" <alantaur@yahoo.com> > >Subject: Re: [E36M3] Intake manifolds > > > >The Schrick manifold is cast aluminum. > >And this is the problem with the Schrick part. The heat transfer through >aluminum is about 100 times greater than that of plastic. The other >problem with a cast manifold is the difficulty of dimensional control and >surface finish. These are the three primary reasons that BMW switched to >an injection molded plastic manifold design. In plastic BMW was able to >control the dimensions from runner to runner to within 2%. > > > >The OBD I manifold does physically bolt up to the head, but the problem >is > >that the intake ports are not matched to the intake runners. In that >sense, > >the OBD I manifold does not "bolt" straight up. > > >This is not correct. The OBDI manifold is perfectly matched to OBDII >head. The port design did not change from 95-96 > > > >Despite the lack of port/manifold intake matching, the greater flow >capacity > >of the OBD I does produce measurable power gains, especially at higher >RPMs. > > > >I suppose the ideal setup would add the step of porting/polishing the >head > >as well. > >Since the ports match, there is no need for porting and polishing other >than for special performance needs. > >The mating of the OBDI manifold to the OBDII car is greatly simplified with >the machined manifold adapter that I created during the development of the >OBDII cam kit. This Eurosport adapter re-creates the OBDII idle >control/crank case ventilator oil separator/temp sensor manifold port for >the OBDI manifold so that one can more cleanly and easily attach the OBDI >manifold to an OBDII car. > > > >I know this has been done before by some folks, but does anyone here > >personally know if the OBD I (3.0 L) head bolts up right up to the 3.2 > >block? I know the bore diameters are different, but are the valve sizes >the > >same? > > > >-Alan > >The heads are the same and can be bolted to either block. > >Josh >www.eurosporthighperformance.com _________________________________________________________________ Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com
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#5. Re: Subject: Fault Code - from Bob Dorchester
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Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2002 19:43:15 -0500 From: "Bob Dorchester" <rjdorche@concentric.net> Subject: Re: Subject: Fault Code Patrick, according to my Peake book, for a 99 M3, Code E3 stands for "Oxy sensor adaption limit, Cyl #1-3". Not sure what caused this , but I was told my knock sensor CE codes indicated bad sensors (at least one had cracked). Your CE light code doesn't sound as simple to interpret. Bob Dorchester 95 M3 Patrick Dargan wrote: > Subject: Fault Code > I recently purchased a Peak tool, but unfortunately, I don't have the > directions with me. I attempted to read a "Check Engine" light, but accidentally re-set it. > I believe the code was "E3". > > Can someone with the book tell me if that is a valid code and what it is? > > Better yet, can anyone also tell me what might have caused it. No symptoms > before or after the code. > > Thanks > > Patrick D. > '99 M3 >
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#6. was: autox animation; now: autox course setup - from Jay G
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Date: Mon, 03 Jun 2002 15:46:03 -1000 From: Jay G <jguzman@hawaii.edu> Subject: was: autox animation; now: autox course setup that was pretty cool...i like the obstacle with the single cone and the "box"...i've never seen one of those at our local auto-x...what other kinds of unique cone setups do you folks encounter...i help set up the course at our local auto-x, and some new kinds of obstacles would be great to try...we have the usual gates, slaloms, triangles, and box sections... Joe Dyer wrote: > You just gotta see this! > > http://www.vmsc.org/fun/May12_with_sound.html
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#7. Master Cylinder? soft pedal? - from Jeremy Lucas
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Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2002 22:15:10 -0400 From: "Jeremy Lucas" <jlucas@columbus.rr.com> Subject: Master Cylinder? soft pedal? Anybody have to replace their master cylinder? What were the symptoms that preceded it's replacement? Jeremy 95 M3 with a brake pedal that I think is still a little soft despite extensive bleeding
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#8. Re: [E36M3] was: autox animation; now: autox course setup - from Mdriver13@aol.com
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Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2002 22:24:08 EDT From: Mdriver13@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] was: autox animation; now: autox course setup In a message dated 6/3/02 9:58:07 PM Eastern Daylight Time, jguzman@hawaii.edu writes: > ...i like the obstacle with the single cone and the > "box". That one's called a "Chicago Box", and it looks neat until you try to drive it. Got to remember, slow in...fast out :-( Bob Gill 97 ///M3 coupe Philly Region SCCA AS Champion 1997 & 2000 BSP Champion 2001
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#9. Re: [E36M3] Suggestion on front control arm bushings - from Jeff A
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Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2002 21:46:01 -0500 From: "Jeff A" <aabel@austin.rr.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Suggestion on front control arm bushings > Ok, after the last track event I need to replace the > front control arm bushings on my 95 m3. The questions > are; > Should go with stock or upgrade to poly bushings, > Should I switch to aluminium control arms as they are > about $30 more per arm. > > What suggestion do you guys have, what are you using > and how well do you like them. > > Tony > Tarheel BMWCCA Tony, I went with stiffer, greasable RTRS bushings from James at bimmerworld. There is a slight difference in ride quality, mainly increased harshness when nailing squared edged bumps (eg, abrupt changes in pavement heights like in a construction zone, or the trailing edge of a pothole). But, the trade off was worth it IMHO. Significantly better steering precision on and off the track. Caveat, this was on my 97 which came with inferior c/a bushings than 95's, since later M3's used 'windowed' rubber bushings vs. the solid 95's. While there's been talk of using Al control arms, some experienced race car fabricators still advocate OE replacements (steel) for E36's due to their high vehicle weight over the compartively light E30. And, according to BMW CCA club racing specs on car setup, more frequent replacement of the Al variety is called for. Since I don't race, I'll put the extra money that I would spend on more frequent c/a replacement toward an extra DE or two and dinner for the wife to, well, grease the skids for those extra DE's. ;) Jeff
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#10. Re: [E36M3] Master Cylinder? soft pedal? - from Jay G
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Date: Mon, 03 Jun 2002 19:09:10 -1000 From: Jay G <jguzman@hawaii.edu> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Master Cylinder? soft pedal? when my master cylinder went bad (this was in a jeep cj-7), the brake pedal would go all the way down to the floor, and the jeep wouldnt stop as good...my braking distances were a lot longer, and panic stops were just that...PANIC...i thought i'd hit the car in front of me each time someone cut me off and i needed to get on the brakes... of course i dont know how relevant the brake system in a jeep cj-7 (drums in the rear, no ABS, heck, it wasnt even power assisted) is to a M3, but i'm just giving you a (probably useless) data point... Jeremy Lucas wrote: > Anybody have to replace their master cylinder? What were the symptoms > that preceded it's replacement?