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#1. Re: Suggestion on front control arm bushings - from Neil Maller
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Date: Tue, 04 Jun 2002 08:40:57 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Suggestion on front control arm bushings on 6/4/02 12:23 AM, "Jeff A" <aabel@austin.rr.com> wrote: > Caveat, this was on my 97 which came with inferior c/a bushings than 95's, > since later M3's used 'windowed' rubber bushings vs. the solid 95's. The difference between 95 M control arm bushings and 96+ is that the former are offset. (Other changes in the 96+ front suspension geometry eliminated the need for offset bushings.) It is the non-M cars that have bushings with voids. Neil 96 M3
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#2. Re: Master Cylinder? soft pedal? - from Neil Maller
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Date: Tue, 04 Jun 2002 08:50:45 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Master Cylinder? soft pedal? on 6/4/02 12:23 AM, "Jeremy Lucas" <jlucas@columbus.rr.com> wrote: > Anybody have to replace their master cylinder? What were the symptoms > that preceded it's replacement? I replaced mine a couple of months ago. Symptoms were persistent soft pedal which would sink all the way to the floor no matter how much bleeding was done. I bought a new one from Steve D'G ($325 and his usual excellent service) and replaced it myself. It's a messy but fairly straightforward job. You do get to experience firsthand what an effective paint stripper brake fluid is. > Jeremy > 95 M3 with a brake pedal that I think is still a little soft despite > extensive bleeding If the pedal is low, sinks to the floor, and your car develops an unhealthy affection for the butt of the car in front, then you should replace the master cylinder. Should you decide to do this I can give you some tips. If the pedal is just a little soft it's probably something else. How are you bleeding the brakes? Neil 96 M3
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#3. Re: Front bumper damage - from Neil Maller
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Date: Tue, 04 Jun 2002 08:54:09 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Front bumper damage on 6/4/02 12:23 AM, russell <driver8m3@yahoo.com> wrote: > insurance is quoting $404 for a replacement bumper cover (everything else > is pretty much small change...). anyone know of anywhere to get one > cheaper, or is that a pretty good price? That's about the normal list price. You may be able to get one for less at one of the usual discount vendors (Nick Alexander, The BMW store, etc.) but this is a large part and awkward to ship. BTW you get the cover in primer, so figure in the cost of painting too. Neil 96 M3
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#4. Suspension Bushings - from Ahmad Lutfeali
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Date: Tue, 04 Jun 2002 14:02:45 +0000 From: "Ahmad Lutfeali" <m3_racer99@hotmail.com> Subject: Suspension Bushings Anyone know of a good source to get poly bushings(front and rear including trailing/toe arm.) Cost? Feedback? Thanks in advance. A.L. _________________________________________________________________ Join the world’s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. http://www.hotmail.com
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#5. Rogue Engineering and Bob Tunnel (Bimmer Huas) - from Ahmad Lutfeali
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Date: Tue, 04 Jun 2002 14:52:08 +0000 From: "Ahmad Lutfeali" <m3_racer99@hotmail.com> Subject: Rogue Engineering and Bob Tunnel (Bimmer Huas) I had been having some suspension issues (loose rear). Changed shocks (were shot), alignment etc etc etc. Much better but with Bilstein/H&R, RD, Camber plates, I coudlnt get the same times I would compared to my STOCK 98. I called up Rogue and spoke with Ben and later with Jim at Bimmer Huas. These guys helped me out quite a lot. I didnt buy anything from and used up an hour of their time (combined). All they did was listen and help me out with issues I had missed out. I have no affliation with them, the least I can do is spread the good word around. (or just my honest opinion). PS: I have seen Rogue's exhaust (helped a friend install one) and it was class A. Thanks to everyone who chimed in and helped me out with my "suspension gremlins". Regards, Ahmad Lutfeali 97 M3 Silver Boston, MA _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp.
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#6. RE: [E36M3] Suspension Bushings - from Bob Lenarcik
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Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2002 09:51:56 -0700 From: "Bob Lenarcik" <lenarcik@pacbell.net> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Suspension Bushings Ahmad, Try looking for Powerflex bushings. They are relatively cheap, harder than stock but not as harsh as full race bearings. I purchased front and rear sets from OPMD (http://www.opmd.com/cat60_1.htm). Their site's a bit confusing, but I called and talked to Phil Dorsey and he got me what I needed. They were in high demand when I ordered mine so be prepared for a possible wait. A full set runs around $200. - Bob -----Original Message----- From: Ahmad Lutfeali [mailto:m3_racer99@hotmail.com] Sent: Tuesday, June 04, 2002 7:14 AM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] Suspension Bushings Date: Tue, 04 Jun 2002 14:02:45 +0000 From: "Ahmad Lutfeali" <m3_racer99@hotmail.com> Subject: Suspension Bushings Anyone know of a good source to get poly bushings(front and rear including trailing/toe arm.) Cost? Feedback? Thanks in advance. A.L.
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#7. RE: [E36M3] Suspension Bushings - from Andrew-Taylor Autosport
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Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2002 13:08:02 -0400 From: "Andrew-Taylor Autosport" <astaylor@taylorautosport.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Suspension Bushings I have all of these in stock. The really cool thing is they have stainless steel guide pins, so they don't end up a rusted mess. Andrew http://www.taylorautosport.com/ > -----Original Message----- > From: Bob Lenarcik [mailto:lenarcik@pacbell.net] > Sent: Tuesday, June 04, 2002 1:04 PM > To: E36M3 > Subject: RE: [E36M3] Suspension Bushings > > > Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2002 09:51:56 -0700 > From: "Bob Lenarcik" <lenarcik@pacbell.net> > Subject: RE: [E36M3] Suspension Bushings > > Ahmad, > > Try looking for Powerflex bushings. They are relatively cheap, harder > than stock but not as harsh as full race bearings. I purchased front and > rear sets from OPMD (http://www.opmd.com/cat60_1.htm). Their site's a > bit confusing, but I called and talked to Phil Dorsey and he got me what > I needed. They were in high demand when I ordered mine so be prepared > for a possible wait. A full set runs around $200. > > - Bob > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Ahmad Lutfeali [mailto:m3_racer99@hotmail.com] > Sent: Tuesday, June 04, 2002 7:14 AM > To: E36M3 > Subject: [E36M3] Suspension Bushings > > > Date: Tue, 04 Jun 2002 14:02:45 +0000 > From: "Ahmad Lutfeali" <m3_racer99@hotmail.com> > Subject: Suspension Bushings > > > Anyone know of a good source to get poly bushings(front and rear > including > trailing/toe arm.) Cost? Feedback? Thanks in advance. > > A.L. > > > > > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. > ************************************************************* > > > >
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#8. Front rubbing - from Wayne Miller
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Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2002 14:10:22 -0400 From: "Wayne Miller" <m3@waynemiller.com> Subject: Front rubbing Ever since I put the Eibach Pro Kit springs on my car, whenever I hit a big bump, I heard a strange noise that I couldn't figure out what it was. I even heard it on 1 turn at Watkins Glen but only with the street tires on. At first, I thought that the tire was rubbing the front part of the fender liner but I couldn't find evidence of that. Well yesterday I discovered what it was - the front tires are rubbing on the metal of the fenders right at the top of the opening and the metal is digging into the tire and eating it away. I will try to take some pictures because it looks strange. It is really just ruining the outer edge of the tread and not structurally damaging the tire so it could be worse. The specs are: Eibach Pro Kit springs, Koni shocks, TC Kline camber plates (with about 2.5 degrees of negative camber), 8.5" BMW forged wheels with 245/40/17 SO3 tires and 16mm wheel spacers to clear the Rogue Engineering big brakes. I am going to roll the fenders later this week (I did the rear fenders a while ago) and hopefully that will clear up the problem. I couldn't be happier with the handling so I still strongly recommend this setup. -Wayne
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#9. Uneven Brake Wear - from Mark Kern
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Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2002 13:48:02 -0700 From: "Mark Kern" <markkern@cox.net> Subject: Uneven Brake Wear I've been having some trouble with my brake pad wear on my M3. At about 26,000 miles, I noticed that the pads on the left driver's side were completely gone (right down to a metal on metal noise). The check light never went on. However, the pads on the right had much more surface left them. Same thing on the rears, but to a lesser extent. So, I swapped pads and rotors, and now, about 1000 miles later, I notice that the rotors on the drivers side are wearing, but that the ones on the passenger side still have much of the original finish on the rotor. I do not have any problems with the car pulling to one side while braking, which seems odd given the situation. Anybody have a clue as to what might be going on? Thanks, Markus
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#10. Re: [E36M3] Uneven Brake Wear - from Matt Henson
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Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2002 14:02:17 -0700 (PDT) From: Matt Henson <hensonator@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Uneven Brake Wear Binding caliper on the left side? This wouldn't make the car pull to a side when braking, and might not be notibable when driving straight. If it is the case then I'd expect that the left side will be hotter than the right after driving (try driving for a while without using the brakes any more than necessary and then compare the temps). -Matt --- Mark Kern <markkern@cox.net> wrote: > Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2002 13:48:02 -0700 > From: "Mark Kern" <markkern@cox.net> > Subject: Uneven Brake Wear > > I've been having some trouble with my brake pad wear > on my M3. At about > 26,000 miles, I noticed that the pads on the left > driver's side were > completely gone (right down to a metal on metal > noise). The check light > never went on. However, the pads on the right had > much more surface left > them. Same thing on the rears, but to a lesser > extent. > > So, I swapped pads and rotors, and now, about 1000 > miles later, I notice > that the rotors on the drivers side are wearing, but > that the ones on > the passenger side still have much of the original > finish on the rotor. > > I do not have any problems with the car pulling to > one side while > braking, which seems odd given the situation. > Anybody have a clue as to > what might be going on? > > Thanks, > > Markus > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com