-------------------- 1 --------------------
#1. Re: [E36M3] RE: catastrophic engine failure - from Jeff A
Top
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2002 18:53:59 -0500 From: "Jeff A" <aabel@austin.rr.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] RE: catastrophic engine failure > > I don't know about the rest of the folks on this list, but I have a hard > time believing posts where the sender makes inflammatory remarks and then > doesn't sign his/her name. Every post on this issue by the original sender > (M-Power) lacks a name. Not very credible if you ask me. > > M-Power: why don't you sign your name with your posts? Are you concerned > that what you're saying may be untrue (I honestly don't know if it's true or > not) and leaves you susceptible to legal action by BMW? > > Nick > Inflammatory remarks aside, indeed the original poster's motor is fried. It's presently at Bobby Archer's shop in Dallas, in pieces awaiting a transplant from a bimmer salvage yard in San Antonio. The nut did fall off. M-Power is new to the list. I'm sure he'll get the hang of it. :) Hanging out a roadfly and the batcave tends to make one excitable. ;) As to the issue at hand, it's alarming that non-track driven cars have been encountering this problem. The root cause remains in debate. However, since I purchased my car used, I cannot ever be assured that mine has not been spun. Sort of unsettling, particularly since I frequent the track. Jeff (crossing fingers, armed with CPO) Abel 97 M3/4
-------------------- 2 --------------------
#2. Re: [E36M3] RE: catastrophic engine failure - from Jeff A
Top
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2002 19:04:10 -0500 From: "Jeff A" <aabel@austin.rr.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] RE: catastrophic engine failure > Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2002 15:35:26 -0700 > From: "Dames, Mark" <Mark.Dames@PDO.Co.Santa-Clara.CA.US> > Subject: RE: [E36M3] RE: catastrophic engine failure > > So how tough is it to do the lock tight, retaining wire fix for the oil > pump? > Can the oil pan be dropped from under the car without moving the engine > and/or other stuff? > How do you go about drilling the screw stud for the retaining wire? Is this > something that can be removed from the engine easility and placed in a drill > jig? Mark, Quote I got today was 5 hours, $360. Apparantly, it's a PITA to pull the oil pan and replace. The actual procedure is easy once you are there. My shop was reluctant to do safety wire the nut, as they are hesitant to upset the balance of a rotating part with drilling. Their solution would be some 'ol fashioned loctite. Jeff
-------------------- 3 --------------------
#3. Re: [E36M3] Re: Suggestion on front control arm bushings - from Jeff A
Top
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2002 19:11:50 -0500 From: "Jeff A" <aabel@austin.rr.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Suggestion on front control arm bushings > A couple of people emailed me to claim that the 96+ M3 control arm bushings > do have voids/windows in them, contrary to what I posted recently. > > Obviously I'm right and they're idiots ;) > > But I went and checked my own car. You know, just to confirm my obvious > state of perfection. Uh-oh - my bushings have these voids in them... > > I'd have sworn on a stack of priceless BMW microfiches they they were solid, > but it just ain't so. > > Contributions for my treatment may be sent to the Neil Maller Senile > Dementia (and Wine Cellar Enhancement) Fund. > > Sorry for the misinformation. > > Neil > 96 M3 Damn! Your colleagues beat me to it. I was going to email you and let you know that *mine* had windows, dunno about yours. ;) As to the improvement in steering precision with the solid poly bushings, it's unmistakable. If you are a dyed in the wool, performance oriented bimmerhead after the last tenth of driving experience, they are a must have. Well, that's my story and I'm stickin' to it. Jeff 97 M3/4 with solid front c/a bushings.
-------------------- 4 --------------------
#4. Re: [E36M3] RE: catastrophic engine failure - from David
Top
Date: Wed, 05 Jun 2002 19:52:41 -0500 From: David <tristar500@mac.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] RE: catastrophic engine failure > Bobby Archer in Dallas A minor point, Bobby Archer is located in Fort Worth. That's the friendlier side of the metroplex. Dave
-------------------- 5 --------------------
#5. Re: Pesky Oil Pump - from shane.a.kleinpeter@accenture.com
Top
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2002 21:32:03 -0400 From: shane.a.kleinpeter@accenture.com Subject: Re: Pesky Oil Pump >> exactly proportional to sensor temperature. From what I read, there is >> some conditioning which centers the needle on the gauge within the normal >> operating range of the car. I could be wrong, as I'm simply repeating what >> I read here. >Chris, >You are referring to the E36 temp gauges 'sweet spot' where the gauge stays >dead center within a 10-20F temperature range. >The rumor has it this was BMW's way of dealing with pesky owners who would >rush to the dealer to complain about over heating whenever the temp gauge >would move past 12 o'clock position in E30/E28 cars. This is funny to read after an experience I had about ten years back. My mom used to have an old Volvo 240 wagon, with about 200k+ miles on it. I was home from college and getting ready to start my first job, and was still living at home before I moved away to <sigh> join the working world. The Volvo seemed to be having a problem, as the temp gauge was nuts. It would go up to the threshold of the red zone, then dip down below half way, then back up to almost red, ad infinitum. So I figured it must be the temperature sender. I replaced it and it did the same thing. So I flushed the cooling system and put in a new water pump and thermostat when my dad and I changed the timing belt. Still no change. We figured it MUST be the old radiator, and bought one mail order from a recycling yard. Still no change. Exasperated, I went to the Volvo dealer and told them that I had given up and could not figure for the life of me was wrong with the cooling system on this 240. The parts guy that I spoke with looked at me with a HUGE grin and told me that there was a printed circuit board on the instrument cluster that acted as a smoothing constant, to keep the gauge from fluctuating and causing undue alarm in owners. I wish I had called and asked about it before we replaced $500 worth of cooling system components that were perfectly OK. This was a 1986 240, so I suppose that BMW has had this 'feature' for a similar amount of time. Regards, Shane K. '96 M3 '94 325i #335 KP '00 LR Discovery No Volvo's This message is for the designated recipient only and may contain privileged, proprietary, or otherwise private information. If you have received it in error, please notify the sender immediately and delete the original. Any other use of the email by you is prohibited.
-------------------- 6 --------------------
#6. Re: [E36M3] Important - If you care about track tires - from Jeff A
Top
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2002 20:49:35 -0500 From: "Jeff A" <aabel@austin.rr.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Important - If you care about track tires Just so y'all get another viewpoint, check out an unofficial Kumho correspondence, pulled from bimmerforums, previously pulled form an IT forum (all w/o permission): Member posted June 01, 2002 04:20 PM ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- ---- Written to Kuhmo motorsports dept today.. Dear Kuhmo tire, I am a current SCCA member and Improved Touring class racer. It has come to our attention, through Hoosier Tire, that the NHTSA is considering some drastic changes to the DOT tire construction standards. Hoosier has claimed that their bias ply tires would be unable to meet the new standards, and the radial race tires would need major re-design. They therefore have asked the racing community for their support in an effort to add an exception clause for tires that have an annual volume of less than 15000. There is a healthy discussion of this matter, and whether we as an IT community, should support Hoosier, or not. We would very much like to have the opinion of Kuhmo on this subject. Specifically, Will the proposed rules have an impact on Kuhmo's involvement in SCCA? Will you have to re-design your tire line? Will these new standards impact the price of Kuhmo's competition DOT tires? Will you exit the market if FMVSS 119 comes into play? IP: Logged Chris Wire Member posted June 02, 2002 11:49 PM ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- ---- Received this via email: "The new FMVSS standards will require DOT tires to not only comply with current standards, but to also pass a low inflation endurance test at the end of the current DOT test sequence. The original DOT test sequence was created back in the bias tire days of the 60's. (Yes, that's how old the test is and it needs to be updated.) The current test sequence is a bit of a joke. As long as the tire holds air, it will pass the test. It is my personal belief (not Kumho's) that all of our competition tires will pass this new test sequence. Kumho's DOT competition tires are engineered similarly to our regular passenger tire lines. They use a fabric for the body plies and steel for the belts. Hoosier and Goodyear use fabric for the body plies but fiberglass for the belt material. Fiberglass does not lend itself to long term durability. The failure mode is usually belt edge separation. Hoosier knows their tires won't pass the new DOT test sequence. They also do not want to re-engineer their tires because it will cost money to do this. I believe that the current rules of Touring, Showroom Stock, American Sedan, and Solo should continue to require DOT legal tires now and in the future. I am afraid that relaxing the DOT rule will allow tire companies to design even more exotic race tire constructions in the future. It also takes away from the spirit of the rules. It'll end up pushing the little guys, like Kumho, out of amateur racing because we won't be able to keep up with the competition's technology. This will lead to no one buying our tires because no one will be able to win on them and will eventually lead to Kumho pulling out of SCCA racing. It's sad that Hoosier is putting the fear of increased cost to the end consumer as a means to getting the racing community to change the current GCR. Why is it that Kumho can offer DOT legal tires that are competitive, have a lower price and that can possibly pass the newly proposed test sequence? I'm sure the competition is also wondering. Anyway, I'm just adding to the debate. The newly proposed test will be open for comment until early June. Then the feds will come up with a decision sometime in September and will make it effective in the next two or three years. There's plenty of time to worry (and plenty of time for the other tire companies to get their act together and comply). --- Rudy Consolacion Motorsports Kumho Technical Center 711 S. Cleveland-Massillon Rd. Akron, OH 44333" ----- Original Message ----- From: "Kerry Tully" <bayoubimmer@yahoo.com> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Wednesday, June 05, 2002 1:23 PM Subject: [E36M3] Important - If you care about track tires > Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2002 11:22:10 -0700 (PDT) > From: Kerry Tully <bayoubimmer@yahoo.com> > Subject: Important - If you care about track tires > > Today is the deadline for commenting on new government > regs proposed for DOT-rated tires, so please read > this and do what it says... help Hoosier and the other > companies making track tires. > > http://www.hoosiertire.com/fmvsshlp.HTM > > > Kerry > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup > http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. > ************************************************************* > >
-------------------- 7 --------------------
#7. RE: catastrophic engine failure - from Bob Stommel
Top
Date: Wed, 05 Jun 2002 21:47:16 -0500 From: Bob Stommel <rstommel@iquest.net> Subject: RE: catastrophic engine failure If you're talking about the nut that holds the chain sprocket to the oil pump, you don't need to drill and wire tie it. Loctite 271 (red) will keep it in place. HTH, Bob Stommel SPG Motorsports Indianapolis >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2002 15:35:26 -0700 From: "Dames, Mark" <Mark.Dames@PDO.Co.Santa-Clara.CA.US> Subject: RE: [E36M3] RE: catastrophic engine failure So how tough is it to do the lock tight, retaining wire fix for the oil pump? Can the oil pan be dropped from under the car without moving the engine and/or other stuff? How do you go about drilling the screw stud for the retaining wire? Is this something that can be removed from the engine easility and placed in a drill jig?
-------------------- 8 --------------------
#8. OEM Crimp Clamps - from Jay G
Top
Date: Wed, 05 Jun 2002 21:06:28 -1000 From: Jay G <jguzman@hawaii.edu> Subject: OEM Crimp Clamps okay gruppe...so where exactly are all of these crimp clamps that need to be replaced? i know of the one by the radiator oiverflow tank, and under the rear pasenger side seat for the fuel line...anywhere else??? alex.fadeev@verizon.com wrote: > The crimp-type clamp > holding the small feed line to the overfill container broke off (replace > all crimp-type OEM clamps on your coolant/fuel lines NOW).
-------------------- 9 --------------------
#9. OT: Anyone going to the Montreal GP this weekend - from Chester Wong
Top
Date: Thu, 6 Jun 2002 06:45:14 -0700 (PDT) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: OT: Anyone going to the Montreal GP this weekend E-mail me...maybe we can get together. Chester ===== __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Tax Center - online filing with TurboTax http://taxes.yahoo.com/
-------------------- 10 --------------------
#10. How should I repair broken stud holding on fuel filter - from Geof McLaughlin
Top
Date: Thu, 06 Jun 2002 10:07:04 -0400 From: Geof McLaughlin <gfmiiilist@attbi.com> Subject: How should I repair broken stud holding on fuel filter retainer? Last night I change my fuel filter on my 95 M3 and inadvertently broke of the stud attached to the chassis that is used to hold down the fuel filter metal retainer/bracket. The nut loosened initially with ease but apparently became stuck on debris on the end of the stud. I did not notice it becoming more difficult to remove, but the nut jammed and the continued removal broke the stud. While I am not concerned in the near term as their is another plastic over that goes over the fuel filter, I would like to eventually fix it. I'm wondering however how I should go about it. There is not enough of the stud left to get a nut on it. Should I grind off the rest of the stud and have another one welded onto the body or should try using a metal screw that would screw into the chassis instead? Any other suggestions? Geof