E36M3 #2344

Thursday, June 06, 2002 11:43:50

This digest contains the following messages:

#1. E36 problem - from Andy Scott
#2. RE: OEM Crimp Clamps - from Bob Stommel
#3. Re: [E36M3] RE: OEM Crimp Clamps - from Peter Guagenti
#4. Forced Induction - Oil? - from HYPERM3@aol.com
#5. Re: [E36M3] RE: OEM Crimp Clamps - from Bob Stommel
#6. Re: [E36M3] OEM Crimp Clamps - from alex.fadeev@verizon.com
#7. Good shop in/near Pittsburg, CA...??? - from Steve Grigory
#8. Re: [E36M3] Forced Induction - Oil? - from Matt Henson
#9. Re: [E36M3] Forced Induction - Oil? - from Sue Kraft
#10. Re: 95 M3 - stupid water pumps - the conclusion - from Chris Papademetrious

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#1. E36 problem - from Andy Scott
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Date: Thu, 06 Jun 2002 09:47:53 -0500 From: Andy Scott <ascott@augustmail.com> Subject: E36 problem Hello, I recently got an E36 328is 1996 with 95,000 miles, hopefully you (OBD II) E36 M3 guys can help me with the problem I am having. When driven hard, the check engine light would come on, seemingly a thermally related problem. The engine would idle rough, like it was stumbling, when I hit the gas, it would stumble all the way to 3k before smoothing out. A code reader showed cylinders 4 and 6 misfiring. But driving normally, the light would never come on and the car would run perfectly. So I took it to the dealer since it is under warranty still. They said the spark plugs were bad. So I took the car back from them and bought some plugs for it from the parts counter. The plugs I got out of the car really looked like they had been in there for 95,000 miles, the electrode and grounds are very worn, and the grounds are almost white in color. Also they are F8 DCR. The ones that the dealer gave me are F7 DCR, and actually the F7 is what the owners manual calls for. So got them in the car and started it up, it idles terribly, very rough, feels like its misfiring again, and the check engine light immediately came on. I took off the throttle body, it is spotless clean. I put in the old bad plugs and now it runs fine again, but the check engine light remains on. Any ideas? Help is greatly appreciated! Thanks, Andy

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#2. RE: OEM Crimp Clamps - from Bob Stommel
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Date: Thu, 06 Jun 2002 10:05:01 -0500 From: Bob Stommel <rstommel@iquest.net> Subject: RE: OEM Crimp Clamps Power steering hoses. Bob Stommel >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Date: Wed, 05 Jun 2002 21:06:28 -1000 From: Jay G <jguzman@hawaii.edu> Subject: OEM Crimp Clamps okay gruppe...so where exactly are all of these crimp clamps that need to be replaced? i know of the one by the radiator oiverflow tank, and under the rear pasenger side seat for the fuel line...anywhere else???

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#3. Re: [E36M3] RE: OEM Crimp Clamps - from Peter Guagenti
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Date: Thu, 06 Jun 2002 08:10:48 -0700 From: Peter Guagenti <peter@guagenti.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] RE: OEM Crimp Clamps on 6/6/02 7:53 AM, Bob Stommel at rstommel@iquest.net wrote: > Power steering hoses. Except you are much better off if you replace the crimp clamps with real hose clamps on the power steering system. I have seen a half-dozen cars blow these fittings at the track. -p

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#4. Forced Induction - Oil? - from HYPERM3@aol.com
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Date: Thu, 6 Jun 2002 11:15:34 EDT From: HYPERM3@aol.com Subject: Forced Induction - Oil? Hy all, To all those with forced induction (turbo/supercharger) I was wondering what brand and type of oil you are using. Thinking, Alex "HyperM3" Demsky 97 S/C M3

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#5. Re: [E36M3] RE: OEM Crimp Clamps - from Bob Stommel
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Date: Thu, 06 Jun 2002 10:29:04 -0500 From: Bob Stommel <rstommel@iquest.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] RE: OEM Crimp Clamps Yeah, I think that was the original point. All of these crimp clamps eventually loosen and should be replaced with worm-gear clamps. Crimp clamps are used by the factory because they are easier to install on the production line. Bob Stommel >on 6/6/02 7:53 AM, Bob Stommel at rstommel@iquest.net wrote: > > > Power steering hoses. > >Except you are much better off if you replace the crimp clamps with real >hose clamps on the power steering system. I have seen a half-dozen cars blow >these fittings at the track. > >-p

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#6. Re: [E36M3] OEM Crimp Clamps - from alex.fadeev@verizon.com
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Date: Thu, 6 Jun 2002 10:21:18 -0500 From: alex.fadeev@verizon.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] OEM Crimp Clamps Jay G <jguzman@hawaii.edu> wrote: > > okay gruppe...so where exactly are all of these crimp clamps that > need to be replaced? i know of the one by the radiator oiverflow > tank, and under the rear pasenger side seat for the fuel line... > anywhere else??? Jay, Like others said there are two of them holding the power steering hoses to the fluid reservoir. There are lots of them on the fuel lines. You've found the ones around the fuel filter, but they are also used at the fuel pump. These are the ones that I've found and replaced so far. alex

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#7. Good shop in/near Pittsburg, CA...??? - from Steve Grigory
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Date: Thu, 06 Jun 2002 08:38:47 -0700 From: Steve Grigory <sgrigory@pacbell.net> Subject: Good shop in/near Pittsburg, CA...??? A buddy of mine is looking at an M3 that is located in Pittsburg, CA. Does anyone here know of a good shop to do an inspection on it? Thanks, steve

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#8. Re: [E36M3] Forced Induction - Oil? - from Matt Henson
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Date: Thu, 6 Jun 2002 08:45:24 -0700 (PDT) From: Matt Henson <hensonator@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Forced Induction - Oil? I don't think that it would matter much for a SC car. At least not anywhere not as much as for a turbo car. My turbo is water cooled, which makes it a lot less suseptible to cooking the oil in the bearings. But, still, I use Mobil 1. I'm sure that the other reputable oils would work also. I could even use dino oil if I let the car cool off for a minute after driving it hard, but all it takes is once and the turbo is cooked so synthetic it is. -Matt --- HYPERM3@aol.com wrote: > > > Hy all, > To all those with forced induction > (turbo/supercharger) I was > wondering what brand and type of oil you are using. > > Thinking, > Alex "HyperM3" Demsky > 97 S/C M3 > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com

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#9. Re: [E36M3] Forced Induction - Oil? - from Sue Kraft
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Date: Thu, 06 Jun 2002 11:13:31 -0500 From: Sue Kraft <suekraft@new.rr.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Forced Induction - Oil? I called Dinan last week and they recommended I use only Redline 20-50 in the beast. Still waiting for the turbo M5 to show up. The shipping company is scheduled to pick it up in a few days. -Suzy HYPERM3@aol.com wrote: > > Hy all, > To all those with forced induction (turbo/supercharger) I was > wondering what brand and type of oil you are using. > > Thinking, > Alex "HyperM3" Demsky > 97 S/C M3

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#10. Re: 95 M3 - stupid water pumps - the conclusion - from Chris Papademetrious
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Date: Thu, 06 Jun 2002 12:34:21 -0400 From: Chris Papademetrious <chrispy@ieee.org> Subject: Re: 95 M3 - stupid water pumps - the conclusion Well, I was wrong and right... I was right about the fact that it was the water pump. I was wrong about the fact that it was ever replaced! Going back through my paperwork, I see that there was a repair performed at my previous shop in 1999 where a plastic VANOS piston was replaced with a metal part to improve a throttle surge. My current mechanic says he can't think of any VANOS parts that were ever plastic, which is interesting. With all the list discussion of plastic/metal water pumps, I misremembered this plastic/metal VANOS piston as a water pump, probably because we also changed the thermostat and housing on the same invoice back then. Looks like I had a senile moment. (Jeff A and I will be playing shuffleboard this afternoon, if anyone would like to watch.) So, the stock plastic water pump lasted 121k miles before it grenaded. Not too bad, I suppose. He was surprised it lasted this long, as the white ones were a known weak design. You can see pictures of the grenaded pump (white plastic impeller) and the new-style pump (black plastic impeller) on the pics dated 6/5/02 at: http://www.planetb.net/phpix/?mode=album&album=chrispy/cars When I asked about damage, my mechanic said that it takes a lot more to hurt these motors than people think, and told me some stories of customers driving their overheated cars on highways to the next exit, etc. I had virtually no coolant loss (coolant system and overflow were both at normal levels) and the car appears to run perfectly now. It looks like my luck may have held out after all. Thanks for the input, everyone. Enjoy the pictures! - Chris

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