E36M3 #2350

Saturday, June 08, 2002 02:04:47

This digest contains the following messages:

#1. Re: [E36M3] HELP! Brake and Clutch bleed - from Andrew E. Kalman
#2. RE: [E36M3] HELP! Brake and Clutch bleed - from Mel Silva
#3. WTB - from Joe Tan
#4. RE: [E36M3] HELP! Brake and Clutch bleed - from Robert S. Hatrak II
#5. WTB: 225/45-17 S02 tires-New or used - from Joe Tan
#6. RE: [E36M3] HELP! Brake and Clutch bleed - from Doug Wirth
#7. R134 A/C re-charge - from bmwm3nut@att.net
#8. Made my own remote garage opener - from HYPERM3@aol.com
#9. All you wanted to know about SMG and more! - from Paul Elliott
#10. removing spring pads - from Jeff Stowe

-------------------- 1 --------------------

#1. Re: [E36M3] HELP! Brake and Clutch bleed - from Andrew E. Kalman
Top
Date: Fri, 07 Jun 2002 13:45:03 -0700 From: "Andrew E. Kalman" <aek@pumpkininc.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] HELP! Brake and Clutch bleed Re: >Help, I just bled my brakes with a power Bleeder. sucks from the valve. did >the brakes and the clutch. I go to start the car and the clutch falls to the >floor. > >Any ideas? BMW clutches are self-bleeding, and what has happened to you occurs quite often. With the driver's door open, kneel on the ground, reach in with your right hand and manually "pump" the clutch pedal back and forth over its full range of travel. After 20-50 pumps you'll start to feel resistance, and then it will stiffen up quickly. No biggie, just be patient. I've found the "suction type" bleeders to be near-useless for hydraulic system bleeding. Use a pressure bleeder only at the reservoir cap next time. Regards, -- ______________________________________ Andrew E. Kalman, Ph.D. aek@pumpkininc.com

Reply to: Andrew E. Kalman

Top

-------------------- 2 --------------------

#2. RE: [E36M3] HELP! Brake and Clutch bleed - from Mel Silva
Top
Date: Fri, 7 Jun 2002 15:52:01 -0500 From: "Mel Silva" <melsilva@mindspring.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] HELP! Brake and Clutch bleed Doug, I have not heard of this happening with a clutch before, but one reason that some people do not like the power bleeders that suck (sorry couldn't resist), is because they put pressure on the seals in the wrong direction. Whereas pressure from the back of a seal may actually seat it into seal-groove, suction from the other end may actually unseat the seal. Check your seal in the clutch slave. Mel -----Original Message----- From: Doug Wirth [mailto:DWirth@serena.com] Sent: Friday, June 07, 2002 3:14 PM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] HELP! Brake and Clutch bleed Date: Fri, 7 Jun 2002 12:32:55 -0700 From: Doug Wirth <DWirth@serena.com> Subject: HELP! Brake and Clutch bleed Help, I just bled my brakes with a power Bleeder. sucks from the valve. did the brakes and the clutch. I go to start the car and the clutch falls to the floor. Any ideas? 99m3 Doug Wirth *********************************************************************** This email and any files transmitted with it are confidential and intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed. Any unauthorized review, use, disclosure or distribution is prohibited. If you are not the intended recipient, please contact the sender by reply e-mail and destroy all copies of the original message. *********************************************************************** ************************************************************* List Commands UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). To issue a command/request to the server: Send a message with the command you wish executed as the subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. *************************************************************

Reply to: Mel Silva

Top

-------------------- 3 --------------------

#3. WTB - from Joe Tan
Top
Date: Fri, 7 Jun 2002 14:16:59 -0700 (PDT) From: Joe Tan <mailjtan@yahoo.com> Subject: WTB __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com

Reply to: Joe Tan

Top

-------------------- 4 --------------------

#4. RE: [E36M3] HELP! Brake and Clutch bleed - from Robert S. Hatrak II
Top
Date: Fri, 7 Jun 2002 14:16:49 -0700 From: "Robert S. Hatrak II" <hatrak@ix.netcom.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] HELP! Brake and Clutch bleed Self bleeding? Cool! How's that work? Doug, I guess you should disregard my suggestion. LOL! Rob -----Original Message----- BMW clutches are self-bleeding, and what has happened to you occurs quite often.

Reply to: Robert S. Hatrak II

Top

-------------------- 5 --------------------

#5. WTB: 225/45-17 S02 tires-New or used - from Joe Tan
Top
Date: Fri, 7 Jun 2002 14:25:20 -0700 (PDT) From: Joe Tan <mailjtan@yahoo.com> Subject: WTB: 225/45-17 S02 tires-New or used My front S02 tires are shot(Brdgestone S02PP 225/45/17) for my car. These are no longer available since they are discontinued, but my rear are still prectically new and I didn't want have mismatched front tires. So I was hoping that someone here have a pair of these sitting in their garage that want to get rid of. New or used is ok. Local Bay area seller is preffered. Thanks, Joe. PS. Sorry about the previous incomplete post. I hit the enter key by mistake:( __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com

Reply to: Joe Tan

Top

-------------------- 6 --------------------

#6. RE: [E36M3] HELP! Brake and Clutch bleed - from Doug Wirth
Top
Date: Fri, 7 Jun 2002 14:29:31 -0700 From: Doug Wirth <DWirth@serena.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] HELP! Brake and Clutch bleed Well after a few suggestions, I was able to get my clutch to work again. I must have got some air in there somehow. Anyway I guess im off to get a new reservoir pressure bleeder. Now for the real question: what I was trying to do was to fold. 1) put in new super blue for a driver school that I have coming up. (successful) 2) See if bleeding the system would move the engagement of my clutch up a little. Currently my clutch engages about 1 inch from the floor when I start to let the clutch out. I would like it to be about half way up the travel of the clutch. (not Successful) Any ideas? Doug Wirth *********************************************************************** This email and any files transmitted with it are confidential and intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed. Any unauthorized review, use, disclosure or distribution is prohibited. If you are not the intended recipient, please contact the sender by reply e-mail and destroy all copies of the original message. ***********************************************************************

Reply to: Doug Wirth

Top

-------------------- 7 --------------------

#7. R134 A/C re-charge - from bmwm3nut@att.net
Top
Date: Fri, 07 Jun 2002 22:21:13 +0000 From: bmwm3nut@att.net Subject: R134 A/C re-charge Thanks for getting back with me Alex F. This is for my E36 M3 so it has the R-134a, all my other E30s stil have R-12. On my 91 M3 (I am the original owner), the a.c system has never been touched. It has the orginal R12 in the system. I have never had any seal leaks.... Even in Hotlanta 90+ with 70% hum. The a/c in that car is awesome. It goes to 36 deg. while moving and 41 @ idle!! So MY E30 M3 is actually awesome. Now my e30 325ic , I am the second owner and the previous owner is from Texas, it has had a new Nippo Compressor and some other work on the a/c done. When I brought the car 4 yrs ago, it was cold, not as cold as the M3 BUT cold enough for a converitble. BUT this summer, idle temp has creeped up to 55deg. BUT moving temp is still a cool 45 deg. I check all these temps using a commerical HVAC digital temp. probe with a 1 deg. accurracy and every second update. On the E36, its the only car I have that has R134 so I wanted to see if anyone has done the re-charge themselves using the common OTC kits. thanks -- Tim Ng 95 YELA/BUZZN/M3 92 325ic M-Tech "ULTIMATE TANNING MACHINE" 91///M3 "SUNNY DAY CAR" 88///M3 "TRACK CAR" AWESOME 2.5 ENGINE

Reply to:

Top

-------------------- 8 --------------------

#8. Made my own remote garage opener - from HYPERM3@aol.com
Top
Date: Fri, 7 Jun 2002 19:00:44 EDT From: HYPERM3@aol.com Subject: Made my own remote garage opener Hy all, After much reading and deliberating on the remote garage door opener stuff, I decided to make my own. I did mine differently in the fact that I didn't want to run long wires through the car or drill through anything metal. I put mine right in a blank switch plate near the cig lighter with minimal parts. Im not saying this is the best one out there, Im just saying this is my version. Do what you like with it and if you have any questions, feel free to send them over. <A HREF="http://members.aol.com/hyperm3/Dooropener.html">Remote Garage Door Opener - E36</A> This is my link to the picture page, if that doesn't work just let me know. Alex "HyperM3" Demsky 97 S/C M3

Reply to:

Top

-------------------- 9 --------------------

#9. All you wanted to know about SMG and more! - from Paul Elliott
Top
Date: Fri, 7 Jun 2002 19:55:57 -0400 From: "Paul Elliott" <elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net> Subject: All you wanted to know about SMG and more! What an incredible shifting system: http://www.mileageman.com/SMGII_UpDate2002.pdf Paul Elliott --------------------------------------------------------- '99 White M3; < 45K miles; Dinan stage II SC kit with 6" RMS crank pulley: 11 psi; AA Water Injection; Fikse FM-10s; X-Brace; Dinan Koni Suspension; Stygar SS and Clutch Stop; Sound by Polk, Excelon, JLAudio

Reply to: Paul Elliott

Top

-------------------- 10 --------------------

#10. removing spring pads - from Jeff Stowe
Top
Date: Sun, 09 Jun 2002 00:02:08 -0700 From: Jeff Stowe <jrstowe@pacbell.net> Subject: removing spring pads I am trying to change the rear spring pads in my 98 M3/4. I can not get the wheels to drop enough to unload the springs. I have completely raised the rear end of the vehicle (both wheels off the ground) on stands. I have removed the shock mounting bolt. although the shocks then extended a good 1/2" to 1" lower than the mounting point on the suspension. It apppeared that the half-shafts were resting on the sway bar so I unhooked that as well. Based on write-ups I have read and previous discussions on the list it seems the springs (H&R Sports) should pretty much almost lift right out. Correct? No way! the springs are still loaded. Am I missing something real basic here? As always, thanks for any help you all can provide. Jeff ---seems I am always writing emails like this to the group at midnight.

Reply to: Jeff Stowe

Top