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#1. Transmission R&I - from david kroth
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Date: Sat, 8 Jun 2002 20:20:29 -0700 (PDT) From: david kroth <david_kroth@yahoo.com> Subject: Transmission R&I I'm changing out the clutch on my '93 325 (OK! OK! Its not an M3. But it is a very close sibling. And with all the experience here with clutches and flywheels I hoping someone might be able to help me). I've got all the bolts out of the bellhousing but the transmission won't pull free of the engine. I think its hung up on a dowel pin at the starter. Has anyone else come across this before? How did you break it free? I've tought about removing the starter, but Bentley says I must first remove the ignition wiring, fuel rail and intake manifold. So that idea is pretty far down the list. ===== David Kroth david_kroth@yahoo.com __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com
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#2. FS: Scorpion cat-back exhaust - from Rob
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Date: Sat, 8 Jun 2002 22:01:27 -0600 From: "Rob" <motor@cadvision.com> Subject: FS: Scorpion cat-back exhaust For sale: SCORPION Euro cat-back exhaust for E36's. This is a brand new, 100% stainless, TUV approved, large 60mm diameter tubing system, designed for the 286HP and 321HP Euro M3's. It has dual DTM tips and is very light at around 25lbs! Really deep sound without the bad droning of some of the Asian made systems. It will fit all 6cyl E36 models, but requires welding at the flanges on anything but a Euro-spec car. A very simple $40 muffler shop job. E-mail me for more info. $400 incl UPS to most states. Thanks, Rob
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#3. Re: [E36M3] Transmission R&I - from NickG
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Date: Sun, 9 Jun 2002 02:49:25 -0400 From: "NickG" <nick@tech-nick.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Transmission R&I > I've tought about removing the starter, but Bentley > says I must first remove the ignition wiring, fuel > rail and intake manifold. So that idea is pretty far > down the list. That is most likely your problem. The starter has to be removed in order to remove the tranny. There are two bolts that go through the bellhousing and attach to the starter (either into the threaded casting of the starter, or into nuts on the front side of the starter). Just remove the bolts and push the starter forward to clear the flywheel. No other parts need to be removed. Also, make sure you get out ALL of the bolts attaching the tranny to the engine. As stated, there are 2 that attach the starter, and another bolt higher up (right around the 12:00-12:30 position) that attaches the tranny to the engine. Nick
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#4. Re: Dinan Stage 2 Suspension (questions) - from Jay G
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Date: Sun, 09 Jun 2002 01:09:14 -1000 From: Jay G <jguzman@hawaii.edu> Subject: Re: Dinan Stage 2 Suspension (questions) does anyone know if *this* stage 2 kit will fit on a 97 M3...are there any differences b/t the stage 2 kit for a 95 M3 and one for a 97??? also DrDan, does it come with the front struts complete, or would i still need to gut mine? did your stage 2 kit come with the dinan reinforcements for the swaybars? thanx in advance! jay- wanting a new suspension... DrDan976@aol.com wrote: > Dinan Stage 2 suspension (shocks, struts, springs, sways) > About 10,000 miles off a 95 M3. > $800 + shipping
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#5. Engine running cool - from Guillermo Molina
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Date: Sun, 09 Jun 2002 09:21:32 -0400 From: "Guillermo Molina" <drwillb@msn.com> Subject: Engine running cool About 2 weeks ago my coolant temp gauge started indicating a cool temp. during extended runs. The needle would never go over 1/3 and this would happen intermittently. Normally, the needle runs at the 1/2 way mark, straight up and down. My first thought was thermostat gone bad and stuck open. This didn't seem likely since the water pump, therm., and therm. housing were all changed 2 yr ago, almost to the day. This is a 1995 car that had the plastic impeller and plastic therm. housing, both were upgraded to the metal parts. This morning I changed the therm. (92 deg. unit), it wasn't stuck open but the spring pressure seemed a little light, filled and bled the cooling system, and took it out for a spin. The ambient temp was 60 deg and I drove about 15-20 miles after a 5 min warmup. Result: still cool, no change in gauge reading. One interesting thing I noted: there is a small (1/8) opening that connects the 2 chambers of the therm housing. I can't remember if that's supposed to be there. So, what's going on. My best guesses are: 1) the opening in the therm housing shouldn't be there 2) the coolant temp sending unit is bad 3) the gauge is bad Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Bill Molina 95 M3 very cool car _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp.
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#6. Mobile 1 - "prices are falling" - from Michael Kelley
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Date: Sun, 9 Jun 2002 09:47:48 -0700 From: "Michael Kelley" <mkelley@nc.rr.com> Subject: Mobile 1 - "prices are falling" For you Mobile 1 fans........I wandered into Walmart automotive yesterday for some hose clamps (pwr steering hoses starting to weep at the cannister) and found 5 qt jugs of Mobile 1 for $17.88, not sure if this is regional (North Carolina) or not but thought I would pass it on as these are not available most of the year and the price is right. Mike 98M3C
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#7. Re: [E36M3] Engine running cool - from NickG
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Date: Sun, 9 Jun 2002 11:41:25 -0400 From: "NickG" <nick@tech-nick.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Engine running cool Bill, I had the exact same problem. I too changed the thermostat and it didn't help. It turned out to be the temp gauge sensor connection. I unplugged it and plugged it back in, and all was well. Nick > About 2 weeks ago my coolant temp gauge started indicating a cool temp. > during extended runs. The needle would never go over 1/3 and this would > happen intermittently. Normally, the needle runs at the 1/2 way mark, > straight up and down. > > My first thought was thermostat gone bad and stuck open. This didn't seem > likely since the water pump, therm., and therm. housing were all changed 2 > yr ago, almost to the day. This is a 1995 car that had the plastic impeller > and plastic therm. housing, both were upgraded to the metal parts. > > This morning I changed the therm. (92 deg. unit), it wasn't stuck open but > the spring pressure seemed a little light, filled and bled the cooling > system, and took it out for a spin. The ambient temp was 60 deg and I drove > about 15-20 miles after a 5 min warmup. > > Result: still cool, no change in gauge reading. > > One interesting thing I noted: there is a small (1/8) opening that > connects the 2 chambers of the therm housing. I can't remember if that's > supposed to be there. > > So, what's going on. My best guesses are: > > 1) the opening in the therm housing shouldn't be there > 2) the coolant temp sending unit is bad > 3) the gauge is bad > > Any help would be greatly appreciated. > > Thanks, > Bill Molina > 95 M3 very cool car
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#8. Re: [E36M3] Knock sensor #2 - from NickG
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Date: Sun, 9 Jun 2002 13:43:03 -0400 From: "NickG" <nick@tech-nick.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Knock sensor #2 Yeah, I had the 1226 code also. I tried cleaning the DME contacts, electrical connectors, spark plug torque, etc. The only thing that fixed it was actually replacing the knock sensors (both of them had cracked bodies). BTW, if you do have to change the sensors, buy them online from places like www.bimmerparts.com or www.thepartsbin.com . They are MUCH cheaper than the dealer, and are the exact same parts (OEM Bosch sensors). Nick > Adam, > I was one of those people who had big problems with > #1226. I tried: > - Clean and re-torque sensors > - Swap sides to see if the code changes to #1225 > - Use Oscilliscope to make sure that they are sending > a signal. > > And none of that worked. > So, I replaced the sensors and the code went away. > I'm guessing that there is a software bug or something > that always sets #1226 even if it's the other sensor > that's bad. Anyway, replace them both. > > I think that NickG had the same problem and also fixed > it by replacing the sensors. Nick? > -Matt > --- Adam Fila <fila@stealthaccess.net> wrote: > > > > Checking my fault codes today, I am getting lots of > > 1226 - Knock Sensor #2. > > I saw a brief flash of CE light this morning after > > driving off - shortly > > after starting the car for the first time after a 2 > > day track event. I > > searched through my list archives, and see this is a > > very common problem > > (along with everything else my car went through so > > far, failed water pump, > > broken radiator neck, panel under engine flown off, > > hockey pucks fallen off, > > noisy VANOS... I have it all ! :) > > > > However, reading the many reports over the last 3 > > years I have been on this > > list, I noticed a pattern: > > > > a) everyone has the #2 sensor fault code and nobody > > has the #1 (1225) > > b) in most cases, replacing sensor does not solve > > the problem
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#9. Re: [E36M3] Mobile 1 - "prices are falling" - from B Stoll
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Date: Sun, 9 Jun 2002 14:23:07 -0500 From: "B Stoll" <bobstoll@ameritech.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Mobile 1 - "prices are falling" Good Price, no doubt. Was this the new SuperSyn stuff ? Maybe they are dumping their old stock . Bob 98 M3/4 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Michael Kelley" <mkelley@nc.rr.com> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Sunday, June 09, 2002 8:45 AM Subject: [E36M3] Mobile 1 - "prices are falling" > Date: Sun, 9 Jun 2002 09:47:48 -0700 > From: "Michael Kelley" <mkelley@nc.rr.com> > Subject: Mobile 1 - "prices are falling" > > For you Mobile 1 fans........I wandered into Walmart automotive yesterday > for some hose clamps (pwr steering hoses starting to weep at the cannister) > and found 5 qt jugs of Mobile 1 for $17.88, not sure if this is regional > (North Carolina) or not but thought I would pass it on as these are not > available most of the year and the price is right. > Mike > 98M3C
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#10. Bavarian Auto Plasma Coils? - from HYPERM3@aol.com
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Date: Sun, 9 Jun 2002 16:34:27 EDT From: HYPERM3@aol.com Subject: Bavarian Auto Plasma Coils? Anyone see the new catalog with the replacement Plasma Ignition coils? "Torque is available sooner" So it says. Anyone know how this would work or if its another ploy>? Alex "HyperM3" Demsky 97 S/C M3