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#1. Re: [E36M3] Mobile 1 - "prices are falling" - from Michael Kelley
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Date: Sun, 9 Jun 2002 17:54:34 -0700 From: "Michael Kelley" <mkelley@nc.rr.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Mobile 1 - "prices are falling" All was SuperSyn....had 10W-30, 0W-30, 0W-40, and 15W-50. Mike 98M3C > Date: Sun, 9 Jun 2002 14:23:07 -0500 > From: "B Stoll" <bobstoll@ameritech.net> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Mobile 1 - "prices are falling" > > Good Price, no doubt. > > Was this the new SuperSyn stuff ? > Maybe they are dumping their old stock . > > Bob > 98 M3/4 > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Michael Kelley" <mkelley@nc.rr.com> > To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> > Sent: Sunday, June 09, 2002 8:45 AM > Subject: [E36M3] Mobile 1 - "prices are falling" > > > > Date: Sun, 9 Jun 2002 09:47:48 -0700 > > From: "Michael Kelley" <mkelley@nc.rr.com> > > Subject: Mobile 1 - "prices are falling" > > > > For you Mobile 1 fans........I wandered into Walmart automotive yesterday > > for some hose clamps (pwr steering hoses starting to weep at the > cannister) > > and found 5 qt jugs of Mobile 1 for $17.88, not sure if this is regional > > (North Carolina) or not but thought I would pass it on as these are not > > available most of the year and the price is right. > > Mike > > 98M3C
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#2. Re: Bent Wheel Repair - from Gleb Arshinov
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Date: Sun, 09 Jun 2002 16:18:36 -0700 From: Gleb Arshinov <gleb@barsook.com> Subject: Re: Bent Wheel Repair >>>>> "Joe" == Joe Dyer <joedyer@attbi.com> writes: Joe> Date: Sat, 8 Jun 2002 17:23:09 -0700 From: "Joe Dyer" Joe> <joedyer@attbi.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Bent Wheel Repair Joe> They can be repaired. If you live in the SF Bay Area there Joe> are at least two wheel repair places. One in Campbell at Joe> $200 each, and one in Hayward at $100 each. I've had one wheel done in Campbell. I was not impressed. I retired that wheel to serve as a spare. I think buying a used rim would have been better. Gleb
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#3. Re: [E36M3] Re: Bent Wheel Repair - from Andrew E. Kalman
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Date: Sun, 09 Jun 2002 16:44:52 -0700 From: "Andrew E. Kalman" <aek@pumpkininc.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Bent Wheel Repair Re: >Joe> Date: Sat, 8 Jun 2002 17:23:09 -0700 From: "Joe Dyer" > Joe> <joedyer@attbi.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Bent Wheel Repair > > Joe> They can be repaired. If you live in the SF Bay Area there > Joe> are at least two wheel repair places. One in Campbell at > Joe> $200 each, and one in Hayward at $100 each. I've used Wheel Collision Center in PA on two separate occasions for a total of six (or seven?) wheels. As long as I made it clear to them that I wanted the whole wheel painted (not just the "front/outside") they did a good job. I noticed that they now have wheels in stock, ready for shipment. Dunno about the BMW prices, but their price on Jaguar wheels for an '84 XJ-S (two-tone) is very good. Regards, -- ______________________________________ Andrew E. Kalman, Ph.D. aek@pumpkininc.com
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#4. Where to buy racing apparel? - from Eric Dotson
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Date: Sun, 09 Jun 2002 19:58:40 -0400 From: Eric Dotson <kedots@mac.com> Subject: Where to buy racing apparel? Anyone know where to get cool t-shirts and stuff here in the U.S.? I'm looking for BMW and other F1 gear, WRC stuff, etc, and every web search I do only turns up overseas vendors. Who sells this stuff in the states? TIA Eric
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#5. WTB: Coupe Black Door Panels - from Peter Guagenti
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Date: Sun, 09 Jun 2002 17:37:14 -0700 From: Peter Guagenti <peter@guagenti.com> Subject: WTB: Coupe Black Door Panels Subject line says it all. My door panel mounts are falling apart, and I'd prefer to not have to buy brand new ones. If you've got a pair from the front doors of your coupe, I will buy them. Must be black, must not be peeling, and mounts must still be intact. Will pay good money for right pair. Thanks, -peterg
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#6. re: engine runnig cool - from John Pease
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Date: Sun, 9 Jun 2002 19:12:24 -0700 (PDT) From: John Pease <john_pease123@yahoo.com> Subject: re: engine runnig cool Guillermo Molina wrote: >About 2 weeks ago my coolant temp gauge started indicating a cool temp. >during extended runs. The needle would never go over 1/3 and this >would >happen intermittently. Normally, the needle runs at the 1/2 way mark, >straight up and down. I'm glad to see that BMW is flowing the design traditions they started with the 2002. While it is possible for a cooling system air bubbles to cause the temperature sensor to jump around, I have never been able to blame them because the steps below usually led me to a faulty electrical component. Intermittent gauge readings are usually caused, in order of probability, by the bad contacts in the instrument cluster, a bad temp sensor, or bad wiring between them. As these cars age, contacts get corroded. To point the finger at the real culprit you can do some quick troubleshooting 1) Wiggle the instrument cluster connectors and apply pressure to the instrument cluster from the back to see if you can get the temperature gauge to jump around. If you can, you will need to repair the connections between the instrument cluster and the temperature gauge module. The temperature gauge module in the instrument cluster makes contact to the rest of the cluster circuits with screw terminals. A simple fix is to solder wires from the gauge module to the cluster PCB. You could just clean the board around the screw terminals with a pencil eraser as a short cut repair. On 2002's, E30's, and one E36 cluster I took apart the gas gauge works the same way. You might want to take care of them both while you are in there. 2) If the gauge reading did not jump around in step 1, go to the temperature sensor connector on the cylinder head and wiggle the connector. The sensor is under the intake and is difficult to see. There are in fact two of them. The front-most one is for the DME, the one you want is next to it. Wear rubber gloves, it will be hot near the head. You will of course need someone to watch the gauge while you do this. If you recruit you wife or girlfriend, it is better for her to watch the gauge while you wiggle the sensor connector. Although it is rational for to her wiggle the connector because she probably has smaller hands, please do not go there. If the gauge reading jumps, you can suspect either the wiring harness connector or the temperature sensor. Look at the wiring harness connector to see if there is any corrosion. Contact cleaner can remove the corrosion. You may try plugging the wiring harness connector into the forward mounted DME temp sensor to see if it works better. Only do this with the engine on but not running. It is possible to trip the check engine light if the DME does not see the temp sensor. I never tried this. You could also connect an Ohm meter to the sensor and see if its resistance jumps around The plastic cooling manifold has a small hole between sections to facilitate system bleeding. FWIW If you replace the thermostat, I suggest drilling a small hole on the highest point of the mounted thermostat. this step will further aide bleeding. There are after-market Aluminum cooling manifolds available. These might have bleeding nipples installed. Bleeding nipples are a good thing. John Pease __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com
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#7. New: How-to Guide for BMW E36 M3 Twin Fuel Pumps - from Andrew E. Kalman
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Date: Sun, 09 Jun 2002 21:58:00 -0700 From: "Andrew E. Kalman" <aek@pumpkininc.com> Subject: New: How-to Guide for BMW E36 M3 Twin Fuel Pumps Hi All. I've finally posted the first version of my how-to guide that covers how to install twin fuel pumps into the BMW E36 M3 in order to avoid fuel starvation in right turns. You can download it here: http://www.pumpkininc.com/content/doc/guide/ag-8.pdf I welcome any and all comments, suggestions, etc. There are a coupole of little things I'd like to improve upon, but I know I won't get around to them for a few weeks, and I wanted to make the guide available now, as I did the conversion some two months ago. Regards, -- ______________________________________ Andrew E. Kalman, Ph.D. aek@pumpkininc.com
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#8.cupping with dinan camber plates? - from Jay G
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Date: Sun, 09 Jun 2002 23:26:57 -1000 From: Jay G <jguzman@hawaii.edu> Subject: <E36> cupping with dinan camber plates? sorry for the cross post...while discussing a dinan stage 3 suspension (springs/shocks/camber plates) with a fellow lister, he commented that the camber plates caused his tires to cup...since my car will provide double duty as primarily a street car and an *occasional* race car...the tire cupping will pose a problem...does anyone else have this problem? my car is a 97 M3, and i already know about the accelerated tire wear from the camber plates...any help/info on this topic would be greatly appreciated...TIA!
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#9. Re: [E36M3]cupping with dinan camber plates? - from Geof McLaughlin
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Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 09:12:42 -0400 From: Geof McLaughlin <gfmiiilist@attbi.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] <E36> cupping with dinan camber plates? From my experience, tire cupping is not caused by camber but rather shock/strut issues. Check to make sure that yours are in good shape. Geof At 04:35 AM 6/10/02 -0500, Jay G wrote: >Date: Sun, 09 Jun 2002 23:26:57 -1000 >From: Jay G <jguzman@hawaii.edu> >Subject: <E36> cupping with dinan camber plates? > >sorry for the cross post...while discussing a dinan stage 3 suspension >(springs/shocks/camber plates) with a fellow lister, he commented that the >camber plates caused his tires to cup...since my car will provide double duty >as primarily a street car and an *occasional* race car...the tire cupping will >pose a problem...does anyone else have this problem? > >my car is a 97 M3, and i already know about the accelerated tire wear from the >camber plates...any help/info on this topic would be greatly >appreciated...TIA! > > > >************************************************************* >List Commands >UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. >DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. >GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > >To issue a command/request to the server: >Send a message with the command you wish executed as the >subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. >*************************************************************
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#10. Need Help with Cooling Problems (Long) - from Geof McLaughlin
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Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 09:30:50 -0400 From: Geof McLaughlin <gfmiiilist@attbi.com> Subject: Need Help with Cooling Problems (Long) I am encountering some cooling problems on my 1995 M3 that I run in I-Stock in BMWCCA Club Racing and was wondering if anyone has encountered similar problems and might be able to offer some suggestions. I have removed the fan clutch (aka mechanical fan) and have not had any problems with overheating with just the electric fan for the most part. I did overheat once when I spun on the track and then was sitting for a little bit before getting back on my way. I would somewhat expect this after having driven in the upper RPM band and then suddenly coming to a stop with no airflow through the radiator. However, this past weekend at Watkins Glen, I started to smell antifreeze on the first lap of the race and my car started to overheat on the second lap (after having no problems at all in the previous day's race). I slowed down and moved out of the draft to get cool airflow and it did not do anything. I have replaced all cooling system parts (radiator, thermostat, thermostat housing, water pump) except for the expansion tank cap and am currently running a thermostat that is always open (due to it sticking a couple of weeks ago). I also do not have the lower air duct (i.e. underpanel) installed on my car as it was missing when I bought it. It has been suggested that my head gasket may be going, but I would like to attack this problem from every other angle before replacement. It also has been suggested that the excess heat could be a result of a slight lean condition due to the chip that I am running as it tries to cope with adjusting the air/gas mixture between full and part throttle. I plan on installing a new radiator cap and thermostat and install the LTW radiator air duct when I install the LTW splitter. I have been told that removing the AC condensor may help in freeing up airflow to the radiator but really is not necessary. Can anyone provide some helpful tips/suggestions? I plan on testing the car again under track conditions with the changes above in a couple weeks. But if it does overheat, how hard is it to install a new head gasket one's self? WHat else should be replaced while I'm in there? I have been given a quote of $2000 by a very well respected engine builder including installing new guides (and I forget what else). This sounds reasonable, but I'd like to hear others experiences. Thanks! Geof