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#1. RE: [E36M3] Use of Harnesses sans roll bar - from alex.fadeev@verizon.com
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Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2002 12:12:11 -0500 From: alex.fadeev@verizon.com Subject: RE: [E36M3] Use of Harnesses sans roll bar "Carey Probst" <hcprobst@alum.mit.edu> wrote: > > Patroon Chapter has outlawed all 4 point harnesses for Drivers Schools, not > sure about autocrosses. FWIW, at LSC we are treating 4+ harnesses as a minimal performance 'mod' penalized by 1 point (if anyone cares you can see the details at www.lscbmwcca.org). Having your butt anchored to the seat frame with a 4+point harness _does_ make you faster. The 4+point harness effect on active and passive safety is obviously subject to debate, but I would not differentiate between 4 and 5+ point harnesses in discussing those effects. > They require either stock 3 point or the 5 or 6 point, but they don't > specify a roll bar with the 5 or 6 point. > > Couldn't get a good reason, other than possibility of submarining if belts > not worn properly. Couldn't reference a specific incident or injury, only > the 'we decided'. Sorry guys, but I am the only person who finds such a policy totally inane? I can see the argument for discouraging the use of 4+ harnesses without a bar or a cage. However, outlawing the 4-points while endorsing the 5+-point harnesses without a bar or a cage makes absolutely no sense. If the last paragraph above is true (I have no reason to doubt Carey), the justification provided by Patroon Chapter DE coordinators is pitiful at best. IMHO, alex f
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#2. Re: [E36M3] JTD Underpanel Install Question - from alex.fadeev@verizon.com
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Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2002 12:21:20 -0500 From: alex.fadeev@verizon.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] JTD Underpanel Install Question "Michael Maigret x2196" <studmuffin@galaxy.nsc.com> wrote: > > I am planning on purchasing the JTD underpanel. Currently, the center > underpanel on my 98 M3 is missing, but both of the pork chops are still > there. > Other than removing the pork chops, is there anything else I need to do > to prepare for the JTD installation? Michael, Nope, that's about it. Make sure you _do_ junk the pork chops. There is enough room to install them back in place below the JTD underpanel (with or without separating the pork chops into two parts). If you do, they will remain the lowest protruding piece of bodywork under your car's nose and will get torn off taking the plastic wheel liners with them. Ask me how I know that. > The main reason I'm asking is because in the pictures I've seen of the > underpanel installed there appears to be screws holding the underpanel > in place-- however, I can't figure out what the screws are screwed into? > On my car there is pretty much just a void where the factory underpanel > used to be... The panel attaches to all the stock screw-in points at the fender well liners and the front lip. IIRC you are also instructed to drill two additional attachment points in the center of the front lip. I went overboard and drilled a few more. This way the under-tray is not going anywhere without the front bumper ;-) > If there's an OEM part that I need could someone supply the part number/description? You will need 2+ metal screws and cheap clamps BMW uses to attache plastic bodywork pieces together. They clamps come with the new wheel liners so you should have plenty of spares by now. Just make sure you have the screws. HTH, alex f
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#3. RE: [E36M3] Fuel Gauge Problem - from Mark Kern
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Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2002 10:32:05 -0700 From: "Mark Kern" <markkern@cox.net> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Fuel Gauge Problem The fuel sender unit on 95-99 M3s is usually the culprit. The gas would corrode the metal disc, causing gauge to read faulty (I heard CA gas is worse for this too). Dealers will replace this with the new fuel sender unit, which is gold plated to resist corrosion. If you still have a warranty on this, replace it right away, the problem only gets worse. Mine would flip flop from full to empty several times during a drive. - Mark Kern 99 M3 > -----Original Message----- > From: Chuck Hanson [mailto:chuckh@dpsabq.com] > Sent: Tuesday, June 11, 2002 6:55 AM > To: E36M3 > Subject: [E36M3] Fuel Gauge Problem > > > Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2002 07:47:21 -0600 > From: Chuck Hanson <chuckh@dpsabq.com> > Subject: Fuel Gauge Problem > > I own a '97 M3/4 and seem to have a gas gauge problem. I filled up yesterday > (took over 15 gallons so I'm sure it was full) and the gas gauge is sitting > somewhere between 1/2 and 3/4. The OBC tells me I have about 120 miles to > empty. I topped it off this morning just to make sure it was full and it > was. > > Has anyone had a similar problem? Thoughts or ideas? It's still under CPO > warranty so hopefully it will only cost me an arm and not the leg too. > > Chuck Hanson > 97 M3/4
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#4. re: Need Help with Cooling Problems - from Burgess, Kim L
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Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2002 10:35:34 -0700 From: "Burgess, Kim L" <kim.l.burgess@boeing.com> Subject: re: Need Help with Cooling Problems Ron wrote: "Your statement about coolant circulating too quickly doesn't make sense. The opposite will take place. The radiator will remove too much heat from the coolant, so the engine will not reach proper operating temp.." Good well founded arguments, but....., in a previous life, while driving a carbureted V8 - no thermostat - my experience was that the cooling system would not keep-up with an always open T-stat and the system would overheat under load. Adding a low temp T-stat resulted in the always low coolant temperatures I though I was after. On mornings that were below freezing (with no T-stat) always resulted in a 'no heat in the heater' condition as well. So I believe it is true - that hot water needs to remain in the radiator long enough to cool (the fresh hot load (from the now open T-stat) flushes a radiated load (from the radiator) that cools the block and closes the T-stat stating the cycle once again) metered by a fully open, fully closed or partially open T-stat, the operative word - 'metered'. .....just another data slew.......no hot flame intended...... Kim Burgess
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#5. JTD panel - from kitwetzler@mindspring.com
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Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2002 13:38:12 -0400 From: "kitwetzler@mindspring.com" <kitwetzler@mindspring.com> Subject: JTD panel > installed there appears to be screws holding the\ > underpanel in place-- The screws in the center go to the reinforcement panel that sits perpendicular to the underpanel. Just adds stiffness. It comes with the undertray but doesn't attach to anything on the chassis. -kit -------------------------------------------------------------------- mail2web - Check your email from the web at http://mail2web.com/ .
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#6. Re: [E36M3] Need Help with Cooling Problems (Long) - from kitwetzler@mindspring.com
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Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2002 13:45:29 -0400 From: "kitwetzler@mindspring.com" <kitwetzler@mindspring.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Need Help with Cooling Problems (Long) > Without a thermostat, coolant always has a wide open path > and will always flow through the radiator. Actually, this can result in overheating. The transfer of heat to water is pretty efficient, but going from water to air is pretty inefficient... air makes a much better insulator than a heat transfer agent. Anyway, the thermostat does present a significant flow restriction, even fully open. I suspect that Joe is right, a lot of cars are pretty unhappy if you completely remove the thermostat. -kit -------------------------------------------------------------------- mail2web - Check your email from the web at http://mail2web.com/ .
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#7. Re: [E36M3] Need Help with Cooling Problems (Long) - from Geof McLaughlin
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Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 14:05:24 -0500 From: Geof McLaughlin <gfmiiilist@attbi.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Need Help with Cooling Problems (Long) Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 14:55:40 -0400 From: Geof McLaughlin <gfmiiilist@attbi.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Need Help with Cooling Problems (Long) Just got back from my mechanic... It does not look like it is the head gasket. I have been running without the internal guts of the thermostat for the last couple of weeks due to it sticking at a previous track event. I just got a new 88C thermostat and installed it. I took the car on the highway for 10+ miles keeping the RPMs between 5K and 7K and varying the engine load by alternating full throttle and part throttle. The temp did not budge past halfway. In my particular case, it looks like not running with a functioning thermostat in combination with not running the air duct/underpanel may have caused the problem. I plan on installing a new radiator cap as well and probably installing the 80C auxiliary fan switch as added insurance. Anyway, I have a track event in a couple of weeks where I can subject the car to a racing-type environment to test for sure, but I am keeping my fingers crossed! I will let you all know the outcome if it indeed turns out to be the head gasket. Geof ************************************************************* List Commands UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). To issue a command/request to the server: Send a message with the command you wish executed as the subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. *************************************************************
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#8. Re: JTD Underpanel Install Question - from Stan.Shaw@Excell.Net
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Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2002 14:01:43 -0400 From: <Stan.Shaw@Excell.Net> Subject: Re: JTD Underpanel Install Question I installed the underpanel a couple of years ago, and my oem parts were rip and torn. Check with Jim at http://www.jt-designs.com/ but my recollection is that you don't need anything of the old parts. Regards, Stan Shaw Excell.Net Phone: (413) 599-0399 Fax: (413) 599-0421 Stan.Shaw@Excell.Net http://www.excell.net/ "They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety." - Benjamin Franklin
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#9. RE: [E36M3] Suit Sizing? - from Andrew-Taylor Autosport
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Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2002 14:19:32 -0400 From: "Andrew-Taylor Autosport" <astaylor@taylorautosport.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Suit Sizing? Most important part is the distance between the crotch and the shoulders. Otherwise: wedgie city. European sizing is strange...try them on if you can...or find a vendor who will sell you one and exchange for size with no hassle. Andrew http://www.taylorautosport.com/ > To those of you with racing suits, have you been able to just > purchase them > "off the rack" and had good luck with sizing? Not sure how much it is to > get them custom fit, but I've heard rumors of *double* the price. > Yikes! > I'm worried I may have to do that, as the sizing charts are > really whacky! > For my waist size, I should apparently weight 50 pounds less than > I do, or > if I go by chest sizing, I'd need to add *8 inches* to my waist. > While that > sounds like a fun experiment, I don't think it's very feasible. > > Is it safe to assume you can just go by the chest measurements, etc, and > have a "roomy" mid section on the suit? Any guidelines as far as certain > manufacturers suits running bigger or smaller than others? > > Thanks, > Jonathan L. > > _________________________________________________________________ > Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at > http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp. > > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. > ************************************************************* > > > >
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#10. LTW Motorsport Strut Brace install - from Riley, Scott
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Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2002 13:25:11 -0500 From: "Riley, Scott" <sriley@cardinalcapital.com> Subject: LTW Motorsport Strut Brace install Does anybody have some detailed instructions on installing a LTW Motorsport strut bar? It seems very straightforward for the most part, but I concerned about any calibration/torque settings of the bar to the strut as well as laterally between the struts (if that makes any sense). TIA, Scott Riley '95 M3 #60 I-Stock