E36M3 #2363

Tuesday, June 11, 2002 21:15:47

This digest contains the following messages:

#1. Re: No Thermostat causes overheating? was ..Re: [E36M3] Need Help with Cooling Problems (Long) - from Joe Dyer
#2. RE: Use of Harnesses sans roll bar - from BOOM,BILL (HP-Roseville,ex1)
#3. headlight adjustments - from Paul Elliott
#4. FS: E36 chassis, 3.2L motors, MOTEC and other race car stuff for sale - from Jonathan Heiliger
#5. Fuel Gauge Problem - from Paul Elliott
#6. RE: [E36M3] headlight adjustments - from Carey Probst
#7. Re: No Thermostat causes overheating? was ..Re: [E36M3] Need Help with Cooling Problems (Long) - from Matt Henson
#8. Re: No Thermostat causes overheating? was ..Re: [E36M3] Need - from Geof McLaughlin
#9. Ground Control E36 M3 Coil-Over Spring Kit - from Ben Liaw - Rogue Engineering
#10. Fos Sale! - from Cesar Omar Torres

-------------------- 1 --------------------

#1. Re: No Thermostat causes overheating? was ..Re: [E36M3] Need Help with Cooling Problems (Long) - from Joe Dyer
Top
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2002 17:22:23 -0700 From: "Joe Dyer" <joedyer@attbi.com> Subject: Re: No Thermostat causes overheating? was ..Re: [E36M3] Need Help with Cooling Problems (Long) Matt, Its been many, many years since my College physics and chemistry classes, but let me try to explain it in layman terms -- if a molecule of hot water can transfer a quantity of its heat to a cooler metal surface as a function of time in contact, then what happens if it is in contact with the metal a shorter period of time? It would leave the area at a higher temperature than if it spent more time in contact with the cooler metal surface, so when it gets back to the engine, it contains more heat than it would otherwise. As it cycles through this cycle it would gradually increase in temperature because each time the molecule arrives at the radiator it would be hotter than the previous time! Now does that make sense? Joe ----- Original Message ----- From: "Matt Henson" <hensonator@yahoo.com> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Tuesday, June 11, 2002 3:15 PM Subject: No Thermostat causes overheating? was ..Re: [E36M3] Need Help with Cooling Problems (Long) | Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2002 15:11:22 -0700 (PDT) | From: Matt Henson <hensonator@yahoo.com> | Subject: No Thermostat causes overheating? was ..Re: [E36M3] Need Help with Cooling Problems (Long) | | I'm not sure that I follow this logic.. If the heat | can transfer from the metal of the engine to the | coolant then it can transfer from the coolant to the | metal radiator. Once the heat is in the metal | radiator, it will transfer to the air at the same rate | regardless of the speed of the coolant. There is no | direct coolant->air transfer of heat. Even if there | were, I don't see how the total heat transfer of the | system depends on the speed of the water. While it is | true that you won't transfer as much heat from the | coolant with each pass through the radiator, the | coolant gets more chances to cool off. Can anyone | explain this? Maybe if the coolant flows faster, | turbulence will increase, resulting in some thermal | barrier forming between the coolant and engine or | radiator? I know that water wetter, for example, | works by decreasing the thermal barier formed by the | coolant (by reducing surface tension?) Then again, | with air flow, the barrier typically degrades as the | turbulence increases due to excessive velocity. | | I'm not arguing that leaving the thermostat out won't | cause overheating since I don't know; I'm just curious | as to why this happens (if it does). | Thanks, | Matt | Always the engineer, I guess :-). | | --- "kitwetzler@mindspring.com" | <kitwetzler@mindspring.com> wrote: | > | > > Without a thermostat, coolant always has a wide | > open path | > > and will always flow through the radiator. | > | > Actually, this can result in overheating. The | > transfer of heat to water is pretty efficient, but | > going from water to air is pretty inefficient... air | > makes a much better insulator than a heat transfer | > agent. Anyway, the thermostat does present a | > significant flow restriction, even fully open. I | > suspect that Joe is right, a lot of cars are pretty | > unhappy if you completely remove the thermostat. | > | > -kit | > | | | __________________________________________________ | Do You Yahoo!? | Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup | http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com | | | ************************************************************* | List Commands | UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. | DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. | GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). | | To issue a command/request to the server: | Send a message with the command you wish executed as the | subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. | ************************************************************* | | |

Reply to: Joe Dyer

Top

-------------------- 2 --------------------

#2. RE: Use of Harnesses sans roll bar - from BOOM,BILL (HP-Roseville,ex1)
Top
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2002 20:40:07 -0400 From: "BOOM,BILL (HP-Roseville,ex1)" <bill_boom@hp.com> Subject: RE: Use of Harnesses sans roll bar > Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2002 12:12:11 -0500 > From: alex.fadeev@verizon.com > Subject: RE: [E36M3] Use of Harnesses sans roll bar > > [snip] > > The 4+point harness effect on active and passive safety is obviously > subject to debate, but I would not differentiate between 4 > and 5+ point > harnesses in discussing those effects. In cars with no roll bar, I could see where the 4 point might allow you to submarine enough to avoid the potential head-crush in a roll-over, whereas a 5+ point would not. - Bill

Reply to: BOOM,BILL (HP-Roseville,ex1)

Top

-------------------- 3 --------------------

#3. headlight adjustments - from Paul Elliott
Top
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2002 20:47:57 -0400 From: "Paul Elliott" <elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net> Subject: headlight adjustments On the stock plastic headlights, I see one knurled knob on the inside... 1)Does that adjust the side to side angle, and 2)do the 3 top screws handle the up and down angle? 3)Im guessing if you want to aim it down, you back off the 3 screws on top, and make sure the plastic black piece on the inside should unscrew to keep everything tight? 4)And if you want to aim them up, then you just turn the assembly clockwise? The instructions for removing the lamps completely say to make sure when youre undoing the 3 screws, to make sure and not let teh plastic piece turn...... 5)I assume thats so that aim isnt effected when you screw them back? 6)Also, according to the instructions (bentley) there seems to be special significance to the center screw, although I dont know what it is... Thanks.. Paul Elliott --------------------------------------------------------- '99 White M3; < 45K miles; Dinan stage II SC kit with 6" RMS crank pulley: 11 psi; AA Water Injection; Fikse FM-10s; X-Brace; Dinan Koni Suspension; Stygar SS and Clutch Stop; Sound by Polk, Excelon, JLAudio

Reply to: Paul Elliott

Top

-------------------- 4 --------------------

#4. FS: E36 chassis, 3.2L motors, MOTEC and other race car stuff for sale - from Jonathan Heiliger
Top
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2002 17:49:34 -0700 From: "Jonathan Heiliger" <jh@donutzracing.com> Subject: FS: E36 chassis, 3.2L motors, MOTEC and other race car stuff for sale Everything is located in the SF Bay Area, but could be delivered to select locations. The cage was just completed and is ready to be picked up anytime. I can be reached by email or via telephone at 650.289.5055. Email or call for details and pictures. -jh- * E36 M3 Chassis w/ Cage - '99 M3 chassis. - Cage built to fit WC Touring specs by McGee Motorsports at Sears Point, CA. NASCAR door bars, tied into suspension points, etc. - Chassis was media blasted and painted with primer inside and out. - Entire chassis has been stitch welded. - This cage is truly a work of art, super strong, stiff and safe. The pictures don't even do it justice. - Original body panels, dash, doors, bumpers, etc. are included. - People who have seen the car in person feel it's equal or better than a BMW Motorsport chassis. You won't find a nicer platform to build your next race car on. - Over $20K invested (between buying the car & fabrication). - Serious buyers, please inquire for pictures. * E36 3.2L US-spec motor - 0 hours! It's totally fresh. - Balanced & blue printed. - Schrick 272 cams. - Total seal rings, new oil pump, CF head gasket, timing chain, bearings, etc. - ARP headstuds. - Race ECU and wiring harness included. * E36 3.2L US-spec motor & gearbox - 5-speed transmission. - Removed from '99 M3 with approx. 4000 mi (street). - Comes complete with stock ECU, intake, partial wiring harness (trunk section damaged in fire, otherwise believed to be ok), etc. * E36 M3 limited-slip differential - Removed from '99 M3 with approx. 4000 mi (street). * ProTrac Double Adjustable Shocks - Front & rear shock setup for an E36. - Comes with springs and perches. - Used in 6 races. * M5 motor & transmission - 6-speed transmission. - Wiring & ECU included, although it's recommended to use an aftermarket engine management system with this motor due to the complexity of the wiring harness. - Still on its shipping palette. - 8000 km (street). * MOTEC ADL Dash/Logger - The following features are activated: 1MB logging, Pro logging, and 32 input channels (need to verify). The Pro-Logging option includes graph overlays, virtual dash, mathematical functions, XY graphs (scatter plots), Track Maps (shows minimum and maximum speeds, gear change points, throttle position and braking points) and many other advanced features. - Beacon transmitter and receiver included. - Various sensors (potentiometers, pressure sensors, etc.) are included. - This is not the backlit dash. - The dash has never been installed or used, comes with original packaging.

Reply to: Jonathan Heiliger

Top

-------------------- 5 --------------------

#5. Fuel Gauge Problem - from Paul Elliott
Top
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2002 21:20:08 -0400 From: "Paul Elliott" <elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net> Subject: Fuel Gauge Problem >>replace it right away, the problem only gets worse<< On mine its happened about 3 or mayhe 4 times in the 3 years since Ive had the car...Each time the episode goes away before the tank is used up...It doesnt seem to get progressively worse in my case...The episodes seem to be pretty equally spaced .... Paul Elliott --------------------------------------------------------- '99 White M3; < 45K miles; Dinan stage II SC kit with 6" RMS crank pulley: 11 psi; AA Water Injection; Fikse FM-10s; X-Brace; Dinan Koni Suspension; Stygar SS and Clutch Stop; Sound by Polk, Excelon, JLAudio

Reply to: Paul Elliott

Top

-------------------- 6 --------------------

#6. RE: [E36M3] headlight adjustments - from Carey Probst
Top
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2002 21:22:57 -0400 From: "Carey Probst" <hcprobst@alum.mit.edu> Subject: RE: [E36M3] headlight adjustments The main significance of the middle screw is that it isn't used on the e-code lights, just the outer ones. Also the e-code lights have adjustors on the light for horizontal and vertical. Never had to adjust the US spec., just replaced cause they sucked. Carey Probst, '99 M3/2, BMW CCA Patroon and Genesee Valley Chapters Sharked, Stressed, Schrothed, Gauged, Hitched, X-Braced A well regulated militia being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear arms shall not be infringed. > -----Original Message----- > From: Paul Elliott [mailto:elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net] > Sent: Tuesday, June 11, 2002 8:45 PM > To: E36M3 > Subject: [E36M3] headlight adjustments > > > Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2002 20:47:57 -0400 > From: "Paul Elliott" <elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net> > Subject: headlight adjustments > > On the stock plastic headlights, I see one knurled knob on the inside... > > 1)Does that adjust the side to side angle, and > 2)do the 3 top screws handle the up and down angle? > 3)Im guessing if you want to aim it down, you back off the 3 > screws on top, > and make sure the plastic black piece on the inside should unscrew to keep > everything tight? > 4)And if you want to aim them up, then you just turn the assembly > clockwise? > > The instructions for removing the lamps completely say to make sure when > youre undoing the 3 screws, to make sure and not let teh plastic piece > turn...... > 5)I assume thats so that aim isnt effected when you screw them back? > 6)Also, according to the instructions (bentley) there seems to be special > significance to the center screw, although I dont know what it is... > > Thanks.. > > > Paul Elliott > --------------------------------------------------------- > '99 White M3; < 45K miles; Dinan stage II SC kit with 6" RMS > crank pulley: > 11 psi; AA Water Injection; Fikse FM-10s; X-Brace; Dinan Koni > Suspension; > Stygar SS and Clutch Stop; Sound by Polk, Excelon, JLAudio > > > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. > ************************************************************* > > >

Reply to: Carey Probst

Top

-------------------- 7 --------------------

#7. Re: No Thermostat causes overheating? was ..Re: [E36M3] Need Help with Cooling Problems (Long) - from Matt Henson
Top
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2002 18:38:01 -0700 (PDT) From: Matt Henson <hensonator@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: No Thermostat causes overheating? was ..Re: [E36M3] Need Help with Cooling Problems (Long) As a laymen it makes but as an engineer, I don't see it. While your analogy is somewhat true, it doesn't factor in the fact that the coolant also spends less time in the engine. The key thing here is that this is a closed system, not just a single molecule of water. In the closed system, there is always the same amount of water in the engine and in the radiator, always transferring heat. It doesn't matter how fast the water is flowing. If it flows too slowly, it will pick up more heat in the engine (for every time around the system) and dissipate more in the radiator. But, with the lower flow rate there isn't as much water per second to absorb that heat. I don't think that it should matter too much what the flow rate is, except if it's too slow then the water will take too much heat while in the engine and boil. So I think that this must be some second order issue. I did a search on the internet for this and all that I could find is that it is a myth, but you can't believe everything you read on the internet ;-) -Matt --- Joe Dyer <joedyer@attbi.com> wrote: > > Matt, > > Its been many, many years since my College physics > and chemistry classes, > but let me try to explain it in layman terms -- if > a molecule of hot water > can transfer a quantity of its heat to a cooler > metal surface as a function > of time in contact, then what happens if it is in > contact with the metal a > shorter period of time? It would leave the area at > a higher temperature > than if it spent more time in contact with the > cooler metal surface, so when > it gets back to the engine, it contains more heat > than it would otherwise. > As it cycles through this cycle it would gradually > increase in temperature > because each time the molecule arrives at the > radiator it would be hotter > than the previous time! > > Now does that make sense? > > Joe __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com

Reply to: Matt Henson

Top

-------------------- 8 --------------------

#8. Re: No Thermostat causes overheating? was ..Re: [E36M3] Need - from Geof McLaughlin
Top
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2002 22:00:02 -0400 From: Geof McLaughlin <gfmiiilist@attbi.com> Subject: Re: No Thermostat causes overheating? was ..Re: [E36M3] Need Help with Cooling Problems (Long) Very nicely put, Joe, and one of the reasons (but not the only one) that I believe caused my motor to overheat. BTW, I did not have the thermostat completely removed, just its internal guts so there was some restriction (albeit minor). Geof At 07:25 PM 6/11/02 -0500, Joe Dyer wrote: >but let me try to explain it in layman terms -- if a molecule of hot water >can transfer a quantity of its heat to a cooler metal surface as a function >of time in contact, then what happens if it is in contact with the metal a >shorter period of time? It would leave the area at a higher temperature >than if it spent more time in contact with the cooler metal surface, so when >it gets back to the engine, it contains more heat than it would otherwise. >As it cycles through this cycle it would gradually increase in temperature >because each time the molecule arrives at the radiator it would be hotter >than the previous time! > >Now does that make sense?

Reply to: Geof McLaughlin

Top

-------------------- 9 --------------------

#9.  Ground Control E36 M3 Coil-Over Spring Kit - from Ben Liaw - Rogue Engineering
Top
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2002 22:06:41 -0400 From: "Ben Liaw - Rogue Engineering" <ben@rogueengineering.com> Subject: <FS> Ground Control E36 M3 Coil-Over Spring Kit For Sale, Ground Control E36 M3 adjustable Coil-Over Spring Kit. Brand new, never installed. List is $399 on Ground Control website. See details here: http://www.ground-control.com/gcbmwcat.htm First $250 plus shipping from NJ. Contact me privately. Ben

Reply to: Ben Liaw - Rogue Engineering

Top

-------------------- 10 --------------------

#10. Fos Sale! - from Cesar Omar Torres
Top
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2002 22:11:46 -0400 From: "Cesar Omar Torres" <cesar@cfl.rr.com> Subject: Fos Sale! Dear BMW Owners I have an original BMW WOODKIT Burl Wood 7 pieces (real wood); this is only for the two doors bmw e36, part number (82-11-1-469-575). Original invoice include. I paid for this 7 piece 750.72 at fields bmw in Orlando, FL. Instruction included. Also for sale Original BMW lighted 5 speed shift nub. For more info or pictures e-mail me at CESAR@CFL.RR.COM price for the wood kit is 400.00 or better offer and 90.00 for the nub. I accept Paypal, Personal check, cashier check or certified check. Thanks! Cesar Orlando, FL 1997 BMW M3 407-761-0750 cell 407-854-1419 work 407-281-0163 home

Reply to: Cesar Omar Torres

Top