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#1. [E36M3] Z3 Instrument Cluster - from Mark Kern
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Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 20:05:24 -0500 From: "Mark Kern" <markkern@cox.net> Subject: [E36M3] Z3 Instrument Cluster Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 18:04:43 -0700 From: "Mark Kern" <markkern@cox.net> Subject: Z3 Instrument Cluster I thought I saw that someone had replaced their E36 instrument cluster with one from a Z3? The chrome trim looks really cool. Has anyone seen this done? How much would it cost? - Mark P.S. thanks to all who replied about repaired wheels. I mailed some serious questions to WheelCollisionCenter.com and am satisfied enough with the answers to attempt the repair to the wheel. It will, however, remain as my spare and not be mounted for daily use. ************************************************************* List Commands UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). To issue a command/request to the server: Send a message with the command you wish executed as the subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. *************************************************************
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#2. motor mount replacement and guibo questions - from kitwetzler@mindspring.com
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Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2002 17:25:38 -0400 From: "kitwetzler@mindspring.com" <kitwetzler@mindspring.com> Subject: motor mount replacement and guibo questions Did the motor mounts on my 97 M3/4 last Monday. Car is smoother and the shifter feels better. (I already have JTD tranny rings) really cleared up the gronk between 1st and 2nd... (I have a uuc short shifter) Not too hard of a job. Tools: -a bunch of extensions (I used about 3 feet worth) -17 mm socket -flex joint -breaker or cheater bar -tall jack -2x4 1. Disconnect intake piping. (this makes it easier to reach the driver's side upper mount's bolt) 2. Put the car up on ramps. (let car cool, you are working near the hot stuff) 3. The engine mounts are pretty easy to find they are straight above the subframe. 4. Loosen the upper nut on both mounts. You will have to use all of the extensions and go in from the top. The passenger side one might be able to be done from the bottom, but you have less room and you are blind from the bottom. 5. put your favorite socket through one of the convenient holes in the control arms, and loosen the bottom nuts. 6. Remove strut tower bar if you have one. 7. Disconnect the exhaust at the header -=> midpipe flange. Probably best to remove the midpipe, but I put it on stands. 7. Very carefully lift up the engine using the jack and the 2x4. Lift it up just enough to get the mounts out, don't get completely under the car while you do this. 8. I put the block on the oil pan for the first try and the A/C compressor mount for the second. You have to lift the engine about 3-4 inches. Be very careful, there at lots of parts that can break, don't lift too fast and be sure not to lower too fast. I did the driver's side first. 9. Replace with new mounts. 10. Align new mounts. The bottom of the mount has a threaded stud and a little alignment nub, make nub is properly seated. 11. Slowly lower the engine until drops onto the upper studs. 12. Torque the bolts, replace intake piping. you're done. hope that helps someone... My car puts out about 50 ft lbs more than a normal e36 m3, so that may have hastened the demise of my mounts. They were just a little cracked around the edges but it made a decent difference in NVH, and shifting, and throttle on/off. Unfortunately, I'm still getting an occasional thunk out of the rear end. Thinking it might be a guibo or something similar... not sure yet. Hoping that it's not the diff... (time for a 3.15? the supercharger would love it...) I checked sway bar mounts (seem fine) etc. Gonna check subframe bushings, etc. Anyone have an Alpina diff cover for sale? I missed the used $200 one at turner. :( -kit -------------------------------------------------------------------- mail2web - Check your email from the web at http://mail2web.com/ .
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#3. strange sound at initial acceleration - from Jason Sarich
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Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2002 14:35:18 -0700 From: "Jason Sarich" <sarich_m3@prontomail.com> Subject: strange sound at initial acceleration Ladies and Gents, I have a 99 M3, that recently (last 2 months) have noticed a very strange noise/vibration when i first give gas after engaging the clutch. To give you a better Idea of what I mean, try backing out of a parking space or parallel park and the initial change of momentum is where I hear the sound. (like maybe the flywheel? I don't know, I am guessing) But after the initial gas, it dissapears. The only thing that I noticed different from everything else, is after my inspection 1 at Dinan (58k miles) They put in WELL over the recommended oil. The oil after almost 3k miles is almost down to the max fill line. Could this cause that? They also replaced the power steering lines during that inspection. Any help would be appreciated. -Jason Sarich ______________________________________________________________ Get Your Free E-mail at http://www.prontomail.com
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#4. Re: [E36M3] sway bar bushings - from Jeff A
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Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 19:35:24 -0500 From: "Jeff A" <aabel@austin.rr.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] sway bar bushings Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 19:30:01 -0500 From: "Jeff A" <aabel@austin.rr.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] sway bar bushings > Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 19:45:50 -0400 > From: "Paul Elliott" <elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net> > Subject: sway bar bushings > > I got a chance to take a look at my front left sway bar rubber bushing > yesterday, and it looked a little deformed, squished, and stressed to me. I > could see the split in the bushing clearly, but one side was sticking out of > the bushing brace further than the other, and sort of twisted. If it were > alive, Id say it looked as though it were 'pained'. Would you say this is > normal, that it needs replacement, or somewhere in between? > > Thanks. > > Paul Elliott Hah! A perfect excuse for new sways. Jeff ************************************************************* List Commands UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). To issue a command/request to the server: Send a message with the command you wish executed as the subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. *************************************************************
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#5. RE: [E36M3] Brake pedal height - from Doug Wirth
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Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2002 14:52:14 -0700 From: Doug Wirth <DWirth@serena.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Brake pedal height A month or so ago, someone on the list talked of their brake pedal being to low to heal-toe. My 99 has the same issue. I brought it to the dealer to have them adjust the height of the brake pedal under warranty. They said that it was within speck to be that low. Has anyone had any luck getting their pedal height fixed, or am I off to an independent to get this fixed. Thanks for your help. Doug Wirth 99M3 end *********************************************************************** This email and any files transmitted with it are confidential and intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed. Any unauthorized review, use, disclosure or distribution is prohibited. If you are not the intended recipient, please contact the sender by reply e-mail and destroy all copies of the original message. ***********************************************************************
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#6. Oil wieghts (was New oil, no burning!) - from Juan Bruce
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Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2002 15:07:38 -0700 From: "Juan Bruce" <jbrucebmw@hotmail.com> Subject: Oil wieghts (was New oil, no burning!) This brings up a topic I've been pondering lately. I've run Redline 20w50 or 15w50 in my M3 since '95 when it had 10-15k miles on it. At the time that was what Dinan recommended. It seemed safe especially if you are going to be running on the track in hot weather (usual conditions for CA tracks). Then I was in Dinan a few weeks ago and one of the techs asked me why I was running 20w50 and not 10w40 or 5w30. He said that they do not believe in using 20w50 in E36 M3s anymore and they just used to recommend it because they were used to the older cars. He said the hydraulic lifters and vanos do not like 20w50. So what weight of oil is everyone running? Juan Bruce BMW CCA GGC '85 M635CSi '95 M3 >-------------------- 5 -------------------- >Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2002 12:25:39 -0700 >From: "twisty M3" <twistym3@hotmail.com> >Subject: [E36M3] New oil, no burning! > >Forgot to post this earlier... I have a '99 M3 and it seemed to be "gifted" >as one of the oil burners. I'd generally go through 1/2 to 1 quart every >couple of weeks, depending on my driving, and up to that much on a heavy >track weekend. That was with the BMW branded 5w30 and the newer 5w40. > >Seeing as my car has been seeing much more track time than it had in the >past, I decided to experiment with a different oil, but wasn't even >thinking >of experiencing any change in the amount of oil I'd burn. I figured I was >just stuck with what I got. I opted to give the Mobil 1 15w50 a try, since >that's what alot of track junkies were using. > >Good news! After the first track weekend, it still seemed to burn a little >bit, so I topped her off. Before the racing school last weekend, I made >sure I was running apx. 8 quarts and I didn't end up burning any, according >to the dipstick anyway. It read the same on Sunday afternoon as it did on >Sunday morning and Saturday morning. Whacky stuff! Only slight negative >is >that the revs to seem to fall slightly slower, but not enough that it seems >to impede performance or rev-matching much. > >Another track day tomorrow, so I'll keep an eye on it again, of course, but >I think I'm no longer burning oil. > >Just thought I'd share, >Jonathan L. > >_________________________________________________________________ >Join the world’s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. >http://www.hotmail.com > _________________________________________________________________ Join the world’s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. http://www.hotmail.com
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#7. RE: Re: [E36M3] motor mount replacement and guibo questions - from kitwetzler@mindspring.com
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Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2002 18:25:24 -0400 From: "kitwetzler@mindspring.com" <kitwetzler@mindspring.com> Subject: RE: Re: [E36M3] motor mount replacement and guibo questions Just another word of warning... if you drop your motor, it is really going to *@(#$*(@#$ up your car. The best way to do this is with an engine crane connected to the engine lift hook, but I didn't have some handy. Proceed at your own risk, not responsible for smoosh-age. -kit, who will have a guibo procedure pretty soon -------------------------------------------------------------------- mail2web - Check your email from the web at http://mail2web.com/ .
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#8. Racing / Light weight jack - from Jason Knight
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Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2002 15:39:22 -0700 (PDT) From: Jason Knight <knight2244@yahoo.com> Subject: Racing / Light weight jack All, my first anniversary is approaching, and once again I get to reap the benefits of having a wife with a race car. Traditional 1st Ann. is paper, modern equivalent is clock. But nothing says I love you quite like a light weight floor jack! I've found: 65 lb AC jack for $235/$260 at http://www.ultimategarage.com/acjacks.html 42 lb OTC (?) for $529 at http://www.mile-x.com/1tonracingjack1.html 42 lb Norco (back ordered?) for $499.99 at http://www.hyjacks.com/race.htm 37 lb unknown maker for $199 at http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=47246 34 lb Longacre for $595 at http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/long26.htm 34/37 lb unknown maker for $599/$535 at http://www.evosport.com/product/racing/ 32 lb Brunnhoelzl for $588 at http://www.pitstopusa.com/BRUPITJACKS.asp There's been a little talk on the list about jacks, but nothing definitive. The $200 jack at Harbor Freight sure seems priced to sell, but I'm a bit leary of that good of a deal. The price of the AC is nice too, but is 65 lbs that much of a savings over our current 100 lbs (which she can lift but not with ease). Anyone have experience with any of these or similar jacks? Any words of wisdom or woe would be appreciated. Also, the car is currently 3000+ lbs, and most of these jacks are rated for 1 - 1.5 tons. Anyone know if these can handle her car for short durations without problems? After all, I can't really tell her to lose weight... Thank you. Jason __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com
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#9. Re: [E36M3] Oil wieghts (was New oil, no burning!) - from Matt Henson
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Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2002 15:40:29 -0700 (PDT) From: Matt Henson <hensonator@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Oil wieghts (was New oil, no burning!) --- Juan Bruce <jbrucebmw@hotmail.com> wrote: > Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2002 15:07:38 -0700 > From: "Juan Bruce" <jbrucebmw@hotmail.com> > Subject: Oil wieghts (was New oil, no burning!) > > This brings up a topic I've been pondering lately. > I've run Redline 20w50 > or 15w50 in my M3 since '95 when it had 10-15k miles > on it. At the time > that was what Dinan recommended. It seemed safe > especially if you are going > to be running on the track in hot weather (usual > conditions for CA tracks). > Then I was in Dinan a few weeks ago and one of the > techs asked me why I was > running 20w50 and not 10w40 or 5w30. He said that > they do not believe in > using 20w50 in E36 M3s anymore and they just used to > recommend it because > they were used to the older cars. He said the > hydraulic lifters and vanos > do not like 20w50. > > So what weight of oil is everyone running? > > Juan Bruce I run 10W40 most of the time. You should run the weight listed in the owner's manual for your use (temperature range). As others have observed, your car may use less oil with a higher viscosity, but this will also hurt performance, fuel economy and generally not be as good for your engine. Modern oils, especially synthetics, don't have as much viscosity breakdown as the old stuff, so you don't really need to run extra thick oil for the track. Good Luck, Matt __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com
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#10. Re: [E36M3] Use of Harnesses sans roll bar - from Skip Bogard
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Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2002 19:21:23 -0400 From: Skip Bogard <skip.bogard@alumni.duke.edu> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Use of Harnesses sans roll bar Jeff, You might really enjoy the book "Crash Injuries: How and Why They Happen" I could subtitle it, "How we break, rip, and tear." It's a Society of Automotive Engineering book, but relatively easy reading for non-fiction: http://www.sae.org/servlets/productDetail?PROD_TYP=BOOK&PROD_CD=B-669 Try reading the section on "Closed Head Injuries" (CHI's). These represent most brain injuries in which there is NO damage to the skull, but the brain, its membranes, or its blood supply have been damaged. The discussion on the "Talking Dead" (talk for a few hours, seem fine, seek no medical help, then die) is disturbing. Worse reading than a Steven King novel. Go home, see your family, then die. But you were already condemned for dead. In the discussion, it points out that for non-contact or acceleration injuries of the head, angular motion appears to be more causal than linear motion and side-to-side motion is more causal than front-to-back or back-to-front motion. Later, it's mentioned that it only takes 150-750 lbs of pressure to break the bones in the front of your face. If this happens, you run the risk of losing your sense of smell, taste, or sight. These are sometimes termed maxillofacial injuries. In contrast, it takes between 750-2500 lbs of pressure to fracture your skull. Given that, which would you rather have, your face smash into something hard in the car (like your instructors helmet, if you aren't wearing your face shield?) or the roof come down on your head? It just goes to show that its hard to design a safety system for all possible events, yet maintain a streetable car. As far as the roof coming down on your head...your spine can take a lot more compression abuse than the bones in the front of your face. It is amazingly resilient in compression. In fact, according to Crash Injuries, the mode of spinal disk failure is not likely compression only, but compression with torsion or compression with flexion. Worse though, is elongation, flexion. Think noose. Sideways elongation, then hitting the window or A-pillar has the same effect as having the hangman's noose stretch into a tight object, then "hitting" you in the side of the neck with a stiff rope (it's hard to describe, maybe someone can do a better job than I can on this....) Point is, when your neck stretches, then your head hits a window...it has the same affect as getting hung...same basic failure mode...you neck cannot stand up up to a hard surface impact while elongated. In summary, it's a good book...lots of "failure modes" to think about. Sometimes I think we just have a fear of having something come down on our skull, and that makes us blind to the other potential catastrophes that can happen with 3 point safety belts. Like for example, our head or face hitting our passenger's head in a driver's side T-bone, or the window in a passenger side T-bone. Fortunately, mostly all we have for driver's schools is anecdotal evidence when it comes to bodily injury. We have lots examples of body shortcomings in the E36, but we don't yet have any Dale E.'s who died at a BMW CCA school. But if we did, we'd probably find the weak point was not our fine cars, but more likely our frail necks. And the discussion would migrate from harness bars vs. roll cages and turn instead to neck protection. In that case, I will have always wished that I were not made to wear a helmet, but retained instead just my 5 pt. harness and harness bar. Or dropped $1200-$1600 on a HANS. Lots to ponder, isn't there? - Skip (who still uses only a harness bar & 5 pt. harness after reading that book, because rollover is just one mode of getting hosed on track or on the freeway. Besides, my harness bar ties my two B-pillars together. I'm guessing that will help body integrity in both side impact (T-bone) accidents and rollovers. I like to keep the harness bar in during rainy interstate driving...we have 8 lanes and I suspect the chances of getting T-boned are higher than a rollover on congested, rainy & wet multi-lane freeways. Enjoy the book if you get it (it's not cheap, but there is nothing like it.) Jeff A wrote: > > Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2002 07:45:23 -0500 > From: "Jeff A" <aabel@austin.rr.com> > Subject: [E36M3] Use of Harnesses sans roll bar > > Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2002 07:33:23 -0500 > From: "Jeff A" <aabel@austin.rr.com> > Subject: Use of Harnesses sans roll bar > > I don't recall seeing any discussion on the above subject, and in an archive > search, I found Neil's comments are well writtten and crystallize the issue. > I'm in the common situation of trying to improve safety and car control by > upgrading my restraint system, from factory belts to something more robust > like a 4, 5, or 6 point harness. The street compromises of a roll bar (roll > cage totally unacceptable) are difficult to swallow for me. > > I was wondering if anyone had thoughts to add. I've talked with vendors, > racers, DE instructors, a DE president, TCK, I/O Port Racing, and whomever > else would give me their thoughts on the issue, and I remain undecided. > I've gathered lots of opinions, and a few people have backed up their > thoughts with anecdotal evidence. Of interest, the folks at I/O Port who > advocate a roll bar, detailed two E36 rollovers. They cited poor roof > integrity, totally crumpled A pillars, and somewhat bent B pillars, as > evidence that track driven E36's need a roll bar. Interesting to note that > both drivers walked away, one was wearing the Schroth ASM 4-point harnes, > the other factory belts. > > ------------------ > > Using a roll bar with 4/5 point harness (and of course helmet) will > undoubtedly increase passive safety for track use. It will also render your > rear seat unusable for passenger occupancy the rest of the time. > On the street the bar, when used without helmet and harness, may also > compromise front seat safety unacceptably. This will be worse for tall > drivers, whose seat position can put their unprotected head close to the > bar, but may not be much of an issue at all for short drivers. It'll tend to > be better for coupés, but worse for sedans, due to the respective B pillar > positions. > > - The argument is sometimes advanced that a 4 (or 5) point harness should > not be used without a roll bar or cage, since in case of a rollover with > severe roof collapse (a la Sears Point) the occupants may be held upright > and suffer serious spinal injuries. In 5 years I've never seen or heard of > any such occurrence at a school, although the possibility warrants > discussion. A couple of club chapters now mandate using only the stock > lap/diagonal belts if there's no rollover protection. However it's also > absolutely certain that a 4 point harness offers superior protection in any > other accident mode than total roof collapse. > What's the probability of a rollover with severe roof collapse vs. that of > all other accident modes combined? Where is the line of compromise drawn, > and who should make that decision? > > - With regard to rollovers, there may be some regional variations at play. > The tracks I've driven on here in the Midwest are: > Gingerman > Grattan > Indianapolis Raceway Park > Mid Ohio > Michigan International Speedway > Putnam Park > Road America > Of these only MIS and RA even generate 5th gear speeds in an M3, and at MIS > the higher speeds are out on the NASCAR bowl, which is wide and predictable > (well, it is if you're not drafting nose-to-tail in the pack at 180 mph, > anyway!). Obviously I'm assuming that rollovers severe enough to collapse > the roof totally tend to require the energy of higher speeds. > Are the conditions and the risk trade-offs different at Summit Point, Road > Atlanta, Laguna Seca and others, with their higher speed corners? Maybe so. > > My point in all this is that running a street car at a race track is a > safety compromise from the very start. There are few absolute answers, and > every participant needs to make his or her own informed and well-considered > decisions about safety. > > Having said which, maybe I'll see some of you at Motor City's school at MIS > the weekend after July 4th. > > Drive safely. > > Neil > 96 M3 > > ------------------- > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. > ************************************************************* > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. > *************************************************************