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#1. Where to get Hi Temp Silicone Grease? - from Paul Elliott
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Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2002 21:26:15 -0400 From: "Paul Elliott" <elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net> Subject: Where to get Hi Temp Silicone Grease? Jeff, >>Hmmm, Paul, any issues with use of grease on your brake pads? I'd think you have to be mighty careful not to get any on the friction surface. Given my general lack of mechanical skills, I'd be a little hesitant.<< Issues? I first heard of it from official Volvo documentation...Before my M3, I had a '95 Volvo 850 Turbo...And like with the M, I accumulated all the Haynes, Bentley and Volvo literature on maintenance. Volvo has a part number for this product, and its exclusively used to smear the pad backings, and the tongues and ears on the calipur....I agree...you dont want to get it on the friction surface...But all it takes is a modest amount of care...Honestly, if anyone has trouble keeping much of it off the pad fronts, Id seriously question their ability to invoke a well planned down shift... Besides a smear or two on the fronts isnt going to send you careening off the nearest wall. Paul Elliott --------------------------------------------------------- '99 White M3; < 45K miles; Dinan stage II SC kit with 6" RMS crank pulley: 11 psi; AA Water Injection; Fikse FM-10s; X-Brace; Dinan Koni Suspension; Stygar SS and Clutch Stop; Sound by Polk, Excelon, JLAudio
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#2. Re: Caliper rebuild - from RonStygar@aol.com
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Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2002 21:20:54 EDT From: RonStygar@aol.com Subject: Re: Caliper rebuild Connect to: http://www.unofficialbmw.com/e36/brakes/e36_lets_brake_it.html
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#3. Brake Caliper Question? - from Paul Elliott
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Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2002 21:29:01 -0400 From: "Paul Elliott" <elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net> Subject: Brake Caliper Question? >>Does this mean I need to do a caliper rebuild or can it be left alone?<< Like Chester said, the dust cover is all thats keeping your pistons hi and dri. With a compromised one, your piston will follow in short order. Its cheaper to replace the cover than the calipur innards, which will undoubtedly follow. Paul Elliott --------------------------------------------------------- '99 White M3; < 45K miles; Dinan stage II SC kit with 6" RMS crank pulley: 11 psi; AA Water Injection; Fikse FM-10s; X-Brace; Dinan Koni Suspension; Stygar SS and Clutch Stop; Sound by Polk, Excelon, JLAudio
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#4. Re: [E36M3] One-touch sunroof? Driver's side window fix? - from Reid Conti
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Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2002 19:39:24 -0700 From: Reid Conti <reid@conti.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] One-touch sunroof? Driver's side window fix? Bob, Thanks for the info. For anyone who is interested, the parts are $144 and $3 thru www.gapa.com. - reid > > In a message dated 6/12/02 12:38:40 AM Eastern Daylight Time, reid@conti.net > writes: > > >> anyone ever solve the driver's side window auto-up problem? You know the >> one, sometimes it stops as if it's encountering too much resistance (pinch >> protection) and drops down a half inch, before it gets anywhere near being >> closed? > > > Well in a way yes. Had the dealer look at it before the warranty expired last > fall. They said that it was a classic window motor problem. They replaced it, > and I have not experenced a problem since. Parts replaced were: > 67-62-8-360-978 electric drive > 51-32-1-938-884 7-sliding piece > > Hope that helps. > > Bob Gill > 97 ///M3 coupe > Philly Region SCCA > AS Champion 1997 & 2000 > BSP Champion 2001
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#5. Re: [E36M3] Re: Caliper rebuild - from Gerry
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Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2002 23:11:51 -0400 From: Gerry <gerry@parallel-mkt.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Caliper rebuild Ron, Is there a better more heat resistant boot available for the E36///M3? Gerry > > From: RonStygar@aol.com > Date: 2002/06/16 Sun PM 09:25:15 EDT > To: E36M3 <e36m3@bmw-m.net> > Subject: [E36M3] Re: Caliper rebuild > > Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2002 21:20:54 EDT > From: RonStygar@aol.com > Subject: Re: Caliper rebuild > > Connect to: http://www.unofficialbmw.com/e36/brakes/e36_lets_brake_it.html > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. > ************************************************************* > > >
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#6. *sigh* differential R&R - from Kit Wetzler
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Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2002 20:37:15 -0700 From: Kit Wetzler <kitwetzler@mindspring.com> Subject: *sigh* differential R&R Fixed the bonking in the rear (turns out a diff bolt snapped. Lesson learned, DON'T JACK THE CAR UP BY THE DIFF) drilled it and extracted it, after dropping the diff on Friday. No problem went back together fine. Definitely a good idea to replace ALL the bolts that go into the diff, use stock bolts or other M12x1.50, but BE SURE to use at LEAST grade 10.9 bolts. Dropping the diff is easy. I couldn't find a good set of directions on the 'net, so for further reference, I did these steps: 1. Put car on ramps. 2. Remove exhaust. (4 bolts at the cat side and 4 bolts holding the hangers on.) 3. Use a jack to support the diff. 4. remove sway bar brackets (leave it connected to the control arms) and rotate it up so you can reach the diff bolts.) 5. Undo the 3 diff bolts holding the diff to the subframe. 6. Use a funky torx socket to remove the 6 on each side axle bolts. They are torqued to 75 ft lbs, and aren't easy to get off. With the diff loose, I got to all 6 on both sides without rotating the axles. 7. Remove the 4 driveshaft nuts. Easy with a 16mm wrench and a rubber mallet, just bonk until they get free. Make sure car is in gear. You may need to put in some of the axle nuts to stop the diff from rotating. Also, make sure the jack is solidly supporting the diff at this point. Mark the two plates so you can get them back together in the same position. 8. Remove the speed sensor harness. 9. Carefully lower the diff. It's HEAVY. About 75 lbs I think... Enough to put a sizeable dent in your forehead. 10. Assembly is revese of the above. Not too hard. I had to futz a bit with the diff to get all the axle nuts back in. If they don't line up, jack up the wheel (CAREFULLY!) from the shock mount just until you can rotate it and get the axle in. You should only have to do this from one side. Put the axle bolts in after you've reconnected the driveshaft. Anyone have a finned Alpina diff cover for sale? But, of course now that the rear end is silent, I've got a clunk out of the front end. Sounds like sway bar endlinks. Let's see parts for the car I've replaced in the last month: -climate control -motor mounts -exhaust gaskets (mine were trashed at 100K, but I've had the exhaust off several times) -front and rear differential bolt Still need to do: -foglights -front sway bar endlinks -driver's side seat belt (fraying) -guibo, and associated tranny seals -subframe bushings for diff (front looked torn) -kit, who car is killing him...
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#7. Re: [E36M3] Re: Caliper rebuild - from Chester Wong
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Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2002 20:48:41 -0700 (PDT) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Caliper rebuild Yeah, but it comes with a big red caliper :) DOH! I think the consensus if you're sticking with the stock brakes is to use brake ducting or learn not to over brake :) Chester --- Gerry <gerry@parallel-mkt.com> wrote: > Ron, > Is there a better more heat resistant boot available for the E36///M3? > Gerry ===== __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com
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#8. Introduction and problem - from Mike McCune
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Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2002 22:49:36 -0500 From: "Mike McCune" <mikem@suds.org> Subject: Introduction and problem Hello everyone, I've been lurking on the list for a few days now and wanted to introduce myself. I purchased a 95 M3 with 90k on the clock about a month ago here in Austin, TX. It got inspected at a local independent (Terry Sayther) and checked out great. So far its been a great month getting acquainted with the car. It needs an inspection II soon but I've changed the oil and put new tires on it. Today I went to change out the gearbox oil since it hasn't been serviced in a while. I take out the drain plug and approx 1oz. of fluid drained out... that was it!! Not the expected 1.3 quarts. Needless to say I filled it up with Mobil1 Synth ATF and noticed an improvement in shifter feel! :-) Should I be worried about long term damage? I was actually pretty surprised how little difference it made in the gearbox performance with actual oil in there ... I would think it would be like night and day. I suppose there was enough in there that was clinging to the moving parts, but still ... Honestly the car didn't shift too bad before adding the fluid so perhaps I shouldn't be overly concerned, but still, its hard to just write it off and go about my merry way. I've owned plenty of stick shifts in my past to know that it didn't feel crunchy, notchy, sticky or rubbery before the change. The only thing I've noticed about the gearbox is a slight whine upon acceleration. Is this normal for an M3 or is it a sign of impending doom? Thoughts? Mike 95 M3 94 525iT
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#9. Re: [E36M3] Introduction and problem - from Chester Wong
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Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2002 21:09:18 -0700 (PDT) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Introduction and problem Hi and welcome to the list! > Today I went to change out the gearbox oil since it hasn't been serviced in > a while. I take out the drain plug and approx 1oz. of fluid drained out... > that was it!! Not the expected 1.3 quarts. Wow! That must have been an eye opener! There is a tendency for the drain plug to weep. How fast it weeps when the fluid is up to operating temp and the gears are spinning? I dunno. But I've lifted the car a few times and when I look at the plug, you see a drop of fluid :( I also know that on this past fluid interval, it was originally weeping and when I went to change the fluid, the plug was dry. When I opened it up and dumped the contents into a cut off gallon jug (I was thinking of saving it...heh heh), I would definitely venture to say that not as much came out as would have gone in. This is definitely alarming. What I've done in the past is to use some threadlock to provide a sort of seal. Haven't done it for a while, though. > The only thing I've noticed about the gearbox is a slight whine upon > acceleration. Is this normal for an M3 or is it a sign of impending doom? This whine is usually from the rear diff. If I were you, I'd check/change that as well. Lifetime fluids? Bahahahahahaha! Yeah, maybe for the lifetime of the free service :) Chester ===== __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com
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#10. blown gasket? - from RacerxJLing@aol.com
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Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2002 02:54:01 EDT From: RacerxJLing@aol.com Subject: blown gasket? Hey Guys- I have a 95 M3 w/ a RMS SC and 104xxx miles. Noticed valves "tapping" in the last few days. Tonight, oil was leaking and burning on the exhaust manifold. Car also began to heat up approx 3/4 up the water temp gauge. Car runs a little rough as well. Any thoughts/suggestions appreciated. BTW, who is a good source for 3.2L oem motors w/ 6 speed euro trannys$$ Jeff