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#1. Cooling System Components - from Miles Hayes
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Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2002 21:50:42 +0000 From: "Miles Hayes" <hayesmiles@msn.com> Subject: Cooling System Components Before my 1200 mile or so trek to O'fest from Tennessee in July I have decided to follow the advice from many on the list and do preventive maintenance to the cooling sytem on my 95M3 rather than risk having problems on the road. The car has 68000 miles with no sign of cooling problems. However, several of my friends with E-36's have had radiator failures around this mileage with no warning. What is the recommended brand of replacement radiator. Three are listed on the Eurowebparts.com site? Is Behr the best or is brand not necessarily important. Any other suggestions for part sources for parts? What is the correct temperature for the T-stat on a stock 95M3? 88 or 92 degrees? Should I replace both radiator hoses while doing the radiatior. Do I use BMW clamps for the hoses? I plan to also replace the T-stat housing with a metal one. What else should I replace or am I being overly cautios? Belts have been recently replaced. Any advice would be welcome. Thanks. Miles Hayes Old Hickory Chapter Clarksville, TN _________________________________________________________________ Join the world’s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. http://www.hotmail.com
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#2. Spitting Coolant and check you coolant return line - from Juan Bruce
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Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2002 15:01:21 -0700 From: "Juan Bruce" <jbrucebmw@hotmail.com> Subject: Spitting Coolant and check you coolant return line I had an interesting experience this weekend at Buttonwillow. I was exciting the bus stop when all the sudden the car snap oversteered and I spun. I had the presence of mind to put both feet in and was lucky enough to come to a rest with the car idling in the middle of the track clear of traffic. Returning to the pits the smell of coolant was obvious despite the temperature gauge being in its normal position in the middle. It turned out the coolant return line running across the top of the radiator had come un-clamped and started dumping coolant. It also took out a couple of fan blades. Talking to racers this is apparently a common problem prompting some to zip-tie the line to the radiator or re-rout it through holes cut into the shroud to prevent it from hitting the fan should it come loose. Richard Biscevic was kind enough to lend me the fan from his race car and with the help of a few others I was able to reattach the hose, top up and bleed the coolant system. It seemed fine again. However, on the trip back and ever since then it has been spitting coolant from the radiator cap. Enough that after several hundred miles it will trigger the low coolant light. I have noticed a tiny bit of coolant residue around the cap for tens of thousands of miles but never to this extent. I'm hoping this is not the dreaded head gasket problem. Anyone else have other ideas why it might be spitting coolant? Juan Bruce BMW CCA GGC '85 M635CSi '95 M3 _________________________________________________________________ Join the world’s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. http://www.hotmail.com
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#3. RE: [E36M3] Introduction and problem - from Mike McCune
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Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2002 19:47:03 -0500 From: "Mike McCune" <mikem@suds.org> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Introduction and problem > Wow! That must have been an eye opener! There is a tendency for the drain > plug to weep. Yeah, it was a bit shocking ... >> This whine is usually from the rear diff. If I were you, I'd check/change that >> as well. > Lifetime fluids? Bahahahahahaha! Yeah, maybe for the lifetime of the free > service :) Sounds like a project for this coming weekend. Good fluid recommendations anyone? Thanks for the info Chester, hopefully nothing long term will come of this. I might change out the gearbox oil again this coming weekend with a screen in the drain pan to see if there are metallic bits in there or not. Either way, not much I can do about it .. just wait for it to fail if its gonna. Mike 95 M3 94 525iT 97 Nissan 200sx se-r forsale (http://www.suds.org/ser)
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#4. Wheel Repair advice needed - from Michael Schaublin
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Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2002 22:12:31 -0400 From: "Michael Schaublin" <mike_schaublin@hotmail.com> Subject: Wheel Repair advice needed I've got two BBS RK 17x8's in need of repair due to pothole damage. I know this has recently been discussed, but I didn't need it then... Any recommendations for who to use or avoid would be appreciated. It appears to be a bend of the outer lip of the wheel, as far as I can tell the main body of the wheel is still round. FWIW, the pothole was on an onramp to I75 from I94 in Detroit. This ramp just reopened after having been rebuilt! Thanks, Mike Schaublin 94 325, limping on the left _________________________________________________________________ Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com
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#5. Re: [E36M3] Wheel Repair advice needed - from Joe Dyer
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Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2002 19:35:47 -0700 From: "Joe Dyer" <joedyer@attbi.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Wheel Repair advice needed File a claim with your state road agency. They will reluctantly pay for a new wheel. Joe ----- Original Message ----- From: "Michael Schaublin" <mike_schaublin@hotmail.com> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Monday, June 17, 2002 7:17 PM Subject: [E36M3] Wheel Repair advice needed | Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2002 22:12:31 -0400 | From: "Michael Schaublin" <mike_schaublin@hotmail.com> | Subject: Wheel Repair advice needed | | I've got two BBS RK 17x8's in need of repair due to pothole damage. I know | this has recently been discussed, but I didn't need it then... Any | recommendations for who to use or avoid would be appreciated. It appears to | be a bend of the outer lip of the wheel, as far as I can tell the main body | of the wheel is still round. FWIW, the pothole was on an onramp to I75 from | I94 in Detroit. This ramp just reopened after having been rebuilt! | | Thanks, | | Mike Schaublin | 94 325, limping on the left | | _________________________________________________________________ | Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com | | | | ************************************************************* | List Commands | UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. | DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. | GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). | | To issue a command/request to the server: | Send a message with the command you wish executed as the | subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. | ************************************************************* | |
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#6. Anyone with firsthand nitrous experience? - from Peter Guagenti
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Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2002 21:35:15 -0700 From: Peter Guagenti <peter@guagenti.com> Subject: Anyone with firsthand nitrous experience? I would never consider this for the M3, but with kits now available from reputable sources like BavAuto, I'm seriously thinking about it for the wife's 328i. I've done almost everything that could be done to it short of cams or a blower, so this would be an interesting option for when you just want that extra little kick. I know, I know, it's got a lot of drawbacks. What I'm looking for is some real, firsthand experience from folks who have done this to an electronically fuel-injected cars. Is 50hp out of a bottle worth $600? Any advice would be appreciated. -peterg (wouldn't mind some more power at select moments)
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#7. Tools for Caliper Rebuild & Bleeding - from M-Power
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Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2002 01:10:39 -0500 From: "M-Power" <M-Power@austin.rr.com> Subject: Tools for Caliper Rebuild & Bleeding Ok, I can find NO reference that lists all the tools needed to remove the brake lines front/rear and the size of the bleeder valves. I read you need an 11mm, 13mm and 14mm flare wrench, which is correct? I've read you need a 7mm/9mm brake bleeding wrench is this correct that you need a special wrench or will a standard wrench work? How do you attach a tire pump to the caliper to force the piston out. You need a tight seal and what is the size of the brake line connection, M10x1.0? All the write-ups just say what to do and don't list the tools. I spent 2 hours tonight going to Sears, Pep Boys, AutoZone and O'Riely's and didn't find any of the tools I listed above! I couldn't even find any clear tubing to use for bleeding the brakes! TIA, Jim Hagerman ///M_Power M-Power@austin.rr.com
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#8. Re: Brake pedal height - from Neil Maller
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Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2002 08:16:55 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Brake pedal height on 6/13/02 6:35 PM, Doug Wirth <DWirth@serena.com> wrote: > A month or so ago, someone on the list talked of their brake pedal being to > low to heal-toe. My 99 has the same issue. I brought it to the dealer to > have them adjust the height of the brake pedal under warranty. They said > that it was within speck to be that low. Has anyone had any luck getting > their pedal height fixed, or am I off to an independent to get this fixed. There is no adjustment for the E36 brake pedal height. If it's significantly out of spec and the system is correctly bled, then replacing the master cylinder (about $325 plus labour) would be necessary. Otherwise you're stuck with it. Neil 96 M3
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#9. Re: Exhaust Extras? - from Neil Maller
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Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2002 08:25:41 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Exhaust Extras? on 6/17/02 12:07 PM, "twisty M3" <twistym3@hotmail.com> wrote: > If one were to replace their exhaust, are there any items that should be > replaced while you're at it? Aside from the exhaust hangers anyway. Any > gaskets or bolts that are best not used again? You should get: Exhaust mounting kit P/N 18 21 9 059 408 This includes all the miscellaneous copper nuts, replacement bolts, gaskets, sealing rings etc. It does NOT include: Rear rubber hangers P/N 18 20 1 401 797 (2 required) Front rubber hangers P/N 18 30 1 703 634 (2 required) which you may also need. The kit is around $30, the rear hangers around $60 for the pair (!), and I forget how much for the fronts. Neil 96 M3
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#10. Re:Alignment results - from Ahmad Lutfeali
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Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2002 13:31:24 +0000 From: "Ahmad Lutfeali" <m3_racer99@hotmail.com> Subject: Re:Alignment results Steve, You are running toe out in the rear. If your car is stock, you may fly away with it. But if it has suspension mods, you are in for a treat (and not a good one). I was running toe out previously (in my 98/4 Stock) and tried to do the same in my 97/2 w/mods and the rear was all over the place (thanks to Bob Tunnell for helping me out with it). BMW specs our cars to be to toed in (rear). Some tuners like Dinan would set your car to be toed out in the rear to counter the understeer. However its not a proper solution (I will save the extensive R&D and my reasoning since it will get long). Drive it, track it, autox it and see how you like it. Alignment is a very touchy issue, to each its own. Goodluck and Happy //M-ing. A.L. _________________________________________________________________ Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com