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#1. Alignment settings - from HYPERM3@aol.com
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Date: Mon, 1 Jul 2002 14:06:20 EDT From: HYPERM3@aol.com Subject: Alignment settings I know this is a past request, but I just found my information of the before and after factory settings from when I took mine to the dealership. So if anyone still needs the factory alignment settings (camber, caster, toe) please feel free to email me. Alex "HyperM3" Demsky 97 S/C M3
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#2. Re: poor mans understeer solution - from Sprichardson@aol.com
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Date: Mon, 1 Jul 2002 14:06:12 EDT From: Sprichardson@aol.com Subject: Re: poor mans understeer solution
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#3. Squeaking TA Bushings - from Darling Christopher Maj AMC/CEXR
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Date: Mon, 1 Jul 2002 13:26:09 -0500 From: "Darling Christopher Maj AMC/CEXR" <Christopher.Darling@scott.af.mil> Subject: Squeaking TA Bushings My rear trailing arm bushings still squeak. Not quite as bad as a = freakin' stagecoach, but irritating nevertheless. I installed brand new = bushings about 3 months ago into my 95 M3, along with Ground Control = Spacers. I called Jay at Ground Control and inquired if I should = attempt to lubricate the spacers, with due caution owed to the rubber = parts of the bushing. He recommended silicone spray, although he said = mine was the first case he had heard about. I'm just lucky I guess. I know some of you guys had some squeaking issues as well a while = back--did they resolve themselves, or did you find a good solution? = What do you think of silicone spray? Cod Major Chris Darling HQ AMC/CEX DSN 779-0698, Comm (618) 229-0698
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#4. Re: Bad Wheel Bearing? - from Legerlotz, Alan
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Date: Mon, 1 Jul 2002 14:35:45 -0400 From: "Legerlotz, Alan" <alegerlotz@kronos.com> Subject: Re: Bad Wheel Bearing? >> After a hard day at the track yesterday, I'm now getting a >> grinding noise from the DS wheel. At almost full lock turning >> to the left, I'm hearing a grinding noise. >> >> I haven't jacked up the car to see if something is rubbing, >> but since it came on fairly abruptly, I'm wondering if it >> could be something not caused by contact. >> >> Any advice is appreciated. If it is a bad wheel bearing, its not all that bad yet. I had one go at Mont Tremblant and the car went from feeling fine in the morning to feeling like it was on square wheels by the afternoon. It almost felt like a warped rotor, but the variable that would cause the symptom had to do with the attitude of the steering wheel, not the brakes. In hard left turns the shimmy would go away completely because I would unload the front left wheel. Going straight it was bad and turning right at all it was horrible. A fellow club racer had a spare one so 20 minutes later I was good to go for my next session. The hubs are easy to change, so if you have more than 60K miles on the car you might want to go ahead and change them anyway. Personally, I think that its brake related. -Al 1996 328is (same hubs/wheel bearings as the M3) #328 JP
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#5. a/c recharge? - from kitwetzler@mindspring.com
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Date: Mon, 1 Jul 2002 14:44:59 -0400 From: "kitwetzler@mindspring.com" <kitwetzler@mindspring.com> Subject: a/c recharge? Can anyone recommend a decent shop in the south SF bay area, to do a recharge on my A/C? It's not blowing cold. :( -kit, baking in the sun -------------------------------------------------------------------- mail2web - Check your email from the web at http://mail2web.com/ .
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#6. RE: Poor-mans Understeer Correction - from Mike Frank
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Date: Mon, 01 Jul 2002 13:49:24 -0500 From: Mike Frank <mfrank28@comcast.net> Subject: RE: Poor-mans Understeer Correction Mark, What you really want is more negative camber in the front, especially if you're going to the track. Try some shims on the lower strut mounting bolts. Very cheap and very effective. You don't need to add a lot of negative camber to reduce the understeer. Same size tires will help too. HTH, Mike Frank 97 M3 > -------------------- 4 -------------------- > Date: Mon, 1 Jul 2002 09:37:32 -0700 > From: "Mark Kern" <markkern@cox.net> > Subject: Poor-mans Understeer Correction > > A friend mentioned to me that the staggered setup on my 99 M3 > is part of why it has an understeer tendency, and that one > way to correct this is to run the same size tire on all four wheels. > > While I get decent results just by increasing the pressure of > my front tires, I was wondering if anyone else has run with > the "same size" tire setup with good results. If so, what size tire? > > Thanks, > > Mark > 99 Cosmos Black M3
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#7. CAI induced whistle - from Josh
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Date: Mon, 01 Jul 2002 13:09:18 -0600 From: Josh <eurosprt@xmission.com> Subject: CAI induced whistle At 12:47 PM 7/1/2002 -0500, you wrote: >-------------------- 6 -------------------- >Date: Mon, 1 Jul 2002 12:56:22 -0400 >From: "Michael Kelley" <mkelley@nc.rr.com> >Subject: CAI induced whistle > >I've posted about this before and got no response, thought I would try >again. Car is a 98M3, Sharked w/JC CAI, SS exhaust....symptom is a whistle >from the engine compartment at >(and only at) 2K RPM under moderate acelleration. I've tried several >aftermarket intakes, with and without heat shields, they all exhibit the >same whistle so it's not an air passage problem caused by the shield. >Reinstalling the stock airbox eliminates the problem. Tried a "fogged" >airbox, no whistle. I've searched the TIS and have come up with the >following: SI 110598000, Crankcase Ventilation System Check says: "A >malfunctioning crankcase vantilation valve may cause the following >complaints: >- engine runs rough >- whistling noise from the crankcase ventilation valve Though this bulletin refers to the 4cyl - 12cyl engines, it is my understanding that the whistle problem was mainly seen in the V8 powered BMWs. >Coincidentally, I also have a slight surging @ 2-3K RPM that the dealer has >been unable to fix, have tried new fuel pressure regulator, throttle >position sensor, latest DME program, etc., so I just drive a little harder >and don't notice it any more :-) >If I remove the oil filler cap at idle, the engine begins rough idle >(normal) and the crancase pulls air into the filller hole so it also has >negative pressure. The SI mentiones using a special tool (a slack tube >Manometer) to measure the crankcase negative pressure and to check the CV >valve but I would rather avoid a trip to the dealer if possible. >Anyone have any experience with a whistle like this or a bad CV valve? Any >guesses why the CAI would allow the whistle but the stock box won't? Any >suggestions/wild ass guesses >I could try? >Thanks, Mike >98M3C > This whistling is in every BMW and or combustion engine produced. The whistle that you hear is caused by the high velocity air sweeping over the throttle-plate as it is opened. With the right throttle angle you can generate this whistle. This is one of the reasons that a BMW air filter box is listed in the ETK as "Intake Muffler SUCTION silencer". Key words "SUCTION SILENCER". There is no remedy for this except for the installation of the stock airbox or maybe the upcoming electronically controlled engine valve train that allows BMW to get rid of the throttle plate(s) all together. Aftermarket intakes don't induces a whistle, they simply reveal the sounds that have always existed in your induction system. Regards,
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#8. rear brake rattle - from Zack Steinkamp
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Date: Mon, 1 Jul 2002 12:29:36 -0700 (PDT) From: Zack Steinkamp <edsarkiss@yahoo.com> Subject: rear brake rattle kind listers, i began noticing a rattle coming from the rear of the car a couple of months ago. on small bumps, it sounded similar to if you had two big washers on a big bolt and gave the assembly a good shake. took the car to A&E Performance in Cupertino, CA for its Inspection II 2 weeks ago, and asked them to check out the rattle. their diagnosis was "loose inboard brake pad". sure enough, if i go over the same rattle-inducing bumps now, but with the brakes applied slightly, the noise is gone. so my question -- is there something broken in there? or does the car just need some brake goo on the back of the rear pads? the prev. owner tracked the car, so he never used the goo since he would change the pads between street & track quite often. the rattle seems to be getting worse -- i'm guessing as the pads wear, there's more room to wiggle. thx! zs
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#9. Re: [E36M3] rear brake rattle - from alex.fadeev@verizon.com
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Date: Mon, 1 Jul 2002 15:01:18 -0500 From: alex.fadeev@verizon.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] rear brake rattle Zack Steinkamp <edsarkiss@yahoo.com> wrote: > > i began noticing a rattle coming from the rear of the > car a couple of months ago. on small bumps, it > sounded similar to if you had two big washers on a big > bolt and gave the assembly a good shake. [...] > their diagnosis was "loose inboard brake pad". > > sure enough, if i go over the same rattle-inducing > bumps now, but with the brakes applied slightly, the > noise is gone. > > so my question -- is there something broken in there? Zack, The inboard pad is held in place by a three-prong clip extending into the caliper piston. Have you replaced your pads lately? Any chance the replacement pads were aftermarket without such clips? If not, one of those three clips may have broken off or got bent out of shape allowing the pad to rattle. Also check that your outboard pad is held in place by the clip. > or does the car just need some brake goo on the back > of the rear pads? I hate the goo. It burns off and makes pad swapping unnecessarily messy. > the prev. owner tracked the car, so he never used the > goo since he would change the pads between street & > track quite often. Good man. > the rattle seems to be getting worse -- i'm guessing > as the pads wear, there's more room to wiggle. Nope, the caliper will extend more to compensate for the wear. alex f
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#10. Re: [E36M3] rear brake rattle - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Mon, 01 Jul 2002 13:05:08 -0700 From: Jim Bassett <jimbassett@attbi.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] rear brake rattle At 12:37 PM 7/1/02, Zack Steinkamp wrote: >their diagnosis was "loose inboard brake pad". > >sure enough, if i go over the same rattle-inducing >bumps now, but with the brakes applied slightly, the >noise is gone. > >so my question -- is there something broken in there? Sounds like the rattle clips are broken. Each inboard pad had (usually) 3 clips that clip into the caliper piston, holding the pad in place. You could put new pads in, or put some anti-squeal compound at the piston/pad interface and see if that helps. Jim Bassett